sciamop
08-25-2004, 08:36 AM
To Recap: I bought a redtop 180sx clip from Jarco for $2600 + $800 shipping. I have a clean 93 Coupe that I got for $200 (blown motor)...
Day 3: Monkey around with the brake pedal in the automatic donor car for like 2 hours. Read zilvia.net. Use grinder to cut pedal in half. I then spent another hour or so removing the clutch pedal/master cylinder from the clip. I thought I could get away with a ghetto approach on drilling the master cylinder hole in the donor car. Wrong. Ran out to get 1 3/8" hole saw. I used a 3/8" bit to drill the bolt holes for the MC.
I also removed the intercooler -- again, fairly straightforward. 4 or 5 12mm bolts and it's out. Remember to use all the brackets from the clip... I lodged more non-safety glass into my skin (elbow).
Day 4: Install intercooler into donor car. Disconnected all hoses/all wires/hard-line/etc from the clip. Also, pulled the mangled radiator out of the clip. Ready to remove the engine...
Day 5: Remove/Install engine day.
The RH motor mount was broken from the accident and the LH nut was stripped so I removed the mount from the top. I was feeling lazy, so I decided to leave the downpipe on the engine -- this proved to be a big PITA. When I was installing the engine, I finally took it off. So, remember to remove the downpipe before pulling the engine.
The pull took a little longer than usual because the clip was so bent. The x-member was bent a little bit so the trans got hung up on it a few times.
While I had the engine out, I re-arranged the heater hoses, removed the AIV shite and the lower turbo heat shield. The AIV hard line was pretty rusted on. Solution: lots of PB blaster and some heat. I also removed the oil pan and banged it out, installed the oil filter and dumped 3.5 qts of oil in.
All the guides on SR20 install say that the motor mounts are compatible between JDM and US cars -- the JDM LH motor mount's bolt and 'bump' where in a slightly different position than the US one... I used both the US ones.
Anyhow, I ('we' actually, I had a friend help me with pull and install -- very important) installed the engine pretty quickly. The AC line on the firewall was interfering with the back of the engine so we yanked it. I also removed the AC pump and the AC radiator. After we tossed that stuff, the motor/trans slid right in.
I'm currently experiencing a small problem: the trans mount is very hard to line up with the body mount points. I'm afraid that the US motor mounts are pushing the drivetrain at a weird angle or the trans mount is bent from the accident... I'll be working on this today with hopes of getting the car running!
Things I learned:
-- When you are pulling the engine, there are 2 mount points on the firewall side of the lower intake.
-- Remove the DP before removing the engine.
-- Drain the gear oil out of the transmission beforehand. It makes a giant mess. However, it does make a great hair gel! Especially when it has dirt and grease from the garage floor in it...
-- The front clip weighs less than the engine/transmission. It likes to fall off the jackstands when you are removing these components!
Todd
Day 3: Monkey around with the brake pedal in the automatic donor car for like 2 hours. Read zilvia.net. Use grinder to cut pedal in half. I then spent another hour or so removing the clutch pedal/master cylinder from the clip. I thought I could get away with a ghetto approach on drilling the master cylinder hole in the donor car. Wrong. Ran out to get 1 3/8" hole saw. I used a 3/8" bit to drill the bolt holes for the MC.
I also removed the intercooler -- again, fairly straightforward. 4 or 5 12mm bolts and it's out. Remember to use all the brackets from the clip... I lodged more non-safety glass into my skin (elbow).
Day 4: Install intercooler into donor car. Disconnected all hoses/all wires/hard-line/etc from the clip. Also, pulled the mangled radiator out of the clip. Ready to remove the engine...
Day 5: Remove/Install engine day.
The RH motor mount was broken from the accident and the LH nut was stripped so I removed the mount from the top. I was feeling lazy, so I decided to leave the downpipe on the engine -- this proved to be a big PITA. When I was installing the engine, I finally took it off. So, remember to remove the downpipe before pulling the engine.
The pull took a little longer than usual because the clip was so bent. The x-member was bent a little bit so the trans got hung up on it a few times.
While I had the engine out, I re-arranged the heater hoses, removed the AIV shite and the lower turbo heat shield. The AIV hard line was pretty rusted on. Solution: lots of PB blaster and some heat. I also removed the oil pan and banged it out, installed the oil filter and dumped 3.5 qts of oil in.
All the guides on SR20 install say that the motor mounts are compatible between JDM and US cars -- the JDM LH motor mount's bolt and 'bump' where in a slightly different position than the US one... I used both the US ones.
Anyhow, I ('we' actually, I had a friend help me with pull and install -- very important) installed the engine pretty quickly. The AC line on the firewall was interfering with the back of the engine so we yanked it. I also removed the AC pump and the AC radiator. After we tossed that stuff, the motor/trans slid right in.
I'm currently experiencing a small problem: the trans mount is very hard to line up with the body mount points. I'm afraid that the US motor mounts are pushing the drivetrain at a weird angle or the trans mount is bent from the accident... I'll be working on this today with hopes of getting the car running!
Things I learned:
-- When you are pulling the engine, there are 2 mount points on the firewall side of the lower intake.
-- Remove the DP before removing the engine.
-- Drain the gear oil out of the transmission beforehand. It makes a giant mess. However, it does make a great hair gel! Especially when it has dirt and grease from the garage floor in it...
-- The front clip weighs less than the engine/transmission. It likes to fall off the jackstands when you are removing these components!
Todd