sr20 running like complete ass

[Options13]

I'm basically trying to finish the swap in my koguchi hatch and i can't seem to find the damn problem!!!

So heres whats going on..

My setup is
Re-Built Stock SR20DET
Greddy intake manifold
BC titanium retainers/valvesprings
Ported Head
Megan Exhaust Manifold

and everything else is completely stock. (E5 ECU, Stock injectors, Stock Maf)

The car fires right up, and idles RICH as hell, black smoke and all.. It sounds like its missing/sputtering/shaking. The car does indeed rev over 2500rpms, so i don't think its a maf issue, i also tested 3 other mafs and it runs the same.. I tested another ECU and Ignitor, and still runs the same.

I'm pretty sure my timing is set right, i followed the procedure on FRsport and i was very meticulous when i did the timing.

One thing i should also mention is my TACH isn't seeing an RPM signal, and my water temp is saying its MAXED out right off the bat.

I tested the ECU for codes and got code 55..

At this point i don't know if its the harness, CTS, CAS, or some other bull shit.. i'm getting really fed up with this car.. Anyone have any ideas..?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7636/16553591319_92308395d7.jpg

[Dboyizmlg]

What ecu you running? Stock or tuned ecu?

Injectors, and MAF?

[Options13]

Stock e5 ECU, and my setup is stock including the injectors and maf.

[e1_griego]

Bad cts won't throw a code. Is the o2 hooked up?

FPR have vacuum to it?

[Options13]

yeah o2 is hooked up, along with 43psi fuel pressure with vacc plugged in

[e1_griego]

Should be 37 with vac.

[cbeuglas]

Sounds like a bad harness or fried ecu

[matthew.antoniuk]

I'd say your problem is in the ECU


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[e1_griego]

I tested another ECU and Ignitor, and still runs the same.

He's already tried another ECU.

It's either wiring or something like the CTS.

[jdm-specs]

Have u done a compression and leak down? I know it's rebuilt but if it's a constant misfire ur a/f will read rich

The gauge in the cluster and ecu uses two different sensors to read coolant temp...having ecu talk and consult would help at this point...plus a noid light at injector would help to see if it's being held open either lead to harness or ecu issue...even if coolant temp was the issue ur motor shouldn't misfire when it think it's cold or hot all the time

[ultimateirving]

CTS is cheap and easy to replace, not a bad idea if the engine is rebuilt toss in a new sensor and never worry again. This definitely sounds like a misfire or over-fueling issue. Prior to rebuild how did the engine run? what broke to require rebuild?
injector being stuck/leaky could cause super rich.
What do plugs look like, and are the cylinders all wet?

[RalliartRsX]

Tach signal and CTS sounds like wiring and/or bad sensor. I would check your harness with a DMM to make sure.

Do have a wideband on this thing??

[jedi03]

Possible bad coils...friends car acted similar...

[ultimateirving]

Possible bad coils...friends car acted similar...

Agreed. That's a major cause of misfire

[sean.arnold9012]

u said your pretty sure you did the timing right.
pretty sure isnt positive. 0 out your timing and make sure cylinder 1 is at the top of the stroke. its a common mistake to to do it backwards, ive done it myself.
also check timing marks on the cam gears.

if you having alot of wierd signals as well. there is def something wrong with the wiring.
did you do the wiring harness yourself or did you buy a premade one from a place like specialtywiring.com.

also if your running high flow intake manifolds, with built up cylinder heads you are going to need some ecu tunning to get full benefits from the engine build.

[Kingtal0n]

boost leak

because it goes

maf voltage -> ecu -> Injector on-time

After a good compression test, order of likeliness:
boost leak
injector leak
maf/ecu
wrong injector
fuel pressure incredibly high
operator error (not truly running rich / mistaken symptom)

more input that would be highly useful in diagnosing is a wideband reading. (boost leak test): Pressure everything from the compressor inlet all the way back through the engine to 15+psi to find your additional voltage, if all hardware is good / working right.

[godsmack]

timing 180 out. also check and make sure alt is hooked up properly.

[Options13]

if the timing was 180 out, would the car even start?

UPDATE

I found that the gas was orange for some reason so i dropped the gas tank and going to put fresh gas in there..

Also i swapped out my injectors and coil packs and going to give it a whirl again today.

If thats not it i'm going to test another wire harness, then if that don't work try a different CAS and re-set it.. But i didn't know it was possible to set it out 180 and for it to still run?

Let me know!

Thanks!

[lucas240sx]

Rpm gauge
Try running the black ground wire that goes from engine harness to dash plug back to a black ground wire coming from the ecu
This was my problem