Can someone answer me this??

[Javi802]

My Sr isn't building boost.. won't go above 0

I unplugged the hose going from the wastegate to the hot pipe to see if my car would boost even a little.

And still not boosting at all.


Is this a telltale sign that the wastegate itself is indeed bad?

[angel mkiv]

Have you checked for any boost leaks or exhaust leaks?and did this just start randomly or did you change/ install anything?im not sure exactly how to test the actuator but I'm sure a Google search could

[brndck]

make sure that the c-clip that holds the wastegate arm to the flap is still in place (assuming that you're still running an internal gate turbo.

also check all couplers and clamps for a boost leak.

[Javi802]

I haven't thoroughly checked for boost leaks yet. I have however sprayed the intercooler couplers, exhaust manifold and blow off valve. Didn't get any bubbles.

I have had a leak before though and I would still get some boost, but with a hesitation/jerky feel.


At the moment it just wont build pressure at all.

I did have the intake/exhaust manifolds off when the engine was out, but I tightened them down the same as I previously have.

Changed all turbo gastkets/studs as well and it still boosted

[Javi802]

clip is still holding the the rod it its place.

[mr.nismo.]

Your gate must be stuck open. Wideband? If you had a leak that bad that it wouldn't let you build boost your motor would not be a happy camper


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[Javi802]

Well i just did a boost leak test.

Took off the turbo intake and put a coupler with a pcv pipe end with a valve stem on it. Unattached the cold pipe from the throttle body and put a pcv pipe cap on it to block it off.

Hooked up my air compressor and put enough air in it make the wastegate open and stopped airing it up to listen for leaks.

Nothing.
I would think if a leak was big enough to cause the turbo to not build any boost whatsoever it would make a noticeable sound at the location of the leak...?

Ecutalk says my timing is at 15btdc so i assume my timing is correct. As is my mechanical timing because i checked that when the engine was out.

I cant tell if the engine is missing or not either because I'm running open down pipe at the moment, which is pretty damn loud. So I'm unsure if the coils aren't sending enough spark under load or not.

I did notice that when i started the engine for the first time in 2 months, after having it out of the vehicle, that it started to smoke quite a bit from the turbo/manifold...
I thought this may just be all the oil and what not that i put on it while installing new ss lines and what not burning off. Because it stopped smoking a little while after..?

[Kingtal0n]

why dont you test the turbo with your hand and see if its frozen up. It is either frozen or the wastegate is bypassing all your exhaust.


Sometimes I do this on purpose, disconnect the wastegate to run the engine N/A. It helps fine tuning throttle response around 0psi->1psi range, fine tuning of ignition and fuel in that area can be difficult with a small turbocharger like a T-28

[Javi802]

Wouldn't running a perfectly good turbo with the wastage unplugged make you over boost?

Or are you saying you only give it enough throttle to build 1 psi?

[mr.nismo.]

Sometimes I do this on purpose, disconnect the wastegate to run the engine N/A.


DO NOT DO THAT. If for whatever reason you build boost like it should and the waste gate hose disconnected you will BLOW your motor. If you can open your waste gate by hand it is WEAK and is probably opening under engine vacuum.


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[Javi802]

Well i already tested that yesterday. Unplugged wastegate hose and still didn't boost.

And I can move the actuator rod by hand. Its a little tough, but i can move it.

Are you not supposed to be able to do so at all??

[mr.nismo.]

Well i already tested that yesterday. Unplugged wastegate hose and still didn't boost.

And I can move the actuator rod by hand. Its a little tough, but i can move it.

Are you not supposed to be able to do so at all??


You should be able to some but depending how macho you are it should be pretty resistant. Just out of curiosity have you looked at your turbo blades? Or in general can you even hear the turbo making spooling sounds? A friend had the shaft snap and exhaust blades were spinning but nothing on the intake side


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[Javi802]

I can not hear the turbo at all, as opposed to before i pulled the engine.

I just don't understand why the turbo would shit out when it ran fine before pulling the engine. Only sat for two months.

I think i may be having a timing issue though. Im hoping thats why its not boosting, but if that isn't the problem i guess ill be forced to check the wheels on the turbo

[mr.nismo.]

I can not hear the turbo at all, as opposed to before i pulled the engine.

I just don't understand why the turbo would shit out when it ran fine before pulling the engine. Only sat for two months.

I think i may be having a timing issue though. Im hoping thats why its not boosting, but if that isn't the problem i guess ill be forced to check the wheels on the turbo


If your timing was that bad it would shit all over itself and not run well at ALL. Check the turbo itself and see what's up


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[Kingtal0n]

DO NOT DO THAT. If for whatever reason you build boost like it should and the waste gate hose disconnected you will BLOW your motor. If you can open your waste gate by hand it is WEAK and is probably opening under engine vacuum.


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disconnect the wastegate ACTUATOR. Not the hose. I can see why you would get confused, but only if you weren't aware the arm could be disconnected. which reflects lack of experience or understanding. In which case you should not be trying to diagnose anything.

[jr_ss]

Pull the intake pipe and turbo outlet. Check that the turbo does indeed spin. Check to make sure the comp wheel spins when the exhaust wheel I moved. My next suggestion is to pull the turbo and verify you haven't shoved anything into the turbo, rag or other means of keeping items out of the turbo.

I think your turbo is damaged and pinned to the housing or seized. It happens, find a replacement.

[mr.nismo.]

disconnect the wastegate ACTUATOR. Not the hose. I can see why you would get confused, but only if you weren't aware the arm could be disconnected. which reflects lack of experience or understanding. In which case you should not be trying to diagnose anything.


Instead of trying to be an asshole, you should specify what you mean by disconnecting the waste gate, as I'm betting 90% of people on here will think "disconnecting the waste gate" would mean to pull the vac line off it. I'm well aware how it works, so instead of wording about that, worry about your attention to detail when you tell someone over the internet how to diag.

Good day sir


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[Javi802]

Im not trying to disregard y'all telling me to check the wheels on the turbo, but i thought i would add that while trying to boost, my AFR's stay the same...

between 14-15.. while giving it more than partial throttle

I also hear a weird noise coming from the turbo when i rev it. I don't believe its a leak as i don't run rich when trying to boost... Sadly it does kind of sound like metal rubbing metal

Ill have to pull my down pipe off on my day off this week to check it out :(

Ill also try to post a video of the sound i speak of

[anti tyler]

You're positive the waste gate port isn't connected to vacuum and instantly opening when you start the car?


Also, when you boost leak test you need to have your boost gauge on and available to watch while you leak test.

If your compressor is at let's say 100psi and you're only building and holding like 5psi then there's obviously a leak so great you're not building boost at all.

You've got to have a massive leak somewhere.

[Javi802]

my wastegate is connected directly to the pressure source. On the hot pipe.

Wouldn't a boost leak cause a rich condition?

Im pretty sure I've had a boost leak before and the symptoms were that of my AFR going straight to 10.0, hesitation while trying to build boost, but still building boost.

[angel mkiv]

I'm leaning to a rag being forgotten somewhere on the exhaust side.can you feel the exhaust flow from the downpipe?id do what was mentioned above and pull the inlet pipe off and make sure the turbo is even spinning off and then test while it's running and make sure it spins faster as the rpms do also.

[Javi802]

Well, i figured it out..

Turns out the turbine wheel was stuck somehow. I couldn't spin it freely, but i did, however, get it to spin freely.


I started the car and let it warm up. Right off the bat i could hear the turbo. Even more so when revving it.

I drove down the street and could definitely hear the turbo. I even hit 0 zero on my boost gauge as opposed to before when it would top off at -2. I didn't have enough street to try and build boost. When i turned on the next street though...



Then that all went away... Couldn't even hear it anymore. AND i could not build boost

What would cause the turbine wheel to keep getting stuck?

I stuck a coupler with a pcv cap that has a valve stem in it, on the inlet and took off the hot pipe and tried blowing anything that may have been lodged in the wheel out.

Is this just a sign of a turbo shitting out? After freeing the wheel the first time, it spun nicely. No in/out or side to side shaft play

[jr_ss]

A new turbo is in order. You aren't going to fix it by unsticking it every time, it's trash.

[Javi802]

Any ideas as to why a my turbo would out of the blew crap out?

Worked fine before pulling the engine.. So i thought, anyways.

After starting the engine after two months of sitting, it was smoking quite a bit from the turbo, but stopped and no longer smoked.

Nooooo Monicaaa!
Guess ill be saving for a turbo :/

[angel mkiv]

Maybe debris got stuck in there during the 2 months and ruined or maybe didn't get enough oil pressure before you restarted it.also is this a factory t25? I'f so it's well over 15 years old and beat on regularly.its time it gets replaced anyways

[vh45D21]

Have you tried turning it off and back on again?

[jr_ss]

Have you tried turning it off and back on again?

You're kidding right? This has to be a joke and/or spam. I say spam.

[Kingtal0n]

lol @ all this abuse over a $50 turbocharger

[Javi802]

lol @ all this abuse over a $50 turbocharger



What?

And if you could link me to a site that sells good working order t25's for $50 that'd be great :kiss:

[l adam l]

maybe you're not getting oil to the turbo? my buddy had too much hose on the return line, so it was kinked...wouldn't let the car build boost and it smoked pretty bad. fixed the hose and it boosted fine and the turbo was actually still usable for a little while after that, the seals went out shortly after. rebuild kits are only like $40.

[Javi802]

Its funny you mention that, Adam.

I had stripped out the oil feed and tapped it out for a larger NPT fitting and put silicone sealer around the fitting before installing it into the block.

And I've been wondering if the silicone is clogging the hose. Ill find out this weekend though

[jr_ss]

If your going to replace it, you might as well put something with a little more oomph on it. You don't have to run high psi pressures if you don't have the fuel for it. Something in the 28rs or 2863 would be fun.

[Javi802]

You think the journal bearing t28 would be good? Theres a cheap one in the classifieds is why i ask

And could i run everything stock... from the maf, injectors and ecu only boosting from the wastegate?

[jr_ss]

The T28, yes.

[l adam l]

The T28, yes.

+1 for the t28, good little turbos. and yeah i bet the silicone is blocking it.

[kleenS14]

If you threw silicone in the oil feed of the turbo and blocked the oil inlet it doesn't take much time for a center cartridge, of any sort, to take a shit. Center bearing of the turbo seized due to lack of oiling, seized the shaft and in turn blades won't turn. Dirty motors with old oil that clog oil feeds blow perfectly good turbos everyday, I know first hand. Be very careful how you seal oil feed lines. Btw another +1 for t28, cheap turbo that makes good power. Just get someone else to seal your feed line next time (hint..permatex liquid gasket)

[Kingtal0n]

If you threw silicone in the oil feed of the turbo and blocked the oil inlet it doesn't take much time for a center cartridge, of any sort, to take a shit. Center bearing of the turbo seized due to lack of oiling, seized the shaft and in turn blades won't turn. Dirty motors with old oil that clog oil feeds blow perfectly good turbos everyday, I know first hand. Be very careful how you seal oil feed lines. Btw another +1 for t28, cheap turbo that makes good power. Just get someone else to seal your feed line next time (hint..permatex liquid gasket)

Errr well. I agree yes. However, if you have oil that filthy, then your cams will wipe out before the turbo knows what happened.

If your going to replace it, you might as well put something with a little more oomph on it. You don't have to run high psi pressures if you don't have the fuel for it. Something in the 28rs or 2863 would be fun.


I Like the way this guy thinks. And to second his thought, you could always install something bigger like a 2871r and just keep the wastegate arm disconnected until you can afford to fuel it.

[Javi802]

Well I used permatex high temp thread sealant.

Read that all NTP fitting require use of either sealer or Teflon so I went with the sealer.

When I take the manifold and turbo off im gonna look inside the fitting and see if its blocked and if it is im gonna stick a pick inside to scrape the excess silicone out.


As for the turbo, I think im gonna go with the journal bearing s14 t28 being as there is a cheap one for sale.

That or im gonna spend a little more for a spec r s15 one if it doesn't sell before I have the cash for it.

Any of yall know what I can expect from the t28 running off the wastgate (7lbs)? Power wise

[Javi802]

supposedly its about the equivalent to running 10-11psi on the t25, but I don't know