whats easier?q45 pr z rear brakes?

[devonkyle77]

i cant find a 300zx ebrake cable at any junk yards in my area, and i wanted to find that before i bought 300zx rear brakes...any advice on this? is one easier than the other? does the q45 setup need the z ebrake cable as well?

[nlzmo400r]

i believe the q45 needs the q45 ebrake cables to work. The rear brakes, however, will work without ebrake cables (you could just park it and leave it in gear)

[wootwoot]

i read that the ebrake cable from the 240 works on the q calipers.

[Dweezil]

Check e-bay for the z32 rear upright. the Q45 uses a parking brake system similer to the 240sx stock setup.

[importnut]

I haven't had a chance to really look at Q45 brakes. I know the fronts are 2 piston slider calipers. I'm not familiar with the rears. In fact, if the rears aren't that much bigger, you may be wasting your time doing the upgrade. You need to take a look at the caliper and brake setup. If the Q uses a sliding caliper with the e-brake built in, you may be able to use the 240 cables to insure that they are the right length. The problem with Z cables, is that they are too short, and they are designed to operate drum brakes.

-alex s.

[orion::S14]

^^^ Incorrect info up there...

Q45 rear brakes are quite similar to the Z32 rear brakes, and require the same mods as Z32 rears do...they have the same drum style e-brake.

Q45 subframe and R230 diff is the same as Z32 TT as well...FYI.

- Brian

[JerkFaceJason]

why may I ask are you going to all this trouble to upgrade your rear brakes? considering the rears do the least braking power id say if you were worried about it you should just get new rotors.

The fronts are where it counts.

[wootwoot]

actually you kinda want to upgrade the front AND back. you know, to make them match and all. ever hear of brake bias?

[nlzmo400r]

i can vouch for that, i just installed my z32 front brakes w/ metal pads and slotted/CD rotors, and my rears are completely stock (havent even installed my stainles steel lines yet) and when i smash the brakes at about 6o or so, the back gets squirmy and feels like its going to come off of the ground

[jy116]

Yeah, I think using the Z32 M/C is best if swapping all 4 corners... just from an intuitive position, no experience yet.

By the way, does it even matter if the rear uprights are off a N/A vs TT 300z? I read the importnut site... he didnt use the rear uprights from a z32... no info. Sport Compact's Project Silvia used z32 uprights, but no specifics if the splines are bigger/smaller on NA/TT z32 rear uprights...

[importnut]

Yeah, I think using the Z32 M/C is best if swapping all 4 corners... just from an intuitive position, no experience yet.

By the way, does it even matter if the rear uprights are off a N/A vs TT 300z? I read the importnut site... he didn't use the rear uprights from a z32... no info. Sport Compact's Project Silvia used z32 uprights, but no specifics if the splines are bigger/smaller on NA/TT z32 rear uprights...

I can tell you from personal experience that the pedal feels very mushy without the upgrade. It's totally livable if you aren't used to a strong pedal. You almost have to "pre-brake" before you start to get some feedback.

The uprights have to be the same. The difference between turbo and non turbo are in the hubs. The "stud" for the e-brake is part of the hub on the turbo whereas the non-turbo has a hub like the 240.

As for "my" (importnut) site, I didn't use the Z32 uprights simply because they require a different shock. I plan on swapping in the Z32 uprights when I upgrade the suspension with shocks that have Z32 lower shock mounts on 240 shocks. Trust me, I wanted to use them, once I combined the Z32 parts with the 240's upright, it weight A LOT!!

Just to be clear, you keep referring to the upright as having spines...the upright has nothing to do with the bearing or hub or splines other than an attachment point. The hub attaches to the upright then to the suspension. You can swap turbo and non turbo part between the uprights.

Hopefully, that makes sense!

As for upgrading the rears it goes for a nice round package. Stop tech's philosophy is to upgrade the front brakes to work along with stock rear brakes. Why add more unsprung weight to the back of the car when the rears do around 20-30% of the stopping? Using their thought, if you wanted to get Stop Tech's 300ZX big brake upgrade, it would be best to have the Z32 MC as well as the Z32 rear hardware.

If the rear feels squirrelly when you stomp on the brakes, it has nothing to do with the brakes, but everything to do with your suspension and tires!

-Alex S.

[crzycav86]

Yeah, I think using the Z32 M/C is best if swapping all 4 corners... just from an intuitive position, no experience yet.

By the way, does it even matter if the rear uprights are off a N/A vs TT 300z? I read the importnut site... he didnt use the rear uprights from a z32... no info. Sport Compact's Project Silvia used z32 uprights, but no specifics if the splines are bigger/smaller on NA/TT z32 rear uprights...

I have all 4 z-calipers, and stock (s13) master cylinder. At first the pedal felt very mushy, then I bled the abs system, and it only felt marginally mushier than stock. It's very bearable IMO.

And I also have z uprights(NA) on my car. It swaps right in with the exception of a conical bushing that sits on top of the lower ball joint dust cover, and fork-type shock mounts. I even stayed 4-lug when doing this swap...