cold start issue sr20 555cc tuned

[s13mikesr20]

So its been hitting high 20s degrees f*

Whenever it gets this cold my car will ether flood out or run very rich 10afrs on 25%throttle

I'm looking at my Alexi safc2 and its throwing 16% added fuel on 10-30% throttle which shouldn't happen

Sr20 safc2 enthlpy tune
555cc injectors
Z32
Bkr7e


Problem flooding on start up and running very rich when cold....

When car does warm up it and I turn it off and back on it will run just fine and or like it should

I unplugged the safc 2 and ran it same problem

So what I'm thinking is that its so cold the temp or maf or 02 sensor is telling the car to run rich as fuck

Has anyone else had this problem and what's your opinion on what you think I should do

There is NO MAJIOR PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR just this god dam issue whenever it gets 45f or below

[s13mikesr20]

My other question is

What sensors are involved with rich to lean Afr on this sr

So far I'm thinking
02 sensor
Coolant temp sensor for ecu
Mad
T.p.s
I.a.c.v

Just wondering if I'm missing something

[s13mikesr20]

Maf*..........

[MrMigs]

Hi 20's in Las Vegas?

Park car in garage. I like to keep a comforter on top of mine to keep it warm for starting in cold weather. I tell my friends the same thing. Just think if that was you and you're expected to run naked out in the winter snow 1 second after waking up from bed.

[racepar1]

I would try a new coolant temp sensor. Also, check the connector. Those connectors are known to corrode inside and cause funny readings. Realistically though 20* is probably outside of the temperature range that the car was ever designed to operate at. I would be worried about starving the engine for oil on super cold starts like that as well. Thick-ass freezing oil doesn't circulate very well.

[inopsey]

Realistically though 20* is probably outside of the temperature range that the car was ever designed to operate at.

i really hope your kidding

[s13mikesr20]

i sprayed electric cleaner in all connections dealing with this issue same issue happened

ill try the coolant temp sensor but...i dont think it will be that easy never is :(

lol has to be impossible hahahaha


car runs liuke a shit pissed ape when we have cali weather or when its hot outside

[redline racer510]

It might be so cold that the maf hot wire isn't heating up enough to read air volume accurately thus giving you rich condition. Just a thought.

[racepar1]

i really hope your kidding

Not at all. ESPECIALLY considering that he's got a janky device that alters the inputs to the computer to trick it into delivering a different amount of fuel than what it's programmed for (SAFC2). Extreme temperatures regularly affect electronics in undesirable ways.

[inopsey]

Not at all. ESPECIALLY considering that he's got a janky device that alters the inputs to the computer to trick it into delivering a different amount of fuel than what it's programmed for (SAFC2). Extreme temperatures regularly affect electronics in undesirable ways.

i agree that the safc is probably the problem but in now way is -6c (20f) considered an extreme temperature. -10c i was able to start my old stock sr20 setup with an actual lawnmower battery with little issue.

[racepar1]

i agree that the safc is probably the problem but in now way is -6c (20f) considered an extreme temperature. -10c i was able to start my old stock sr20 setup with an actual lawnmower battery with little issue.

Yeah yeah, we can argue interpretation all we want. Realistically I don't see any possible way that BELOW freezing is not extreme. Should the car operate at that temperature? Absolutely. But it's very likely to affect electrical circuits, especially considering the age of the car.

[s13mikesr20]

ok children loosing the topic here

update

SHES ALIVE RUNNING LIKE A CHAMP

BUT

cant seam to find the cold start wire for the black top series sr20s not sure if its pin number 34 like the redtop and searching doesn't help a lot of misleading stuff

I tested voltage on said orange wire nothing :( so.... drove it to work no probs

when it started like crap again before all of this..missing in cylinders and such I sprayed electric cleaner in the tps sensor and the next start up after that it runs like factory butter down katy perrys bobbers so my next question


this orange wire were is it j4 ecu blacktop sr20

tps sensor replacement

other question
does the cold start wire share a circuit with tps hmmmmm

[s13mikesr20]

11.5 volt to maf..... Dafuq

Its the maf

Checked the wireing rewired and same result

Getting confused as fuck grrrrr

[Mikester]

Could very well be the tune (something in the cold loop not set properly?). Hopefully, the Z32 MAFS is OEM Nissan and not the ISIS knockoff- the ISIS Z32 MAFS's are known for causing weird shit- they're junk.

First thing I'd recommend you do is throw the SAFC-II in the garbage along with the MAFS if it's an ISIS. If the MAFS is OEM Nissan, I recommend you contact Enthalpy & tell them what you're experiencing.

It's been down in the teens/single digits here, and my 240 starts/runs fine (built SR, larger turbine, 850cc injectors, etc)... Although, it IS a cold-blooded bitch until it warms up- I won't even pull out of the parking lot until the coolant temp is above 60*C because of this.

SR's were designed for many extremes; and daily driving just like most other Nissan platforms. If any of you have ever been to northern Japan, you'd know that 20* deg temps are nothing to fret... Let alone all the SR-powered 200SX's in northern Europe.

My vote is either the MAFS or the cold loop settings from Enthalpy. If it runs fine when it's warm outside (warmer than 20*), then everything is prolly fine.

Again, lose the SAFC-II- you are doing yourself no favors by having it- Especially since the ECU is already tuned.

[s13mikesr20]

Unplugged safc2 same issue*

Safc2 from apexi is just there to monitor throttle and ish

Maf is OEM n62 or n60 I forget but its a jecs maf

I'm only getting 11.5 volts to it though thats what I'm worried about not enough power to heat the sensor

[Mikester]

Unplugged safc2 same issue*

Safc2 from apexi is just there to monitor throttle and ish

Maf is OEM n62 or n60 I forget but its a jecs maf

I'm only getting 11.5 volts to it though thats what I'm worried about not enough power to heat the sensor

I know you unplugged it with the same issue... Was just saying that those things are garbage and can cause some crazy bad stuff to happen... I am not a fan of ANYTHING spliced into my main harness; and never will be.

Glad your MAFS is a good JECS. The power going to your MAFS may be indicative of a slight short across the element; which would account for why it's not able to reach the correct temp. But I'm still thinking it's somewhere in the tune.

[s13mikesr20]

I agree with you in that subject when tuners tune for power some neglect to tune for everyday use and reliability I contacted enthalpy about this issue and

I can't put another 12.v source on the power wire for the maf can I hmmmm

[Mikester]

^^I wouldn't recommend that. If anything, I'd see about getting/borrowing a second MAFS to troubleshoot. Worse case scenario, you'll have a spare.

Still seems weird that once you get to operating temp, you can turn the car off & back on and everything is fine. To me, this says it's in the ECU (not properly transitioning between cold/warm loops)... but take with a grain- I'm just a guy and not a certified mechanic or tuner.

[s13mikesr20]

So IMA trace the wire all the way back see if there's any interference

Will update soon

[racepar1]

11.5 volts with the car running or with the key on? Realistically 11.5 volts is plenty to power the MAF. I would be worried if it was like 10 volts or something. I think you're wasting time tracing that wire.

Also, un-plugging the SAFC isn't necessarily completely removing it. Do you have some sort of plug and play harness for it or is it hard-wired? If it's hard wired, which I suspect, it is INTERRUPTING the MAF signal. With it simply un-plugged the ECU may not be getting a MAF signal at all. Now, if you've got some plug-in harness and are removing it completely then that's a different story.

[s13mikesr20]

Gonna snag a new maf

Wish me luck


If its the maf....

Will give a new meaning to

Check your maf

Cause maf seems to be thrown a lot in this form lol

[racepar1]

Gonna snag a new maf

Wish me luck


If its the maf....

Will give a new meaning to

Check your maf

Cause maf seems to be thrown a lot in this form lol

It is very rare for Nissan MAF sensors to actually go bad. 9 times out of 10 the issue was mis-diagnosed. Same with "bad" ECUs...

[s13mikesr20]

i can see it being the maf more then a ecu


this maf especially it looks like it has seen better days

[Mikester]

Like I said- Worse case, you'll end up with a spare MAFS ;)

I got my PFC only after chasing my tail and systematically replacing nearly every sensor in the engine bay... only to find that the ECU was cooked the whiole time... Expensive and a valuable lesson, but ended up with a very reliable motor all said & done haha!

[s13mikesr20]

It is very rare for Nissan MAF sensors to actually go bad. 9 times out of 10 the issue was mis-diagnosed. Same with "bad" ECUs...

you win the cookie

ecu was busted

sent it back to enthalpy in florida :boink:

cant wait to get her back!!!!:wiggle:

[racepar1]

you win the cookie

ecu was busted

sent it back to enthalpy in florida :boink:

cant wait to get her back!!!!:wiggle:

ACTUALLY Mikester won the cookie. I said it probably wasn't either the MAF or the ECU. If your MAF looks beat up I would look for another at a good price anyways though.

[s13mikesr20]

ACTUALLY Mikester won the cookie. I said it probably wasn't either the MAF or the ECU. If your MAF looks beat up I would look for another at a good price anyways though.

MAF was replaced anyways

and mikester is the winner winner