PDA

View Full Version : Stripped valve cover screw!?


DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 06:20 PM
Guys, i was replacing my valve cover gasket and one of the 6 or 8 screws i think stripped when i was tightening it. it wont go back in at all, I dont see any leaks as of yet. what are my options to fix this problem? Also i have a vibration in the car at idle, and listening to exhaust it doesnt sound smooth, it sound like poof poof poof, like its not getting the right fuel, maybe needs new fuel filter? but my main concern now is this screw. Please help. Thanks

skatanic28
07-14-2004, 07:02 PM
you should really use a torque wrench when putting those back on. i believe its 10-12 ft lbs. if just the bolt is stripped, try using another in the same spot to see if the threading on the head is still ok. if it is, just go to the dealer and grab another bolt, and torque to spec this time!

TheSnail
07-14-2004, 07:12 PM
The screw is not going to make a diff. I my old ka had 6screws and it was fine. It would help to know what motor you have. An rb20 is very sensitive to valve cover leaks. My old rb20 car would bog down if you opend the valve cover oil cap while it was running. Guessing you have a ka, it is the least of your worries. " poof poof poof " is not a very good description. Does it poof poof poof smoke? what color? Have you always owned the car or did you just buy it? Is it a Ka? I can ask a million questions, but with out a better description I wont bother.

TheSnail
07-14-2004, 07:16 PM
. what are my options to fix this problem?

A tapping bit from Advanced Auto, Pepboys, ex...

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 08:17 PM
The screw is not going to make a diff. I my old ka had 6screws and it was fine. It would help to know what motor you have. An rb20 is very sensitive to valve cover leaks. My old rb20 car would bog down if you opend the valve cover oil cap while it was running. Guessing you have a ka, it is the least of your worries. " poof poof poof " is not a very good description. Does it poof poof poof smoke? what color? Have you always owned the car or did you just buy it? Is it a Ka? I can ask a million questions, but with out a better description I wont bother.
I got the car 2 days ago. As for the poof poof it doesnt smoke at all. Stock 91 240 with 88,xxx miles.

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 08:19 PM
you should really use a torque wrench when putting those back on. i believe its 10-12 ft lbs. if just the bolt is stripped, try using another in the same spot to see if the threading on the head is still ok. if it is, just go to the dealer and grab another bolt, and torque to spec this time!

are you saying to use another of the same screw to see if it works? If so, just know that the screw isnt stripped, when I pulled it back out there was some shavings around the threading, this is why im worried...

240Driver39
07-14-2004, 08:38 PM
its fine, it wont leak if u stripped one out, these things happen, just next time u tighten em, hold the socket wrench at the head and tighten it like that, reduces the torque u can apply just right.

aznpoopy
07-14-2004, 08:50 PM
what kind of tools were you using? you should use a proper ratchet and then a torque wrench with 6 sided sockets. universal fit ones suck ass and have shitty grip. just go to the nissan dealer and let them ass rape you for the screw. it probably won't be more then 5-10 bucks anyway. maybe it matters, maybe it doesn't; but doing things properly saves you peace of mind.

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 08:52 PM
its fine, it wont leak if u stripped one out, these things happen, just next time u tighten em, hold the socket wrench at the head and tighten it like that, reduces the torque u can apply just right.
Oh ok well good to know that, i still think i will tap and die it when i get back from toronto on the 29th.

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 08:56 PM
what kind of tools were you using? you should use a proper ratchet and then a torque wrench with 6 sided sockets. universal fit ones suck ass and have shitty grip. just go to the nissan dealer and let them ass rape you for the screw. it probably won't be more then 5-10 bucks anyway. maybe it matters, maybe it doesn't; but doing things properly saves you peace of mind.
Using standard ratchet w/extension and socket. like i said before theres nothing wrong with the screw so i dont see the point of getting a new one. i will be investing in a torque wrench though. btw any idea how much a fuel filter costs?

240Driver39
07-14-2004, 09:29 PM
10 or 12 bux, just get the 300zx one, cheaper and larger so it will last ya longer for us lazy people.

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 09:45 PM
10 or 12 bux, just get the 300zx one, cheaper and larger so it will last ya longer for us lazy people.
sounds good, what year 300zx u talking about, turbo non turbo? bolts right up? how much? lol

RedlineRacer
07-14-2004, 10:35 PM
Don't worry man, I stripped one of mine a few months ago, and it runs fine. I don't even know how I stripped it either, I was barely putting any force into it.

DRFT24O
07-14-2004, 10:54 PM
Don't worry man, I stripped one of mine a few months ago, and it runs fine. I don't even know how I stripped it either, I was barely putting any force into it.
Yea i barely put any force on it, so weird. i guess cause there aluminum heads there real sensitive. :cool:

duey
07-15-2004, 09:55 AM
i stripped the bolts on my SR a few weeks ago when i was trying to adjust my CAS. I just made a run to autozone and bought myself a box full of nuts/bolts and it had the right sized bolts with the correct thread pitch.

Salty_X
07-15-2004, 01:46 PM
If you really want to fix it you can tap it or you can get some helicoils. I think the helicoils are M6x1.25...

Half of the valve cover holes on my KA are helicoiled and the other half are stripped. You'll be fine as long as you don't put it up past 6500 rpms or so - past that you'll run the risk of popping the gasket loose.