Clutch won't disengage

[203692]

looking for a little advice on a problem i'm having with my car if anyone may know whats wrong.
so i put a SPEC stage 3 6 puck clutch kit in my car s13 with a redtop sr. new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pivot ball, slave cylinder, master cylinder, and resurfaced flywheel. i bleed it all and for some reason the clutch won't disengage. i can see in the bellhousing through where the throwout arm sits and everything is sitting jst like it should be. The clutch disc is not in backwards and i used an alignment tool to align everything. Any ideas before i have to tear it down? Thanks

[Mikester]

looking for a little advice on a problem i'm having with my car if anyone may know whats wrong.
so i put a SPEC stage 3 6 puck clutch kit in my car s13 with a redtop sr. new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pivot ball, slave cylinder, master cylinder, and resurfaced flywheel. i bleed it all and for some reason the clutch won't disengage. i can see in the bellhousing through where the throwout arm sits and everything is sitting jst like it should be. The clutch disc is not in backwards and i used an alignment tool to align everything. Any ideas before i have to tear it down? Thanks

Did you bleed the new MC & slave? If so, get under the car and verify that the fork doesn't move when a second person sits in the car and pushes the clutch pedal in. If it doesn't move, you need to re-bleed the system.

[dbeiler]

But the clutch pedal does move to the floor? Or does it not move at all when you attempt to depress it? Have you bled or eliminated the clutch damper line/loop? Sometimes people bleed only at the clutch slave and that doesn't always work.

[Mikester]

^^Yea that loop SUCKS... hopefully it's long gone- makes bleeding the system a total PITA.

[203692]

sorry about the late reply, yes the clutch fork moves when my buddy presses the clutch. it moves probably close to an inch the amount that it should be moving. there is no dampener and i bench bleed the master and slave cylinder before instaling. there is a steel braided line going from the master to the slave with nothing inbetween. the pedal pops up fully on its own.

[Mikester]

Adjust the pedal travel and/or the piston travel. May not be driving the piston far enough to create sufficient pressure to fully disengage the clutch. I had to do this adjustment- but I run a much larger clutch.

[203692]

i adjusted the pedal already. I adjusted the mc all the way out is that too much?

[Mikester]

Check the manufacturer of the clutch & see if there is a specified clutch sleeve & bearing needed for your swap. Sleeve may be too short(?)

[203692]

i used the throw out bearing and pilot bearing that came with the clutch kit. What exactly is a clutch sleve? Also i'm thinking about taking it apart and measuring the thickness of the clutch disc jst in case they sent me the wrong one. How exactly should i measure the disc?
I apreciate the help.

[Mikester]

You can measure the disc thickness with a dial caliper...

The clutch sleeve is the thing the throwout bearing presses onto; and where the fork clips on.

Verify also that you have the right pivot ball and make EXTRA SURE the system is properly bled before going to all that trouble. Starting to wonder if the sleeve/bearing popped off during installation... When you take it apart, post some pics... People like pics- makes it much easier to help ;)

[203692]

good news i fixed it. turned out to be the little v shaped clip that hold the throwout arm and pivot ball together. it was just too hard to tell from that angle that it was the problem.

When i took it all apart and moved the throw out arm back and forth i saw that it shifted a bit then pushed on the throw out bearing. So that little bit of movement that wasn't being used in the correct direction made the difference of engagment and disengagment.

[203692]

i appreciate all the help though guys thanks. Also if ur up for another problem i'm having...

So my car is blowing out blue smoke, i know that means burning oil. I figure its either the valve steams or the turbo seals. Is there a way to determine which one it is? Redtop sr, t25, fmic, greddy intake manifold, walbro 255, straight piped.