Should I worry about cooling??

[bahlorm]

Hey guys I have an s13 with a red top sr20. Currently I have a completely stock cooling system. I just recently added a gt2871r turbo 550cc injectors and an enthalpy tune. I plan to run the boost up to around 19 psi.
My ecu is on the way back from enthalpy now, and I'm debating whether to put my money into suspension parts or if I need a better cooling system since I'll be dealing with more power.

What do you guys think? This car will only be autocrossed this year. The chances of it seeing a track day is slim to none.
Should I go ahead and get rid of this junk old ass suspension, or will I risk overheating if I don't upgrade my radiator or cooling fan?

[e1_griego]

Keep the clutch fan and just put in a radiator. Ebay's finest at worse, or a koyo is like $240 shipped on ebay. Don't need much beyond that.

[jr_ss]

I don't think you have enough injector to run 19psi on a 2871R.

Either way, spend the extra funds and throw in the KOYO. Proven to cool better than Mishimoto.

[angel mkiv]

I'd just to be safe would flush the coolant, replace the thermostat and water pump along with a aftermarket radiator..unless it's all pretty new.

[bahlorm]

I am not too sure how old it all may be. I never had overheating issues with it being stock. But I understand more power may have me run into higher temperature issues.

[GregS13grist]

Koyo + Low Temp Thermostat is the way to go �� more power = more heat which needs to be taken into consideration. I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later!

[Kingtal0n]

I don't think you have enough injector to run 19psi on a 2871R.

Either way, spend the extra funds and throw in the KOYO. Proven to cool better than Mishimoto.

If its on stock cams (stock engine) t-25 flange it will only make 320~rwhp iirc

and KOYO I would avoid completely. Dont you remember the old fan test when we realized how poorly air passes them? In fact I recently replaced an aluminum Koyo with a no-name brand aluminum and can tell an enormous difference in cooling with the same exact fans.

As to temperature. You want the sr20det engine to hit operating temperature as quick as possible, not cooler than 80*C. From 80 to 90 is the range you want to see the sr20det driving in, and anything over 90*C should draw your attention. More heat is going to improve your fuel economy, and can also improve power output if used correctly. Many modern engines run around 200*F or more.

[jr_ss]

Blah, blah, blah

KOYO are proven radiators, that cool more efficiently than Mishimoto or other low quality "no name" radiators. Do some reading and enlighten yourself, rather than regurgitating shit you hear.

[Prok0]

If you plan on tracking the car I would do some cooling upgrades just to be on the safe side, especially if your car still has an older factory plastic tank radiator. Doing AutoX its relatively low speed also so you may not have a ton of air moving across the core so it may get a bit hot with the factory radiator in there.


Aftermarket aluminum rad, low temp thermo, and some new hoses/fluid and you should be good for quite a bit.

[Kingtal0n]

KOYO are proven radiators, that cool more efficiently than Mishimoto or other low quality "no name" radiators. Do some reading and enlighten yourself, rather than regurgitating shit you hear.

1. everything on this and every other forum is just "shit you hear". You basically just told everyone not to believe anything they read.

2. I've owned at least 5x KOYO Aluminum Radiators and everytime I swapped it out for a generic brand or even a COPPER KOYO I had better cooling results.

3. The nail in the coffin comes from actual experimental evidence, not "talk"



actually, it was an older thread on zilvia that i read about griffen radiators. i believe dave, driftfreaq, commented on the koyos (but don't quote me i can't even find that thread). it was stated that the koyo was designed with too many cooling fins or they were too closely packed together and led to inefficient cooling, but because of its large core size and amount of fins it still works adaquately. even the infamous cooling fan thread, the koyo copper stock replacement oem spec radiator outperformed the large aluminum koyo. however, there are better and more efficient radiators like griffin and fluidyne to name a few.

i'm not trying to start a debate or anything. i'm just trying to spread some information on what i have read. maybe others who know more on the issue can shed some light. if not, let it die.

koyo's still work fine, and for the price (about 300) they are probably the best bang for the buck, which is probably why 90% of 240sx owners run them. they are decent quality, but you can opt for other higher quality and more expensive radiators in 500-600 range like greddy, fluidyne, griffin or super jdm expensive radiators like ARC, yashio factory, ings+1, etc in the 1000+ range. i will probably be doing vmount and end up buying a koyo as well since i'm going to be hacking it up/welding/experimenting with it.

but this guy thread poster doesnt even want to opt for koyo.. at the same time, he was just asking how the mishimoto radiator performed. i dont see the point in paying more if the mishimoto is the same thing as koyo and performs the same. i dont know much about mishimoto, but if they are ebay quality i wouldn't buy it. it's like ppl buying spl/stance coils vs more expensive jdm counterparts. why buy the silk roads, cusco, koguchi power, whatever spec when you can get stance/spl that works just as good for less.

i think everyone is too quick to bash on cheap stuff that isnt tried and tested yet. some things like certain megan parts that are tried and tested and break and crap deserved to be bashed but not something new and cheaper and untested yet. if no one ever asked about spl, stance, etc. then no one would try them. then we wouldnt know spl or stance is good quality and inexpensively priced and everyone would just say they are cheap and unsuperior and bash them being ebay quality. then we wouldnt have alternatives.

end.





more "reading"
i run Mishimoto radiators on all my rb swaps and i have never had any problems with any rb s14/s13 over heating.. what i can tell you is when i ran a koyo with duel altima fans and nismo thermostat this happen to my rb.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/859/dsc01137lx8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/859/dsc01137lx8.8a94f69dd0.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=516&i=dsc01137lx8.jpg)

sitting in rush hour traffic on the 91 freeway with a koyo radiator is bad news

[bahlorm]

Yeah I am currently on stock cams with even a stock exhaust manifold for now. But this info is definitely useful. Especially since I finally just recently got a working temperature gauge which is tapped into the top radiator hose instead of the top location. Pretty sure I also have the stock radiator so that will be gone shortly.

[jr_ss]

Here you go Idiot, I mean Kingtalon. An actual experiment with real radiators. Like I said, Koyo's are proven to work, now can you please STFU?

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Cooling%20Data%20Comparison.html

Now, I know that Mishimoto isn't in the test group, but if you'd like some more real world experience between the Mishimoto and Koyo's, please go over to NRR and ask around or even search for the threads on Mishimoto. Those guys drive their cars on the track and have stated time and time again that "knock off" radiators are garbage.