Best mounts for RB swap?

[Sills]

Hey small question but ive been researching a lot and sending messages to companies trying to figure out what the best option for my Rb swap would be as far as mounts. Id like to hear from people who have done it or know though.

Im doing an Rb20det swap into my S14 Kouki (Jdm Rhd) and was wondering what the best choice would be for mounting it. My budget as a highschool student isnt huge but id like to get it right.

Im very interested in the McKinney mount setup as it seems pretty simple to do on the stock crossmember however I am worried of clearance issues with the hood especially. Im fine with hitting in my firewall a bit. Does anyone know if the mckinney mounts will fit an rb20 under an s14 hood? I feel like id have a better chance with a front facing intake manifold but still unsure.

the R33 crossmember looks like a good option however more expensive and I know ill get a really hard time for saying this ("Why do an Rb swap when you dont know what youre doing") but im not sure I trust myself to install a new crossmember. Will the rb20 bolt directly to an R33 crossmember? Or would an R32 crossmember be better? Ive heard of "Syko" mounts usually used with the crossmember but am not sure of the purpose of these, as the Rb20 should already mate with its native R32 crossmember should it not?

Another thing is driveshaft fitment. Does anybody know if ill have any luck using my stock driveshaft with either of these setups? Thats a big concern to me as.. I know.. ("Why would you do an Rb swap if you cant afford to do it right")

Thank you for any positive insights.

[5280VertDET]

If you are in high school you should buy a motor that is newer or built professionally. This car will drain you after school earnings.

Work up the KA or find a built SR or RB. Dont buy an RB because they are cheap, the shit adds up quick.

Also, there is a million posts about this.

[Sills]

If you are in high school you should buy a motor that is newer or built professionally. This car will drain you after school earnings.

Work up the KA or find a built SR or RB. Dont buy an RB because they are cheap, the shit adds up quick.

Also, there is a million posts about this.

As prior mentioned its the jdm Silvia so no Ka. I already have the rb, its fully built with solid lifters head studs gaskets ect and ive seen it tuned on a dyno to 550hp @ 14 psi. I know its reliable and I know the previous owner- who gabe a deal which is the only reason I have the engine.

Ive read numerous threads and put many hours research into this and have yet to find answers to many of my questions. If you know of a thread that will answer them all justly please site it.

[thegr8one013]

http://forums.nicoclub.com/what-is-needed-to-swap-a-rb-into-a-240sx-faq-t185294.html

will fit with r32 crossmember and stock mounts.
will clear hood
will be able to use stock mt driveshaft

[thegr8one013]

you didnt even put seconds of research u liar.

i just searched and that was the first search on google that popped up

we are here to help eachother but dont even claim you searched when you didnt

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j204/thegr8one013/Untitled.png

[rawgarage]

Work up the KA or find a built SR or RB. Dont buy an RB because they are cheap, the shit adds up quick.

Also, there is a million posts about this.

Amen to that

[5280VertDET]

As prior mentioned its the jdm Silvia so no Ka. I already have the rb, its fully built with solid lifters head studs gaskets ect and ive seen it tuned on a dyno to 550hp @ 14 psi. I know its reliable and I know the previous owner- who gabe a deal which is the only reason I have the engine.

Ive read numerous threads and put many hours research into this and have yet to find answers to many of my questions. If you know of a thread that will answer them all justly please site it.

So it has an SR? Why not ask the previous owner how to mount it?

I don't think anyone with a 500HP motor thinks it reliable... But hey, have fun and don't be stupid.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/what-is-needed-to-swap-a-rb-into-a-240sx-faq-t185294.html

will fit with r32 crossmember and stock mounts.
will clear hood
will be able to use stock mt driveshaft

you didnt even put seconds of research u liar.

i just searched and that was the first search on google that popped up

we are here to help eachother but dont even claim you searched when you didnt


Come on man...
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l487/Northside777/IMG_3617.gif

[Sills]

you didnt even put seconds of research u liar.

i just searched and that was the first search on google that popped up

we are here to help eachother but dont even claim you searched when you didnt

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j204/thegr8one013/Untitled.png

I appreciate this however I was familliar with that thread and many others. However they didnt answer any pf my real questions of the mckinney mounts, as id like to use them as it sounds simple but there isnt much info about fitment in the s14's. Sorry for the misunderstanding

[Sills]

So it has an SR? Why not ask the previous owner how to mount it?

I don't think anyone with a 500HP motor thinks it reliable... But hey, have fun and don't be stupid.


Come on man...
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l487/Northside777/IMG_3617.gif

I imported it so I dont know the previous owner! Its still got the stock Sr20.
I trust the engine, the guy who built it made a 700hp civic daily driver ha.
Another unanswered question is if its possible to bolt an engine to its r chassis crossmember why do some people use the "Syko" mount kit with the swapped crossmember?

[EnemyS15]

You are asking some basic ass questions to the Rb world. You have no business dealing with this motor when you do not know, nor can research the answers you need, on your own.

Google syko mounts and read the benefits to using that mount.

[Sills]

You are asking some basic ass questions to the Rb world. You have no business dealing with this motor when you do not know, nor can research the answers you need, on your own.

Google syko mounts and read the benefits to using that mount.

Predicatable answer as stated before. Give me a break, im not even 18 yet most people here have probably been dealing with these cars since before I was born. Instead of being a dick about it why not help me as im trying to get into this and learn from it. Instead of telling me to google things ive already searched how about citating something useful if its that simple.

Also heres something helpful cited for you. Even a highschoool student knows better. - http://www.differencebetween.net/technology/industrial/difference-between-engine-and-motor/

[EnemyS15]

could give 2 shits between engine and motor......
I am not the one with a "550 HP" motor and not know dick about the swap.


Sell that MOTOR before you kill yourself or turn that 240 into another wasted pile of shit, you have no idea what you are doing and you have no business having a MOTOR like that.

[Sills]

could give 2 shits between engine and motor......
I am not the one with a "550 HP" motor and not know dick about the swap.


Sell that MOTOR before you kill yourself or turn that 240 into another wasted pile of shit, you have no idea what you are doing and you have no business having a MOTOR like that.

Nah, First off I dont think the tuning will make the swap any harder at all. Also I do have a good driving record and have kept my car together at the track before so im not too worried.

Worst case scenario will be me crashing it, But I only paid 1,200 for the car and 2,000 for the engine- my insurance would probably write it off for more than I put it together for tbh.

[jr_ss]

Well there's the naïve part he was talking about. If you think you're going to get 3k for an S-chassis from the insurance agency, in what I can only assume is a mismatched body panel and dented car, you're clearly high. The cars aren't worth anything, not to mention it is a JDM(non-legal) car. Unless you've got a clean low mileage unmolested car and it's DOT/FED legal, you're up shits creek without a paddle.

The R33 member is by far the best option, but there are plenty of viable options to use. If you think you can swap a motor, but not a cross member, something is wrong. As stated research is your best friend. You seem a bit smarter than the usual "new guy" trial and error or read, no one here will give hand outs.

Throw the rb20 in the trash too. A waste of a motor swap unless you're shooting for a period correct car, which, is not the case. Sell it off and get the 25.

[Sills]

Well there's the naïve part he was talking about. If you think you're going to get 3k for an S-chassis from the insurance agency, in what I can only assume is a mismatched body panel and dented car, you're clearly high. The cars aren't worth anything, not to mention it is a JDM(non-legal) car. Unless you've got a clean low mileage unmolested car and it's DOT/FED legal, you're up shits creek without a paddle.

The R33 member is by far the best option, but there are plenty of viable options to use. If you think you can swap a motor, but not a cross member, something is wrong. As stated research is your best friend. You seem a bit smarter than the usual "new guy" trial and error or read, no one here will give hand outs.

Throw the rb20 in the trash too. A waste of a motor swap unless you're shooting for a period correct car, which, is not the case. Sell it off and get the 25.


To be fair you have never seen my car. Its actually in pretty good condition and only has 80,000km. Im also located in Canada so my S14 is completely compliant and legal, plated and insured. I was originally going to get a 25 but this 20 came up, with more horsepower and slightly cheaper, and the 20's have a much stronger aftermarket.

[va240dude]

Syko mounts are the best in my opinion. I love them on my RB25. Good balance for street and track.

[kruked]

Just trolling.

I was curious as to how the OP acquired a RHD s14 for pennies. Now it makes sense.

[Sills]

Just trolling.

I was curious as to how the OP acquired a RHD s14 for pennies. Now it makes sense.

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh632/Colman_Wourms/photo%203_zpsee4byhkw.jpg (http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/Colman_Wourms/media/photo%203_zpsee4byhkw.jpg.html)


Word.

[The Saint]

I won't flame you.
If you look at the stock output of a RB20 compared to a SR20 their almost the same.
There is substantial aftermarket built up for the SR20 motor and high end builds pushing 500hp (I am ignoring Top Fuel builds)
But you should also look at the dyno charts when offered. SR20 have a steep climb as they hit that high number.

RB's have a broader power curve which means that you can modulate the throttle better. I love the sound too.

I have driven in a 400 hp SR20 S13. Liked it!
If you have one already sitting your car; build it up.
If you must go RB- 25-26 only. leave the rb20 in the garage.

If you are driving around in a stock SR20 S13/S14 you have just scratched the surface of your experience. You have a car that can whop a stock mustang GT's ass
Just start with the basics:
Intake, down pipe, exhaust.
6 puck clutch.
Strut tower bar front and rear.
Better brake pads and braided lines.
Better tires.
When you are hanging it out there; you want it to not bite you in the ass.
Before you jump ship and swap out a good performance engine.
350whp can be found reliably.

Most of these guys in the USA, would give up a left nut for what you can get up in Canada.
Pistttt....... you don't know anyone who needs a left nut do you? I'll trade 1 for a S15 or R34 skyline.

[Sills]

I won't flame you.
If you look at the stock output of a RB20 compared to a SR20 their almost the same.
There is substantial aftermarket built up for the SR20 motor and high end builds pushing 500hp (I am ignoring Top Fuel builds)
But you should also look at the dyno charts when offered. SR20 have a steep climb as they hit that high number.

RB's have a broader power curve which means that you can modulate the throttle better. I love the sound too.

I have driven in a 400 hp SR20 S13. Liked it!
If you have one already sitting your car; build it up.
If you must go RB- 25-26 only. leave the rb20 in the garage.

If you are driving around in a stock SR20 S13/S14 you have just scratched the surface of your experience. You have a car that can whop a stock mustang GT's ass
Just start with the basics:
Intake, down pipe, exhaust.
6 puck clutch.
Strut tower bar front and rear.
Better brake pads and braided lines.
Better tires.
When you are hanging it out there; you want it to not bite you in the ass.
Before you jump ship and swap out a good performance engine.
350whp can be found reliably.

Most of these guys in the USA, would give up a left nut for what you can get up in Canada.
Pistttt....... you don't know anyone who needs a left nut do you? I'll trade 1 for a S15 or R34 skyline.

Thank you for the reply! Very well written and and I appreciate it.
At this point ive already got the rb20 in the car (After a lot of swearing and bloodshed). When I was looking for an engine a stock sr20det was available in my area for 1400 and this built rb20det with dyno graphs for 500+ was only 600$ more. I figured it would be fun to put an rb in my car to replace to replace the Sr20De. Im looking forward to getting the wiring done so I can bring it on the road, one thing about the Rb20's is that they can rev so high.

I might like it, I might not. It is going to be my first turbo engine so im almost sure ill love it either way. Im in highschool and ive worked very hard for everything I have on the car and at the end of the day its not about the absolute best performance for me, I just want to drive and have some fun haha.

[Smoothshifts]

ignore the guys who care so much to tell you to search it. I'm sure you did and didn't find everything you wanted. I just bought an rb20det also with the transmission for just 600. im building this one up and then later gonna drop it in a 240 too. I'll see what you use to drop yours in so it will help me when I drop mine in!

[Sills]

ignord the guys who car so much to tell you to search it. I'm sure you did and didn't find everything you wanted. I just bought an rb20det also with the transmission for just 600. im building this one up and then later gonna drop it in a 240 too. I'll see what you use to drop yours in so it will help me when I drop mine in!

When I dropped mine in my S14 (Its done now) I just used the R32 crossmember subframe. It was pretty easy to get the subframe in but dropping the engine in was hard. If you plan on dropping it in through the top youll need to strap the engine up so its on a heavy incline on the hoist. We put someone to guide the crane and 2 people under the car to fuide the heavy transmission through. The crank pulley kept hitting the rad area however with enough persistance and manipulating the angle of the engine bay by jacking the front of the car it was possible to get the engine in. Very close clearance with the hood on my S14 kouki but it just barely makes it. Shifter sits maybe 2cm forward of where my sr one did. With a shoft shifter still plenty of room to shift comfortably. Stock S14 Sr20 driveshaft lined up and worked aswell. Pm me any questions if you have, Id love to help anyone out with their swaps if I can!

[Smoothshifts]

Was it really that hard to slide it in? What if you did the transmission and engine in one by one? Did you do yours while they were connected?

[Sills]

Was it really that hard to slide it in? What if you did the transmission and engine in one by one? Did you do yours while they were connected?

It wasnt easy by any means. Mine is rhd so there was no exhaust clearance issues and it cleared the master cylinder fine too. I know the rb25 trans is bigger so I wouldnt try to drop one in with the trans attached, I hit in the firewall by the starter about 1 inch for good measure and it seems it would not have fit if I didnt. You have to put the strap far forward on the engine so it hangs on a heavy angle with the trans facing down. Youll want a good crane that can lift fairly high too. Like I said before id get two people to go under the car to guide the trans as it needs to be "lifted" once its past the crossmember. We did it with just me under the car and it was pretty tough, took a lot of time and effort and my arms were insanely sore for days lmao. It took a lot of persistance. A good prying tool would be helpful too, We used one to finish forcing the engine into the crossmember mounts. Having a jack under the car to set the trans on is a good idea too incase your arms get tired.. Or else you could end up bending some metal lines behind the steering shaft as I did... :c also use a jack on the front of the car to manipulate the angle of the car to the trans.