Not starting after removing both guides.

[vegita319]

My car doesn't start after removing both guides. I have the fsm and the only problem is, i don't know how to turn the rotor to set it at spark 1. Do i have to take the whole cover off and take the distributor off? I tried to yank the distributor out, but it wont come out either. so i have no idea how to turn the damn rotor to set it at spark 1. BTW, i also have pistion 1 completely in the up postion. Im guessing thats wat tdc is cuz i have no idea how to set the piston at tdc except in the very top position. So yeah, can someone please help me out Thanks. I did all the same tests as the original thread poster and same results. This is pretty much the same problem as the one that nissan noob posted about. heres the link to that thread: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=54678 . I also did the same tests as he did. I've come to timing as well. Thanks!

[vegita319]

ok, so i figured how to turn the rotor. The only problem is, i set the rotor at the 1 postion finally. I tried to crank it and it still won't start. The rotor is at 1, however the pistion of the crank is not at tdc, could something have happened, i always thought that if the crank was at tdc, the rotor would be exactly at 1 too. Man im so stumped. id appreciate any help. If they are both not at 1 and tdc, could that be a problem? Thanks.

[vegita319]

can anyone please help me? Im really desperate as this is my only car and i can't take the day off tomorrow of work. Thanks again.

[Kid Zelda]

Ok, real quick

Make sure you're at top dead center, with the piston #1 at the top and the tdc (yellow) mark the crank pully is align with the timing pin/pointer.

Point the rotor in the dist' at #1 plug wire.

Disconnect the TPS ( throttle position sensor) connector
Grab a timing light, and set timing to 20 deg* btdc ( its the last white mark on the crank pully)

You may need to adjust idle, it should be @ 650 rpm. If not, adjust via idle screw on intake manifold.

Now you can plug the TPS, idle will go up 50-100 rpms

[vegita319]

ok, i got the pulley to align with the tdc aligner or marker and i finally got rotor exactly aligned with the #1 of the cap. It cranks and it still doesn't start. BTW, i just bought new spark plugs, cap and rotor. WHen u say pistion is aligned at the top, how would i checked that. I tried sitcking a screwdriver in the hole of piston 1 and it was completely at the top if thats wat u mean. OK for tps, is that the 3 wire plug, or the 8 wire or something liek that plug? Thanks.

[vegita319]

ok i just tried to disconnect the tps and aligned everything at tdc. Still no go.. Now i noticed that my oil is missing. liek maybe its leaking into the spark plug chamber or something like that now. when i take off my oil cap, i can smell fuel in there. after cranking it, smoke comes out from there. Did i blow my engine or something? I did a compression test with the engine dead cold like that and it was 160 all across. So i know my head gasket is still in tact. Anyone have any other suggestions? I might try to get new spark plug wires too just to see if that helps. I somehow suspecting that my missing oil, fuel smell in oil crankcase, and smoke coming out of there is a serious problem. Can someone please help me? Im liek in desperate need. If someone is in the long beach, can help me and know exactly wat it is, you can call me at (562) 822-6360 too. I need this car up and running. Thanks. if anyone can help me.

[vegita319]

Bump, anyone please help me?

[projectRDM]

It's not rocket science.

Set the crank to TDC on cylinder #1, line up the distributor and go.

If you're having trouble verifying TDC, pull the #1 plug out, stop turning the crank when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder. Use a flashlight or stick a screwdriver in the hole to make sure you're right at TDC. You might be 180 degrees off.

[vegita319]

Yeah, i did all that already and aligning the tdc and distributor, it still wont start. The car does spark in all the wires, except wire 1 is a little weaker than the rest but it still sparks. everything is at tdc, car cranks, turns, sparks but doesn't start. So now im goofed. I don't want to take to a mechanic which would ruin the whole point of working on my car myself and learning.

[orion::S14]

Timing is a bitch to get dead on sometimes. Keep trying.

Have someone else try to start it, and rotate the dis fully each way. If that doesn't get you close, then pull the dis, rotate one tooth counterclockwise, and try again. If that's not it, rotate one tooth clockwise and try it again.

If you're doing this correctly at all, you're a tooth off at best.

Good luck - Brian

[aznpoopy]

Timing is a bitch to get dead on sometimes. Keep trying.

Have someone else try to start it, and rotate the dis fully each way. If that doesn't get you close, then pull the dis, rotate one tooth counterclockwise, and try again. If that's not it, rotate one tooth clockwise and try it again.

If you're doing this correctly at all, you're a tooth off at best.

Good luck - Brian

thats basically how i got my car started after i fooked up my timing... remember to mark it next time you pull it out and put it back in the exact way you took it out, rotor and all.

i forgot to mark it myself; and ended up guestimating it. after a few tries, it started but it wouldn't idle smooth and i couldn't turn the dist enough to get it smooth. so i took it out and put it back in a few teeth back, and i had enough room to adjust.

maybe i was really lucky; but i don't think its THAT finicky to get it started as long as you're close to the proper position.

[vegita319]

could it be that theres alot of fuel in there lying around. and wat about the fuel coming of the oil crankcase, could the smoke coming from there have anything to do with it and oil disappearing? Thanks in advance.

[aznpoopy]

i dont really understand what you are saying... but how many times did you try to crank it over? i suppose the engine could be flooded but i never heard of that happening on a 240sx before.

by oil dissappearing are you saying you are losing oil? its leaking out?

[ryan hagen]

usally when you put the dist back in it roatates over 1-2 teeth to mesh up. so youll have to offset it before you put it in , then when its in it mesh's and moves over to the right spot. the way i had to do it to realize i was 1-2 teeth off was to take a old cap and put a hole in the side of the rotor where number 1 is, then i could see where the rotor was, you off course need to put on a cap that doesnt have a hole in it later.

[vegita319]

I got it to work thanks. all i need to do was then the rotor 180 degrees more. Thanks to all those who helped me still. This is the main reason i read these forums all the time. Thanks again.