Ticking sound on SR20DET

[Edyz7s]

What ups guys, so i posted a thread on this before with a similar clip, only now idk if has gotten worse or not. Today i just changed the oil to royal purple from mobil 1 and also added oil stabilizer from Lucas. Okay so I added 3 qts of royal purple 10w-30 and .75 of the stabilizer making it 3.75. Heard it was from 3.5-4 qts of oil for the OEM oil pan, so I just do half of that.
So I just want to know what you guys think of the ticking sound, i was told it was the lifters, so I got the stabilizer for it.
And wondering if it was okay to do what i did, replace .75 of the oil with the stabilizer.
Recent clip: https://sendvid.com/pljj2825
Older clip: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=ct75g%3E&s=8#.VgMGZM5hx1M

[TheRealSy90]

Get rid of the purple shit, go back to Mobil1 15w50 or Rotella T6. Oem oil pan is 4 quarts, so run 4 quarts.

[Bleakley]

F*** that oil stabilizer stuff. I met this guy at work who said it stopped the ticking in his truck - that's the only real case I've ever heard of it actually working. Run straight oil like everybody else man...

Nissan recommended oil for S13's and S14's (per FSM) is 10w-30. Most run 10w-40 (including myself). I personally run and recommend 10w-30 for the cold days, 10w-40 for the mild, medium, and hot days.

2LiterTurbo and many others sware by Royal Purple, I say keep on running it. Royal Purple has certainly proven themselves. I love Mobil 1 as well.

[Dboyizmlg]

Ticking noise maybe be from lifters.
They may need bleeding, or replacement.

[Edyz7s]

Get rid of the purple shit, go back to Mobil1 15w50 or Rotella T6. Oem oil pan is 4 quarts, so run 4 quarts.

15w-50? Dam idk the sr could take thick as oil. Whats the pros/cons on that than just average 10w-30/40? Put the extra .25 of oil just to make sure

[Edyz7s]

F*** that oil stabilizer stuff. I met this guy at work who said it stopped the ticking in his truck - that's the only real case I've ever heard of it actually working. Run straight oil like everybody else man...

Nissan recommended oil for S13's and S14's (per FSM) is 10w-30. Most run 10w-40 (including myself). I personally run and recommend 10w-30 for the cold days, 10w-40 for the mild, medium, and hot days.

2LiterTurbo and many others sware by Royal Purple, I say keep on running it. Royal Purple has certainly proven themselves. I love Mobil 1 as well.

Its kinda to late now to take off the stabilizer, don't have enough to get new oil again lol. Ill go straight oil next oil change, and hopefully my lifters get lubed up with the stabilizer now that its there

[240boosted]

Get rid of the purple shit, go back to Mobil1 15w50 or Rotella T6. Oem oil pan is 4 quarts, so run 4 quarts.


I love rotella x2

[Grenade180sx]

I run only 15-50 of course I'm in Socal where it doesn't get cold, but for track days it works great, I've seen 10-30(40) turn into water just on some spirited drives in the canyons on friends cars and that's with an inline oil cooler.

If it's a track car or sees track stuff is say 15-50 definately

[Croustibat]

I run only 15-50 of course I'm in Socal where it doesn't get cold, but for track days it works great, I've seen 10-30(40) turn into water just on some spirited drives in the canyons on friends cars and that's with an inline oil cooler.

If it's a track car or sees track stuff is say 15-50 definately

That could happen like 50 years ago, or with very crappy oil, not with any modern 10w40 full synth with a GWO engine. Of course if the engine overfuels like crazy and rings are worn, any oil will turn to water... but that is not caused by poor oil quality.

oil viscosity choice is dictated by the pressure you get when the engine is hot; there is a valid window, telling you what you need, and it is in the FSM. Basic rule: get the thinnest you can get away with, esp. with the cold grade. I found out some lifters dont like 5W, but 10W is way enough and 15W is too much, engines are regulated by pressure meaning thicker oil = less flow. Have you seen 15W oil under 20°C ? Unless your car is in dubai 15W oil is going to hurt your engine more than anything.

As far as my car is concerned, it is tracked, and i run 10w40 without oil cooler... but i have a working oil pump and a vented hood. The new oil pump allowed be to use 10w40 instead of 15W60 to stay in the pressure window. The vented hood took care of the heat problem.

@op oil stabiliser and most additives are utter garbage used to hide a dying engine. What they mostly do is thicken the oil so you get less leaks and less noises. Remove that crap and use oil designed by people who know their job...

And frankly if you can't pay for an oil change, sell this car, these are money pits. Clearly you didn't know when buying it, or thought it would not apply to you, but fact is, if you don't have money for 4L of oil, you shouldn't try to run one of these.