Suspension and brake bolt questions

[Joobie610]

So lads, having a hard time deciding on which path to go down when it comes to fasteners for the 180. Need to buy some bolts for the brakes and suspension and I'm not keen on getting painted gear that will rust and look crap in no time.

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/ziptiems-6375-620x350.jpg

So far my options are:

1. Baller Bolts replacements out of the States (I'm in Australia and the dollar is shit at the moment) for $430aud plus shipping/tax. I believe these are zinc plated grade 12.9 bolts with nuts and washers to suit.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-43325750735147_2182_85233182

2. Local supplier for Stainless steel 316 grade cap screws (in-hex/socket head)/nuts/washers and a GKTech eccentric lockout kit for the machined washers. Roughly $300aud plus shipping/tax.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-43325750735147_2182_4523253

http://www.gktech.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/1/s132-bolt.jpg

3. Same as option 2, but using a lower grade Zinc plated cap screw. Roughly $250aud plus shipping/tax.

4. Titanium bolts from a Chinese supplier. Roughly my left testicle plus shipping/tax. Probably not a realistic option, but possible if I decide to wait another month and save.


Honestly, I prefer option 2. Cheaper, prettier, less chance of stripping the head. Downside is the risk of nuts binding on the thread if they are used multiple times.

The issue I'm having is whether or not the bolt is able to sustain the continual shock loading of the suspension parts. The grade actually refers to tensile strength (i.e. how high you can torque the bolt) and might have a detrimental effect on the shear strength (how much lateral tension can be applied).

So my suspension questions are:

Has anyone ever replaced the bolts with SS gear and if so, did it last, and under what conditions (track/street)?
Is there another option that doesn't involve Titanium replacement?
Has anyone ever had an issue running the Baller Bolts gear?

I'm also looking at new bolts for my brakes (r32 GTR split calliper all corners), and I'm not sure if I want to use Stainless, Titanium or Zinc Plated Steel. At most, I'd be looking at $300aud delivered for Titanium out of China so everything is an option.

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ziptiems-53.jpg

Brake question:

Does anyone know if heat will have an extremely detrimental effect on any of these materials holding the callipers together and/or the calliper to the knuckle?

[jedi03]

Imo do not use stainless...it usually stretches unless it's a high rated bolt...your bolts don't look to bad to me, maybe a wire wheel on them should clean them up as long as they are not rounded. The titanium sounds amazing, I do not have much experience with that but hear it's nice...

[Wabash9000]

When I built my rearend I put the baller bolts in. Probably overkill, but they were really nice to work with. I really liked the 12 pt heads. No fear of stripping those out because they fit the socket so perfectly. Why do you have that priced so high? A google conversion of the price puts it at $180 AUD + shipping for the rear kit. Are you planning on replacing every bolt on the car?

I wouldn't use cap head screws. Even big ones are amazingly easy to strip out.

[Joobie610]

Thanks for the input :-)

Imo do not use stainless...it usually stretches unless it's a high rated bolt...your bolts don't look to bad to me, maybe a wire wheel on them should clean them up as long as they are not rounded. The titanium sounds amazing, I do not have much experience with that but hear it's nice...

I did put a wire wheel to them, but the threads are stretched from being torqued so many times.

When I built my rearend I put the baller bolts in. Probably overkill, but they were really nice to work with. I really liked the 12 pt heads. No fear of stripping those out because they fit the socket so perfectly. Why do you have that priced so high? A google conversion of the price puts it at $180 AUD + shipping for the rear kit. Are you planning on replacing every bolt on the car?

I wouldn't use cap head screws. Even big ones are amazingly easy to strip out.

Every suspension bolt would get replaced yeah, along with others for major component mounts. Currently it's a mix and match of whatever fit and none of the bolt grades or threads are consistent anywhere on the car.

I was thinking cap head because I use them at work (I'm a Diesel Fitter) on hydraulic excavators for all high pressure lines (M20 x 150 12.9 grade) and I've never stripped one even with huge pipes on the Allen keys. Generally you snap the key first.


I think I might go for the ballerbolts option. At least everyone seems to use them without issue. Cheers!

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[Melonburst]

Do not under any circumstance order from Baller Bolts, you will not receive the items or your money back unless you file a charge back. The business hasn't existed for a few years. The last time they sent out any items was back when Dai Yoshihara was the reigning FD champion. I was lucky enough to get one of the last few sets and the quality was superb but since then when I have ordered for other projects, I've never received anything. Check it out for yourself and look up recent reviews.

[Wabash9000]

Do not under any circumstance order from Baller Bolts, you will not receive the items or your money back unless you file a charge back. The business hasn't existed for a few years. The last time they sent out any items was back when Dai Yoshihara was the reigning FD champion. I was lucky enough to get one of the last few sets and the quality was superb but since then when I have ordered for other projects, I never received anything. Check it out for yourself and look up recent reviews.

That's sad I wonder what happened to them. I really liked the bolts that I got from them and I felt like I had pretty good service. I ordered in August 2010, and they shipped them out in 3 days and I got them 4 days later.

[Wabash9000]

I was thinking cap head because I use them at work (I'm a Diesel Fitter) on hydraulic excavators for all high pressure lines (M20 x 150 12.9 grade) and I've never stripped one even with huge pipes on the Allen keys. Generally you snap the key first.

I don't know what type of connections you have at your work, but I would ask around and see if you can order the bolts you need through your suppliers. No reason to pay a markup on them if you have a direct contact with a bold manufacture. I'm able to buy electronic components through my work at substantial discounts for personal projects, maybe you could do the same with bolts.

[Melonburst]

If you want similar quality metric threaded bolts check out specialty bike shops. I've seen a few that sold flashy Ti bolts and such that were reasonably priced.

We got every S-chassis bolt that Baller Bolts sold, even bellhousing bolts, titanium suspension front and rear, steering wheel bolts and they were amazing. Its unfortunate that they aren't around anymore and I've tried to find out who they sourced them from since they were not made in house and were more of a wholesaler.

[Joobie610]

Do not under any circumstance order from Baller Bolts, you will not receive the items or your money back unless you file a charge back. The business hasn't existed for a few years. The last time they sent out any items was back when Dai Yoshihara was the reigning FD champion. I was lucky enough to get one of the last few sets and the quality was superb but since then when I have ordered for other projects, I've never received anything. Check it out for yourself and look up recent reviews.

Glad I was told that before I ordered. Thanks for the headsup!

I don't know what type of connections you have at your work, but I would ask around and see if you can order the bolts you need through your suppliers. No reason to pay a markup on them if you have a direct contact with a bold manufacture. I'm able to buy electronic components through my work at substantial discounts for personal projects, maybe you could do the same with bolts.

Yeah, but not all bolts are made equal. Have been talking to one of the guys I work with, he said that all of the bolts he used on his project chevelle were factory steel bolts and he got them anodised. Might have to get a price off Nissan.

If you want similar quality metric threaded bolts check out specialty bike shops. I've seen a few that sold flashy Ti bolts and such that were reasonably priced.

We got every S-chassis bolt that Baller Bolts sold, even bellhousing bolts, titanium suspension front and rear, steering wheel bolts and they were amazing. Its unfortunate that they aren't around anymore and I've tried to find out who they sourced them from since they were not made in house and were more of a wholesaler.

Bummer. I really need all of the specs to do that myself. Might try and find a service manual in English that has them listed before I do anything else.

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