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View Full Version : sr20det main stud re-torquing


wurley
03-22-2015, 12:25 PM
When I was installing my upper oil pan I ran into a problem with it hitting my arp main studs

The shop had installed them wrong
I found the install instructions from arp and correct them

http://i.imgur.com/CTzjM5xl.jpg

how they were
corrected

So my question is: what is the process of re-torquing?
I followed fsm procedure to release the torque

Do I follow the fsm and use the angle torquing tool? I have one already.
Or can I just torque them in equal steps

TheRealSy90
03-23-2015, 09:48 AM
Follow the FSM sequence, with the ARP recommended torque value.

wurley
03-23-2015, 12:23 PM
Ok, So I'll use the angle wrench?

TheRealSy90
03-23-2015, 12:55 PM
I'd highly recommend a real torque wrench over an old school angle wrench. Never used one of those myself.

wurley
03-23-2015, 01:35 PM
looks like thats what the fsm calls for

http://i.imgur.com/hp3eNh2l.jpg

TheRealSy90
03-23-2015, 02:21 PM
Welp I guess that's the way to go! News to me.

cotbu
03-23-2015, 03:54 PM
i don't know which studs you have, but you always use the manufacturers torque specs unless the community proves them too high or low.

The steps for bringing up the torque is very important.
if the block hasn't been align honed, i do not use arp torque specs either, but....
Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 80ft lbs
with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
FOOTNOTE:
When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after
installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed
using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
202-5402.pdf (http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-5402.pdf)

torque wrench

wurley
03-23-2015, 04:16 PM
ok, so just torque in three equal steps?
I was thinking this since the crank hasn't been touched since the torque was released.

just don't want to mess anything up since this job is somewhat out of my comfort zone,
thanks

TheRealSy90
03-23-2015, 04:41 PM
The thing is, installing the arp studs will put a different load and torque on the block compared to the oem hardware, which could alter the alignment of the block and main bearings themselves. Which is why it's recommended to have the block mains align-honed/bored with the new arp hardware installed. But i'm sure tons of people have gotten away with doing ARP hardware without doing that, especially if the block is in good condition. If it was me i'd definitley have it checked for straightness after installing them though.

cotbu
03-23-2015, 05:24 PM
I would ask the shop what they torqued the studs to originally, actually! I hope it wasn't 80ft, though!

Not saying anything has been damaged, but, if it was 80ft I would just have it align honed. I've done 60-65ftlbs just replacing the oem hardware with arp studs.

From a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

wurley
03-23-2015, 05:27 PM
I think they may have already did that.

http://i.imgur.com/nifUbo9l.jpg

This maybe?

I guess I could take it back in. That would involving ripping all my progress back apart though

cotbu
03-23-2015, 06:06 PM
Just ask? But I think so too.

From a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!