Im going to attempt 4wd

[TheSnail]

I have been thinking about it the past two days. And I have decided to try going 4wd. I got an email today saying my rb26dett is getting to the US on the 25th, then it will be another week before they get it to there shop and clean it up and such. My plans were to drift the car competitivly with our shop "FinishLine", but today the plans were changed, here is the story. The shop cars are Yellow, you might of seen them. We first stared off at Drift Atlanta, and did pretty good. so about 3weeks ago Finishline qualified in D1. Well, since drift atl, I focused on summer school. I come back to the shop about two weeks later and see Tony's car was not black anymore. It was a bright ass yellow. I was amazed, that thing used to be "not top notch" but over the short period of time I was gone My boss got him sponcered by: BBS, Stoptech, Tein, Griffith radiators?, Zoom clutches, Toyo tires, Sparco, Autopower, and auto painting. I was like PHUCK ! All this crap just for compeating. So at the time, they were working on this dump ride hatchback, that has been behind the shop for the past two years. This was five days before Huston Texas, and when my boss told me that the hatch was going into the comp, I was like "riiiight". I come back three days later, the hatch now has an Sr, silvia frontend, painted yellow, and is sponcerd by the same brands as tony's s14, with the addition of a HKS FMIC. Phuckin A that was fast. So I told my Boss to put me on that shit when the rb26 comes in. I also told him I did not want my car to be painted fly yellow, so we are going to have mine black with yellow stickers to match the other cars. Today I sat and made plans with him , and he decided not to have mine as a drift car, he said it would be a "hand full" . He said Motorex could of easyly made their 350z rb26, but yet they decided to go sr. So he wants to make my car into a drag car to take advantage of the 26. This would be the shops Drag car since we dont have one. He want to get Enjuku with this one. Im like, "what ever" just sponcer the shit. I have never been a fan of drag racing, but when people are willing to give you turbo kits and standalone's, "Shit, I love drag racing ,what you talkin about?". I still want to drive my car on the street, but I dont know if that is going to happen. I also want to run duel gt25r's but my boss said just to go with a big ass single turbo with spray. I dont know, I still want the duels. Now this is where the 4wd comes in. I could get the mount kit at cost, but I have been thinking, instead of spending the money on the rb25 tranny and mounts (I already bought the rb25 oilpan) I could just take take that money and go to Custom Car Fabrication, and use the money for just the guys help and welding skills. Me my friend and "Turbo Dave" would attempt it. Im 99% sure we can do it, so tommarow I am going to his shop to ask him about it and see if 1500$ is enough for his assistance. The rb26 clip I got was out of a r32, so the chassie is very similar to the s13 and the skyline width from hub to hub is onley .9inches wider then the s13's so I am going to go for it. I went to Nopi drag wars's site and looked at the competition for prostreet and I found 8 supra's and 2 eclipses. Weird thing, I am good friends with both the 3rd 4rth place guys. The first place guy was an eclipse 3 time champion, and Im sure thats only because of the 4wd. So thats what made me want to go 4wd. With my 26 fully tuned, my car would be like a Light ass supra with 4wd. That shit would be very hard to beat. I mean what other 4wd 6cyl turbo is there? So now I am holding up on the mount kit and going to attempt the 4wd in about 3-4weeks from now. I really dont think it would take that long but I will see. All the power mods are sponcerd (at least most of them) so I don have to worry about money, the only money I will have to spend is the 4wd attempt, and I allready pay for the rb26 clip out of my own pocket. So it puts my total spent money on this motor set up at 7-8g's, which aint bad, but For the next year I will be driving around a billboard. Anyways I will keep you guys up to date on this. I only hang out on Zilvia and no other forums,(SINCE ITS THE SHIT) so I am always around I your curios on the 4wd project. I gone make one crazy doughnut video for you guys LOL ! ! ! Anyways, sorry for the long post and my illiteracy. Im not going to proff read that shit, thats too much to read, fuck that.

OH MA GA ! ! IS GAZIRAAAH ! ! ! !


-Snail

[WilloW]

Sounds like a sweet deal, good luck on the 4WD project, and post pics of your progress.

[TheSnail]

I will be sure to list all complications that I come across for future refference to my beloved Zilvainians.

[holisticbeatz]

*whew* Didn't read your post, just the title. So all i'm going to say is.. uhhh.. 4WD, awesome! Do it~!

[mellojoe]

That is going to be a LOT of work! LOTS of time.

good luck

[gmckey]

do I have to be the first to say that 4WD and AWD are different things?

[s13Dr1ft]

can we start doing paragraphs? Good luck with it.

[andrave]

its going to be very very difficult to get AWD in the car. The engine won't line up with the firewall correctly once you line up the front axles, and the shifter probably won't either. Also the skyline is wishbone front I believe and the 240 as we all know, is strut. Mating the two is going to be very difficult. You need to look into what regulations are involved with whatever class you want to compete in. you could very easily end up being ineligible for most of the popular racing series because you will basically be tube framing the front half of the car, and a lot of them don't allow modified suspension points. Its not impossible and its been done before, and by the time you are done you might as well just buy a skyline and import it. You will probably need a full front clip to get all the necessary parts anyway. If its going to be a race only vehicle, could I suggest just buying a used R32 and importing it for parts or race use, and then just racing it? much cheaper, simpler, and cooler, IMO.

[TheSnail]

its going to be very very difficult to get AWD in the car. The engine won't line up with the firewall correctly once you line up the front axles, and the shifter probably won't either.

Son of a b... This is the same thing I was thinking about as I was going to sleep last night. I planed that if I run into those complications, that I would first fab in the subframe then make custom motormounts for engine location. The calss I would be in is quite leanient, allowing me to alter the wheel base by +or- 2inches. also the fenders can be cut one inch. The fire wall can also be alterd alittle, and the only suspension restriction that I know is your limited to have one shock per wheel. The engine has to be of the same make as the car, and the tranny has to be a oem production tranny, and not a seiqensial type unless it was a factory option. So I have a little room to play along with theis rules. I am going to talk to TurboDave right now, and get his opinion and price. I copied all the rules for my class, if you have spare time, try to find a rule that may not allow my car and set up. Thanks, Snail

1.11> PRO STREET TIRE
• SPEED: Cars must run 12.99 or quicker to compete in this class.
• SPONSOR DECALS: All racers must have series and or class sponsor decals as
required by NDRA. Competitors can utilize a competing sponsor product / logo.

• CLASS: The class designation (P/ST) must be on the both sides and the front window in
3-inch tall letters.
• NUMBERS: Numbers on both sides and rear windows must be 6 inches tall. The front
windshield may be 3 inches tall.
• BODY: Stock import or domestic compact car or truck body must be retained.
Lightweight parts limited to hood and ground effects only. Stock steel roof, quarter
panels, doors, A-pillars, and rocker panels must remain intact. Fenders can be trimmed a
maximum of one inch for tire clearance only. No chop tops, channeling or changing of
scale of vehicle. All vehicles must remain 100% to scale. One-piece front ends not
allowed. DOT glass must remain.
• INTERIOR: Inner door panels, headliner, carpeting, and dashboard must remain. All air
conditioning and heater components may be removed.
• ENGINE: Overhead cam 4 cylinder, 5 cylinder and 6 cylinder engines allowed. 2 rotor
entries allowed. Engine must be of same make as vehicle competing and use a factory
part number. Factory performance blocks allowed. No Fontana or billet blocks would be
allowed. No air-cooled entries.
• CYLINDER HEADS: Must be commercially available, produced in runs of 500 or more.
No billet cylinder heads. Any Internal modification permitted including filling and porting.
• INDUCTION SYSTEMS: Any commercially available induction may be used, but stock
configuration must be retained. Ex: Fuel injected entries must remain fuel injected, with
the same type of injection used as delivered stock.
Example: if the car is delivered from the factory in a single throttle body configuration it
must remain as a single throttle body.
• NITROUS OXIDE: Bottles must be stamped 1800-psi minimum. Bottles must be
mounted directly to the body of the vehicle, utilizing steel mountings and all mounting
points. Electrical bottle heaters allowed. NOTE: NO EXTERNAL FLAME HEATING
ALLOWED. Blow down tube is required if bottle is inside passenger compartment.
• EXHAUST SYSTEM: NDRA does not require mufflers for racing; however some tracks
have a noise ordinance, which requires a muffler for Saturday racing.
• TRANSMISSION: Any transmission that is available as O.E.M. in a production car
either import or domestic is allowed. No Clutch less, Liberty, Lenco, B.H.J. type
transmissions allowed. NO sequential transmission unless offered as an OEM option.
Two and three speed automatic transmissions permitted.
• DRIVE SHAFT: Open drive shaft passing any part of the driver's body must be
completely enclosed with a plate of 1/8-inch minimum thickness securely mounted to the
frame or frame structure.
• CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL/FLYWHEEL SHIELD: FWD, AWD or RWD entries allowed.
OEM rear end must be on RWD vehicles. Scatter-shield required if 11.99 or quicker. See
section 4;13 and 4.16 for additional details.
• MINIMUM WEIGHTS / TURBO LIMITS:
6 Cyl. Vehicles 3300lbs and under are limited to a
81mm turbo charger.
6 Cyl. Vehicles 3301lbs and over are limited to a 88mm turbo charger.
4 Cyl. Vehicles have no turbo charger limits.
• CHASSIS: Full stock chassis required. Removal of sheet metal in the interior is limited
to metal supports for attachment of center console. Also transmission tunnel may be
trimmed to allow enough clearance for transmission and shield to clear floor, AND NO
MORE THAN THAT!! However sheet metal cannot be removed from the floors for any
reason. Roll cage or roll bars allowed only inside passenger compartment or as needed
to be compliant with applicable safety specifications, especially on cars faster than 9.99
with NHRA or 9.50 with IHRA. In all cases, no car shall be allowed to cut flooring out of
the vehicle. Window nets required if vehicles run quicker than 9.99 with NHRA or 9.50
with IHRA or 135 mph, as specified in NHRA/IHRA Rulebooks. No north-to-south engine
configuration changes. Engine must be mounted in stock location with stock-style motor
mounts.
• SUSPENSION: Must use one shock per wheel, or retain original style suspension. Coilover
shocks allowed. No wheelie bars allowed. Stock functional shock towers must
remain completely intact front and rear. Stock pieces may be strengthened. Entire rear
sub frame structure must remain intact. Lower control arm alterations limited to
lengthening or strengthening. Back half conversions not permitted.
• WHEELBASE: Wheelbase must remain within +/-2 inch of stock.
• IGNITION SYSTEM: Aftermarket crank triggers, two-step rev limiters, ignition
amplifiers, spark computers or dynamically adjustable engine management systems and
piggyback engine management systems are allowed. Stand-alone systems allowed.
• LIGHTS/STREET EQUIPMENT: Headlights, turn signals, and taillights must be
retained in stock working condition. One headlight can be removed for air induction.
• BRAKES: Cars must have four-wheel brakes, in good working order.
• TRACTION CONTROL: Only if traction control is factory installed equipment as
delivered from factory.
• COOLING SYSTEM: Electric fans allowed. Must use overflow/catch can 1 pint
minimum.
• WHEELS/STUDS: See General Regulations Section 4.35.
• TIRES: Must run DOT radial tires. Absolutely no mini-spare tires or non-speed rated
tires may be used at any time. Cars running 11.99 must have metal valve stems, or tubes
/liners.
NOTE: 4 Cyl. Vehicles may use DOT approved tires i.e. Mickey Thompson ET streets.
• FUEL: Any NDRA approved racing gasoline allowed. See section 4.32 for more
information.
• DRIVERS LICENSE: Driver must have a valid unrestricted state- or government- issued
driver’s license, with no underage driving restrictions, mandatory for cars running 10.00
or slower.
• COMPETITION LICENSE
NOTE: A VALID COMPETITION LICENSE MANDATORY FOR CARS RUNNING 9.99
AND QUICKER AT A NHRA TRACK AND 9;50 AND QUICKER AT A IHRA TRACK. (NO
EXCEPTIONS!)
• DRIVERS SAFETY EQUIPMENT: Any vehicle equipped with a roll cage or roll bar
must be equipped with a padded head protector to be placed behind the driver's head
mounted in such a way so as to help minimize the risk of whiplash. The cage or roll bar
must also be fitted with padding in any area where it may come in contact with the
driver's helmet. Padding with ¼ inch compression or padding meeting SFI Spec 45.1
padding or better shall be used. No other forms of padding will be accepted.
• HELMETS: Drivers of cars 13.99 or quicker must use a helmet that is Snell, 90, 95,
2000 SFI 31.1A, 31.2A, 41.1A or 41.2A spec. Any helmet that is modified in any way
other than paint jobs shall be deemed unsafe and not suited for competition. Drivers must
be wearing their helmet prior to entering the burnout area. The NDRA requires the use of
Full Face Helmets and strongly recommends the use of the proper visor as well. The
NDRA also strongly recommends the use of a head restraint system.
• CLOTHING: 10.00-11.99: Drivers must wear jacket meeting SFI 3.2A/1. Cars running
9.99 and quicker must wear a jacket meeting SFI 3.2A/5, and Gloves meeting 3.3/1
mandatory.
• SEAT BELTS: All cars THAT REQUIRE a roll bar must use a 3-inch, 5-point SFI 16.1
driver restraint system equipped with a quick release system. Belts must be mounted to
the frame or cross member or in a reinforced mounting point so that all connections are in
a direct line with the direction of the pull. CARS REQUIRING A SFI 16.1 DRIVERS
RESTRAINT System must HAVE THE BELTS updated 2 year FROM THE DATES
STAMPED ON THE SFI BELT TAGS. Cars using OEM type seats may route the crotch
strap in front of the seat rather than through a hole in the base cushion.
• PARACHUTES: Required for all cars exceeding 150 mph. Tech inspectors may inspect
parachute for damage or wear at our discretion. Parachutes must be solidly mounted to
frame and release housing must be no more than 12” from parachute pack and must be
mounted in such a way to ensure smooth operation without failure. NOTE: new for 2003

[s13Dr1ft]

unless you have endless pocket change then its no problem, But if not then if your still getting the 26, may as well keep it RWD and do the smaller amount of work with the 25 tranny and other custom things. doing the AWD conversion will brake you and it will take forever.

[andrave]

dude you are gonna have serious problems campaigning that. First off, you will HAVE to stick with the stock strut design for the suspension up front. the rules state that you can't change that. "original style suspension" Second, you have to use stock engine location with stock motor mounts. Whether or not an RB26 would qualify as being in the stock location with stock motor mounts, you would have to check. And you have to keep the stock strut towers intact.
So your front suspension is going to have to be... I dunno. Cause the rules also state that you can only strengthen and lengthen the stock control arms.
gonna be tough to slip that through the rules, and even then you should ask if they would pass it, cause while you might get through a couple of those rules by the book they might feel that you were violating the spirit of the rules.

In addition you would be limited to the ITB's and limited to an 81mm turbo... I don't know how they would classify twin turbo systems, it isn't clear by their rules.

[Hawd]

good luck. your probably going to get more than you bargained for, but if you got the money/resources more power to you.

[S14DB]

Buy a Skyline. cheaper and easyier in the long run.

[TheSnail]

I just talked to my boss, and he is all against it. He said, I will be braking stock transfer cases and axels. He said it will break and getting that stuff would be big $$$, He thinks I should just stick with rwd and not a stock rear set up but a ford 9inch? Dont get me wrong, but by the rule book thats not legal, so I dont know what the hell he's talking about. Sorry about the hype, but he just crushed my hopes, and now Im having a shitty day. I might say screw the drag racing and do the awd anyways but only stick to 500hp or so and have an normal street car. I will decide on Monday, since he is going to talk to the sponcers. I know I have sponcership by Kaaz, BBS, NOS and Zoom but if he doesnt get any more sponcers, there aint no way my broke ass can buy turbo, internals, standalone for that shit.

[curbsurfer]

this post is retarded. i dont see how anyone would sponsor you. what is the name of your shop so i will never go there?

how old are you ?13?

btw, motorex did not build the 350z with the SR in it. stop making $hit up

[ruf]

Well, since drift atl, I focused on summer school.
Focus harder. Especially on the English...

[TheSnail]

this post is retarded. i dont see how anyone would sponsor you. what is the name of your shop so i will never go there?

how old are you ?13?

btw, motorex did not build the 350z with the SR in it. stop making $hit up

Eat a dick bitch, you will never reach my level, even if I leave the 26 stock.

[matt0941]

mellojoe that would be a cool background if it were not just the same shit repeating.... :loco:

[s13Dr1ft]

well im sorry your dream has been crushed. Its probaly for the better though. Listen to your boss and go with what will get you sponsors instead of you working on your car the whole season. If sponsors are what your after.

[SimpleS14]

Good luck attempting an AWD conversion....but honestly...I suggest you don't even try it. I think you should sell your car and get an imported R32 (legally).

[s13Dr1ft]

screw it, do what you want and have a learning experience...

[Ian]

eh, to be honest i dont even believe you...i've seen the yellow S14 sponsored by TOYO compete...and if you've got skill like thsi guy then MAYBE You should be sponsored...but otherwise, STFU you crybaby...*wah i cant make my car 4wd cuz my boss is doing everything for me and he dosent like it* shut up and listen to him, he obviously got your buddy here sponsored and competeing...

[andrave]

I think you should start with an SR20... it sounds a lot closer to the level you are at right now, without the advanced fabrication and stuff. You should have though of all those things before you approached sponsors and told them about it. You should have cleared it with your boss too though.
as for the 9" I don't see the point, the stock rear end is plenty stout enough. The only advantage to a 9" would be parts availability and switching to a 4 link setup. But backhalving the car is going to bump you up a class.

[Ian]

yeah if you've got kAAZ behind you, take the goddamn KAAZ LSD! that's plenty good...mabye get a custom driveshaft and stfu about it!

[focused]

well im sorry your dream has been crushed. Its probaly for the better though. Listen to your boss and go with what will get you sponsors instead of you working on your car the whole season. If sponsors are what your after.

why do things to your car JUST to get sponsored? I dont know about everyone else, but I build my car to my liking. Not for someone else.

[AutoDestruct]

Cause he's likely a poseur. With ADD I might add.;)

[TheSnail]

I am going to attempt the awd. I will not drag my car but instead keep it as a street car. I already bought the rb26, so the sr is out of the question. I could easly get mounts and have the car running in two-three days after arrival (in 2weeks) but that is to easy, I want to try something that would be very rare and different. It is very posible, and the only poseur's around are the ones that are ranting just because they will never have anything better then a KA with an intake, far aswell a sr, and far aswell a rb26, and far aswell an awd rb26. You bitter fucks should get the point now. And I would think any one would take sponcers because none of us have money like that, and since I'm not made of money I will not bring my car to the strip, stock with 400shot Nitrous. I will not risk my motor if the only motor sponsors are nitrous. I told my boss to forget about the drag racing idea, but decided to attampt awd wether some of you belive it or not.

[SimpleS14]

are you going to rally your car?

[Bryants95240sx]

i say go for it man be diffrent.Anything can be done if you just take the time and if you have the money.

[matlock]

First of all learn to spell Sponsor, then secondly I think you should listen to some of the guys and you need to understand how intense it would be to make the car AWD....not impossible but not just a matter of a little fabrication. I think you should take the RB26 and put it in your car leave it RWD, and then work on it from there and do the drag racing while leaving it a street car because then you can benifit fom the sponsors if that is what you are after, and that way you don't need to modify suspension, drivetrain, etc. Just my opinions. Oh yeah and I have a KA and i'm not going to be on "your level" as you put it so don't even bother trying to put me down because I don't really care.

[andrave]

Good luck with dropping the Rb in AWD.
as for me, I'm finishing up my ka (not as good as your RB, according to you) which has twin Rb26DETT turbos, and will probably be as fast as your car.

[TheSnail]

I have nothing agaist KA's, I loved my ka more then my rb20 (other car). But that pencil dick bitch (curbsufer) will never be on my level. I know I cant spell, I drop out after my 3rd time in 10th grade. I also apriciate the comments by some of you ( Matlock, Bryant, Andrave, s13drft, ex..) but the others with smart ass comments... that is not needed here, its unproductive and if it makes you feel better to say these things hide your lameness, then please take it somewhere else. I will check monday with the Fab guy, and get his approval and help to tackle this project. The guy makes everything, tube chassies, turbo's lawnmowars, turbo motorbikes,turbo 4wheelers, anything known to man, TurboDave can fab up, So I think he will be all for my project. If it all goes to hell, I will apoligize to all of you for talking so much on this project and being a dumbass, but untill then,

"I will have AWD, Oh yes, I will have AWD..." "Snap out of it Snail! You'll never afford it!"

[Phoen_x_s14]

Hell I just wanna see how the RB26 looks like in person when you drop it in, Good luck to you if you somehow manage to get the car 4WD/AWD, but most likely 4WD.
Also check your personal inbox, sending some Q's your way Snail.

[anthony240]

yea, you're brave for even posting about the topic. I was thinking the same thing about 5 months ago. I talked to McKinney but even they said in the end, it will not be worth it, it'll be cheaper and more sensible to buy an R32. but I didn't listen. I even had plans to bring it to Japan and get it tuned by Mine's. 5 months later i'm still thinking about it, but in the long run, it'll only be cool to look at. and because it'll have a heavier engine and an extra front drive, it wouldn't be fun on the course (understeer). only places would be drag and highway, and I could win shows with it too.

so I had the same ideas you have, i didn't care about the build, I knew that anything can be done with time and money. but for me, it will just take out the fun in my car, I was convinced that RWD was the way to go. Heck, I even thought about mid-engine AWD in my S14! VQ mounted where backseats are, RB26 AWD tranny, custom driveshafts, etc. what the hell was I thinking. but I'm past all that, I will stick with what I have, and work with it.

but good luck to you. I was told that no one in Japan even had it done in an S-chassis. but I'm pretty sure there are. it's a tempting swap.

[citizen]

you need more than a 10th grade education to properly tackle a project such as what you are suggesting. that is because i wouldn't be proud of someone else doing the bulk of the work. maybe you should re-focus your efforts back into acadamia, in the long run knowing how to write and having a diploma or g.e.d will help you out more than having a car with 4wd that somebody else fabricated. if i were you i would get finished with school and then go to community college/tech school/apprenticeship and learn the skills necessary to accomplish what you want to do. i'm not saying you shouldn't get some help here and there, just make it your own project, not someone else's. that's it for now because i have to wake up at 6:30, sleepy time~

[curbsurfer]

I have nothing agaist KA's, I loved my ka more then my rb20 (other car). But that pencil dick bitch (curbsufer) will never be on my level. I know I cant spell, I drop out after my 3rd time in 10th grade. I also apriciate the comments by some of you ( Matlock, Bryant, Andrave, s13drft, ex..) but the others with smart ass comments... that is not needed here, its unproductive and if it makes you feel better to say these things hide your lameness, then please take it somewhere else. I will check monday with the Fab guy, and get his approval and help to tackle this project. The guy makes everything, tube chassies, turbo's lawnmowars, turbo motorbikes,turbo 4wheelers, anything known to man, TurboDave can fab up, So I think he will be all for my project. If it all goes to hell, I will apoligize to all of you for talking so much on this project and being a dumbass, but untill then,

"I will have AWD, Oh yes, I will have AWD..." "Snap out of it Snail! You'll never afford it!"


you still havent answered my question... what is the name of this so-called shop you work for? lets see some proof of your motor, car, sponsored cars, whatever you say you have, lets see it.


oh btw, i have already surpassed your "level", i can spell above a 6th grade "level", which is more than i can say for you.

[S14DB]

you still havent answered my question... what is the name of this so-called shop you work for? lets see some proof of your motor, car, sponsored cars, whatever you say you have, lets see it.


oh btw, i have already surpassed your "level", i can spell above a 6th grade "level", which is more than i can say for you.
Based on previous post I looked for a Finishline in MARIETTA, GA
On 06/02/04 SAE KANG registered FINISHLINE MOTORSPORTS RACING.
http://www.finishline.cc/

[HiPSI]

you're getting in deeper than you seem to realize, but go for it if you think you can pull it off.

and as for getting sponsors... generally you have to show them they aren't wasting their time either by competing and showing some skill or actually having built some kind of car that makes them want to give you stuff. just talking to some companies and begging for parts doesn't actually get you very far. i've known several people who have gotten "sponsorships" and have ended up paying out the ass because the company didn't like the finished product or they missed an event they wanted them to be at.

[steve shadows]

this is funny :blah: