Help with sr with upgrades =]

[chaldean408]

whats up Everybody.
****s13 sr20det in a s14 kouki****
so check it. i crashed lightly not long ago. since then i upgraded the following.

PBM flca + tension rod combo
PBM inner tie
SPL outer tie
new steering rack (used) but better than the one i had after i crashed.
CX racing fmic
gt2871r turbo (with new coolant lines)

so my issue is, Im having trouble with the idle and boost. it feels like the wastegate doesnt want to open so i shift early everytime @ about 4-5 rpm and i dont want to stay on the throttle because i dont want to over boost and blow my shit up.

also when i come to a stop or clutch in, the car drops idle til the car dies or it boggs at literately 100 rpm then jumps up and down between 400-1.5k and stays jumping up and down for about 10 secs before it dies or finds an idle around 800?

any suggestions? I'm thinking im in need of bigger injectors 550cc, a z32 maf and a tune of some sort?

[ultimateirving]

Im thinking you have a cut coupler from crashing
and its got a leak

[chaldean408]

Im thinking you have a cut coupler from crashing
and its got a leak

I actually got brand new pipes & couplers when I installed the fmic
but I haven't done a boost test yet. I should probably start there?

[jr_ss]

Yep, you should... Then continue on with timing and MAF voltage.

[Ka-t in progress]

After checking what everyone has suggested,another option to look into is the iacv,and how far is your maf/filter from your turbo.

[chaldean408]

sooo i just bought a AEM v1 standalone ecu, JWT top feed fuel rail with evo x 550cc injectors.
The guy said the ecu was set back to its stock s13 sr red top set up. i have a blacktop. would the ecu still function? plug n play status.?
my buddies keep telling me about sending off my stock ecu to get flashed, im curious upon what other options i have.
i've got to do some research myself.

shoot yur .02 if u got them. thanks.

[steve shadows]

sooo i just bought a AEM v1 standalone ecu, JWT top feed fuel rail with evo x 550cc injectors.
The guy said the ecu was set back to its stock s13 sr red top set up. i have a blacktop. would the ecu still function? plug n play status.?
my buddies keep telling me about sending off my stock ecu to get flashed, im curious upon what other options i have.
i've got to do some research myself.

shoot yur .02 if u got them. thanks.

Wait you bought a Top Feed Rail? Why?

Why are you guys buying top feed rails and top feed injectors?

Just go with the Nissan Drop ins? Is it because it looked cooler in a magazine engine shot of the engine? This drives me nuts.

The High Impedence injectors are solid as a rock. Dealing with Top Feeds on an engine designed for Side feed, even with a standalone is annoying.

Stay as close to what the engineers at Nissan designed the car for. Then improve from there.

I have been tuning SRs and other engines for almost 12 years now...

I live by this rule and cars I touch or consult on always make more power, more reliably and dyno better, drift better and have more throttle response.

I mean for 550s???? too? I mean if you had to go up to 1200CC for Ethanol and you were verging on 900 whp for a drag setup I could understand why you would do this...

[steve shadows]

My advice is sell the top feed rail and injectors. Get a set of 550 or 740 side feeds with a stock rail and fuel pressure regulator. Throw the stock ECU in the trash or sell it if you still have it and go with the AEM standalone.

...So you can learn basic tuning...or get a custom tune without having to physically send your ecu out everytime you change an engine mod.

This is why I started offering the remote tuning packages. Because people by a 500-750 Re-Flash on their stock ecu and then every time they want to change a major engine component they have to ship the ECU out to some godforsaken place where a guy is inhaling way waay too much sodering fumes all day and then wait weeks or months to get it back.

This is why I suggest - just go with the standalone. Not to toot my own horn but I do the remote mapping - custom fit for your setup for around 75-85 and re-edits are free up to 3 times. Car doesn't have to be undrivable and you have a REAL standalone EMS system. Although it's double the cost for the Eprom burned "Flashed" ecu. It will be more robust and you will make more HP then any one size fits all - I made it in my basement eprom re-flash.

Seen this a million times and tested it on dynos thousands of times. Get the standalone or keep the AEM you have...get a tuner who can do it remotely to get you rolling and then learn and grow from there.

No point is going backwards to "Flash" eprom land. That was a JWT solution for 300ZX owners in the 80s - not a real solution to a real high power build on a car if you ask me these days.

Thanks and if you have any other tech questions email me [email protected] - I am barely on here lately because I have been so busy.

:2c:

[inopsey]

My advice is sell the top feed rail and injectors. Get a set of 550 or 740 side feeds with a stock rail and fuel pressure regulator. Throw the stock ECU in the trash or sell it if you still have it and go with the AEM standalone.

...So you can learn basic tuning...or get a custom tune without having to physically send your ecu out everytime you change an engine mod.

This is why I started offering the remote tuning packages. Because people by a 500-750 Re-Flash on their stock ecu and then every time they want to change a major engine component they have to ship the ECU out to some godforsaken place where a guy is inhaling way waay too much sodering fumes all day and then wait weeks or months to get it back.

This is why I suggest - just go with the standalone. Not to toot my own horn but I do the remote mapping - custom fit for your setup for around 75-85 and re-edits are free up to 3 times. Car doesn't have to be undrivable and you have a REAL standalone EMS system. Although it's double the cost for the Eprom burned "Flashed" ecu. It will be more robust and you will make more HP then any one size fits all - I made it in my basement eprom re-flash.

Seen this a million times and tested it on dynos thousands of times. Get the standalone or keep the AEM you have...get a tuner who can do it remotely to get you rolling and then learn and grow from there.

No point is going backwards to "Flash" eprom land. That was a JWT solution for 300ZX owners in the 80s - not a real solution to a real high power build on a car if you ask me these days.

Thanks and if you have any other tech questions email me [email protected] - I am barely on here lately because I have been so busy.

:2c:

what a bunch of bs. you sold me a $100 'remote tune' that would of destroyed my engine in a matter of minutes because it ran so lean. also the timing was retarded 5-10 degrees which made the car drive like shit, get shit gas milage; then refused to correct the situation. you couldnt even get the injector dwell times right for tomei 740 injectors which are published on their site. send this fool your money at your own risk

[steve shadows]

whats up Everybody.
****s13 sr20det in a s14 kouki****
so check it. i crashed lightly not long ago. since then i upgraded the following.

PBM flca + tension rod combo
PBM inner tie
SPL outer tie
new steering rack (used) but better than the one i had after i crashed.
CX racing fmic
gt2871r turbo (with new coolant lines)

so my issue is, Im having trouble with the idle and boost. it feels like the wastegate doesnt want to open so i shift early everytime @ about 4-5 rpm and i dont want to stay on the throttle because i dont want to over boost and blow my shit up.

also when i come to a stop or clutch in, the car drops idle til the car dies or it boggs at literately 100 rpm then jumps up and down between 400-1.5k and stays jumping up and down for about 10 secs before it dies or finds an idle around 800?

any suggestions? I'm thinking im in need of bigger injectors 550cc, a z32 maf and a tune of some sort?

Before you go upgrading parts...the setup should be running fine w/o any more upgraded parts. If the base-line is off then there is a core mechanical issue with the build. Also if you are going to upgrade injectors and maf I suggest at the very least a PFC. I wouldn't go with a traditional piggy back. I've been looking for some lower cost options for some people I have been consulting with lately on builds but just spend the money now so you don't have to spend it three times over trying different piggy backs and rom-flashes in the meantime.

Most of the time with issues like this it's a timing issue + a boost leak + a possible maf wiring issue or just wiring issue in general.

The harnesses that come over with swap kits or that are already installed on dirty engine swaps are usually so torn up that I would surprised if you didn't have issues.

The first thing I suggest on any car, purchased with an SR already in it, if any of the wiring has been spliced into or tampered with near the ecu plug or anywhere else in the harness is to throw the engine harness away and get a new one.

It will add years to your life lol and then get a decent EMS before dumping money into cosmetic mods for the car. :2c:

[sil80dude]

Hey buddy check the preload on the actuator. If that's not tight it will give these simptoms.