V8 Frankenstein?!?!

[Milspec180]

So I'm interested in a V8 swap but an ls1 is a grip! I want to stick with a Gm motor. I've heard there are ways of making a lt series motor for much less with the same hp as and ls motor. Something about an L92 with ls1 parts?!?! Can anyone tell me their setups or ideas on how I can make this happen?
Thanks in advance! KCDO(keep calm drift on!)

[yetijeff]

There's a lot of different combos man. As far as lt/ls comparability I don't think it's possible. But there are other options. U can pick up other "ls style" motors a lot cheaper. The 5.3s from trucks and even the 4.8s are badass motors and there are a lot of parts from the ls series motors that are compatible. The big drawback is the weight. Lsx motors are aluminum block whereas all truck blocks (except the l33) or iron blocks and therefore heavier. If u don't mind me asking tho why stick with gm? I myself am a diehard gm fan but after doin a lot of research on a v8 build myself, u can get big numbers with a 5.0 swap. And u can get those numbers at a fraction of the cost. Mind u most 5.0 builds I've seen are hanky as fuck looking, but if u applied the attention to detail to a 5.0 build like most people goin ls do. I think you would have yourself a wicked ride and not break the bank doing it. Hell 5.0's (from what I've seen) damn near bolt right in to our cars.

[2muchboost]

^^Correction, the LM4 , LH6, LY5, and L33 are the aluminum version of the 5.3. Compression on the 5.3's range from 9.5:1 to 9.9:1. These motors are approximately 80-100 lbs lighter than the iron block versions. The 4.8L is also a serious contender and has made huge power. Take a gander:
Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/)

Not sure how cheap the 5.0 swaps are since I dont have much knowledge about them but I can tell you my LM7 5.3 with 39k miles was $700 with ECU and wiring. I have a spare block that I picked up for $250. The one expensive part about the LS swap (one time big purchase) is the T56 trans thats becoming rarer by the day so the cost is shooting up. Some people get the LT1 trans but from what I have read it is no where as strong as the T56.

For drifting I would try and find an aluminum 5.3, get an LS1 intake, ZR1 or LS6 cam....all items which can be bought super cheap. You really dont need the 5.7 or 6.0 L versions of the GM motors especially for the price tag. I have seen numerous L33's go for $1500 or less.

[Tom N]

LT1 6 speed is also a T56 but it won't bolt to a LS engine. Different bell housing and input shaft. Those can be swapped though.

[2muchboost]

^^thanks for clarifying.

[Frank_Jaeger]

LT1 6 speed is also a T56 but it won't bolt to a LS engine. Different bell housing and input shaft. Those can be swapped though.
From what reading I've done before on the subject, by the time you've gathered the parts to convert an LT1 T56 to an LS1 T56, you could've just bought a damn LS1 T56.

[ultimateirving]

^^Correction, the LM4 , LH6, LY5, and L33 are the aluminum version of the 5.3. Compression on the 5.3's range from 9.5:1 to 9.9:1. These motors are approximately 80-100 lbs heavier than the iron block versions. The 4.8L is also a serious contender and has made huge power. Take a gander:
Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/)

Not sure how cheap the 5.0 swaps are since I dont have much knowledge about them but I can tell you my LM7 5.3 with 39k miles was $700 with ECU and wiring. I have a spare block that I picked up for $250. The one expensive part about the LS swap (one time big purchase) is the T56 trans thats becoming rarer by the day so the cost is shooting up. Some people get the LT1 trans but from what I have read it is no where as strong as the T56.

For drifting I would try and find an aluminum 5.3, get an LS1 intake, ZR1 or LS6 cam....all items which can be bought super cheap. You really dont need the 5.7 or 6.0 L versions of the GM motors especially for the price tag. I have seen numerous L33's go for $1500 or less.

Am i reading this right, The aluminum are heavier than the iron blocks?!

Also there is a guy her in phoenix with a swapped 4.8l in his GTO and he boosted it, makes over 700hp which i think is awesome for a 4.8l

[ls2funky]

I haven't decided which variation of the ls engine i'm going to use yet, but i'll be going the same route soon on my end. I will most likely be going larger than the 5.3 simply for the ease of installation of the LSA supercharger without having to bore the motor to 4" which is sketchy (but not impossible as some people think) with the 5.3 block. If you're wanting to stick with either NA or possibly a turbo application, then I recommend sticking to the cheaper 5.3 or 4.8 variations of the LS and building it up from there. Billy and I have been talking about building a turbo 4.8 stroker for my silverado and both agree that would be a badass contender with his built LS3 Colorado.

And if someone recommends using the LT.. slap them. They do NOT make as much power with as much ease and are not supported nearly as well by aftermarket companies. There's a reason nobody uses them... Just to give my input on that part of the post.

[Tom N]

From what reading I've done before on the subject, by the time you've gathered the parts to convert an LT1 T56 to an LS1 T56, you could've just bought a damn LS1 T56.


That's probably true. I was just clarifying that its not just a LS1 that got a T56 6 speed transmission.

[Tom N]

L33 aluminum 5.3 is about 100lbs lighter than a iron 5.3.

[ls2funky]

I have a question regarding the transmission, since everyone is on that subject.. has anyone tried to use the S13 clutch master with the t56? I've been curious to know if it'll work well if at all, or if it'd be better to use the f-body master?

[Chronicle]

I have a question regarding the transmission, since everyone is on that subject.. has anyone tried to use the S13 clutch master with the t56? I've been curious to know if it'll work well if at all, or if it'd be better to use the f-body master?

I don't know what's the norm with these swaps, but the F-Body master cylinder is not a very good piece of equipment. Just about every T-56 F-Body will have problems shifting at WOT, especially between 2nd-3rd gear. Most F-Body guys (including myself) switch over to the Tick master cylinder. It really improves the clutch response of the T-56.

[Johnny_K]

I have a question regarding the transmission, since everyone is on that subject.. has anyone tried to use the S13 clutch master with the t56? I've been curious to know if it'll work well if at all, or if it'd be better to use the f-body master?

not sure but this is what i have in my swap.
https://www.fueledracing.com/products_detail.php?itemID=291

[Johnny_K]

So I'm interested in a V8 swap but an ls1 is a grip! I want to stick with a Gm motor. I've heard there are ways of making a lt series motor for much less with the same hp as and ls motor. Something about an L92 with ls1 parts?!?! Can anyone tell me their setups or ideas on how I can make this happen?
Thanks in advance! KCDO(keep calm drift on!)

not sure if you visited ls1tech but i would start there. Lots of good resources.

You mentioned grip. Not sure what chassis you plan on putting this in but i have a s13 with ls1 and grip is my winter mod. Having softer spring rates helps I have 5k in the rear. And i'm also going to a s14 subframe which is wider and has build in antisquat for more grip.

[ls2funky]

I don't know what's the norm with these swaps, but the F-Body master cylinder is not a very good piece of equipment. Just about every T-56 F-Body will have problems shifting at WOT, especially between 2nd-3rd gear. Most F-Body guys (including myself) switch over to the Tick master cylinder. It really improves the clutch response of the T-56.

Every F-Body I've owned was automatic-drag... so i wasn't even aware of that. Appreciate it.

not sure but this is what i have in my swap.
https://www.fueledracing.com/products_detail.php?itemID=291
Thanks for the link, you say you have this in your lsx swapped 240? Havent had any issues out of it??

[Johnny_K]

^ yup. Have been beating on my car with this swap for 1.5 yrs and no issue. The bleeder valve is on the fire wall so it's ez to bleed.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/johnnyk1029/1367163551.jpg

[jzepol1985]

Speed on a Budget! Build a 400hp Chevy LS Motor for Under $1200 (http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/speed-on-a-budget-build-a-400hp-chevy-ls-motor-for-und-1125469009)
Gives you an idea about the different motor options and what you can swap. Missing some stuff in the article but a good base to start at

[ls2funky]

^ yup. Have been beating on my car with this swap for 1.5 yrs and no issue. The bleeder valve is on the fire wall so it's ez to bleed.
looks damn good bro and thanks again for the info. Curiosity has me begging to know your hp/tq numbers and what mods you chose for your LS

[ls2funky]

not sure if you visited ls1tech but i would start there. Lots of good resources.

You mentioned grip. Not sure what chassis you plan on putting this in but i have a s13 with ls1 and grip is my winter mod. Having softer spring rates helps I have 5k in the rear. And i'm also going to a s14 subframe which is wider and has build in antisquat for more grip.

Im pretty sure he used "grip" as a term meaning it was going to cost him out the ASS to put an ls into his 2funky bro haha. BUT.. thanks for the info on the spring rates n stuff for the rear. I was curious to know if this thing would even hook when i wanted it to.:2f2f:

[2muchboost]

Correction on my original post....the aluminum block is lighter lol.

How is that Sikky MC kit? I was looking into the Tick Adjustable MC as everyone swears by it and with the group buy on LS1 it's only a few bucks more. I am sure I could piece that Silky kit together for cheaper than Sikky sells them for.

Everybody with the swap running OEM PCM and HPTuner?

[Johnny_K]

looks damn good bro and thanks again for the info. Curiosity has me begging to know your hp/tq numbers and what mods you chose for your LS

its pretty much a stock 04 GTO LS1 which has 350 HP and 365 ft lbs of tq. My mods are intake, header and 3 inch exhaust. If i had more money ill prob cam it out with new springs and upgrade the lid and throttle body.

Correction on my original post....the aluminum block is lighter lol.

How is that Sikky MC kit? I was looking into the Tick Adjustable MC as everyone swears by it and with the group buy on LS1 it's only a few bucks more. I am sure I could piece that Silky kit together for cheaper than Sikky sells them for.

Everybody with the swap running OEM PCM and HPTuner?

Sikky kits is a proven kit and I am running a OEM PCM with HP tuners with no issues.

[Kingtal0n]

I wouldn't mind a properly built 700R4 (4l60) behind a mild LSx (400-500).

It would be quicker around the street, that is for sure.

[Milspec180]

I was wondering what car can I find the 4.8L aluminum block in? I'm looking to boost it and put some cams in also. I've heard that the 4.8L handle boost like a champ.

[sleepyS14se]

do a sbc, make more power for cheap, make even more power to compensate for the ZOMG heavy ass iron block lol.

[Kingtal0n]

Weight difference thread

KA24DE 240SX(S14) vs LS1 240SX(S14) Weight Difference Inside - LS1TECH (http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1412014-ka24de-240sx-s14-vs-ls1-240sx-s14-weight-difference-inside.html)