rb25 no power when warm

[uhhh-s13 again]

so ive had my swap done now for about 2 months into s13(bought from a friend was running and driving with no problems). put it in got it running, ran like crap knock sensor was unplugget and I put new plugs in, fixed ran awesome. the biggest plug gap I can run is .026 or it cuts out maybe that normal but that seems kinda small to me coming from sr to 1j and now rb(should have stuck the 1j). that was an sc300 though. anyways my car kept going into limp mode like I had a bad maf and it would fix itself on its own, it never does that anymore though.

now after it warms up it has vary noticeable power loss and it even sounds different, like its pulling timing or something.
things I have done
was throwing code 13 got a new coolant temp sensor didn't change
checked voltage at ecu for knock sensors they were both 2.5v at idle
set tps and made sure it was correct when set while wot and closed
boost leaked checked multiple times and its solid
haven't messed with bov still recirc
tried 2 different fpr's and new z32 fuel filter
put extra grounds from block to chassi and an extra ground on coil pack harness
checked voltage at fuel pump 12 volts
when I put the motor in the timing was set at 20 degrees according to how you look at it rb's its kinda weird depending on the angle you look at while timing it. it had been that way for a few years with no problems im timing by putting my timing light on the white wire at number 1 coil with the timing light hooked up to a jump box for power because my battery is in the trunk. maybe that's all no good and need to make a wire from the coil to the spark plug and use that to time it?

now after about a week it throws coolant temp code again, so I ohm the wiring between sensor and ecu and I doesn't say offline but it reeds o.o ohms. I check the ground and its 3. something.

info about the swap
s1 rb25 mostly stock
I think its an older wiring specialties harness but its a little old now
hks actuator set to 9 psi
n1 thermostat
walbro
pulled from my friends running s13 and about 3 weeks later running in mine
pumped all old gas out of my shell and put new premium in
cx racing front mount
3 inch dp and exhaust

I don't mean to ramble on to run so good and strong sounds good while its warming up, and I don't mean dead cold and romp on it I wait till needle starts to rise on temp and pulls hard all the way to redline, then temp gets halfway up and gets slower and slower till it sounds way different and feels like has no boost just a na motor, still drives smooth though doesn't cut out and super rich. I don't have a wideband but it uses tons of fuel and backfires a little usually when I take my foot off the gas and start coasting.

ive tried everything I can think of and before I rewire my coolant temp sensor to the ecu I figured I would ask. ive been working on this for about a month now

[uhhh-s13 again]

one other weird thing is I hooked up a safc because I wanted to look at timing while driving(which it got late and I didn't hook that wire up lol), but the rpms on the safc are off from my cluster. a few hundred off at idle and as rpms go up it gets more and more off. maybe I hooked it up wrong but I don't think so maybe someone has had this problem.

I have my check engine light hooked up to the cluster because my ecu has no light on it, its been blinking while driving, not a sequence random, on the throttle it comes on, off it goes away sometimes, sometimes it just lit up and sometimes it blinks about a second apart. weird

sorry to drop a bomb guys lol. I know its a lot to read just trying to be specific

[uhhh-s13 again]

No ideas????

[uhhh-s13 again]

I checked my coolant temp sensor the new one I got about a week ago and it was bad. Got a new one ohms were at 2.9 cold brand you the other was 0.0 hot or cold. And now I'm throwing a knock sensor code. I reset the cores drove it home I made it about 20 feet ad check engine light starts blinking again, random blinks I have video if you want. So tomorrow I'll check the ohms on the new coolant temp sensor and see if it is bad already. Not sure why it be getting fried I checked the wiring it's all good. Maybe my ecu is bad?

[supersayianjim]

iam also suffering power loss from my 25 setup.

[uhhh-s13 again]

After warm up?

[PrimeDirective]

what kind of engine management? If you are on a stock ECU find it hard to believe it likes that boost pressure at 9psi. That alone would cause it to pull timing.

[steve shadows]

what kind of engine management? If you are on a stock ECU find it hard to believe it likes that boost pressure at 9psi. That alone would cause it to pull timing.

Great question.

Always should be the first question after (Are you sure you wiring harness is not torn to sh*t?)

Next question is ... what EMS are you using? How is it setup?

And those two questions come after "Are you absolutely sure that every single thing on the car is mechanically sound?"

There ya go haha 3 point check list from a 12 year veteran Tuner.

[Sileighty_85]

Yeah the RB25 stock ECU is garbage, When the ECU senses boost pressure higher than stock it will pull timing and dump fuel to prevent detonation.

def look into getting a aftermarket EMS.

[uhhh-s13 again]

I have checked everything, wiring, grounds, checked sensors.y feeling is it's something small and stupid it's usually is. This motor ran perfect for 2 years at 10psi and ran perfect when pulled to put it in my car I think it's either the ecu or wiring. I either got a brand new and bad coolant temp or my harness messed it up and with another new one I'm still getting code 13. I think I'm going to rewire the coolant temp sensor all the way to the ecu with a new ground. And if that doesn't fix it I'll probably get a new ecu. There's no way to test an ecu is there?

[cotbu]

Redo ignition timing also!

[uhhh-s13 again]

I have like 3 times it's always set right. 15 degrees at about 800 rpm idle

[steve shadows]

Sorry the OP was really long to read. My patience is low I guess lately because I am just so isanenly busy lately haha.

[uhhh-s13 again]

So figured out when I put my motor in I out the vtc plug in the coolant temp sensor spot. The previous owner swore it was right which it isn't hard to get backwards the the same plugs. I just followed the wires back to the ecu and figured it out, switched them and it fixed it. Now all I gotta do figure out which knock sensor is back I'm still getting that code

[uhhh-s13 again]

No problems Steve, I always see people asking for more info so I tried to be as discriptive as possible lol