Checking status on KA24DE

[akaina240]

thinking of going ka-t and i know its reccomended to rebuild it before turboing, but damn too expensive for a rebuild.
what can i do to check the status on my engine to see if its worth turboing it?
thanks!

[mechanicalmoron]

Compression test.

[akaina240]

is that enough ?

[Kingtal0n]

1. mileage
2. color of the oil
3. compression
4. condition of the seals (visual external inspection)
5. leakdown test
6. unusual noises

If yes 1-6 then do a tune up. Dyno the vehicle to factory redline with all OEM equipment and check your numbers. Does the engine produce factory ratings?

Now you are ready for 7psi of boost.

[pablito_s13]

its tubro time

[1ZlowZ]

Its better to rebuild the engine now than have shiny new turbo parts on for a couple weeks then when you blow it youll have to pay more for the rebuild.

[Kingtal0n]

Its better to rebuild the engine now than have shiny new turbo parts on for a couple weeks then when you blow it youll have to pay more for the rebuild.

I disagree strongly against anyone trying to rebuild the KA engine without a good reason.

Going turbo is not a good reason to rebuild. Not unless you own a machine shop, and you are rich.

Feel free to ask why, I'd be happy to write my 2 page report about why it isnt worth doing.

[dankd]

Im curious ^

[Kingtal0n]

Im curious ^

#1 most rebuilds fail due to lack of proper attention of detail.
#2 The cost of rebuilding a random 4-cylinder engine, in general, with higher than OEM quality parts, is going to be upwards of $2000 if done properly. And that is just the rotating assembly.

#3 assuming your rotating assembly is actually good to go, your next problem is this: the factory engine, which would have been fine at 200 horsepower, is now capable of 400+, which will probably require head work.

#4 so now you need to spend another $1500 on head work and valve train components. More parts and machine work to do wrong.

#5 if you actually made it this far, (most do not) with a fresh bottom end and valvetrain ready for action, look back at your list of expenditures: you spent around $5000 for an engine between 1.8-2.5L of displacement that will hopefully give you back 400-500 horsepower... and realize that a stock bottom end (read: OEM internals) 2jz will handle more power, reliably.

Thats a quick nutshell for random 4-cylinder engines of any manufacturer, not my 2 page report. There are many flaws because its quite short. I hope to generate a bit of interest and gain the attention of many trolls in the process... and I will happily shoot down any and all objections. Because I am bored at work.

[Driftwire]

I didnt rebuild my KA-T setup and im on 370cc injectors at 10psi on a T25 and my shit runs perfect. Not worth the rebuild!