Sr20det issues!

[japslapsilvia]

Several issues.

Background,

Fresh rebuild on motor, new bearing, rings, re-hone of bores, cleaned pistons etc, Apexi 1.1 HG BC 264 cams, spring retainers, stock valves.

Car does NOT start and run, it starts and will partially run then die, once any throttle is applied it dies, and takes several trys to re-start. Also note it does smoke and very distinct smell of fuel, (ie burning eyes smoke).

On to the lifter issue, when i assembled the head i took several precautions with the lifters, as i have had lifter tick in the past, just not like this. SO i followed the FSM procedure, and did the process several times, they all ended up being solid no movement.

day 1- got the motor semi-started after several tries, then pulled V/C to confirm CAS. since it was in spec, we swapped for another in hopes that one was bad. tried to start and bam it ran, no issues, would respond to throttle etc. NO TICKING from lifters at all..


day 2- since it ran before it should start right up. Wrong, dam thing wont ever fire. started checking MAF TPS etc, all w/in spec. Changed TPS and MAF in hopes they were faulty, and i have several spare parts current at my disposal lol. well it got late and car is loud as fuck when it does start so called it a night.

day 3- decided to try and start with no change, fires off then dies w/in seconds, wont idle nothing, decided to check EVERYTHING again. So after spinning the motor over with the starter, (it still didnt start) i noticed a ticking from the VC area. Something like this TICK....5-6seconds later TICK and so on and so forth, so every 5-6 seconds there is an very audible TICK. after about 10 or so Ticks, it stops. well since im checking everything again, i pull the VC, turn the motor to TDC by hand, to check CAS, and here is the dam TICK again, sounds like #2 exhaust lifter. so i put my finger on the rocker and i can hear and feel the tick. Why didnt it tick when it was running, or after the motor shut off??

OK so here is what i have done so far.

Check MAF, voltage to maf good. (i did not check white wire as yet, will do so tomorrow as time allows)
TPS checked, voltage is .45 closed 4.8 WOT
CAS stabbed and re-stabbed. Motor at TDC #1 cam lobes facing out, pointer on yellow mark of crank pulley, and counted links between cam dots.
upon first successful start, it smokes, and its unburnt fuel, checked all injectors no leaks, pulled plugs, all black and covered with carbon, although they are NOT wet, just black as fuck. so i swapped them, car still wont start. and yes i am clearing the cylinders before i attempt to re-start.
Wiring, stock #62 ECU, harness has been tucked, i have checked and rechecked all connections, plug in ecu is fully seated.
i know i am getting fuel and spark, and air, thing is dam thing wont run, and now i start hearing tick from lifter WTF is going on with this dam thing??!?!?!:rant2::rant2::rant2::rant2::rant2:

any help is appreciated!

TIA

[Kingtal0n]

well, its a fresh rebuild, so my instinct is to tell you:

1. compression test
2. leakdown test
3. Spin the engine by Hand (use a tool by hand) feel for any funny business
4. look at the oil, do an oil change, check for odd particulate
5. boost leak test
6. audible valvetrain noise might be telling you something, stethoscope to pinpoint would help, did you have the guides done? Does it have brand new valves? Brand new springs? who installed the camshafts, and did they use the FSM proceedure? Torque spec is about 8~ ft.lbs, very common mistake to over-tighten. Also, you are aware that you can not use OEM springs with those camshafts... right...

7. since you are on the stock ecu/maf/injectors it should be fairly simple from this point to diagnose excess fuel. You probably found a massive air leak after the maf.

8. If the motor is on fresh rings, you needed to get it started right away and driving / lightly boosting. Excessive cranking, excessive fuel, will quickly ruin your ring's hopes of ever sealing up nicely.

[japslapsilvia]

1. did not do yet, will add to list and report back
2. same as above
3. done several time, no binding at all can feel compression stroke (when plugs are installs, as well as slight resistance when not installed)
4. done, not foreign matter, odd color, or smell, still looks fresh. keep in mind motor probably ran on it own a total of 10 mins.
5. checked, did notice a loose connector that was fixed, no vac leaks, all new vac lines
6. i installed the cams straight up, according to FSM, also changed the cam cap bolts to studs (naprec brand, they are specific to SR20det and have to correct shoulder for the cam caps), yes new springs (BC, as well as their retainers), and re-used valves, although i did lap them to ensure a good seal. guides are original.
7. correct all stock components. no loose connectors or leaks after MAF.
8. correct def trying to get it running to help seal.

ETA forgot to mention, i am on a sard FPR, now since motor wont run i cant fully set to 43lbs with vac disconnected, and in all honestly im hoping this is the root of the issue, i am probably going to switch to stock to see if it helps and go from there. currently when it does run im seeing ~32-33 is pressure when it does run. but like i said it will only run for a few seconds at a time.

Thanks!

[pete240]

Did you try starting it with the maf unplugged? If its an air leak issue or maf issue you should at the very least be able to get it to run in limp mode long enough to set the FPR.

[Dillinja666]

I'm going to say massive vacuum leak.

[japslapsilvia]

Did you try starting it with the maf unplugged? If its an air leak issue or maf issue you should at the very least be able to get it to run in limp mode long enough to set the FPR.

No i tried to start it with the MAF disconnected, and it would start then die immediately, it would bounce between 200-300 rpm then die

I'm going to say massive vacuum leak.

i will add that to the list of things to do tonight.

Thanks!

[Kingtal0n]

No i tried to start it with the MAF disconnected, and it would start then die immediately, it would bounce between 200-300 rpm then die


This is a big problem. Your engine, if all stock, should run without the maf at idle.

You have a compression/fuel/spark problem (which is a global way of saying anything could be wrong at this point). You should have a wideband and a Fuel pressure gauge to assist diagnosis. How do the plugs look, Ill just hope you installed brand new NGK BKR7ES (iirc) plugs at factory .038" gap which is what you want right now.

I would do the compression test first, and pray you only see 60~ psi across the board, followed by Fuel pressure, again pray to see 20psi or something silly. Get the engine to idle with the maf disconnected first before proceeding any further (ignore the plumbing and turbo and all that for now). If compression comes back good, and fuel pressure comes back good, well lets just get to that point first and go from there.

Also, I do not know why you decided to go from cam cap bolts to studs, but this may play a role somehow in your problem or ultimate destination.

[japslapsilvia]

This is a big problem. Your engine, if all stock, should run without the maf at idle.

You have a compression/fuel/spark problem (which is a global way of saying anything could be wrong at this point). You should have a wideband and a Fuel pressure gauge to assist diagnosis. How do the plugs look, Ill just hope you installed brand new NGK BKR7ES (iirc) plugs at factory .038" gap which is what you want right now.

I would do the compression test first, and pray you only see 60~ psi across the board, followed by Fuel pressure, again pray to see 20psi or something silly. Get the engine to idle with the maf disconnected first before proceeding any further (ignore the plumbing and turbo and all that for now). If compression comes back good, and fuel pressure comes back good, well lets just get to that point first and go from there.

Also, I do not know why you decided to go from cam cap bolts to studs, but this may play a role somehow in your problem or ultimate destination.

Yes brand new stock plugs. I did compression last night and it's 150 on all 4 cylinders, I also have external fuel pressure gauge and am reading 33 ish when it does run. Reason for cam cap studs is I have had threads pull out of head before. (Yes I did follow the FSN procedure for cam removal)

Thanks!!

[Kingtal0n]

if you have compression, fuel pressure, and spark, then you have it narrowed down to electronics: ecu, cas, timing, harnesses, etc...