Noob KA-T Turbo Build

[simmyhsu]

Hello Everyone,

I finally decided to turbo my 93 KA24de! Below is a list of things I think I need for my mild turbo goal of 250whp on a stock 93 240sx with a KA24de with 140,000 miles (Healthy motor). Please feel free to add anything that I might have left out. The car already has a Tomei 2 way LSD and a Spec Stage 2 clutch (300ft-lb), Stance coilovers, sway bars and XXR 002s 16x8. This will be a DD-car and weekend drift car. Also I have been drifting since 2006 and I drifted a Miata before the 240 (Thank God for Wheel base and power!).

This is my first turbo build so please make it as straight foward and reliable as possible but still be reasonably priced. I have read/research a lot of post on this very topic and this is what I got from it:

Isis turbo kit (RS3871 turbo) and oil lines and tap
Greddy BOV
Enthalpy ROM tune
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs Heat Range 8
Z32 MAF w/plug
Five0 550cc injectors
Walbro fuel pump
Megan Racing Type-2 Black dual tip exhaust (low key)
Isis radiator w/fans
Boost and Oil temp gauge
AEM Air to fuel ratio gauge


Anything else?

Thanks!
Simeon
NooB

Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:27 pm
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[OnTheChip]

I suggest you consider a tunable ECU, such as the NismotronicSA System (http://www.nismotronic.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=29), especially since you're planning dual purpose use. NismotronicSA will give you programmable map switching and dual boost control levels, along with many other desirable features.

Dave

[simmyhsu]

I suggest you consider a tunable ECU, such as the NismotronicSA System (http://www.nismotronic.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=29), especially since you're planning dual purpose use. NismotronicSA will give you programmable map switching and dual boost control levels, along with many other desirable features.

Dave

Ya I will probably upgrade to a full standalone (Mega Squirt) when I build the motor and up the boost and get crazy. Also another reason for me setting a power goal of 250whp was to help keep the car..some what streetable lol.

[eek]

Reliable with made in China/Taiwan parts? Never understood the point of building a motor (spending all that time and money) and put cheap China/Taiwan parts on the car.

[Boostd2]

Reliable with made in China/Taiwan parts? Never understood the point of building a motor (spending all that time and money) and put cheap China/Taiwan parts on the car.

He's not building a motor, he's just turbocharging it.
And by the looks of it, it's def a budget build. I know what you mean by cheap chinese parts being reliable. it's the old car rule of 3 : Cheap,Fast,Reliable. Choose 2.

The only chinese parts I see on the parts list is the turbocharger and it's supporting mods. Of which the turbo can be easily replaced with a "genuine" brand one later on if desired. Heck, I've personally seen eBay turbo's last longer than Precision turbo's (drag & Drift). It's all in the setup & tune. So make sure your setup is good.
Make sure the turbo is getting proper oil feed and drain piping (might want to invest in quality hoses & fittings), and remember to change oil regularly! ultimately it's engine's blood.

[simmyhsu]

Thank guys!

[Kingtal0n]

I dont like the turbo choice.


I would either go top mount cast manifold + T3/T04E 50 trim or smaller (63 area radius) brand new garret turbocharger,

or,

go bottom mount T-28 used from an S14 sr20det and pray one of the iffy bottom tubulars holds up.

I prefer the T3 for a few reasons,
1. you get a cast manifold
2. it will spool a little bit slower and the air will be a bit cooler which overall may extend the life of your engine
3. no water lines to fool with

remember to shift before 6000rpm, use synthetic oil, run a proper PCV system, boost leak check frequently, dial the timing at the distributor back 2-3* and use a SAFC with 370CC SR20DET injectors around 11.5:1 on a wideband from a dynojet at the tailpipe for best results (in car wideband reads: 11.8:1) 10PSI of boost max and invest in a water/methanol injection system for absolute best safety and a clean engine.

[m-drift]

I dont like the turbo choice.


I would either go top mount cast manifold + T3/T04E 50 trim or smaller (63 area radius) brand new garret turbocharger,

or,

go bottom mount T-28 used from an S14 sr20det and pray one of the iffy bottom tubulars holds up.

I prefer the T3 for a few reasons,
1. you get a cast manifold
2. it will spool a little bit slower and the air will be a bit cooler which overall may extend the life of your engine
3. no water lines to fool with

remember to shift before 6000rpm, use synthetic oil, run a proper PCV system, boost leak check frequently, dial the timing at the distributor back 2-3* and use a SAFC with 370CC SR20DET injectors around 11.5:1 on a wideband from a dynojet at the tailpipe for best results (in car wideband reads: 11.8:1) 10PSI of boost max and invest in a water/methanol injection system for absolute best safety and a clean engine.

im a knoob tho water/methanol injection. whats the reason for it?
I was thinking about doin this same setup

[Kingtal0n]

im a knoob tho water/methanol injection. whats the reason for it?
I was thinking about doin this same setup


1. It cools the incoming air leaving more headroom for aggressive timing
1.5 on a turbocharged engine the effect of #1 may also lead to the additional benefit of more torque at similar timing settings
2. It helps clean up the carbon and gives everything a "wash" leaving your engine shiny and new looking inside


a very worthwhile investment considering the cleaning effect, even on a naturally aspirated engine, if you intend to keep it for a looong time.

[PowerDrifter]

what you do is buy my kit and tune the nistune. im in long beach as well

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=5573527#post5573527