Installed Koyorad N-Flow on SR20DET, still running hot

[Edyz7s]

So I just installed my Koyorad N-Flow on my sr20det, I was expecting for the new radiator to cool everything down but instead it still running hot :confused:
Basically it still running the same temperature as if I had my stock radiator on. I flushed the radiator, switched on the heater to let the air out which alot of bubbles came out, and filled it to the top with coolant in the radiator. I took the thermostat off awhile back, so I know that's not the problem. No leaks anywhere in site. Wtf is up with the heat? :ugh:

[e1_griego]

How are you determining that it's running hot?

Actual gauge?

[NISR20MO]

So I just installed my Koyorad N-Flow on my sr20det, I was expecting for the new radiator to cool everything down but instead it still running hot :confused:
Basically it still running the same temperature as if I had my stock radiator on. I flushed the radiator, switched on the heater to let the air out which alot of bubbles came out, and filled it to the top with coolant in the radiator. I took the thermostat off awhile back, so I know that's not the problem. No leaks anywhere in site. Wtf is up with the heat? :ugh:

Your thermostat is what determines the temperature your engine runs at. If you took the thermostat out, you are positive it is well bled, and you are still overheating then you have another problem. The temperature rating of your thermostat determines when it opens to cycle hot coolant out and cool coolant in. Your radiator upgrade provides more fluid volume which will take longer to over-heat due to having more fluid volume and thus more thermal mass. The triple pass arrangement ensures the coolant gets better/more exposure to the tubes as the cooling air is moving through the fins and you should have cooler coolant going into the engine. The car should run at the same temperature however. If it is still overheating you haven't fixed the causal problem.

I hope you also upgraded the radiator cap or at least replaced it. If it doesn't hold pressure, you will always boil coolant and overheat.

[Edyz7s]

How are you determining that it's running hot?

Actual gauge?

The stock temp gauge, yeah it's not as accurate as an aftermarket but it does work, gauge would mark at almost 1/2 after a drive with some boost here and there, motor would be hot as hell and radiator too. Seems like there was no point on change radiator if it's not gonna keep my motor cool :-/

[Edyz7s]

Your thermostat is what determines the temperature your engine runs at. If you took the thermostat out, you are positive it is well bled, and you are still overheating then you have another problem. The temperature rating of your thermostat determines when it opens to cycle hot coolant out and cool coolant in. Your radiator upgrade provides more fluid volume which will take longer to over-heat due to having more fluid volume and thus more thermal mass. The triple pass arrangement ensures the coolant gets better/more exposure to the tubes as the cooling air is moving through the fins and you should have cooler coolant going into the engine. The car should run at the same temperature however. If it is still overheating you haven't fixed the causal problem.

I hope you also upgraded the radiator cap or at least replaced it. If it doesn't hold pressure, you will always boil coolant and overheat.

It's not overheating, trying to prevent that from starting, but just getting really hot. Had to get a new radiator cap from autozone and use the 300zx rad cap which is rated at 1.1

[taeisbeast]

I for sure would definitely not go by the stock gauge. Those things are really faulty.

But you should see a nice decrease in the overall coolant situation. Not to sure why you arent now, but for sure, if not the thermostat, not the new radiator, then by all means shoot for a nice aftermarket water gauge.

[cotbu]

Get a thermostat and check on the fan assembly. If a clutch fan is present make sure it's properly shrouded. Electric fans make sure they are functioning correctly.
Do you have anything between the radiator and free air or between the fans and radiator? Have you done a hydrocarbon test, or leak down?
Do you know if the headgasket is blown?

Forget all that if you just wanted the temp to be lower by installing a radiator!

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[Edyz7s]

I for sure would definitely not go by the stock gauge. Those things are really faulty.

But you should see a nice decrease in the overall coolant situation. Not to sure why you arent now, but for sure, if not the thermostat, not the new radiator, then by all means shoot for a nice aftermarket water gauge.

Yeah drove my car twice since i installed my new radiator, have seen a decrease in coolant but not alot. And yeah no leaks, no puddles under the 240. Planning to get aftermarket water gauge in the future

[Edyz7s]

Get a thermostat and check on the fan assembly. If a clutch fan is present make sure it's properly shrouded. Electric fans make sure they are functioning correctly.
Do you have anything between the radiator and free air or between the fans and radiator? Have you done a hydrocarbon test, or leak down?
Do you know if the headgasket is blown?

Forget all that if you just wanted the temp to be lower by installing a radiator!

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

Planning to install my thermostat later when its cool, still works just took it off. It's hot out here in Cali still, don't want the thermo to cycle the coolant yet. Still have stock clutch fan, its running well, not hitting the shroud. Nothing is preventing from free air flowing through. Have not done any test, and for my headgasket, hopefully its not blown. Had it overheat once when I had coolant leak but I already fixed that. Not sure how to check if my headgasket is good

[Croustibat]

compression test can help you diagnose that, or there is a reactive that changes color with carbon. Take some of your coolant and put some on that.

also put that thermo back in, let it do its job, and get a proper gauge. OEM one is not linear at all.

If you removed the undertray and/or slammed the car, hot air has nowhere to go, so you could install a 20" thick radiator with a massively flowing fan, it would not matter.

Otherwise the usual reasons these engine overheat is when timing is retarded and/or fuel delivery is bad.

You may have all these problems, so instead of trying to fix the consequences, address the problems.

[Edyz7s]

^^ Really hope i don't have my headgasket blown, but i will check that out. And nah my car is not slammed, just somewhat low but clear bumps like nothing lol.
Also i started noticing that ive been loosing coolant even though i would top if off with coolant in the radiator and resevor. Still no signs of leaks or puddles underneath. Is my coolant getting evaporated by the heat or what? What would cause this? Headgasket?

Honestly, i did not start having these new problems when I installed the koyorad :bash:

[Croustibat]

Coolant cannot evaporate if it stays in the cooling system. If it goes lower, it means it gets burned in cylinders or in the turbo, or there is a crack somewhere... or you got a leaking hose somewhere.

Check your hoses clamps too. I thought i had a HG at some point, turned out i had a leaking hidden hose clamp.

[jr_ss]

Another quick way to see if you are burning coolant is; you pull your plugs and look in the cylinder. The spark plug that is shiny will probably resemble the cylinder it came out of. This would indicate a headgasket failure as well. You're basically steam cleaning that cylinder so it'll appear cleaner than the others.