Rb25det

[CamberKid]

Hey guys, i'm somewhat new to the nissan community. i'm lookin at a s13 with a S1 RB25DET engine swap in it. Is there anything i should look out for with the motor or any parts that are known to fail?

I'm also curious as to what model skyline the motor is out of. i know there is quite a few different RB series engines. I just know that this one is out of a 95 skyline. idk if it's out of a GTR, GTST, etc.

Also does anyone know what size wheels and offset sit flush with the Rocket Bunny widebody kit?

any help is much appriciated. thanks.

[Kingtal0n]

I avoid the RB series engines because of the price of replacement parts, and availability. (when compared to the displacement per dollar, a 2j always wins)

Its fine if you have a few engines for spare parts though. A series 1 is old, and the chancs of old parts failing is... higher than new parts :D

A GT-R Would have had the RB26. The RB25 had a larger stroke, smaller bore, and was more of a "daily driver taxi cab" engine. You find them in some heavier vehicles (3400lbs~).

I would not attempt to push that engine beyond 350~ horsepower. A newer RB25, such as the "neo" version, I would stop around 450 horsepower, and upgrade the oil pump in all of them because that is a known point to fail.

If it still has the OEM turbocharger leave it at 7psi for best longevity. The OEM turbo will not support 350 horsepower.

[seagrasser]

OK, where to begin.

The water and oil pumps are known issues with these engines when you start modding them. Ask if they have been upgraded to N1. If so, that brings piece of mind.

The coil packs can be a problem because of age and heat cycling. The stock turbo has a ceramic exhaust wheel that fails near and above 10 psi. Ask what boost it has been running. Check the turbo for shaft play.

Check the oil pan, often the front sway bar mounts too close and can rub a hole in it. Loss of oil is a real problem.

Ask if the fuel pump has been upgraded.

Any mods already done require tuning of some sort. Ask what is being used. See if it drives fine. In stock form the powerband is fairly smooth and progressive, but feels a bit slow.

Installation details are a big thing with this swap. Wiring is often done in a sloppy manner. Look for that. Engine bogging, misfire, or stalling will indicate a problem.

Look at the transmission and make sure it is mounted correctly. Make sure it is an RB25 transmission. An RB20 transmission bolts right up and can be used as a shortcut/cost saver during the swap. This one got me and the 20 transmission will fall short of modding goals eventually.

Higher horsepower engine will put more strain on the chassis. Look for worn out bushings and noise coming from the diff.

Speed and RPM usually need to be corrected for the cluster to read accurately. See if that has been done. It'll read too high if not.

This is a great swap with a sweet engine note, but you will have to pay to play. There is not near the aftermarket support of the SR20 community and parts are more expensive.

Let us know if this helps and post pics of the engine bay.

[seagrasser]

Also, what price is he/she asking?

[CamberKid]

OK, where to begin.

The water and oil pumps are known issues with these engines when you start modding them. Ask if they have been upgraded to N1. If so, that brings piece of mind.

The coil packs can be a problem because of age and heat cycling. The stock turbo has a ceramic exhaust wheel that fails near and above 10 psi. Ask what boost it has been running. Check the turbo for shaft play.

Check the oil pan, often the front sway bar mounts too close and can rub a hole in it. Loss of oil is a real problem.

Ask if the fuel pump has been upgraded.

Any mods already done require tuning of some sort. Ask what is being used. See if it drives fine. In stock form the powerband is fairly smooth and progressive, but feels a bit slow.

Installation details are a big thing with this swap. Wiring is often done in a sloppy manner. Look for that. Engine bogging, misfire, or stalling will indicate a problem.

Look at the transmission and make sure it is mounted correctly. Make sure it is an RB25 transmission. An RB20 transmission bolts right up and can be used as a shortcut/cost saver during the swap. This one got me and the 20 transmission will fall short of modding goals eventually.

Higher horsepower engine will put more strain on the chassis. Look for worn out bushings and noise coming from the diff.

Speed and RPM usually need to be corrected for the cluster to read accurately. See if that has been done. It'll read too high if not.

This is a great swap with a sweet engine note, but you will have to pay to play. There is not near the aftermarket support of the SR20 community and parts are more expensive.

Let us know if this helps and post pics of the engine bay.

He wants $4k. I'll pm you the link

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[92R32GTST]

GTR engines are RB26DETT.
R33 GTST are the RB25DET engines,
and R32 are RB20DET engines.
All these models Also came with the RB26DETT (GTR).
GTR models are also AWD and can be swapped into RWD cars with RWD Transmissions, Hoped this helped some what.

[smoked240]

I avoid the RB series engines because of the price of replacement parts, and availability. (when compared to the displacement per dollar, a 2j always wins)

Its fine if you have a few engines for spare parts though. A series 1 is old, and the chancs of old parts failing is... higher than new parts :D

A GT-R Would have had the RB26. The RB25 had a larger stroke, smaller bore, and was more of a "daily driver taxi cab" engine. You find them in some heavier vehicles (3400lbs~).

I would not attempt to push that engine beyond 350~ horsepower. A newer RB25, such as the "neo" version, I would stop around 450 horsepower, and upgrade the oil pump in all of them because that is a known point to fail.

If it still has the OEM turbocharger leave it at 7psi for best longevity. The OEM turbo will not support 350 horsepower.

Finding most parts isn't a problem, it's the little speciality things like electrical plugs, knock sensors, etc.

The bores are actually identical between the rb25 and rb26. The stroke however is not. The piston wrist pin is offset on rb26 pistons to give it an added 100cc. Pistons and crankshaft should always match or pistons will need shaving.

In complete stock form an rb25 should be pushed no more then 350. If you ad an extended crank collar you'll be fine with the stock oil pump (not saying it wouldn't be a bad idea to at least throw an n1 oil pump and water pump in since it's apart)and have new pistons and rings(preferably forged) you'll be able to push up to 500hp. ( maybe more but every engine is different and so is every build)This is ofcourse with supporting mods and a new turbo. I'm pushing my stock turbo only 10psi for safety and producing 270hp on e85.

Awesome engines, just do not cheap out on an ecu and tune or you might as well not build an RB.

[Sforteen]

I avoid the RB series engines because of the price of replacement parts, and availability. (when compared to the displacement per dollar, a 2j always wins)

lots of interchangable parts and parts are pretty easy to get really... if you maintain something correctly this shouldnt be a huge deal.. both 2j and RB parts are spendy.. not just RB's

A GT-R Would have had the RB26. The RB25 had a larger stroke, smaller bore, and was more of a "daily driver taxi cab" engine. You find them in some heavier vehicles (3400lbs~).

No, seriously did you guess? taxi cab engine...lol RB25 71.7mm stroke 86mm bore RB26 same bore 73.7 stroke same rods, wrist pin offset to allow stroke increase. Rb25DET's are found in the R33/R34 GTS-T skyline

I would not attempt to push that engine beyond 350~ horsepower. A newer RB25, such as the "neo" version, I would stop around 450 horsepower, and upgrade the oil pump in all of them because that is a known point to fail.
People push these engines well into the 500whp range with stock internals.. i agree with the oil pump upgrades, however they can survive without collars if you stay off the limiter and dont rev to the moon.
A Neo Rb25 has bigger rods simular to RB26.. they are rumored to be able to take even more abuse..

There are people making over 600whp on stock blocks pretty reliably

[zerodameaon]

I avoid the RB series engines because of the price of replacement parts, and availability. (when compared to the displacement per dollar, a 2j always wins)

lots of interchangable parts and parts are pretty easy to get really... if you maintain something correctly this shouldnt be a huge deal.. both 2j and RB parts are spendy.. not just RB's

I agree with this, if you are not lazy and look around you will find that most everything has a USDM counterpart for all the wear and tear stuff including coilpacks and a bunch of the sensors as well.

[92R32GTST]

For the member above that said he wouldnt push an RB25 past 350hp...check yoself... Lol. 500whp stock block and head all day.

[Dakemprb25]

Exactly mine was making 435hp on a ebay GT35 , once i get her tuned on my new GT35R ill post the dyno sheet and probably a video. Hoping to make 500+ but we willl seee

[Kingtal0n]

I've seen lots of engines fail and my recommendations are for people that want to keep theirs for 200,000 miles.

Sure any RB25 can support 600 rwhp and any SR20 can support 500BHP. Heck a 2jz on #85 can support 900RWHP.

Doesnt mean its going to last. lol @ 19 year olds saying "all day" when they havn't even been driving cars for 10 years.

You cant run a stock head stock block RB25 @ 500rwhp for 10 years and 100,000 miles without something letting go.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I've seen lots of engines fail and my recommendations are for people that want to keep theirs for 200,000 miles.

Sure any RB25 can support 600 rwhp and any SR20 can support 500BHP. Heck a 2jz on #85 can support 900RWHP.

Doesnt mean its going to last. lol @ 19 year olds saying "all day" when they havn't even been driving cars for 10 years.

You cant run a stock head stock block RB25 @ 500rwhp for 10 years and 100,000 miles without something letting go.

No shit, you can't do the same thing for most engines when you're pushing them over double what they were originally intended for.

[Sileighty_85]

Weird, I've had Zero Issues finding any part for my RB's in the states, shits not expensive either

[supersayianjim]

Weird, I've had Zero Issues finding any part for my RB's in the states, shits not expensive either

neither have I. I mean a n1 pump is a hit and miss, you have to find a good deal. but this "parts are hard to find, and are expensive" shit is b.s.!!!

[Kingtal0n]

neither have I. I mean a n1 pump is a hit and miss, you have to find a good deal. but this "parts are hard to find, and are expensive" shit is b.s.!!!

well lets see. first, the words "hard to find" and "expensive" are both variables. $2 might be expensive to someone. and hard to find might be around the corner for someone.

So, you cannot directly say its "bs" only that you feel, from your perspective, that is it bs. Which is an opinion of course.


Now I suppose I can clarify my statement regarding these two phrases as well since people cannot think for themselves.

1. hard to find: You cannot walk into any random auto parts store and find parts for the RB series. that automatically means you are restricted to using the internet, or local used parts importers. And the local guy could be out of camshaft angle sensors, and the only one you can find online is in Japan that day. So yes, parts can be tricky.

2. expensive: this depends on each individual of course, but you may find that parts for the RB series are more costly than similar parts for any other random engine found in the USA. I promise that an RB series valvecover, head, crankshaft, transmission, oil pan, oil pump, etc... is going to be more expensive than a chevy V8, 350Z, or even an SR20DE engine's.

[Kingtal0n]

No shit, you can't do the same thing for most engines when you're pushing them over double what they were originally intended for.

We have a winner.


here an example of a failure:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/rb25neo_org240sx_N2O/Orangecarsell004.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/rb25neo_org240sx_N2O/Orangecarsell001.jpg


It made 17 passes @ 550RWHP and spit the oil pump. Neo engine, too.
Let me know if you make it past 17.

[supersayianjim]

well lets see. first, the words "hard to find" and "expensive" are both variables. $2 might be expensive to someone. and hard to find might be around the corner for someone.

So, you cannot directly say its "bs" only that you feel, from your perspective, that is it bs. Which is an opinion of course.


Now I suppose I can clarify my statement regarding these two phrases as well since people cannot think for themselves.

1. hard to find: You cannot walk into any random auto parts store and find parts for the RB series. that automatically means you are restricted to using the internet, or local used parts importers. And the local guy could be out of camshaft angle sensors, and the only one you can find online is in Japan that day. So yes, parts can be tricky.

2. expensive: this depends on each individual of course, but you may find that parts for the RB series are more costly than similar parts for any other random engine found in the USA. I promise that an RB series valvecover, head, crankshaft, transmission, oil pan, oil pump, etc... is going to be more expensive than a chevy V8, 350Z, or even an SR20DE engine's.


wow that's a funny post if any today. if $2.00 is too expensive for you then you shouldn't own a car or even a computer, you have other things to worry about. Last time I checked the dollars value hasn't dipped that badly.

1. if you need a cas you can use a certain model z32 cas iirc. and guess what you can get those from autozone. and if you didn't know, the internet is everywhere. and mostly everything is cheaper also. so this thing called GOOGLE will make these hard things you speak of to find, FINDABLE. with much ease.

2. you used some vauge example of 350z, chevy v8(should had seen that coming right) and a sr20de(which the iaac works on the rb25det, but you didn't know that right).

I don't know where you are getting your pricing information, but you are just plain wrong. not seeing the direction where you are trying to take this, but obviously you don't know shit about building a rb engine AT ALL.

so in closing like I said before op the prices for rb parts are cheap(look them up)

and the parts for the rb's are not hard to find(look that up)

also the parts are swappable across the Nissan spectrum from different models (like z31+z32 tranys working for these engines) to cas,seals,turbos, spark plugs,etc.

this isn't an alien motor op. again do your research and take advice from people who have worked on rb's for a long time. and not from some guy who is feeding you b.s. on an online forum.

[Kingtal0n]

wow that's a funny post if any today. if $2.00 is too expensive for you then you shouldn't own a car or even a computer, you have other things to worry about. Last time I checked the dollars value hasn't dipped that badly.

1. if you need a cas you can use a certain model z32 cas iirc. and guess what you can get those from autozone. and if you didn't know, the internet is everywhere. and mostly everything is cheaper also. so this thing called GOOGLE will make these hard things you speak of to find, FINDABLE. with much ease.

2. you used some vauge example of 350z, chevy v8(should had seen that coming right) and a sr20de(which the iaac works on the rb25det, but you didn't know that right).

I don't know where you are getting your pricing information, but you are just plain wrong. not seeing the direction where you are trying to take this, but obviously you don't know shit about building a rb engine AT ALL.

so in closing like I said before op the prices for rb parts are cheap(look them up)

and the parts for the rb's are not hard to find(look that up)

also the parts are swappable across the Nissan spectrum from different models (like z31+z32 tranys working for these engines) to cas,seals,turbos, spark plugs,etc.

this isn't an alien motor op. again do your research and take advice from people who have worked on rb's for a long time. and not from some guy who is feeding you b.s. on an online forum.

I didnt post any prices so how could I be wrong?
Furthermore, all I see is you telling him to google and (look that up). That is more difficult than simply walking into a parts store and ordering a part, therefore, you proved my original point about parts being harder to find.

[supersayianjim]

^^^ must not be serious :picardfp:

[fliprayzin240sx]

I've seen lots of engines fail and my recommendations are for people that want to keep theirs for 200,000 miles.

Sure any RB25 can support 600 rwhp and any SR20 can support 500BHP. Heck a 2jz on #85 can support 900RWHP.

Doesnt mean its going to last. lol @ 19 year olds saying "all day" when they havn't even been driving cars for 10 years.

You cant run a stock head stock block RB25 @ 500rwhp for 10 years and 100,000 miles without something letting go.

We have a winner.


here an example of a failure:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/rb25neo_org240sx_N2O/Orangecarsell004.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/rb25neo_org240sx_N2O/Orangecarsell001.jpg


It made 17 passes @ 550RWHP and spit the oil pump. Neo engine, too.
Let me know if you make it past 17.

Do you really expect a stock engine to last 10 yrs/100K when its making over double its HP rating? Shit isnt gonna last forever since you're adding wear and tear on it.

But I have seen folks run them for a while. I've had buddies in Oki running stock RB25 bottom ends on built heads push 600hp and last a few years of beating on them almost every day drifting and dragging. Longest one that I personally know of lasted almost 4 yrs before blow by got the best of it. Pulled everthing off the engine, got another stock block from the pick and pull, swapped head/parts over to it, kept on beating on it.

[zerodameaon]

I didnt post any prices so how could I be wrong?
Furthermore, all I see is you telling him to google and (look that up). That is more difficult than simply walking into a parts store and ordering a part, therefore, you proved my original point about parts being harder to find.

I can walk into any autozone/napa and walk out with a vast number of parts for the RB that they keep in stock. I have done it many times.

[Sforteen]

Finding RB parts isn't difficult, tons of parts from other cars interchange.. I suppose there is more research involved ='s harder to find.. big deal

Cometic sells complete gasket kits, raw brokerage has damn near anything and everything..

Really though, in the 3 years ive had my RB beating the piss out of it, i haven't done anything to it.. besides change fluids.. its not like your at the auto parts store every month looking for replacement parts... If you are, your doing it wrong...

Built motors don't last 100k miles..lol

There is a risk pushing any engine past its means.. but look at user booztd3 stock block RB26 for sometime now 3 years i think.. car has made 770whp with a stock block and Poncams.. runs low 10's in a pig 300zx

Lots of things can contribute to failure, but to say the RB25/26 engines internal parts are lacking in durability and cant reliably support 350hp just shows how much you don't know.

[CamberKid]

I asked about rb's, parts, and install help...not to have trolls talk shit to each other back and forth. This isn't Facebook....

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[Fuego]

When you ask stupid questions, you get stupid answers.

[CamberKid]

When you ask stupid questions, you get stupid answers.

How is what I asked a stupid question? I don't know too much about RB's so I asked for help.

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[Fuego]

How is what I asked a stupid question? I don't know too much about RB's so I asked for help.

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It's because you failed to use the search function and/or google which holds all your answers.

[CamberKid]

It's because you failed to use the search function and/or google which holds all your answers.

Tried that. Most of the time I only found forums full of trolls bickering back and forth like what started on here. Which is annoying, because you guys are acting like children over pointless bs. I thought if I asked on a NISSAN forum that I would get some knowledgeable answers faster than searching on Google.

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