Ka24e cranks but not start. Ecu code 13

[Swagner]

Hello everyone I am having trouble getting my car to start up and run. This problem happened out of nowhere, went to start my car and nothing, just cranks over. Right now it just wants to crank over and barely starts then continue back to cranking over. When the car does start up it idles very low and eventually stalls. The engine is a stock ka24e with 261,xxx miles. Here is a video of the problem http://youtu.be/84-9vnzuSV8

I replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Tested all 4 plugs with a spark tester and each one is getting good spark.

Fuel pump is working, checked it with a fuel pressure tester and got around 48-50psi when primed. Fuel filter has been replaced. All injectors are getting voltage, tested with a noid light. Checked the resistance in all 4 injectors and those checked out ok.

Compression is good, about 170-175psi, checked the timing with a timing light and it looks to be in spec.

I checked the codes on the ecu and it had a code 13 (coolant temperature sensor). I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and nothing happened. I checked the wires from the ecu harness to the coolant temp sensor harness and the wires are good. With the car in the on position the sensor is only seeing .295 volts.

I am at a complete loss and have tried everything I can think of to get the car to stay running. Any ideas what could cause this, bad ecu?

[Rayne]

ka24development.com: ecu_codes (http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html)

You can always go to a local auto parts store and they will tell you what the code means.

[The Inflicted]

I checked the codes on the ecu and it had a code 13 (coolant temperature sensor). I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and nothing happened.

You're sure you replaced the coolant temperate sensor and not the temperature gauge plug?
Because a bad coolant temperature sensor would cause exactly the kind of symptoms you're describing.

Try pulling the fuse for the fuel pump (in the kick panel by the driver's door) and see if it will idle properly.

[Swagner]

Yes I am positive I have replaced the correct sensor. The one I replaced was on the intake manifold with 2 wires going to it. The factory service manual calls it a Engine temperature sensor.

[The Inflicted]

Yes I am positive I have replaced the correct sensor. The one I replaced was on the intake manifold with 2 wires going to it. The factory service manual calls it a Engine temperature sensor.

Yep, that's the one.
Sorry that didn't clear things up for you. I had the exact same problems you had last week, tried nearly the same fixes, and that sensor was what finally solved the problems.

When you try to start the car and it refuses, have you immediately pulled and checked a plug? Are they wet with gas?

[Swagner]

I have pulled the plugs a couple of times and I do remember #1 plug was wet but I don't think all 4 plugs were wet. I will have to go check again. I am thinking the problem with my car is not the physical sensor itself but the sensor not getting the required volts it needs to be able to function properly.

[The Inflicted]

Try pulling that fuel pump fuse as well and see if it will start.

[Swagner]

I tried pulling the fuse pump and the results stayed the same. I'm going to test/clean my IAC next and see if that helps.

[The Inflicted]

I tried pulling the fuse pump and the results stayed the same. I'm going to test/clean my IAC next and see if that helps.

You can try that, but the IAC normally does not begin acting until the car warms up to normal operating temperature, and in the meantime you can manually hold the throttle open with the throttle body or gas pedal. In theory, it should have no effect on whether the engine can start from cold.

Did you check to see if there was wet gas on the plugs? What's their general appearance? Your trouble code makes me immediately suspect that flooding is the underlying cause of the inability to start, but verifying that flooding is the issue will narrow down your next move a bit.

One final thought- is there any reason to suspect that your ground might be bad? When you've tested each plug for spark, were you grounding them out to the frame? Did that make any difference for the other 3?

[Driftwire]

Hold down the gas pedal while your cranking for like 10 seconds see if it struggles to start or finally kicks on. If so you have a leaking injector or something flooding or dumping fuel, Check o rings and injectors and replace plugs.

[Swagner]

Sorry for the late reply. Been real busy with school and has be ridiculously cold here to work in a garage with no heat. I checked my injectors to see if any were leaking and none were. Tried starting it again and it continued to only crank over. After that I checked my spark plugs and all 4 were wet with gas.

[671!S13dragon]

I am having the same problem, i have done everything the same as replacing spark units and injectors, my car runs with fuel pump of and with the injectors unplugged, because fuel is flooding engine, has anyone found somthing to check? Im beginning to think i need new ecu because i think somthing is telling the ecu to spray a load of fuel and keep shooting fuel.

[SidewaysS13ka]

Wish you were closer to PA. I just bought a consult cable to do laptop diagnostics and data logs that I'm itching to use.

[Swagner]

I never did figure out the problem. My guess was the ecu as well. I think after trying to start it so many times the fuel flooding the engine washed the cylinder walls clean and mixed with the oil and caused a bearing to spin. It eventually would stay running for maybe 30 seconds each time and developed a knocking noise after that. Now I'm in the process of swapping a duel cam in haha.

[671!S13dragon]

I just had another failed attempt of fixing the flooding engine issue, I put a new engine temp sensor because I overheated the engine when I broke the fan pully off. Ever since I swapped with a new injector I've been having the flooding engine problem. I might open my ecu up and see if it's all burnt up inside.