my ultimate disappointment....

[SGTsideways]

So here we go my sr swap consists of the following..Eagle rods, Wesco pistons, BC valves, BC valve springs and retainers, Nismo timing chain guide , ACL race bearings (main and rod), cosmetic head gasket, ACT cromemoly flywheel,Complete Full-race- top mount with twinscroll gt3076R,dual tial 38mm waste gates,tial Q blowoff, mazworx intake maifold and fuel rail with Fuel injector development 1,000 cc injectors, q45 throttle body, isis pullies, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust tuned on AEM V2. Car made 287 whp on 18 lbs. revving to 7k rpm.... The AEM failed us every step of the way. My map sensor was a dud right out of the box and my boost solenoid (also aem) wouldn't do anything because the ecu wasnt communicating with it. We ended up using a manual boost controller just to be able to tune it on 18LBS. My tuner is great and has an amazing track record. My torque curve is great. I know I can pick up a good bit from cams. This is my first sr build and I was expecting a little more with what I already have into this build. Im not sure if I should just try to retune at 22 Lbs. or stick with what I got and get some cams. My goal was to reach 400 with a pump gas tune and a useable powerband. Can anyone offer some advice on what I should do next? Thanks sorry I know this was way too long.

[jr_ss]

287 on 18psi is weak for everything you have. What dyno was this on?

[ultimateirving]

287 on 18psi is weak for everything you have. What dyno was this on?

Ya i made more power with less boost on a t28,
You got mad boost leaks or that AEM is shit tune.
How wavy is the boost curve? when does it come on hard?

[SGTsideways]

im trying to post the dyno graph but my macbook hates me. the dyno was a PowerDyne Mustang dyne. horsepower climbed all the way to 7k. If I revved higher it would still be climbing steadily. Peak torque was made at 4k and held all the way through.

[SGTsideways]

shot of the engine bay and a pic of the dyno graph

[SGTsideways]

Also with having the valves,springs and retainers what would you say I should be able to rev to safely? I was stopping at 7k would it be safe to bump it up to 7,500?

[Kingtal0n]

1. you did not mention what cams.

2. if those are stock cams then your boost is only around 7psi

3.The torque curve says "not stock cams", and as to the torque output it could be:
A: low boost (are you reading boost from the AEM? Try a separate gauge)
B: massive boost leak (doubtful because torque does not dive like you might expect)
C: wrong timing (Using AEM replacement CAS disc?)
D: dyno settings

suggestions:
-Do not rev the engine until it makes power
-you need an inlet TUBE before the compressor. Do not just stick the air filter to the compressor.
-you need a proper PCV line on that inlet tube
-Do a boost leak check and install an external boost gauge
-ditch the aftermarket pulleys and use an ATI damper

[SGTsideways]

I am on stock cams. like you said im pretty sure its not a boost leak since the boost and torque doesnt really fluctuate. How could those pullies have a negative effect? Yes Im using the AEM disc. Right out of the box the map sensor and boost solenoid was no good from AEM im wondering if this is my main source of issues. What is the difference of having an actual intake tube vs the filter? I never saw that as something of huge importance.

[jr_ss]

The tube places your intake filter away from the heat of the engine and turbo resulting in lower intake temps and overall cleaner air.

What is your base timing? Have you checked and set it at 15* BTDC?

Seeing as this is on a Mustang dyno, the numbers could and should be lower than a dynojet or equivalent.

The pulleys are fine, so long as you have a factory damper on the crank.

You should be revving the engine until power falls off. You'll be limited to 7500 or so as the DET head doesn't breath very well. Once you find peak power, stop revving a few hundred rpms after. This will increase longevity, no sense revving if you aren't making more power.

[ThirtyTwo]

Do a compression check (could be bad ring seal or incorrect cam timing), post a screen shot of your timing table in aem, do a pull and let us know what your AFRs are at full boost, verify that your timing is correct with a timing light. Check intercooler piping and exhaust for large restrictions (something collapsed or clogged). Do a boost leak check just to be sure. Make sure your bov isn't opening under boost.

Do you get any misfiring? Does the engine sound like it's really working hard or loading up?

[Def]

Torque curve looks more like 9-10 psi.

Take your valve cover off, rotate the engine to tdc and take a pic of the cams when the front two lobes are pointing up and away from each other (10 and 2 o clock). Take pics of the cam gears. Sounds like you've got your cams all out of wack to be that far off on power.


Or other possibility, is this a Chinese gt3076r from eBay (as in not a Garrett)? Those things are junk... Which could be your problem.

[SGTsideways]

thanks for all the feedback. the turbo is not a knock off. Im running a full-race complete twinscroll top mount kit. We have identified the issue i think. We were messing with it all day. Turns out the tube line/ push lock fittings that were used to replace all the vacuum hoses are not all created equal. One of the hoses coming out of the wastegate was melted on the underside and the hose from the second wastegate hose was about to be the same. We replaced the lines and put the heat sheath around them. Once we made the changes I took the car around the block and was only registering 13-14 psi. I will be giving it another go on wednesday with the tuner.

[Def]

Those nylon lines are worthless - ditch them. For just a little more than they cost you can make up some pushlok AN hoses that disassemble even easier IMO and you KNOW they're sealed up.

[TheRealSy90]

Lol my sr makes about the same power with stock internals just cams and an safc on a stock Ecu haha.


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[Tom N]

If you don't have any serious boost leaks and compression is good then you have a shit tune. What's the afr's and how much timing.
I made more hp and way more tq on a completely stock long block and turbo on slightly less boost.
You have a aem, do you have any logs?

[AJZax]

Dam I feel you bro, that's exactly what I was afraid of. Luckily I managed to put it together decently and I have an awesome tuner. He's actually form Florida, but he flies up here to WA to dynotune groups of cars. My car is kind of the same setup.

Email rsenthalpy. He'll get you squared away. He's in Florida and is one of the best tuners around.

Double cone air filters can also induce air turbulence, this is one reason why people can't get z32 mafs above 400whp. You should have roughly 12-18" of tube before the inlet.
I have a 4" suction tube, reducer to z32 maf, then expander to 4" inlet to huge K&N filter placed behind bumper for cold air.

Colder inlet air moves the turbo into its efficiency band more, so it blows less hot air.

You have a full 3" exhaust?

the dyno graph looks like it's just peaking boost.

It looks kind of like my 15psi dyno, where the tq just flat lines early just liek that.
I'm pretty sure you're just not in any real boost. It's not leaning, then dipping and stuff from fuel or boost regulation or funky stuff. Looks smooth. I'm really thinkign your boost is just toping out.

What wastegate springs do you have in your wastegate?

P.M. me if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help you get your setup rockin like it should