fully building sr20det few things im unsure about please help

[Slippedslideways951]

ok gunna keep it short as possible and on topic of tech talk. i will make a separate thread for my build for those interested. okay to the point im going threw marco at
sr20store in socal to do the build. heres the list of parts then I will ask my questions. s13 redtop block and head these parts are already purchased and at the shop waiting for the motor to come back from the machine shop.
head: Brian crower 264/264 cams BC valves, springs, and retainers along with circuit sport (ram)rocker arm stoppers
Block: oem crankshaft, eagle rods 750hp rating, and cp 87mm 8.5:1. with a 1.5mm apexi head gasket with arp main & head studs.

the question I have is he said it will be drivable when I go pick it up but it could possibly have a funny idle because the larger cam.

1.will running the stock tune/ecu he sets me up with be okay to brake in the motor and daily it for a month or two?

plan is to go for the aem ems and a tune at church tunning if it all goes as planned within the next 2 months.or would you recommend waiting for a z32 maf, bigger injectors and anything else needed to support the power being made. and just have church brake in the motor and do the tune all at once for better engine life.

2. I know theres no definite answer to this one because every motors different but whats your guess on actual rwhp with it being fully built internally without a tune? no need to answer with a smart remark just personally wondering.

3. with all variables ive given what do you think or what kind of reliable power rating would you be comfortable pushing it too?

4. can I get a list of what you would upgrade before even attempting to make 3-400hp as in what size injectors, maf ect.?

thanks for your time i will be getting a build journal going asap for pics of progress its a 89 pignose hatch completely stock when purchased a week ago but the 5lug conversion and wildwood BBK is the next installation once I get the motor completed by marco at the sr20store. please any comment or suggestion will be greatly appreciated as this is my first jdm turbod built:hyper: car most my car experience is around my 78 nova or older carbureted chevy engines lol:hyper:

[TheRealSy90]

With no turbo or tune you're going to make a lot less horsepower than stock. I would guess like 100hp to the crank.

Also, rocker arm stoppers are a waste of money and cause more damage if a rocker manages to throw. Run dual rocker arm guides and you will never throw a rocker again and it's easy to do and cheap.

[Slippedslideways951]

I have the stock s13 redtop I believe t25 or 28. But I wanted to know if Im running the built motor on a stock tune/ecu if I will be harming the engine daily driving tell I'm able to get the aem ems, new turbo, fuel injectors, and maf. Then take it for a tune?

[Slippedslideways951]

With the 87mm piston and 1.5mm head gasket the compression ratio should be different along with the larger 264 cam. I guess I should just take it to get a tune as soon as the motor is finished. i will just have to use the stock turbo. And get it retuned when I upgrade the turbo

[TheRealSy90]

Why even drive it on the stock turbo in that case? Wait until you get the bigger turbo you want.


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[Tom N]

With the 87mm piston and 1.5mm head gasket the compression ratio should be different along with the larger 264 cam. I guess I should just take it to get a tune as soon as the motor is finished. i will just have to use the stock turbo. And get it retuned when I upgrade the turbo

The only thing changing your compression is the 1.5mm gasket. It is lowering your compression and in turn making less power. Not sure why you did a 1.5mm gasket with stock 8.5:1 compression pistons.

[Slippedslideways951]

Tom from what I thought i understood by lowering the compression I can raise the boost psi a bit. Maybe 1.5 was a little over kill but was hoping with lower compression it would be able to reach my goal of 3-400whp with out as much stress on the engine I'm probably completely wrong with thinking that.

And my car will be finished and need to be picked up before I get the turbo, standalone, and injectors. I Was hoping I could atleast drive it back to the house aprox. 45mile trip and not cause any damage or issues.

Once I get my turbo, injectors, and standalone by this months end. She can get tossed on the trailor to go get tuned but tell then she need to come back to my house and I'd personally liked to drive it home but not at the expense of damaging any of my new shiny parts lol!

[TheRealSy90]

Do not risk it. and there is no reason to run less than stock compression with those power goals. There is never a reason to do that honestly.


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[whereda40at]

To answer other questions...
to reach the 300-400 power range you are talking about, you will only need 800cc injectors, gt28 turbo (either 71 or 76) .64 or .86 a/r, got with a standalone and don't even get a maf, power fc d-jetro is perfect.

Well just go here and do my old set up....

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/351870-1-4-record-t-2-turbo-stick-car-93-octane.html

[Slippedslideways951]

Okay i was never under the impresion a lower compresion will hurt it. yes less power for now but also more room for future power? 300-400 is my goal with the amount I have to spend building the car and I know I can easily get it there. If I can get 600 with a bigger turbo,injectors and tune great. I was looking at the gtx line and the gtx2867r won't be maxed out with me making around 400 but need to do a little more research on those.

[Tom N]

Lower compression will always be less power. You can't just make up for it by running more boost as you can run that boost at the factory compression. Trying to make more power by using less compression but higher boost levels is counter productive and honestly just dumb.
And I for one would not want to use a thicker head gasket then I need to

A 300-400 hp set up is a broad range. You should narrow that down more to 300-350 or 350-400.
I can tell you a stock long block S15 with 750 injectors, fmic, 255 pump, 3in exhaust, 20g turbo and a rom tune from RS Enthalpy will make 400hp

[Seraphim38]

I suggested the GTX line via PM for a variety of reasons, but if you want the potential to go past 400 I would suggest going up to a 3071, or like me get the 3076.

If you are sticking with a 2871 you can get an Enthalpy ROM tune super easily. Much beyond the standard 350whp 2871 setup, you will need a standalone. And I wouldn't suggest passing 350 with less than 800cc injectors. I bought Injector Dynamics 1,000cc top feeds and they are awesome in performance, idle and tuning flexibility. They are top feed though so you would need to buy a fuel rail, fittings and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Some standalone computers have specific types of injectors that they will or will not work with, so you have to mind that as well.

[Slippedslideways951]

Oh well regarudless the engine is built I now have to live with the choice of a lower comp ratio. it is still a fully built motor that'll reliablely push 400hp atleast I hope so.

[Seraphim38]

lower compression by a half point isn't going to end the world. In practical terms it will mean that the engine may have a very small amount more lag but you will be able to push a little more boost before detonation. The difference may actually be unnoticeable.

There's nothing really wrong with a half point of compression one way or the other; it just needs to be kept in mind when tuning. Lower compression will be safer than trying to push boost into a higher compression motor.