rich idle, lean in boost, ecu light always on

[Diehardsr20]

I've been diving into countless threads over the past month to figure out what is going on now. After getting the car to start in my last thread I've ran into problems. I've also invested in a wideband.

So my problem is this :
When you start the car it hits an afr of 14.8 then within 5 seconds will immediately go below 10.0 (way friggin rich). Under load it will go above 2500rpms but anything above 0 psi under load and I lean out above 17.0. I've checked my tps (.48 closed 4.89 wot), coolant temp sensor (I have 2x) (cold 2.0 ohms hot 0.8 ohms), maf sensor (12.4 volts pin a ((white/black wire)), I've checked for boost leaks with water and dawn (leak will produce bubbles) as well as checking with ether (change in idle would be noticeable with a leak) and found no leaks, and me ecu will not let me pull codes nor connect a console port. The ecu check light (little red led) stays on continuously. I used to be able to pull codes but now I can't cause of this.

Redtop sr20det
Wiring specialties harness
Nismo fpr
Fmic
Walbro 255lph
Stock ecu 62

Everything I've tried (new plugs, check timing, unpluging cts then plugging it back in, etc) will fix it for a day or a couple hours then its right back to not reading codes and dumping fuel at idle leaning at boost. Any insight?

[Diehardsr20]

Here's a new one. In this condition it will start without the maf and connecting or disconnecting the maf while its running has no affect on idle. If I unplug my tps, or iacv, my idle changes.if I unplug my cts or my maf nothing changes.

[Diehardsr20]

Ok. So after disconnecting my ground for about an hour it will start up (code 55) and run perfect when cold or at op temps. It seems to do fine for anywhere from 5 mins to a day or two then randomly while driving my car will die then pick right back up and I watch my cruising afr go from 14.8 to 11.2 afr. And my idle afr go from 16.2 to 10.0 or lower. When this happens im unable to pull codes (red light is lit up regardless of switch position AND is on while driving.

I should also mention i have the battery relocated in the trunk with 2 gauge wire running the positive and 4 gauge wire for my ground bolted to my rear strut tower. Should i add another ground directly from the battervto the intake manifold and reground my maf?.

[Diehardsr20]

Ok don't know if I fixed it but this what I found out. I tore open my ecu and behold it has a daughterboard. I pulled out a jumped cj2 back to cj1 on the board. I then removed the daughterboard turning it into a stock ecu again. Seems fine so far. Afrs are reading normal and I'm pulling code 55 now

[cotbu]

most of the time, when the ecu has the red led lit during operation, it's a faulty daughterboard install. if you want to try and use that board? check over the solder work, it probably just needs to be cleaned up. I remember being in a heated debate about this same thing.