My "hanging by a thread" SR swapped S14 Kouki thread (TONS of pics&questions)

[SilviaHI]

Hi all! I just picked up this ghetto 95 for what was a decent price but it turned out to be perhaps a little bit more of a project than I expected :keke::facepalm:

The car was running crappy but I wasn't expecting that after a hour of driving around the turbo line that was loosely fitted blew off, lost all my oil and my oil pressure light turned on before I shut it down. I hope the motor is not blown but in the coming days I'll find out.

So anyways, I wanted to share the funny ghetto mods on this car but also had a bunch of random questions. I am open to feedback and feel free to laugh :keke: I'm still pretty amateur so go easy on me please :drama:

Here she is!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FQRWiDOvkAI/VedB4J-dR7I/AAAAAAAAAJI/FbkdPE6qiPE/s912-Ic42/IMG_0757.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WDhH8jYXuKI/VedB5p9tehI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/0ye_U3vgSgw/s912-Ic42/IMG_0756.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TAU1aTugbfA/Vec0AdjffAI/AAAAAAAAAA4/gfGnRJgQkNc/s912-Ic42/IMG_0667.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e4hiBrFwEMM/VedB8GeYR3I/AAAAAAAAAJg/SWtcHTwGm-g/s912-Ic42/IMG_0744.JPG

Riverside 18x8 w/advans in front and Pilot Sports in back. Two Sentra things and just picked up s2 $50 Goodyear F1's to burn too :coolugh:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9PCMBkV9g2s/VedCIsoJsoI/AAAAAAAAAJw/W6PZ6w4VRKA/s912-Ic42/IMG_0804.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tNhvIQn1B58/VedGxiRydVI/AAAAAAAAAKs/COLhbvGty4w/s912-Ic42/IMG_0811.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RHcnKekqC2U/VedGzYzFT5I/AAAAAAAAAK0/yMdNgpGVdu8/s640-Ic42/IMG_0812.JPG

Teins
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BIdgDp9LSP0/VedCLLmZeyI/AAAAAAAAAKA/RedtFejq2Wc/s912-Ic42/IMG_0806.JPG

I should be happy it doesn't leak yea?..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ltitGMMwEW8/VedCJ-5Z0KI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/wh04XYh6zfo/s912-Ic42/IMG_0805.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tG9wjpHpfyk/Vec0CAGL5MI/AAAAAAAAABA/eehRRG7nKac/s912-Ic42/IMG_0669.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0OJjvXFxpbA/Vec0DTn0dfI/AAAAAAAAABI/Y9UMgmk5P7M/s912-Ic42/IMG_0670.JPG

Looks like the housing chrome is melting or something?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mlPdnE7-OZs/Vec0F2heTgI/AAAAAAAAABY/GqIDAy5-jyU/s912-Ic42/IMG_0673.JPG

cloths hanger technology
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-76FojhFbcPk/Vec0HU2LJZI/AAAAAAAAABg/rf9uTaX1ee8/s912-Ic42/IMG_0674.JPG

what are these for?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dw-MQxStZjE/Vec0Rmb5ZAI/AAAAAAAAACo/aE1wVeMmlPI/s912-Ic42/IMG_0695.JPG

Um.. steel and water makes rust..:ugh::tweak:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gM2ueXemLSk/Vec0T569vpI/AAAAAAAAAC4/wWp-AGfuMuw/s912-Ic42/IMG_0703.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d9serJsgOAo/Vec0815-QlI/AAAAAAAAAHU/5e7RvET2qWg/s912-Ic42/IMG_0712.JPG

Whats this disconnected plug on the firewall?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ccS1hbv0g_Y/Vec0VPUGUhI/AAAAAAAAADA/5hbDysI-CJk/s912-Ic42/IMG_0704.JPG

whats this plug?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jo6KFg_nLTE/Vec0Wb9WjyI/AAAAAAAAADI/_G_FP5kI_AE/s912-Ic42/IMG_0705.JPG

this one line has three T connectors! :facepalm::keke:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KKU3oTcMrQA/Vec0ZH19rVI/AAAAAAAAADY/vWX7qrs1sEg/s720-Ic42/IMG_0713.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1PQ3x_l8zXU/Vec0chE5O7I/AAAAAAAAADw/7ZbA0eraiJo/s912-Ic42/IMG_0716.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dJAg36LQrQo/Vec0JiXqLNI/AAAAAAAAABw/gXHSXQUul4U/s720-Ic42/IMG_0676.JPG

Oil residue from previous blown turbo. Yeah.. no need to clean..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nPmXH-UOcPc/Vec0Inv8PCI/AAAAAAAAABo/D1_Mf4WaxMM/s912-Ic42/IMG_0675.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cJbJdiOrYmc/Vec0d1SrUSI/AAAAAAAAAD4/pN5TKU1yAOY/s720-Ic42/IMG_0723.JPG

What model is this?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Re6AIOK3Mxs/Vec0p-R9EtI/AAAAAAAAAFM/4WubrJWek34/s912-Ic42/IMG_0687.JPG

this might not be most efficient..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hpDVCg8plz8/Vec0qy4kGBI/AAAAAAAAAFU/QOmWxKV69qI/s912-Ic42/IMG_0688.JPG

is it okay to be exposed like this? Inside looked okay though lol/B]
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xDohSIbSlzY/Vec06q5E5AI/AAAAAAAAAHE/S1qtopFJId0/s912-Ic42/IMG_0710.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mgyn5v0jLjw/Vec07_PgLSI/AAAAAAAAAHM/oZjVgJfotfU/s912-Ic42/IMG_0711.JPG

[B]Wait for it..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ReooOiIKvrU/Vec0_81-M4I/AAAAAAAAAHk/SUsksvT4Coo/s720-Ic42/IMG_0718.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BTXEwnm_VP8/Vec1Dej5ZDI/AAAAAAAAAHs/WSEUxKTW_Ao/s720-Ic42/IMG_0719.JPG

Maxed out on pics, more coming after thread is approved..

[SilviaHI]

3" HKS all the way back my ass :tardrim:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1JzN-hBqGKU/Vec1I-1g9jI/AAAAAAAAAH8/pFGkiz47JvE/s720-Ic42/IMG_0721.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E_yDUylxMWU/VedGv28bUWI/AAAAAAAAAKk/ZNAxrRSo3O4/s640-Ic42/IMG_0810.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QkE6QB__wFM/Vec1KRhbTtI/AAAAAAAAAIE/l1Zx3Qftvew/s912-Ic42/IMG_0722.JPG

filter is suspended in air by fuel lines :keke::coolugh:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2fssoCt-bVU/Vec1P9GNolI/AAAAAAAAAIs/1SnxMWWTlqM/s720-Ic42/IMG_0731.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OI4AjG4XnV0/Vec1Nmb28zI/AAAAAAAAAIc/pWTypWlbTM4/s912-Ic42/IMG_0729.JPG

Whoa... Do we guys run electric water pumps?..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NbiLx6ZLO3E/Vec1OwICEJI/AAAAAAAAAIk/HGP6DD2889E/s720-Ic42/IMG_0730.JPG

Whats this?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cDHuWsI1Vlg/Vec00MZwq1I/AAAAAAAAAGU/hHJ8KbWNGDs/s720-Ic42/IMG_0700.JPG

Switches to electric water pump and boost controller.. Because racer :2f2f::tardrim: NISMO of China :2f2f: Red switch is for "reverse light for safety inspection" LOL
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SLjFu7xdims/Vec0lW_IYsI/AAAAAAAAAEs/eXUOPRnHZRA/s720-Ic42/IMG_0679.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GRR9eqnpqKI/Vec0mvmVhUI/AAAAAAAAAE0/N56NRF23810/s912-Ic42/IMG_0680.JPG

Custom baller ROCKFORD FOSGATE headliner.. But wait..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mqnTnPS4hqk/Vec0nQAnjvI/AAAAAAAAAE8/5Edg9YM528M/s912-Ic42/IMG_0681.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z5_djj1xybI/VedCGcJv8DI/AAAAAAAAAJo/NGtea7HCoF4/s912-Ic42/IMG_0803.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s_E4fa3edu0/Vec0OJG_WaI/AAAAAAAAACQ/ZsRpoxNgjOA/s912-Ic42/IMG_0686.JPG

Turbo line blew but luckily it was a easy job to remove everything due to the fact that half the nuts on the exhaust manifold were missing and every other bolt was a solid 5 inch pound finger torqued :drama:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-18sXI6p_0CI/Vec1LRJgbeI/AAAAAAAAAIM/mmD_DjWZkMc/s912-Ic42/IMG_0727.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-reyGnbdf78c/Vec1MofJp_I/AAAAAAAAAIU/0N96RwaIXAc/s912-Ic42/IMG_0728.JPG

Is it okay for water lines to be open like that?? I was literally able to move the oil lines with my fingers lol. The feed line was disconnected when I took it apart.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZE18YGjlHyc/Vec0u0zOd4I/AAAAAAAAAFs/n6TexyYo1Zw/s912-Ic42/IMG_0691.JPG

Is this thing okay??
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IGAtjlPwZ1I/VedG1VTgOPI/AAAAAAAAALE/dlWILN0K3PM/s640-Ic42/IMG_0814.JPG

Nice oil line, luckily the turbo doesn't sound horrible but I have no idea if its still good :drama:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2DTsdOEyK3o/VedG3rvTbnI/AAAAAAAAALU/bny-OCNfEVc/s640-Ic42/IMG_0816.JPG


Parts starting to come in! :2f2f::drama:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hpjMIkrvH-U/VedCO5WatNI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/ZELvIQXErPE/s640-Ic42/IMG_0808.JPG

Thank you to FRSPORT
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Tqc9pj5nvPI/VedCPwVHY1I/AAAAAAAAAKY/EC3E2jD8OXU/s912-Ic42/IMG_0809.JPG

Repainted intercooler pipes and cleaned it all out
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FBQ_cMoo3js/VedG0dIqGoI/AAAAAAAAAK8/oYN5HC9IblQ/s640-Ic42/IMG_0813.JPG

Can someone tell me what those signal lights on the front bumper are called? I can't find them :facepalm:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dUr1N2BREPo/VedG2nYIMtI/AAAAAAAAALM/mplahr_bFtM/s640-Ic42/IMG_0815.JPG

So if you guys didn't read the above text, basically, the feed line to the turbo blew off after a hour of driving and my oil ran out till the oil light came on. I'm crossing my fingers I don't have to take on my first engine rebuild. :2f2f: I'll keep telling myself, I GOT IT FOR THE PLATFORM! THE PLATFORM body is straight! :picardfp: But anyways, I'm loving the car and am looking forward to practice drifting and having fun at the local autocross. :2f2f::)

[zombiewolf513]

Sweet bro, get yourself some good gauges!

[Mitsubayati]

I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.

[SilviaHI]

Sweet bro, get yourself some good gauges!

Thanks man! Innovate wideband on the way. Im keeping an eye out for good deals on gauges.

I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.

I'm hoping I won't have to pull the motor but man, it looks suuuuper easy to take out. Especially since half the bolts are already missing :keke:

[foepneon]

freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.http://bit.ly/1UoG7fq

[SilviaHI]

Okay so doin the work with the motor pulled is recommended, and I might just go for it but anyone have feed back on any of the above questions?

[Dirk Jan]

Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.

[Crazyced]

Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.

[ka-titties]

oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.

[SilviaHI]

Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.

Rajah! Thanks! :trogdor:

Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.

Just checked and it does not, thanks for the tip though! PROPS MY DAWG :rawk:

oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.

For your guys continued viewing pleasure.. or not LOL :picardfp::picardfp::picardfp:

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[jr_ss]

WOW, that's pretty much the only thing I can say. Please tell that hack artist is a member here...

[Mitsubayati]

1. Pull the engine and transmission.
2. Clean the engine and transmission.
3. Clean the engine bay.
4. Put the shiny parts on.
5. Plop her back into her new clean home.


Also, I'd recommend getting a new harness from Wiring Specialties.

[Kingtal0n]

imo You are going to spend more fixing it back up than just buying a next 240sx with all the proper swapped parts and clean/good engine. You have almost nothing there to work with, everything looks to be abused unfortunately.

If you are adamant on proceeding, the proper thing to do at this point is, at the very least,

pull the engine, pressure wash the engine bay with degreaser. Throw away the old fuel lines and anything rubber you can manage to replace. I recommend going one step further and removing everything from the bay including all plastics panels bolts and wires, so that you can re-paint it proper. But that is time consuming if you do not have a shop to work with and a paint booth and gun etc...


if you think the engine is still good, you need to pressure wash it as well. remove anything you can manage and paint all exposed metal surfaces with suitable paint after a degreasing/washing.

take the trans off and perform all FSM inspections. Replace flywheel if necessary. Certainly replace clutch/pplate/tobearing and the rear main seal. Check trans end play and transmission front seal for leaks.

Ditch the cheap manifold and get a stock manifold. buy oem locking tabs and a new OEM gasket. Use a new turbocharger, do not mess with used junk, especially when you see oil frothing from the bypass like that. It will cost you days of labor and all those new gaskets to find out your old turbo is shot.

Inspect the oil for metal. Remove the lower pan and inspect the oil pickup. Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Find where the wiring was done, and inspect how it was done. If the harness appears to be OEM then it was probably done by the ECU and it is probably a huge mess judging by the rest of the car, and that will give you electrical problems down the road.

Re-cut the intercooler hole at the battery tray to be circular (or at least NEAT) and protect it with rubber and paint.

For the battery, use an OEM lower engine harness (you can use one from a KA that matches the year of the 240sx if you need to) and get rid of any/all electrical tape connections. Use an OEM ground wire (if it needs to be said). You dont want patched up wiring anywhere on any car, especially with electrical tape.


Buy an aluminum sr20det radiator and some high quality sr specific hoses. Get a clutch fan/OEM shroud on the engine for best results and least maintenance. Dont forget the electric helper fan under the OEM shroud which turns on when you flip the A/C. You need a new dryer for A/C also once the system is open.

The hot-pipe IMO, needs to be re-made from 2.5" high quality U-bent material, custom cut/fit/welded is ideal, with a proper push type bypass on the hot side of course, recirculated by into the pre-turbo inlet just like factory.

If the turbo is spewing oil then the intercooler is probably full of oil residue as well. You need to get all oil out of there, and if the core is cheap chinese style, i would throw it away and get a next one. The pipes you can simply degrease carefully.

Oil for the trans is redline MT-90, dont use anything off the shelf.

those OEM front brakes need to go if you actually get the car rolling.

the rust in the radiator/engine is due to someone using tap water. You need to perform several flushes, using distilled water and your choice of radiator flush. Then drive the car for 100-5000 miles and do more flushing. Always use distilled water and mix in coolant if you need it (if your outside temperature drops to freezing you need to figure out how much coolant you will need).

Use the oem water pump....

the maf should not be exposed. I cant believe that it actually works to tell the truth. I feel like you would be better off just buying a whole new motor swap based on what I see.

you need a real downpipe (high quality) with the crossmember->downpipe bracket (IS ESSENTIAL) or you will be chasing exhaust leaks forever. For-ever.

The IACV tube (clear plastic section in the picture) looks to be coated in oil, further implicating that your turbo is bad and should not be used. It also reinforces the notion that your intercooler core is full of oil residue and should be replaced. And not to scare you, but the oil is probably frothing around inside the engine now, creating thick sludge and partially burnt hydrocarbon residues that adhere to all manner of surfaces, raising compression ratio and causing detonation and hot-spots within the engine. You need to pull the intake manifold and have a look at the runners and as much of the head and valves as you can see, and clean them if you actually intend to run the engine. The same goes for the exhaust side, look at your exhaust valves and decide if the head is going to get you the mileage you want from it. Once they get this old, there is no question the head needs new guides and springs, as you run the risk of dropping a valve.


make sure you are prepared to install: air filter bracket, ECU bracket, downpipe bracket, igniter bracket, intake manifold bracket (three bolts hold a large heavy black bracket), OEM ground wires, OEM power wires





basically you are looking a not only a complete swap, but a re-swap and re-configuration of all components. Nothing on that car looks to be done right. You can check my thread for a little checklist (first post) of all the stuff I Keep in mind.

Here is a rough breakdown of what I see you spending (budget)
lines, turbo, manifold, gaskets, downpipe, bracket, hardware $1200~
intercooler, radiator, hotpipe, bypass, fittings, couplers, hoses, clamps, $500~
harness parts, wiring repairs, OEM harnesses, details, $500~
clutch, flywheel work, pplate, tobearing, grease, seals $500~
for A/C: A/C lines, dryer, welding, recharge, wiring, $500~
misc gaskets and fluids $150

Here is what the engine will need in the near future (if it still has good engine bearings)
oil pump, guides, springs, valve job, gasket, serious cleaning, bolts $1000

If the engine bearing are bad, your best option is a next engine swap. Considering you as are were to put 1k into the head, and 1k into the turbo anyways, a whole next swap is 2k~ and you can sell off un-used parts to get something back. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

[Frank_Jaeger]

I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.
I wanted to do this for my friend's rigged SR swap done by Z fever in Tampa. Pull / replace / redo everything. He ended up selling the car because of problems. I could've saved it...

OP how much did you pickup your Kouki for? I got my Zenki converted Kouki for a great price and I'm in the process of SR swapping it. I'll be out about $6k by the time I'm done.

[SilviaHI]

Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.

Thanks! :2f2f:
Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.
BOV and WGA look to be separated, thanks for the tip :2f2f:

oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.

"ka-titties" :bowrofl:

WOW, that's pretty much the only thing I can say. Please tell that hack artist is a member here...
:ugh::
1. Pull the engine and transmission.
2. Clean the engine and transmission.
3. Clean the engine bay.
4. Put the shiny parts on.
5. Plop her back into her new clean home.


Also, I'd recommend getting a new harness from Wiring Specialties.

Sounds easy enough, I'll do it tomorrow morning before brekky :2f2f::2f2f:

[SilviaHI]

imo You are going to spend more fixing it back up than just buying a next 240sx with all the proper swapped parts and clean/good engine. You have almost nothing there to work with, everything looks to be abused unfortunately.

If you are adamant on proceeding, the proper thing to do at this point is, at the very least,

pull the engine, pressure wash the engine bay with degreaser. Throw away the old fuel lines and anything rubber you can manage to replace. I recommend going one step further and removing everything from the bay including all plastics panels bolts and wires, so that you can re-paint it proper. But that is time consuming if you do not have a shop to work with and a paint booth and gun etc...


if you think the engine is still good, you need to pressure wash it as well. remove anything you can manage and paint all exposed metal surfaces with suitable paint after a degreasing/washing.

take the trans off and perform all FSM inspections. Replace flywheel if necessary. Certainly replace clutch/pplate/tobearing and the rear main seal. Check trans end play and transmission front seal for leaks.

Ditch the cheap manifold and get a stock manifold. buy oem locking tabs and a new OEM gasket. Use a new turbocharger, do not mess with used junk, especially when you see oil frothing from the bypass like that. It will cost you days of labor and all those new gaskets to find out your old turbo is shot.

Inspect the oil for metal. Remove the lower pan and inspect the oil pickup. Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Find where the wiring was done, and inspect how it was done. If the harness appears to be OEM then it was probably done by the ECU and it is probably a huge mess judging by the rest of the car, and that will give you electrical problems down the road.

Re-cut the intercooler hole at the battery tray to be circular (or at least NEAT) and protect it with rubber and paint.

For the battery, use an OEM lower engine harness (you can use one from a KA that matches the year of the 240sx if you need to) and get rid of any/all electrical tape connections. Use an OEM ground wire (if it needs to be said). You dont want patched up wiring anywhere on any car, especially with electrical tape.


Buy an aluminum sr20det radiator and some high quality sr specific hoses. Get a clutch fan/OEM shroud on the engine for best results and least maintenance. Dont forget the electric helper fan under the OEM shroud which turns on when you flip the A/C. You need a new dryer for A/C also once the system is open.

The hot-pipe IMO, needs to be re-made from 2.5" high quality U-bent material, custom cut/fit/welded is ideal, with a proper push type bypass on the hot side of course, recirculated by into the pre-turbo inlet just like factory.

If the turbo is spewing oil then the intercooler is probably full of oil residue as well. You need to get all oil out of there, and if the core is cheap chinese style, i would throw it away and get a next one. The pipes you can simply degrease carefully.

Oil for the trans is redline MT-90, dont use anything off the shelf.

those OEM front brakes need to go if you actually get the car rolling.

the rust in the radiator/engine is due to someone using tap water. You need to perform several flushes, using distilled water and your choice of radiator flush. Then drive the car for 100-5000 miles and do more flushing. Always use distilled water and mix in coolant if you need it (if your outside temperature drops to freezing you need to figure out how much coolant you will need).

Use the oem water pump....

the maf should not be exposed. I cant believe that it actually works to tell the truth. I feel like you would be better off just buying a whole new motor swap based on what I see.

you need a real downpipe (high quality) with the crossmember->downpipe bracket (IS ESSENTIAL) or you will be chasing exhaust leaks forever. For-ever.

The IACV tube (clear plastic section in the picture) looks to be coated in oil, further implicating that your turbo is bad and should not be used. It also reinforces the notion that your intercooler core is full of oil residue and should be replaced. And not to scare you, but the oil is probably frothing around inside the engine now, creating thick sludge and partially burnt hydrocarbon residues that adhere to all manner of surfaces, raising compression ratio and causing detonation and hot-spots within the engine. You need to pull the intake manifold and have a look at the runners and as much of the head and valves as you can see, and clean them if you actually intend to run the engine. The same goes for the exhaust side, look at your exhaust valves and decide if the head is going to get you the mileage you want from it. Once they get this old, there is no question the head needs new guides and springs, as you run the risk of dropping a valve.


make sure you are prepared to install: air filter bracket, ECU bracket, downpipe bracket, igniter bracket, intake manifold bracket (three bolts hold a large heavy black bracket), OEM ground wires, OEM power wires





basically you are looking a not only a complete swap, but a re-swap and re-configuration of all components. Nothing on that car looks to be done right. You can check my thread for a little checklist (first post) of all the stuff I Keep in mind.

Here is a rough breakdown of what I see you spending (budget)
lines, turbo, manifold, gaskets, downpipe, bracket, hardware $1200~
intercooler, radiator, hotpipe, bypass, fittings, couplers, hoses, clamps, $500~
harness parts, wiring repairs, OEM harnesses, details, $500~
clutch, flywheel work, pplate, tobearing, grease, seals $500~
for A/C: A/C lines, dryer, welding, recharge, wiring, $500~
misc gaskets and fluids $150

Here is what the engine will need in the near future (if it still has good engine bearings)
oil pump, guides, springs, valve job, gasket, serious cleaning, bolts $1000

If the engine bearing are bad, your best option is a next engine swap. Considering you as are were to put 1k into the head, and 1k into the turbo anyways, a whole next swap is 2k~ and you can sell off un-used parts to get something back. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

great news! the turbo is actually new, the old t28 that blew has been replaced with the one on it now. I don't hear any weird sounds and normal shaft play so I'm crossing my fingers. I will clean that intake manifold because it is dirty in there but the intercooler wasn't that bad and I already cleaned it out so those are good :) Also, I don't need a/c for this car in Hawaii so no worries about that. So yeah, I'ma follow a lot of what you said and look into it all, thanks so much for all that info!! PROPS! :2f2f::2f2f::2f2f: So I'm hoping that my motor is not blown and that I will only need a grand or two to get this think runnin top. I guess I'll know better of what to do when I try to fire it up :drama::2f2f: But yes, I am wiling to go the distance! :2f2f::2f2f:

I wanted to do this for my friend's rigged SR swap done by Z fever in Tampa. Pull / replace / redo everything. He ended up selling the car because of problems. I could've saved it...

OP how much did you pickup your Kouki for? I got my Zenki converted Kouki for a great price and I'm in the process of SR swapping it. I'll be out about $6k by the time I'm done.

$4,200 locally in Hawaii, it's not a bad deal.... RUNNING :bowrofl::dead:

[SilviaHI]

Ready to pull the motor! :drama::2f2f:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n3rsplBD7tk/Veo9UvHvJXI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/e6xBbPvs6PI/s912-Ic42/IMG_0859.JPG

The gift that keeps on giving! :picardfp:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R6i-ipEKHD4/Veo9XYMjqGI/AAAAAAAAAMY/exHZTouF_9o/s640-Ic42/IMG_0861.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-La5wB5-Bpm4/Veo9ZDYtVzI/AAAAAAAAAMg/w9TRPNqCqms/s640-Ic42/IMG_0862.JPG

Bye bye A/C & Electric water pump!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DgWuUVjYFJQ/Veo9ck2H4HI/AAAAAAAAAMo/axkRtrP8NYY/s912-Ic42/IMG_0863.JPG

I'm gonna refurbish head light

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XH1wEC7Gsxg/Veo9tDlOCxI/AAAAAAAAANg/uTIzd4XCh_I/s640-Ic42/IMG_0840.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2jlVE-BAuDE/Veo9uiIgYhI/AAAAAAAAANo/5f1mUcxdF6w/s640-Ic42/IMG_0841.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4fkXw0Fnm4o/Veo9z4quHmI/AAAAAAAAANw/Xma7ojBOMRU/s640-Ic42/IMG_0845.JPG

power wash time
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XHeGGxV4-48/Veo9pdk_szI/AAAAAAAAANY/6xcw32ORfAI/s640-Ic42/IMG_0875.JPG

Lots of thanks
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fMDKkfNKwOo/Veo9gE19n0I/AAAAAAAAAMw/COvOLgjyULo/s640-Ic42/IMG_0868.JPG

found out both left side buttons are interchangeable in terms of fit. (I'm missing one)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9P-UeXd9ICc/Veo9hzPB82I/AAAAAAAAAM4/MlrGBaXQXr8/s912-Ic42/IMG_0870.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d2-nRzoldhI/Veo9jqhm92I/AAAAAAAAANA/JRI5WIM4Mo0/s912-Ic42/IMG_0871.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1b4jgbJCvuM/Veo9ls74WyI/AAAAAAAAANI/iBvChb4KNgU/s912-Ic42/IMG_0873.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9kZBNhXxwdQ/Veo9nQQkAPI/AAAAAAAAANQ/RIUn5jyRnfI/s912-Ic42/IMG_0874.JPG

has foam sound deadener all over
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eemejBsY61U/Vec0KjeCBbI/AAAAAAAAAB4/3gJNyyXWmko/s640-Ic42/IMG_0683.JPG

damn it how do i embed a video!
ZA3iA0uPXXQ

[Kingtal0n]

240s have this thing with the sides of the trunk areas, there always seems to be some toys/change/goop (I use the term loosely). One of the first things i do is empty the trunk completely, both sides, and wash it with degreaser (there are plugs to run water out on both sides and in the middle of the trunk area, take them all out and be liberal with water) and inspect the seam glues, then paint inside the seam glues (pics in my thread, again) to prevent future rust.

You seem commited, best of luck, I enjoy seeing your pictures and if you keep posting I will add whatever I can along the way.

As to your pictures above about the headlight, the "chrome falling apart" is a common feature on all 240s (it isn't just yours) however the way it is strapped up, and the cheap HID component are an eye sore. I would go back to halogens, or use some REAL HID retrofit lamps (Like lexus RX300 with philips bulbs, w/ modified plates). I actually have a set but the cost is preventive (est. $800 to retrofit with real ballasts and modifications).

You can save some money by sourcing an OEM exhaust system. The factory exhaust will support 300rwhp and is perfect for a stock sr20det. Its exactly the same thing on our cars that comes on JDM silvia with sr20det anyways.

[S14kouki805]

. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Talon- Can you elaborate on why you advise against a rebuild? Common mistakes, issues, etc.

Also please explain why denting the oil pan outward (I assume to reduce the chance of oil starvation)?

[Kingtal0n]

. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Talon- Can you elaborate on why you advise against a rebuild? Common mistakes, issues, etc.

Also please explain why denting the oil pan outward (I assume to reduce the chance of oil starvation)?

Denting the pan outward is cheap insurance. Many an sr has failed because the space between the pickup and pan were too small.

Here is a small list (I stopped keeping track) of sr20's that failed shortly after being built

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535520
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=569861
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=5765974
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=579996
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=586960

The common theme is, even experienced engine builders have trouble with this engine.

[racepar1]

That's basically every 240 out there, no real surprise. At least the chasis/body look pretty clean.

Most likely you don't need another engine, Kingtal0n is just being overly anal and fussy because that's who he is. However, most of the stuff he's mentioning needs to be done. Go over the ENTIRE car from front to back, top to bottom, with a fine toothed comb. You'll find all sorts of awesome surprises. Check the engine and drivetrain thoroughly and do ALL the maintenance items. You could hook up a battery to the starter even with the engine out of the car and do a compression test just to verify it's good. Good luck, you appear to be taking the time to put it together correctly.

[SilviaHI]

240s have this thing with the sides of the trunk areas, there always seems to be some toys/change/goop (I use the term loosely). One of the first things i do is empty the trunk completely, both sides, and wash it with degreaser (there are plugs to run water out on both sides and in the middle of the trunk area, take them all out and be liberal with water) and inspect the seam glues, then paint inside the seam glues (pics in my thread, again) to prevent future rust.

You seem commited, best of luck, I enjoy seeing your pictures and if you keep posting I will add whatever I can along the way.

As to your pictures above about the headlight, the "chrome falling apart" is a common feature on all 240s (it isn't just yours) however the way it is strapped up, and the cheap HID component are an eye sore. I would go back to halogens, or use some REAL HID retrofit lamps (Like lexus RX300 with philips bulbs, w/ modified plates). I actually have a set but the cost is preventive (est. $800 to retrofit with real ballasts and modifications).

You can save some money by sourcing an OEM exhaust system. The factory exhaust will support 300rwhp and is perfect for a stock sr20det. Its exactly the same thing on our cars that comes on JDM silvia with sr20det anyways.

Big RAJAH on the oem exhaust! :rawk::rawk: I won't be going for more than what the stock t28 can handle anyways. :2f2f: As for "goop" thing, theres also a bunch of foam down there, I wonder if I should empty it out and clean it or just leave it. It seems to help deaden sound.. :-/ For lights, yeah, halogen's sound like best thing to do.. The $$$ keep adding up.. :drama::naughty::2f2f:



That's basically every 240 out there, no real surprise. At least the chasis/body look pretty clean.

Most likely you don't need another engine, Kingtal0n is just being overly anal and fussy because that's who he is. However, most of the stuff he's mentioning needs to be done. Go over the ENTIRE car from front to back, top to bottom, with a fine toothed comb. You'll find all sorts of awesome surprises. Check the engine and drivetrain thoroughly and do ALL the maintenance items. You could hook up a battery to the starter even with the engine out of the car and do a compression test just to verify it's good. Good luck, you appear to be taking the time to put it together correctly.

Yeah it drove straight as an arrow and the body was straight and if I can get this all done with a $2k, its going to be a lot of car for $6,500 :naughty::2f2f::w00t::snoop:
But yes, I'll go over everything and will do all the maintenance. Ill keep this thread updated with my "surprises" :rofl::hyper::hahano:

So wheres what I'm doing now until I get to the motor.. I think I'll try to make a how-to and give a minuscule contribution to this awesome forum. How-to wash the cloth seats:.. No directions but just loading up pics so eh.. LOL[

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QyEVILq-0pc/Vep0iOXEK4I/AAAAAAAAAOM/mJ2unFZZhB0/s640-Ic42/IMG_0877.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--UpCqAA9lD4/Vep0jlz4TxI/AAAAAAAAAOU/mu2aAhiZdRY/s912-Ic42/IMG_0878.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rW6kFSMVTKg/Vep0lu47bmI/AAAAAAAAAOc/eanX6S9Ew-s/s912-Ic42/IMG_0879.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cvoX6RE7-7g/Vep0nX21ARI/AAAAAAAAAOk/ZEAp_czYP6g/s912-Ic42/IMG_0881.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-33rsdYWGAYk/Vep0qwzmKuI/AAAAAAAAAOs/V--pzyV5StA/s912-Ic42/IMG_0883.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vWVeNgbGviU/Vep0td-JsEI/AAAAAAAAAO0/Az-20telTQ8/s640-Ic42/IMG_0887.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4sG8P71rsNs/Vep0xQihg1I/AAAAAAAAAO8/J1TWzJX-0iA/s640-Ic42/IMG_0890.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b2UF1n-dWdY/Vep0ywKOWSI/AAAAAAAAAPE/VRz4-o8O9eE/s640-Ic42/IMG_0891.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kl9yhe0AY60/Vep02L3xoaI/AAAAAAAAAPM/VYsPxWHMKAo/s640-Ic42/IMG_0894.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EC-vWDrc3_s/Vep04aX6yAI/AAAAAAAAAPU/4ZzGVyZ60ZY/s640-Ic42/IMG_0895.JPG

[SilviaHI]

Ah crap, I think I just learned that I have a bb t28 (code 14411-69F00, good news actually lol) Did I buy the wrong lines? I remember something about a restrictor :( https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hpjMIkrvH-U/VedCO5WatNI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/ZELvIQXErPE/s640-Ic42/IMG_0808.JPG

[racepar1]

Boy, that's a lot of effort to wash those eats. I always just use a shitload of simple green and a hose, without disassembling anything...

[SilviaHI]

Boy, that's a lot of effort to wash those eats. I always just use a shitload of simple green and a hose, without disassembling anything...

I'm going to refoam the drivers side seat too :naughty: Never tried it but I'll give it a shot. Its also simply the best way to get ALL the build up off. It's going to be fresh smelling :2f2f:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0UTrt1ypMNc/Veu97lsBceI/AAAAAAAAAQg/bjKcF9M4Fjs/s912-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0892_1024.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w2Wsn6NXCHk/Veu8_o2Oj3I/AAAAAAAAAPo/yrorLrSnkJQ/s912-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0904_1024.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u1vzsv2dowg/Veu9BxxvI9I/AAAAAAAAAP4/sdGkWtyJgTs/s360-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0905.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WLR14mujo7U/Veu9Ad-QvPI/AAAAAAAAAPw/K21twIvfLD4/s360-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0906.jpg

swaybar contact, need to get the suspension dailed in
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rbspZcygQMo/Veu9FwxrcJI/AAAAAAAAAQI/BjFE9l6QcvA/s640-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0915_1024.jpg

axle boot is ripped, also need tierods..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fJ8wdwBAtBg/Veu9KhAh1lI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/U-KZPAJZsIE/s360-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0909.jpg

grounds hangin all over lol
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FJG1WMXkLZk/Veu9MTB6tBI/AAAAAAAAAQY/ATBu5noQ_9I/s360-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0912.jpg

[SilviaHI]

more surprises! :2f2f::2f2f:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MMJnfvnfVM8/VezxD1BBV4I/AAAAAAAAARs/i6Ne2LV0SXY/s640-Ic42/IMG_0946.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OTViZcSC2-g/VezxE_x0HJI/AAAAAAAAAR0/odDTK400f1s/s640-Ic42/IMG_0945.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4H_5gicejlQ/VezxHJTWxPI/AAAAAAAAAR8/6veHhbSPTzc/s912-Ic42/IMG_0948.JPG

drivers side
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lmgNgtVdNiQ/VezxJaXNgdI/AAAAAAAAAS0/qOKqBGSuaDM/s912-Ic42/IMG_0949.JPG

passenger side https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ajwZBDwsehE/VezxTd6IhbI/AAAAAAAAASU/ClaUuci0R6A/s912-Ic42/IMG_0952.JPG

This for the downpipes brackets? Either way there should be bolts there! :picardfp::ugh:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qhJCp8pEt14/Vezw-mDasKI/AAAAAAAAARU/3Xl7XlVMYv0/s640-Ic42/IMG_0940.JPG

?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oahXj2xyDfA/VezxA8rTTOI/AAAAAAAAARc/InTjKIHNw4g/s640-Ic42/IMG_0942.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3dNltIE4Cp8/VezxCBf5n6I/AAAAAAAAARk/ySX4E5wAnhk/s912-Ic42/IMG_0943.JPG

Can anyone tell me what short shifter this is? I might need new bushings or springs or something.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jfWNmAc4FBc/Vezw5IqzaRI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/yttf9R6iDEU/s640-Ic42/IMG_0935.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1LVca5dL6j8/Vezw6nnjcwI/AAAAAAAAARE/DuNJkhhSBdY/s640-Ic42/IMG_0932.JPG

By the way, I don't know anything about the sound system lol

[SilviaHI]

update:
My buddy and I got it out no problem
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3cj9ew7H-ac/VfH1fZTFtHI/AAAAAAAAATQ/yu6QM6VrAjQ/s912-Ic42/IMG_0970.JPG

cleaned off like 10lb of oil crap from the trans tunnel and subframe lol
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iEqHZ9ABmh0/VfH1qWDF-3I/AAAAAAAAAUI/E3nrl6apnGg/s912-Ic42/IMG_0978.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CMcGUSx0KsY/VfH1rjPj6II/AAAAAAAAAUQ/TiSYV1LXEng/s912-Ic42/IMG_0979.JPG

Might have a issue with turbo oil feed.. I've ordered the banjo and Illl hope the thread is good :picardfp:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cBbieBYQXN8/VfH1vBylAAI/AAAAAAAAAUo/ISj2ERkPaOI/s640-Ic42/IMG_0982.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aBTES4lKaUs/VfH119uKoJI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/fYU50bTLjtk/s640-Ic42/IMG_0987.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BwMNZMJF3WU/VfH10e29NtI/AAAAAAAAAVI/jKkbDG3q4H0/s640-Ic42/IMG_0986.JPG

Fixed valve stem on two wheels, turns out the previous owner drilled the hole bigger because he couldn't find the needed ones. :picardfp:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yvXn1TaXaNU/VfH16XK7FvI/AAAAAAAAAVg/2b4viEGbp2Y/s912-Ic42/IMG_0994.JPG

Today I'm going to take off the transmission and inspect the clutch and what not. :2f2f::2f2f:

I'm thinking I'll repaint the engine bay. White white white :)

[gabefromcali]

Nice. I just got into the same scenario as you but with a zenki. Good luck I'm rooting for ya!

[Kingtal0n]

pressure clean the bay and engine. Cover the igniter, CAS, and all oil ports.
Use some kind of degreaser (purple power or something) and a parts washer brush for the edges/corners. If you intend to paint you will also want to wipe it down with some powerful solvent before painting. Usually there is a "prep wipe" to use while the car is sitting in the paint booth right before you spray it. It sounds like you intend to rattle can it though, so do not overlook this prep step.

Also if you intend to run the head without a valve-job (among other maint.) you will at least want to pull the intake and clean (use brake cleaner and paper towels) all the carbon soot coating the ports. There is also something the V8 guys are doing, that is, using crushed walnut shells to clean the valves, if you are interested I can provide some links, it can be done using all harbor freight materials and makes the valves look almost new again.

For your oil outlet (to turbo from block) this is a common issue when you have over-used (about 5 tries is all we seem to get) the threads. A long time ago the thing to do was heli-coil it and pray none of the shaving from your drill get into the engine. I hope yours does not come to this.

If you can manage, use the supplied braided hose banjo bolt in the existing threads if all all possible. Do not over tighten them. Better to have it leak a little bit on startup, then snug it tight, than to OVER-tighten it up-front, and later have to remove it for some reason damaging the threads.

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

It does look like your trans is missing bolts. But I feel like this is the least of your worries right now, judging by everything else.

You need all new exhaust gaskets for the turbo re-install. I am not sure when you are planning this, however, to repeat what I mentioned earlier, you will want the OEM locking tabs, OEM manifold gasket, and you will probably want to buy new studs and nuts for the manifold as well. Also, keep in mind the mating surface between manifold/turbo will require a STRONG SIGNIFICANT cleaning, it took me almost an hour with a wire wheel (a big, high speed industrial wheel) to slowly work the carbon buildup off the surface. You would be surprised how much is there, and how it can look like metal but is in fact a carbon sheet.

Annnd.. that oil return line needs to go. Thats what we call in the business an engine death hose. You want a high quality braided piece of hose for the oil return duty.

[SilviaHI]

Nice. I just got into the same scenario as you but with a zenki. Good luck I'm rooting for ya!

Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too! :coolugh::drama::2f2f:

pressure clean the bay and engine. Cover the igniter, CAS, and all oil ports.
Use some kind of degreaser (purple power or something) and a parts washer brush for the edges/corners. If you intend to paint you will also want to wipe it down with some powerful solvent before painting. Usually there is a "prep wipe" to use while the car is sitting in the paint booth right before you spray it. It sounds like you intend to rattle can it though, so do not overlook this prep step.
BIG RAJAH! :naughty::2f2f::trogdor:

Also if you intend to run the head without a valve-job (among other maint.) you will at least want to pull the intake and clean (use brake cleaner and paper towels) all the carbon soot coating the ports. There is also something the V8 guys are doing, that is, using crushed walnut shells to clean the valves, if you are interested I can provide some links, it can be done using all harbor freight materials and makes the valves look almost new again.

I opened up the intake manifold and to my surprise, it was oil free :) I think its just right behind the throttle body. But the exhaust side of the head does look dirty.. New head gasket is and valve cover gasket is going be another big chunk of change my student wallet doesn't want to pay LOL :facepalm: I'm thinking I'll throw in a new intake manifold gasket and call it a day, what do you think?

For your oil outlet (to turbo from block) this is a common issue when you have over-used (about 5 tries is all we seem to get) the threads. A long time ago the thing to do was heli-coil it and pray none of the shaving from your drill get into the engine. I hope yours does not come to this.

:ugh::ugh::w00t::naw::dead::faint::bow:

If you can manage, use the supplied braided hose banjo bolt in the existing threads if all all possible. Do not over tighten them. Better to have it leak a little bit on startup, then snug it tight, than to OVER-tighten it up-front, and later have to remove it for some reason damaging the threads.

Got it :2f2f:

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

Yes I'm missing that rubber boot, I wonder if the OEM one fits the aftermarket short shifter.. I would be open to getting a totally new shifter assembly but my wallet does this, :hide: LOL. On a good note, I believe I found the culprit! The bushing that connects the shaft ball thing to the transmission has a lot of play. I'm gonna try to replace this and see how it goes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LOZADj7WcYg/VfOJdFzEnRI/AAAAAAAAAWc/w0bMP9qEfOo/s912-Ic42/IMG_1031.JPG

It does look like your trans is missing bolts. But I feel like this is the least of your worries right now, judging by everything else.
:rofl: I was missing FOUR! :picardfp:

You need all new exhaust gaskets for the turbo re-install. I am not sure when you are planning this, however, to repeat what I mentioned earlier, you will want the OEM locking tabs, OEM manifold gasket, and you will probably want to buy new studs and nuts for the manifold as well. Also, keep in mind the mating surface between manifold/turbo will require a STRONG SIGNIFICANT cleaning, it took me almost an hour with a wire wheel (a big, high speed industrial wheel) to slowly work the carbon buildup off the surface. You would be surprised how much is there, and how it can look like metal but is in fact a carbon sheet.

Thanks for the tips, will do for sure! And yes, I already got all OEM new exhaust side gaskets and I'm about to order all new nuts, studs and bolts for exhaust side stuff and transmission. :naughty::2f2f:

Annnd.. that oil return line needs to go. Thats what we call in the business an engine death hose. You want a high quality braided piece of hose for the oil return duty.

Got it! Kingtal0n, thanks so much for taking the time to help me. It is extremely helpful and also helps me unmeasurably condense my reading time. :snoop::snoop::rawk::rawk:

And thanks to others for the words of encouragment. It really does help when taking on something like this LOL :D:D:Ownedd::Ownedd::snoop::2f2f::2f2f::2f2f:

And on to the transmission! Hows it look?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DHRT5G5FvOc/VfOJka5vM1I/AAAAAAAAAW0/o6eJK503oe4/s912-Ic42/IMG_1037.JPG

Looks like hot spots?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mhOKWtuFPVE/VfOJa6U6mMI/AAAAAAAAAWU/hzIcKagTuWI/s912-Ic42/IMG_1030.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-32Mk8EV3spQ/VfOJUt_OBJI/AAAAAAAAAV0/rTj5D9_-rnI/s912-Ic42/IMG_1024.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pqLXA1FgrIQ/VfOJWQRd33I/AAAAAAAAAV8/BKIUgUeHlUo/s912-Ic42/IMG_1025.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KudfOnUPvC0/VfOJXtcYt0I/AAAAAAAAAWE/BAXzeu3BSsQ/s912-Ic42/IMG_1026.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vAM_Ggz3qvc/VfOJZWWoXCI/AAAAAAAAAWM/3mW2ItcJ-ys/s912-Ic42/IMG_1027.JPG

[S14kouki805]

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

This explains that damn smell!!! I though it was coming through the firewall!

Regarding the stereo wiring those wires from Boston Acoustics are for a set of component mid-high range speakers. They are crossovers, I would yank all that shit out and wire in a new set since you don't seem to have the Bostons present.

[SilviaHI]

This explains that damn smell!!! I though it was coming through the firewall!

Regarding the stereo wiring those wires from Boston Acoustics are for a set of component mid-high range speakers. They are crossovers, I would yank all that shit out and wire in a new set since you don't seem to have the Bostons present.

Haha cool, I'm sure others who have read this thread and got good info out of it. :2f2f: Are you saying I can't make the stuff thats there work? Is it worth any money?

Some more parts came! :D

Made a mistake though.. Accidentally got a s13 MAF instead of the s14 :picardfp:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8UpYMbhiyTk/VfPBC_CtKfI/AAAAAAAAAXI/6Zf2x4aOSjk/s640-Ic42/IMG_1038.JPG

Bent up and diiiirty..

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GkTSnt-X93s/VfPBIAS8UMI/AAAAAAAAAXg/2tl-mei2MWI/s640-Ic42/IMG_1042.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jXZrx4Q8Afg/VfPBHDSr-zI/AAAAAAAAAXY/ZvzhMjJKnNw/s640-Ic42/IMG_1041.JPG

Straightened with the back end of a butter knife and cleaned with 409 :2f2f: More cleaning coming :hyper:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mwjfpNV0-j8/VfPBN7unWAI/AAAAAAAAAYA/0MRCj8qUdn0/s640-Ic42/IMG_1047.JPG

Big thanks to FRSPORT!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qV15gppzFkc/VfPBJo92chI/AAAAAAAAAXo/jie3szA3GfE/s912-Ic42/IMG_1043.JPG


GOTTA HAVE IT FOR ME COFFEEEEEZ :2f2f::rawk::hyper::coold::yum:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WbBMzuXqff4/VfPBKolGhaI/AAAAAAAAAXw/gNq6u_02-x0/s912-Ic42/IMG_1044.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-svk0eAxDsWQ/VfPBLuKmXnI/AAAAAAAAAX4/bPB7XWaR338/s912-Ic42/IMG_1045.JPG

[S14DB]

You are going to need a new clutch kit and resurface the flywheel.

[SilviaHI]

I did not want to hear that :/

[turbo11]

I'm in a similar scenario although not as bad. Good to see you have the effort to fix it.

[TurboTiger]

I wish you the best of luck. I'm sure others will agree with me but you have a long road ahead of you. Regardless... I'm glad to see you're willing to bring this car back to life. So many hack jobs in the 240 world.

[SilviaHI]

I'm in a similar scenario although not as bad. Good to see you have the effort to fix it.

Thanks man. Start a thread so we can support each other as our wallets, :cry: I'm lucky that i'm only taking two classes so time I have, money... not so much lol

I wish you the best of luck. I'm sure others will agree with me but you have a long road ahead of you. Regardless... I'm glad to see you're willing to bring this car back to life. So many hack jobs in the 240 world.

I was actually hoping I would get it up and running by tomorrow, the last day of autocross for the next couple months :picardfp:

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/5a/5a7ff4bb50d35e70e27bbb37bfd3a001919cda2eaebde48b4e 8152c2c46ecf5c.jpg

[TurboTiger]

Thanks man. Start a thread so we can support each other as our wallets, :cry: I'm lucky that i'm only taking two classes so time I have, money... not so much lol



I was actually hoping I would get it up and running by tomorrow, the last day of autocross for the next couple months :picardfp:


I'd make sure everything checks out before you do something like an autocross event. This should give you plenty of time to have everything sorted out for the beginning of the next season.

[SilviaHI]

I'd make sure everything checks out before you do something like an autocross event. This should give you plenty of time to have everything sorted out for the beginning of the next season.

That's the plan :2f2f::2f2f::2f2f:

Here's a lil clip from todays autocross.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113965626191549455568&target=PHOTO&id=6194234017709556914

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113965626191549455568&target=PHOTO&id=6194234017709556914
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113965626191549455568&target=PHOTO&id=6194234017709556914

[Crazyced]

Keep the work and pictures going. I'm also (very slowly) going through a restoration myself and this is inspiring.

[S14kouki805]

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

[TurboTiger]

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

Why do you need a system in that car? Doesn't it already have an SR with an aftermarket exhaust?

[Kingtal0n]

A simple radio with some normal size lightweight speakers isnt going to hurt anything. If you decide to run OEM exhaust you need something to listen to anyways.
I run the OEM exhaust, with a cut-out, that way I can hear the engine when I need/want.

Miles of unwanted cable, however, is unwanted. Every penny, toy, wire, nut, chewing gum that you find under your carpet and in the corners of the trunk you find is some 0.XXXX% of fuel economy and horsepower waiting to be unleashed.

[SilviaHI]

Keep the work and pictures going. I'm also (very slowly) going through a restoration myself and this is inspiring.

Haha yeah maybe I inspire to get in over your head LOL :picardfp::2f2f:

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

:rawk::rawk::rawk::2f2f::2f2f::2f2f:

Why do you need a system in that car? Doesn't it already have an SR with an aftermarket exhaust?

EXACTLY :newbie::ughug::2f2f::2f2f::rawk::rawk:

A simple radio with some normal size lightweight speakers isnt going to hurt anything. If you decide to run OEM exhaust you need something to listen to anyways.
I run the OEM exhaust, with a cut-out, that way I can hear the engine when I need/want.

Miles of unwanted cable, however, is unwanted. Every penny, toy, wire, nut, chewing gum that you find under your carpet and in the corners of the trunk you find is some 0.XXXX% of fuel economy and horsepower waiting to be unleashed.

I'm running a straight pipe LOL, and yeah, weight reduction is weight reduction :2f2f::2f2f::2f2f: My last car was a 01 Miata w/6 speed, lsd, coilovers & 8lb flywheel :2f2f:

So heres where I'm at.. I can't figure out how to remove that lower oil pan, am I missing something besides the bolts? my plan is to measure my bearing clearances

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yWUoRhrqZFU/VfdxuoLzJBI/AAAAAAAAAxE/Gl3JShiVKbA/s640-Ic42/IMG_1205.JPG

Is this supposed to be sealed?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c5f4eg3fUjk/VfdxwuC9wCI/AAAAAAAAAxM/9ZDzUgEsKTg/s640-Ic42/IMG_1206.JPG

Then I see this... My oil filter was still on when I flipped it but does this leak mean anything?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4CQr9XzxRTg/VfdxzYqoRjI/AAAAAAAAAxc/N7mUviY8F3Y/s640-Ic42/IMG_1208.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MZzRc85Mx90/Vfdx0ujwY4I/AAAAAAAAAxk/tRdPvEM0iKo/s912-Ic42/IMG_1209.JPG

I got my oem exhaust manifold :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0PEev1fpDG0/VfdxxndXDTI/AAAAAAAAAxU/y_Z8wQ4f8Rc/s640-Ic42/IMG_1207.JPG

[SilviaHI]

Finally! Wide band and oem water pump but no water pump gasket :hs:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GE-0yikZxIs/Vfh7u2LQVSI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/bDbrX1A3xK4/s912-Ic42/IMG_1214.JPG

More parts coming

[gabefromcali]

[QUOTE=SilviaHI;5940487]Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too! :coolugh::drama::2f2f:

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this. :snoop:

[Crazyced]

Is that valve open (it looks open)? Oil is making it passed the rings. I never tested but I don't think it's that unusual if it has been sitting like that for a while. Rings do have gaps.

If the valve is closed then it's an issue.

[Crazyced]

Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too! :coolugh::drama::2f2f:

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this. :snoop:Add a [ /QUOTE ] without spaces after his text to finish the quote (the Quote button usually does that for you).

[SilviaHI]

[QUOTE=SilviaHI;5940487]Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too! :coolugh::drama::2f2f:

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this. :snoop:

Thanks man!:2f2f::2f2f::2f2f::2f2f::2f2f::2f2f:


Is that valve open (it looks open)? Oil is making it passed the rings. I never tested but I don't think it's that unusual if it has been sitting like that for a while. Rings do have gaps.

If the valve is closed then it's an issue.

its now coming out of the intake ports of each cylinder. Hope it's just rings. :x:

[SilviaHI]

Some progress.. :picardfp:

gotta do what ya gotta do lol
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EwA3ZOCmkzA/Vf9Zw5m_z_I/AAAAAAAAA0c/DIMqE6fguwY/s640-Ic42/IMG_1228.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9daYT-iLq0w/Vf9Zz3RH4PI/AAAAAAAAA0s/uQB7ixyU2_o/s912-Ic42/IMG_1231.JPG

Found some "H" metal things and ball bearings! Is this from a previously blown BB turbo? (penny is to show size lol) :drama:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TEbwls9MCwo/Vf9Zytp1tAI/AAAAAAAAA0k/6OlUiemYQyA/s912-Ic42/IMG_1230.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gqlKZv2vmlg/Vf9Z1XuJPtI/AAAAAAAAA00/7QwMhYz_u0U/s640-Ic42/IMG_1232.JPG

Soooooo... My plan is to take a visual and measurements on at least one rod bearing. I picked up plastigauge too. Tips are welcome! :D

[Kingtal0n]

Alright

1. "Is this supposed to be sealed?"
That is an inspection plate. It just covers a tiny hole that allows you to see into the bellhousing.

2. When you turn an SR20 upside down the lifters all bleed out. So now you will have to remove the cams and lifters, and bleed the air out of them, before you re-start that engine. Never turn the motor upside down (or let the lifters sit sideways) for this reason.

3. Measuring a rod bearing is not going to tell you much, unless the whole engine needs to replaced. chances are that if the bottom end is in "trouble" then it is one bearing, often a single random rod bearing, that is in trouble. And trouble is visual, the bearing would look scored or ruined. "Plastigauge" is not a really useful tool for someone in your position. I am still in agreement that you could pull at least one bearing (either rod #1 or #4 IMO) Just to see that is looks decent. But I would put it right back to the torque you found it (FSM) without the use of plastigauge.

finally, all the gaskets you see are just silicone. I would use Toyota grey (or permatex grey) on all the oil pan / water pump gaskets. One big noob mistake is using too much; I recommend you practice on another object to see how little it really takes to seal something up. Excess gets squeezed out, and can wind up in your oil strainer (pickup). Another noob mistake is going too tight; make sure you follow FSM torque, it does not take much tightness to get a good seal and overtightning will cause leaks and in the case of your thin pan, bent mating surfaces.

[SilviaHI]

2. When you turn an SR20 upside down the lifters all bleed out. So now you will have to remove the cams and lifters, and bleed the air out of them, before you re-start that engine. Never turn the motor upside down (or let the lifters sit sideways) for this reason.



:picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp:

You don't think I can just run it and it will work itself out?

[TheRealSy90]

:picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp::picardfp:

You don't think I can just run it and it will work itself out?

Absolutely not! You need to pull the cams and bleed the lifters when you are done having it upside down.

[SilviaHI]

Okay well I looked up whats involved in taking out the cams and it doesn't look that bad so I'll go for it :) .... not like I really have a choice lol

[Kingtal0n]

Okay well I looked up whats involved in taking out the cams and it doesn't look that bad so I'll go for it :) .... not like I really have a choice lol

It really is simple. You need basic tools, a timing light, and a really good torque wrench. The torque wrench is everything. You need a very sensitive, delicate instrument, not a harbor freight unit or an old one thats been sitting around. The torque spec is about 9~ ft lbs of torque for the camshaft caps. An old, or cheap torque wrench could easily be off. A half-inch drive unit is likely too insensitive, you will want a 3/8 drive high quality torque wrench.

The camshafts can break if you do not torque them properly. Note in the instructions where it says to tighten the FRONT first, you want to do this gradually (do not simply tighten the first front two caps immediately to the first torque specification. Instead, bring them down 2/10 to 4/10 at a time, such that is takes 2-4 sequences, or 60 individual events, before the bolts have fully seated and begin to show 1-2 ft lbs of torque.) Once they are all "seated" and start showing torque, keep following the same sequence and now you are using the FSM sequence numbers i.e. 3ft lbs, 6ft lbs, 8.8 ft lbs

Lining up the cams and installing the tensioner should be simple enough for you if you can count links and verify lobe positions.

The cas sensor goes in a special way that should also be straightforward for you so make sure you look at that, and know where piston #1 TDC is on the crank pulley (second mark from the left, the yellow dot usually).

And finally the timing. The sr20 is a fickle mistress when it comes to lights. Some timing lights will give you incorrect timing, and some will not work at all. When I find a light that works well, I keep it and hold on to it forever. I still have the same old unit from 10+ years ago. Anyways, once you stab the CAS and have the cams all lined up, everything is pre-oiled and the tensioner is back in, you want to set the valve cover on the motor (but do not tighten it down, just in case something is wrong and you need to go back under there) and it should start just fine, because the CAS if installed correctly will always give you a good starting timing number between 10 and 20* btdc. The final adjustment you make with the car idling. Heres where everyone has their own tricks, that is, where you get your signal. I get my signal from the center coilpack wire of coilpack #1. I simply pull back the loom a bit and strap the pickup onto it. And heres the final trick: the pickup is reversible. If your cas is somewhat center, and the timing light is showing you some inane number like 35* that doesnt make any sense, reverse the pickup (flip it upside down) and check again.

[SilviaHI]

It really is simple. You need basic tools, a timing light, and a really good torque wrench. The torque wrench is everything. You need a very sensitive, delicate instrument, not a harbor freight unit or an old one thats been sitting around. The torque spec is about 9~ ft lbs of torque for the camshaft caps. An old, or cheap torque wrench could easily be off. A half-inch drive unit is likely too insensitive, you will want a 3/8 drive high quality torque wrench.

The camshafts can break if you do not torque them properly. Note in the instructions where it says to tighten the FRONT first, you want to do this gradually (do not simply tighten the first front two caps immediately to the first torque specification. Instead, bring them down 2/10 to 4/10 at a time, such that is takes 2-4 sequences, or 60 individual events, before the bolts have fully seated and begin to show 1-2 ft lbs of torque.) Once they are all "seated" and start showing torque, keep following the same sequence and now you are using the FSM sequence numbers i.e. 3ft lbs, 6ft lbs, 8.8 ft lbs

Lining up the cams and installing the tensioner should be simple enough for you if you can count links and verify lobe positions.

The cas sensor goes in a special way that should also be straightforward for you so make sure you look at that, and know where piston #1 TDC is on the crank pulley (second mark from the left, the yellow dot usually).

And finally the timing. The sr20 is a fickle mistress when it comes to lights. Some timing lights will give you incorrect timing, and some will not work at all. When I find a light that works well, I keep it and hold on to it forever. I still have the same old unit from 10+ years ago. Anyways, once you stab the CAS and have the cams all lined up, everything is pre-oiled and the tensioner is back in, you want to set the valve cover on the motor (but do not tighten it down, just in case something is wrong and you need to go back under there) and it should start just fine, because the CAS if installed correctly will always give you a good starting timing number between 10 and 20* btdc. The final adjustment you make with the car idling. Heres where everyone has their own tricks, that is, where you get your signal. I get my signal from the center coilpack wire of coilpack #1. I simply pull back the loom a bit and strap the pickup onto it. And heres the final trick: the pickup is reversible. If your cas is somewhat center, and the timing light is showing you some inane number like 35* that doesnt make any sense, reverse the pickup (flip it upside down) and check again.

Just first want to say thanks for all your help. I've yet to take on this portion of the 'rebuild' as I'm waiting to have a few days off where I can organize my workspace and plan it out. I saw a video of a guy bleeding the lifters without changing the timing by ziptie'ing the timing change to the cam gears. It looks like a lot less work but feed back on this would be appreciated.

On another note, I've been getting parts and waiting on others but here are 2 little challenge I encountered today. Help is welcome and NEEDED :D

I picked up a downpipes for $30 and it will need some modification...

As you can see, the exhaust that came with the car has been chopped up except the axle back muffler and the flange is turned the wrong way. I think I will install a universal/custom short catalytic converter AND flex pipe in the gap. EDIT: I can't find super short cat and joint that would in there thats not going to cost hundreds so I'll need to find a cheaper alternative.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AtvFgOFuEkw/VhBSt-Ql9BI/AAAAAAAAA78/ezFzwDiLGvM/s640-Ic42/IMG_0007.JPG

Hows the placement of that wideband bung? I believe its supposed to be located a foot AFTER any bends.. Is this one okay?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T8qtA117M34/VhBSvzNmfdI/AAAAAAAAA8E/qk46Y65zM4E/s912-Ic42/IMG_0005.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nraxkcjw_54/VhBS03cKX8I/AAAAAAAAA8c/BNYH_Ec7Pxw/s912-Ic42/IMG_0009.JPG

Yay all 3"!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-buTOwR97oms/VhBS5Md9NII/AAAAAAAAA8s/J5wkY-_K_Rg/s912-Ic42/IMG_0013.JPG

CHALLENGE 2

Turns out my JDM JUICE multi-piece wheels have a leak. One rivet has a air leak. Its hard to see but there is an arrow right below the most right spoke. I've done some reading on how to reseal the one rivet but input is welcome.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--qH-cZ-4DDQ/VhBSrUlyGcI/AAAAAAAAA70/eLY2c2ggJq0/s640-Ic42/IMG_0003.JPG

It looks like Riverside, the Japanese company that makes the wheels, does not have a contact number so I'm not sure of the torque spec so I picked this up. .. It measures torque when both removing AND tightening :D

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T65XNeBWAf4/VhBXnnB9juI/AAAAAAAAA9E/0YOJIHFnxfA/s640-Ic42/thumb_IMG_0014_1024.jpg

[Kingtal0n]

The exhaust should be the simplest, cheapest thing you do to your car. Ebay downpipes are something like $40 now and the test pipe part is no longer necessary on some of them. The only thing after that you need is an OEM exhaust system which can be found locally for $20 whenever I needed one. Literally should be a $70 venture max.

The wideband should be 3-5 feet from the turbo (the wideband should stay below about 1000*F), with as few joints and gaskets between itself and the engine. An exhaust leak will make the sensor read incorrectly; this is why we prefer to limit the number of gaskets (places to leak from) in front of the wideband. The turbo flange needs an OEM gasket and about 1-2 hours of work removing ancient built up carbon (pretty sure I mentioned that alrdy but...) then you use brand new OEM locking tabs followed by an OEM outlet (or other high quality outlet. Ebay brands are known to crack). And finally it is essential to connect the trans-downpipe bracket.

[SilviaHI]

OEM exhaust system which can be found locally for $20 whenever I needed one. Literally should be a $70 venture max.

:hs::hs::hs::cry::cry: You don't understand... I live on a island of hawaii with a total population of 200,000. This whole island is country and theres literally no 240's for parts. Also, its common for eBay sellers to refuse shipping to hawaii for whatever reason. Being on the continental US can have major advantages, but oh well, i can't complain. :D

The wideband should be 3-5 feet from the turbo (the wideband should stay below about 1000*F), with as few joints and gaskets between itself and the engine. An exhaust leak will make the sensor read incorrectly; this is why we prefer to limit the number of gaskets (places to leak from) in front of the wideband. The turbo flange needs an OEM gasket and about 1-2 hours of work removing ancient built up carbon (pretty sure I mentioned that alrdy but...) then you use brand new OEM locking tabs followed by an OEM outlet (or other high quality outlet. Ebay brands are known to crack). And finally it is essential to connect the trans-downpipe bracket.

1. At $50 shipped for a oem turbo outlet, i might just wait for it to break :picardfp::):2f2f:
2. Move bung back, got it
3. Prep flanges and new gasket and hardware, check
4. Downpipes bracket, without a doubt!

[S14kouki805]

So what ever happened?