Automatic SR

[Silviastunter]

hey guys and gals. i am collecting parts for a 5 speed swap for my coupe. the previous owner had put in a auto SR... i know there alot of write ups for the swap but my question is is it going to be different from just the KA tranny swap. so far these are the parts i have

KA tranny. and blown SR tranny going to use the SR bell housing.
Tranny cross member.
full clutch kit.
clutch pedal. (just going to cut the brake pedal)
Master cylinder and slave. for KA? hopefully will work for SR?
5 speed Driveline
Going to use auto ecu. heard it will work?
and then was going to pick up the Agency Power auto to manual conversion clutch line.

and input or anything im missing would be much appreciated.

[Kingtal0n]

What computer? 63? Its a redtop? If so yes, a 63 will work fine. But there are subtle differences. I think there is no fuel cut, or a higher fuel (rpm) which makes atmospheric bypass impossible to use. So recirculate it.

As to the transmission... I have heard that is quite a job, swapping bell housings.

[Mikester]

As to the transmission... I have heard that is quite a job, swapping bell housings.

HAHAHAHA!

OP, you're going to all the trouble & spending the money on everything else- just get a proper brake/clutch pedal setup- they are all over Ebay.

KA 5-spd master, slave, driveshaft & crossmember plug & play.

Along with the clutch kit, make sure you get the pilot bushing for the 5-spd tranny as well; otherwise you will hear a horrible groaning sound whenever you disengage the clutch. Also, I'm not sure if there is a difference in flywheels between auto & manual.

BTW this is engine tech, not tranny swap tech.

[VegasDrifterS13]

HAHAHAHA!

OP, you're going to all the trouble & spending the money on everything else- just get a proper brake/clutch pedal setup- they are all over Ebay.

KA 5-spd master, slave, driveshaft & crossmember plug & play.

Along with the clutch kit, make sure you get the pilot bushing for the 5-spd tranny as well; otherwise you will hear a horrible groaning sound whenever you disengage the clutch. Also, I'm not sure if there is a difference in flywheels between auto & manual.

BTW this is engine tech, not tranny swap tech.

Really Dude.... You dont know if the AUTO And Manual Flywheels are different. ROFLMAO. Damn....

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[the_strange]

HAHAHAHA!

OP, you're going to all the trouble & spending the money on everything else- just get a proper brake/clutch pedal setup- they are all over Ebay.

KA 5-spd master, slave, driveshaft & crossmember plug & play.

Along with the clutch kit, make sure you get the pilot bushing for the 5-spd tranny as well; otherwise you will hear a horrible groaning sound whenever you disengage the clutch. Also, I'm not sure if there is a difference in flywheels between auto & manual.

BTW this is engine tech, not tranny swap tech.

Just a heads up, automatic transmissions don't use a flywheel. So you will need to get one for the swap.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[Silviastunter]

Yes I have a flywheel lol couldn't tell of mikester was being serious about that last part. Thanks anyways.

[Mikester]

Really Dude.... You dont know if the AUTO And Manual Flywheels are different. ROFLMAO. Damn....

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Just a heads up, automatic transmissions don't use a flywheel. So you will need to get one for the swap.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

Yes I have a flywheel lol couldn't tell of mikester was being serious about that last part. Thanks anyways.

Actually- I had no idea. Never gave it much thought. All my 'fun' cars have been MT cars... My current build was auto/manual swap when I got it from the PO... and every car I've ever removed, or helped remove a tranny from has been an MT. Thanks to you all and Google, I learned something new today.

Glad to have been this thread's entertainment :D

[zurud]

Auto use flexplate

[Kingtal0n]

how do you get 1500 posts on a car forum without know what a flex plate is

HAHAHAHA!


how2play we both find each other's posts hilarious.

When properly setup, an auto makes a street car or race car very fun. You really should give them a chance. My favorite is the 700R4 chevrolet trans, it's non computer controlled so it can be installed on almost anything (you wouldn't want to put it on an SR20 but it would go nicely behind a 500 horsepower 2JZ or LSx).

It will use more gas, yes. But it will also be faster, and more consistent. Sorry to say it but an auto will make for a much quicker car, especially a street car, significantly notable. The reason we avoid auto's (or should avoid auto) on 4-cylinder daily driver engines above 300 horsepower is because you notice the losses more, they absorb more power and make more heat with higher stalls to spend more time at higher rpms, and with a 4-cylinder you are trying to squeeze every available ounce of power making an auto less desirable. Keeping the engine at higher rpm with a manual transmission is not difficult in our 240's because of steep rear gearing. On an engine like the LSx you would be more interested in taking advantage of the low/mid-range available torque, that will be absent at 3000rpm from a 500 horsepower 4-cylinder, so using a numerically lower rear gearing is desirable, lowering overall cruise RPM in the process for the heavy rotating parts involved in the V8 to help with fuel economy (where it would be less of an issue with a 4-cylinder as they generally use parts that weigh less). This will also allow you to use less stall in the torque converter.

This is all for street car orientation. Once you start thinking about strict drag car straight line performance you no longer care about fuel economy and the rules change.
I am only speaking from the perspective of economy. Something else to take into consideration is the final gearing of many T-56 transmissions, which is .5:1 in some years. If you do the math, a 4.11 rear gear is no longer an opposing factor to economy. Even a 4.34 would be acceptable. Because of having only 4 forward gears, the LSx factory automatics are more restricted with respect to rear differential ratio. Or should I say, more sensitive to when considering economy. I would rather have torque from 3000-6000 and use a turbocharger to make my final 550BHP than to adjust the valvetrain and head trying to hit that number in a naturally aspirated configuration.

[Mikester]

how do you get 1500 posts on a car forum without know what a flex plate is

LMAO! Ironic, huh?

Even tho I usually hang out in the tech sections; 99.9% of the time I see anything automatic transmission-related I don't even bother reading because I (obviously) don't know anything about them... besides what the P, R, N, D, 1 & 2 mean lol... also why I try pretty hard to stay in my lane & be careful to say "I know" only when I'm 100% positive about something.

The only AT cars I've ever owned in my 42yrs never had transmission issues while I owned them.... Sue me :D

[Mikester]

BTW, if post count were the determining factor in how much anyone here knows about cars, the vast majority of this forum's members would be screwed :)

[e1_griego]

Just as an fyi, you'll need to use the lower harness from your automatic with your 5spd swap. The chassis side wiring is different between automatic and manual cars.

[Mikester]

IIRC, the Wiring Specialties lower harness has the connections for both 5-speed & auto-man swaps. Just make sure to specify the alternator charge/speed sensor connector at the fuse box. Worked like a champ for me.

[e1_griego]

Yeah, but there's no real reason to buy that when you can just use the stock lower harness from the auto.

[Silviastunter]

...? I haven't heard anything from any write ups about changing a harnesses

[e1_griego]

Some people swap in the 5spd lower harness and have problems. Like I said, fyi.