sr20det only 10-15 mpg!

[Danger_Dorn]

Ok so this has been driving me nuts. No matter how I drive I get 10 mpg (shifting before 3k, staying out of boost)

Engine is a redtop with 2k on OEM rebuild with 32 ecu and Man. Trans.

I have adjusted my TPS to .45 volts and verified with my wideband that I'm running normal fuel mixtures. (It is reading lean due to an exhaust leak but that's getting fixed this weekend)

I think I may have a gas tank leak because when I fill up gas pours out of the top of the tank so I'll be investigating that this weekend also. :bash:

Also my 02 sensor may be shot but I haven't found a fool proof way to troubleshoot it. Anyone know the voltage at idle with normal AFR's?

Also installed a AFPR and Z32 FF @ 43.5 psi vac unplugged. Air filter is clean with new maf and injectors spray evenly.

I have my coilpacks grounded with the OEM grounding point (good or bad?)
I have a ground from the Intake manifold to firewall, and a ground from near exhaust to fenderwell. Maf is grounded to fenderwell with 2mv resistance.

My sparkplugs are autolites (bkr7e equivalent) gapped to .28

Ignition timing is set to 15btdc. (oem)

93 octane. WS harness

What else can I do to try and get better mileage? I have read a few threads but nothing too helpful/recently up to date.

[ultimateirving]

Ok so i get about 22mpg average with 91 on my tune. You are definitely off quite a bit.
I would investigate for any leaks, especially if something is leaking when you fill up, its possible your gas can evaporate.
Also I believe the system is supposed to be sealed so that could be having some impact on your fuel woes.

Next the 02 sensor plays a large part in the gas consumption when not WOT. So if you dont think it is working then you need to do a few small tests to make sure its hooked up. Easiest way is to turn the ignition on and wait like 5 mins to see if the o2 sensor gets hot. That means it has power and is at least functioning.
Next i would check to make sure that the signal wire has continuity to the ecu.
And i hope someone else can chime in to explain better how to test the o2 unit beyond that.

[Danger_Dorn]

Thanks Irving. So the points of the gas tank that are sealable are the cap, fuel cap, the in and out lines...What about that line that runs under the tranny tunnel? Whatever that vent thing is...should I cap that? Ill have to find that crack by feeling around in the tank considering I don't really have time or resources to drop it.

From what I understand with the o2 sensor is that under 3k it controls your AFR's but in WOT it has no effect. Also at idle it will have between 0 and 1V which is determined by the resistance it detects via sniffing the fuel in the exhaust right? IIRC 0v is lean and 1v is rich so to test my o2 sensor I would probe it and watch my voltages in relation to my AFR on the wideband right? I just read somewhere the medium for o2's is .45 and anywhere below or above that is lean or rich.

Sorry just thinking aloud and if it's right it will be a good future reference...opinions?

[ultimateirving]

Thanks Irving. So the points of the gas tank that are sealable are the cap, fuel cap, the in and out lines...What about that line that runs under the tranny tunnel? Whatever that vent thing is...should I cap that? Ill have to find that crack by feeling around in the tank considering I don't really have time or resources to drop it.

From what I understand with the o2 sensor is that under 3k it controls your AFR's but in WOT it has no effect. Also at idle it will have between 0 and 1V which is determined by the resistance it detects via sniffing the fuel in the exhaust right? IIRC 0v is lean and 1v is rich so to test my o2 sensor I would probe it and watch my voltages in relation to my AFR on the wideband right? I just read somewhere the medium for o2's is .45 and anywhere below or above that is lean or rich.

Sorry just thinking aloud and if it's right it will be a good future reference...opinions?

Your technique sounds like it is fine, I do not know what the voltages are for stock 02.

Do you have a consult port? That would instantly solve the guessing games.

[Danger_Dorn]

No I dont have a console port but I would be interested in one. Is there a write up anywhere? I just searched google and returned nothing. I will also post up the results of my new o2 sensor voltages for future referance. And what about the gas tank line thing? Some people leave it open to the engine bay but that concerns me considering that gas fumes could vent out. I think I might put a vac cap over it and give it a week. :gives:

[Mikester]

I know this varies... but my base timing has always been 17BTDC. Not that 2* is a big deal, but in your case, every little bit will help lol.

Gap your plugs to .030

As far as the third line coming off your tank, it does not go into the tranny tunnel, it goes to a check valve; and then to the hardlines along the passenger frame rail... and you do NOT want to cap it off. Your tank needs to 'breathe' in order to maintain proper pressure between the indise of the tank and ambient... That line is your evap line that helps perform this function; as well as allowing excess fumes to be sucked into the intake manifold... reducing explosion hazard and adding to fuel economy.

You are leaking fuel. Find & fix the leak(s).

[Danger_Dorn]

Thanks mikester. There is a line that comes out next to the fuel lines that looks like it goes to the fuel tank. I dont have the canister hooked up or anything. Are we talking about the same line? It is simply just open currently...no bueno?

[Mikester]

Follow the lines from the fuel tank, there should be 3. 2 go to the fuel feed/return, the 3rd goes to a small check valve bolted to the unibody just fwd of the spare tire well.

[Danger_Dorn]

So today I went and adjusted all 4 corners of my coilovers since when I put them on I just threw them on to be done with it. I also got my new o2 sensor in. It made a small difference but since I sealed up my exhaust leak I am now running lean. 15.5 at idle unless it does its weird thing where it revs low and leans to 17. It is at like 14.5 in cruise AND BOOST! Sometimes it will go to 13.5 but I have checked EVERYTHING including moving my fuel pressure up to 40 with vac plugged in so like 47 unplugged. What else can I try besides the above

[ultimateirving]

So today I went and adjusted all 4 corners of my coilovers since when I put them on I just threw them on to be done with it. I also got my new o2 sensor in. It made a small difference but since I sealed up my exhaust leak I am now running lean. 15.5 at idle unless it does its weird thing where it revs low and leans to 17. It is at like 14.5 in cruise AND BOOST! Sometimes it will go to 13.5 but I have checked EVERYTHING including moving my fuel pressure up to 40 with vac plugged in so like 47 unplugged. What else can I try besides the above

Who wired your fuel pump? I've heard of problems with stock wiring not being up to par

[Danger_Dorn]

Really? hmm...I wired my own but I just cut and installed the new one

[Danger_Dorn]

Well I'm not too sure what else to do about my fp wiring. I just went an checked it and I soldered and shrink/heat wrapped it before. I could do a full hardwire but I'm not sure if its necessary and I haven't been able to find a white up

[inopsey]

I have my coilpacks grounded with the OEM grounding point (good or bad?)
I have a ground from the Intake manifold to firewall, and a ground from near exhaust to fenderwell. Maf is grounded to fenderwell with 2mv resistance.



your maf is grounded internally to the ecu, not sure why you added another ground to that. what do you have grounded from near the exhaust to the fenderwell. i doubt you need extra grounds above what factory gives you provided you have good contact at oem locations and good wire.

[Danger_Dorn]

A lot of people re ground their maf because it reduces resistance and gives better response. I have extra grounds because they never hurt and I have read that people found they benefit.

[ultimateirving]

Well I'm not too sure what else to do about my fp wiring. I just went an checked it and I soldered and shrink/heat wrapped it before. I could do a full hardwire but I'm not sure if its necessary and I haven't been able to find a white up

Hey dorn check the voltage at the fuel pump wires if you can with the car idling, I've read in other posts that the stock wiring isn't up to par or some shit. Dunno why that would be the case, buttt low voltage to the pump could be a problem all around

[inopsey]

A lot of people re ground their maf because it reduces resistance and gives better response. I have extra grounds because they never hurt and I have read that people found they benefit.

when you make things more complicated than they have to be you might be causing other problems. if you brought it to me to fix first thing i would do is remove your ghetto wiring mods.

[Danger_Dorn]

There is nothing ghetto about it lol just like the coil packs have a chassis ground. Its just grounding the MAF to the chassis so you reduce resistance from .9 to .2 ohms.

Also as far as my fuel leak, turns out my fuel tank access hole gasket was rotted away so I RTV'd until i get a new one. Still running lean though. I turned up fuel pressure and it helped a little but still not in the 11-12s at boost. Is that goal for tuned cars or oem ones too? I run like 14 and richer in boost but nothing more than 13.5

[Mikester]

^^Definitely lean^^

Your ECU is #32? What is that? Isn't a redtop ECU 62, or was that a typo in the OP?

When you did the OEM rebuild, did you go to 86.5mm pistons; have any machine work done? OEM turbine & head gasket? Anything at all that would affect AFR's?

If you are losing fuel somewhere between the tank and the rail; adding fuel pressure will only exacerbate the problem. Best thing you can do is either set the FP to stock; or put on a stock regulator.

As far as adding a ground to your MAFS, perfectly fine. WS harnesses come with a chassis ground on the MAFS pigtail. I like the added security of knowing my MAFS ground is spot-on- and there is nothing ghetto about it.


Going back to the fuel pump... Do you have an aftermarket pump?

[fullthrottle]

He has a hole in his tank. That's it. It's very common. It's probably cracked or rusted through like a 1/4 of the way up your tank.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

[Danger_Dorn]

This will be a long one....When the motor was rebuilt I re-used my stock rods and pistons with new rings. I had the head and blocked decked and the appropriate cosworth metal headgasket installed with ARP's. Everything else internally is new oem. I have a walbro 255 fuel pump which is wired correctly via solder and shrink wrap and I checked it last night to make sure it was still in tact. My fuel tank "hole" was just the rubber o-ring on top was worn so I RTV'd it until my new one gets here. I filled up last night and no leaks. I'm running the stock t25 turbo and when the shop had it they said it was perfectly healthy for its age. No oil seepage or bad blades. I am running the 62 ecu yes it was a typo. I just installed a new SKINNY oem 02 sensor 2 nights ago and it kind of helped a little. I also had an exhaust leak from my t-elbow to the DP which I fixed with a new thick gasket. I am now running great while cruising but it still leans out at idle sometimes and its still around 13-14 in boost @ 12psi. My spark plugs are clean and gapped correctly. Next I might try cleaning my maf again, checking my TPS, MAF, and anywhere else for voltage/resistance. I am seriously about out of ideas other than my vacuum leak since my gauge reads -8 instead of -15 or whatevs. I made a smoke machine a few days ago but I dont know if it will work. Thanks again for the ideas! PS my ws harness did not come with a second ground but I made my own so nbd.

[NoPistons!]

Sucking in unmetered air would cause you to go lean for sure.

Check everything between the maf and the head.


All else fails do a compression test. Blowby will throw your afr's off also.

Also see if your cas walked from where you clocked it at. Timing also effects afr.


Only other thing i could tell you to check is your injectors. Take em out the rail, disconnect the coil packs, let the injectors (still in rail) rest in a drip pan and watch the spray pattern.


Best of luck. Good thing you have a wideband. Best purchase you can make for a turbo car.

[Danger_Dorn]

Ok so I've done alot of searching and finally have a list of things I need to do to fix my problems. I think its lean because of a vac leak probably in my intake manifold so I borrowed an air compressor to check it. Also it starts rough in the morning and I figured my starter signal switch, the one from your ignition to the ecu to enter "start mode" might not be connected (not sure if WS does this wire or not)

[Danger_Dorn]

Ok just went and did almost everything to try and figure this out. Tried my extra maf and no change. Maf is 1.5-1.6V at idle 8-900 rpm. Vac is still like -8. I used an air compressor and plugged it up to my maf location and sealed all leaks. I tested it up to 15 psi and heard no other leaks besides one small charge pipe one and the nipple under the TB which I fixed and still -8 vac. My tps is .50 volts and I tried .45 and .55 and there was no difference. I listened to all 4 injectors and they sound good and consistent. My last resort might be to buy a consult port and see if that yields anything. Anyone else have any ideas? I might try to plug my pcv and see if that changes anything. I know it rattles so thats not a problem.

Still having issues and it better not be my rings/lands because they were just inspected and re-ringed about 2.5k miles ago by a respectable shop.

[Danger_Dorn]

Sometimes at idle it will stay at 14.5 afr but it only does it once in a while and its at random. Then other times it will come to a stop, no matter how, and it just straight leans out. Any ideas? I dont think CTS has anything to do with it considering it does it cold and warm and my dash gauge reads pretty close.

[Davidna2fi]

Consult works wonders when diagnosing the nissan ECU systems for SRs. I see everything, and if you look at the manual for refrence points it'll pin point what areas are not reading right and possibly either a wiring issue or sensor is bad. Spend some coin and order one. I've used mine for years and it helps so much with any nissan engine.

[Danger_Dorn]

Cool Jackpot! Looks like i'll be getting one of them. Whats the best free program

[Davidna2fi]

Best program is ECUtalk, it can do a text type data logging file and it'll spit it out like this. Only get the USB type consult port, not the serial ones.

Consult Diagnostic OBD USB Interface 14 Pins Scanner Tool for Nissan | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Consult-Diagnostic-OBD-USB-Interface-14-Pins-Scanner-Tool-For-Nissan-/121160179233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c35b59e21) I use this one.

http://i.imgur.com/h4htGbl.jpg

[Danger_Dorn]

this is the one you bought? Cool. I just downloaded ecutalk. I hope I dont have like 30 engine codes lol. My light and CEL dont work.

[Danger_Dorn]

so I just went in a re-soldered my ecu light. Now I'm throwing 12 MAF, 13 CTS, and 34 Knock sensor. This is confusing because I'm not running rich...normally 2 of these would cause a rich condition. Strange. I'm soldering my maf ground back to stock to see if it still gets the code. Its weird because my maf voltage is within spec so I think the ground is whats causing the code. I checked my cts resistance and its 4.1 k ohms at 80 deg. F so thats within spec...knock sensor? who knows why that went off. Maybe its from having hard suspension

[Diehardsr20]

Is your cts specific for that year car/chassis? If I remember correctly when I last checked my cts (the 2 prong next to the single prong underneath intake runner number 1(the single prong is just the dash unit, doesn't affect ecu)) at 80f outside before first initial startup was 2.6 kilo ohms to normal operating temps at 0.8 kilo ohms.

You can bypass the knock sensor buy installing a 1 k ohm resistor into the pigtails just until you can figure out the problem. From what I've read nissan knock sensors are constantly sensitive and it gets worse with stiffer suspension, etc. Just keep an eye on those wideband readings. You go lean you grenade your engine.

I had the same problem recently with mpg and I have to say its a vacuum/boost leak somewhere. After I installed an afpr (walbro 255 instal) and found my leak (normal op temps @ idle should be 15inhg), it doesn't take a quarter of a tank to drive 30 miles now. Before finding my leaking pcv I was @ 9inhg at idle with normal temps. Also, with the leak my startups were crap. After the leak was fixed startup improved.
My 2 cents. Hope it helps you.

[Danger_Dorn]

Is your cts specific for that year car/chassis? If I remember correctly when I last checked my cts (the 2 prong next to the single prong underneath intake runner number 1(the single prong is just the dash unit, doesn't affect ecu)) at 80f outside before first initial startup was 2.6 kilo ohms to normal operating temps at 0.8 kilo ohms.

You can bypass the knock sensor buy installing a 1 k ohm resistor into the pigtails just until you can figure out the problem. From what I've read nissan knock sensors are constantly sensitive and it gets worse with stiffer suspension, etc. Just keep an eye on those wideband readings. You go lean you grenade your engine.

I had the same problem recently with mpg and I have to say its a vacuum/boost leak somewhere. After I installed an afpr (walbro 255 instal) and found my leak (normal op temps @ idle should be 15inhg), it doesn't take a quarter of a tank to drive 30 miles now. Before finding my leaking pcv I was @ 9inhg at idle with normal temps. Also, with the leak my startups were crap. After the leak was fixed startup improved.
My 2 cents. Hope it helps you.

Thanks man yeah my vac is like -9 right now so should I test the pcv by blocking it off? It rattles but could still be f'd up.

[Danger_Dorn]

I just went out and spent way too long probing my ecu and cleaning connections. i reset my ecu via screw and took it for a drive. No codes for now. I'm sure they'll be back but its running alot better atm. When I get my consult port I'll update again. I think this thread should be archived for future reference.

[Davidna2fi]

Danger Dorn, the vacuum should read at least a minimum of 18 inhg with stock cams, if its around 21 inhg then its very healthy at idle. Look for diagrams on how to correctly hook up vacuum lines on a boosted SR20. Also do not T anything off the FPR vacuum line.

[Danger_Dorn]

I haven't t'd anything...I have my FPR on the right nipple, Boost gauge on the left nipple, bottom one is plugged, pcv is good, brake booster good. My wastegate (hks 12 psi internal) is plumbed into my hot pipe securely. The only thing in question might be where the oil catch T's there is a microfilter on the part facing you. Like "Filter -Valve cover T- Catch can" but from what I understand this is either done where you put a filter on it or you put a line back into your intake which I may do tomorrow. I cant think of anything else that can be killing my vac leak other than rings/lands but this motor only has 2.5k miles on it with new rings

[Danger_Dorn]

Danger Dorn, the vacuum should read at least a minimum of 18 inhg with stock cams, if its around 21 inhg then its very healthy at idle. Look for diagrams on how to correctly hook up vacuum lines on a boosted SR20. Also do not T anything off the FPR vacuum line.

I'm pulling -8 PSI. Which psi to inHg Converter, Chart -- EndMemo (http://www.endmemo.com/sconvert/psiinhg.php)

So is my vac actually good?

[Diehardsr20]

I'm pulling -8 PSI. Which psi to inHg Converter, Chart -- EndMemo (http://www.endmemo.com/sconvert/psiinhg.php)

So is my vac actually good?

I believe the -8 psi you mean 8 inhg, or 8 on the vacuum side of your boost gauge (needle indicator read, analog/manual gauge. Above zero (aka boost) is read in psi, below zero (aka vacuum) is read in inhg). These gauges already make the calculation for you. If the needle points to 5 ABOVE zero your boosting 5 psi. If your idling or cruising along and your needle points to 5 BELOW zero then you are reading 5 inhg. If this is correct and you really are at 8 inhg you have a leak somewhere.

If you have a digital boost gauge that shows readings ONLY in psi (digital l.e.d. display with 2 or 3 digit capability) then your fine (-8 psi (in the sense that it ONLY displays readings in PSI ) is 16 inhg) @ idle/vacuum then you dont have a leak more than likely. (Keep in mind there are digital boost gauges that are programmed to read like the first gauge i described above. It always helps to know what type of gauge your using and how exaclty it performs)

Have you done a compression test of all 4 cylinders? Shouldn't be bad after a rebuild but you never know.



If your pcv is in the valve cover but has some play when moving it around or you can pull it out of the valve cover with literally no force try this:

Pull the pcv T off the valve cover. Clean the exposed port on the T, and the opening where it is inserted in the valve cover.. Take a small layer of electrical tape and wrap the exposed T port once, maybe twice at the max. Dont block the pcv lines or port opening in anyway. Your car has to have a pcv system. Now with a bit of force push the pcv valve port (wrapped in tape) back into the valve cover. Its ok if the tape sort of slides back a little but you should notice a stiffer difference than when you first pulled it out. It should slide back in with small force and the tape acts as a seal between the port going into the valve cover, and the actual valve cover opening itself. If thats what fixes your vacuum leak then you know and will now have to seal it the right way asap (that tape won't last long). A rubber sleeve or a bit of shrink wrap over the end would probably hold longer. Thats what I ended up doing to fix my vacuum leak. Better seal means better vacuum. Hope that helps.



Also just double checking. You said your catch can setup includes an atmospheric vent? :

Oil drain back into engine block ---- pcv T ----- catch can ----- intake boot nipple ()
#########################Valve cover##########################

THIS IS MY CATCH CAN WITH PCV ROUTING. ITS WORKED FOR ME FLAWLESSLY
If I remember correctly on turbocharged vehicles you CANNOT vent pcv to atmosphere like you can on a Naturally Aspirated engine.



NOT TRYING TO FLOOD YOU WITH INFORMATION, BUT HERE IS A WAY TO HUNT FOR VACUUM LEAKS :
you can develop vacuum leaks from small things really. A can of ether is your best friend in a way. Go along spraying it where a vacuum leak could occur (intake manifold gasket, throttle body, bov, intercooler, intercooler piping, all your clamps, etc) Only if nothing else seems to of worked and the compression test passed. If you have a vacuum leak whenever you spray that ether on the vacuum leak you should get a noticeable change in idle. E.G: engine is idleing, normal temps, you spray the intake manifold where it meets the cylinder head by intake runner number 2 with a mist of ether, you notice your idle kicks up for a couple seconds then goes back. If this spot affects your idle from the ether being sucked into the system you have found your vacuum leak, which in this hypothetical case could be a loose manifold or bad intake gasket. This is an all out if everything has failed. Ether is extremely flamible and dousing your engine in it isn't a bright idea but in easy moderation it can help you find your leak.

If you didn't know ether is basicly starting fluid. Also don't spray in a way that will suck ether thru your maf. They tend to not like it

[Danger_Dorn]

Yes I am running 2 fpr's. No this is not a problem it works just fine. The thing in question is my air intake and oil catch setup.

[Danger_Dorn]

https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1240424_10202083077422001_848711002_n.jpg

[Diehardsr20]

(In edit) (in edit)

[Danger_Dorn]

https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/946392_10202083080182070_497635862_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1375007_10202083080142069_1623786612_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/558857_10202083080222071_1944732318_n.jpg

[Danger_Dorn]

My email posted your reply but here is says "in edit in edit". The copper piece in my hot pipe is my wastegate line. Its sealed well. i charged my system to 18 psi last night and had zero leaks.

[cotbu]

I have never seen a system that doesn't leak! I can only imagine you did the test correctly.
But.... how long did the system hold 18psi. Oh and is that just intercooler piping. Or intake manifold and everything connected. Because I have people say, they have no leaks and come to find out they do, but I tend to point out, you'll have a pressure drop at the intercooler about 1-2psi and that's considered good.
That's 20psi at about 30secs then at a minute 18psi. just intecooler piping. The entire system never holds more than 10-11 after a minute.

Please tell me that electrical tape isn't covering up a hole?-j/k but serious.

What's the deal with the 2 fpr? I have a setup sorta not really like that, but I drilled out the old oem fpr from a ka, fuel flows straight through it. But your is connected with a vacuum line otherwise a working unit connected to an adjustable unit. If you care to explain why? I'd like to hear it.

Also it looks like the fuel feed line is connected wrong, going into the fpr. pictures are not really clear enough to say for sure, just enough to question. edit: fuel feed looks okay

[Diehardsr20]

Ok Picture 1 and Picture 2 here show how I have my pcv system with my oil catch can. It's setup as follows :

Oil drain back into engine block ---- pcv T ----- catch can ----- intake boot nipple ()
#########################Valve cover##########################

In picture 3 you can see my vacuum diagram from my Throttle body which is essentially how yours is setup. FPR to the left top nipple. BOV, WASTEGATE (I don't have a hotpipe nipple yet, but you do so your even better), and boost gauge are off the top right nipple. You have your bottom nipple capped. I still have my canister hooked up. either way will work

Picture 4 is where I ended up finding my initial vacuum leak. You see it was just not a tight enough fit between the port end and the valve cover itself. tape tightened the tolerance and made a better fit/seal. I'm still working on an actual piece to work. DO NOT keep the tape there for long. Electrical tape doesn't do well with heat. This was just to get it down the road.

Sorry about the edit post earlier i was posting with my phone and it glitched on me so I had to do this post with my laptop.

EDIT EDIT EDIT
1. I don't know why it inverted the pics. I just looked and they were normal on my phone. windows is refusing to let me rotate the original imagine so your going to have to strain a little bit. ^^^^ He's right by the way no system is entirely perfect leak free! EDIT Hold on finally got them to orient right. reattaching photos

2. See the scorched marks on the side of my cylinder head/valve cover? That's from the previous owner running a pcv setup like you have. He was playing with the car and oil made it into the filter and soaked down to the header. BOOM! big fire. wasn't very pretty. Left me with quite a few things to fix when I bought the car from him.

[Danger_Dorn]

@ Cotbu I had it hooked to an air compressor so i didn'ot really see how fast it lost pressure. The only sound I heard was coming from the valve cover T since blow by is going to happen. Would I be better off running a line from the T to my intake pipe since that's how stock is?

The electrical tape is not a hole. My hood hits there and vibrates so that take helps.

My fuel lines are in fact correct.

The 2 fpr's work this this. you have your stock one at 43 psi. I took the return line and plumbed it into my adjustable which currently is at 43 psi also. If I want I can turn it up to say...50. So now my oem FPR is just basically an adapter. It works just fine I have been driving on it for a few months. It works just fine.

I tested my manifold too via opening the throttle body. Solid w/o leaks. The only other air I heard was passing into the head.

Did I miss anything lol

[Danger_Dorn]

Oh also my valve cover T is not leaking but the filter could be an issue so maybe I'll recirculate it. Is the correct way

[cotbu]

@ Cotbu I had it hooked to an air compressor so i didn'ot really see how fast it lost pressure.
This is important, because if it doesn't hold the pressure then there's a leak. Although some leaks are considered controlled. aka controlled leaksThe only sound I heard was coming from the valve cover T since blow by is going to happen. Would I be better off running a line from the T to my intake pipe since that's how stock is? Yes you would.

The 2 fpr's work this this. you have your stock one at 43 psi. I took the return line and plumbed it into my adjustable which currently is at 43 psi also. If I want I can turn it up to say...50. So now my oem FPR is just basically an adapter. It works just fine I have been driving on it for a few months. It works just fine.
You are so incorrect here. an adapter is a straight through fitting. The eom fpr with vacuum connected is a restriction. Most adjustable fpr's adjust well above 50psi base fuel pressure is only 43.5psiI tested my manifold too via opening the throttle body. Solid w/o leaks. The only other air I heard was passing into the head.
You don't need to open the throttle body because of the AACV/AICV allows air to enter the manifold anyway, if you didn't turn off the air compressor? You can't say there are no leaks. Let's say you have an inner tube with a pencil diameter sized hole in it. you can fill it with air and it'll then leak out, that's a certainty, only time. Now if you keep pumping the correct amount of air in the tube it will stay inflated, even though the air is still leaking out.
AKA your leak free test.Oh also my valve cover T is not leaking but the filter could be an issue so maybe I'll recirculate it. Is the correct way This isn't true either but it should be recirculate as previously stated. Air would just pour out of there the way you've conducted your test. If the filter is not completely clogged. if it was you'd be knocking unless there's a bigger leak somewhere.

Guys we've done made all the stupid mistakes for you already, you should only have to pick a paint color and a wheel size. <--that's me joking after explaining.:naughty:

[ultimateirving]

Cotbu is right about the leaks. You should not have anything coming out of the valve cover. Your PVC valve on the Intake side is probably shot.
And get that double fpr out of there. It could be making your fuel system all weird and respond differently. I have a flow thru adapter and it looks much different.

This is important, because if it doesn't hold the pressure then there's a leak. Although some leaks are considered controlled. aka controlled leaksYes you would.

You are so incorrect here. an adapter is a straight through fitting. The eom fpr with vacuum connected is a restriction. Most adjustable fpr's adjust well above 50psi base fuel pressure is only 43.5psi
You don't need to open the throttle body because of the AACV/AICV allows air to enter the manifold anyway, if you didn't turn off the air compressor? You can't say there are no leaks. Let's say you have an inner tube with a pencil diameter sized hole in it. you can fill it with air and it'll then leak out, that's a certainty, only time. Now if you keep pumping the correct amount of air in the tube it will stay inflated, even though the air is still leaking out.
AKA your leak free test. This isn't true either but it should be recirculate as previously stated. Air would just pour out of there the way you've conducted your test. If the filter is not completely clogged. if it was you'd be knocking unless there's a bigger leak somewhere.

Guys we've done made all the stupid mistakes for you already, you should only have to pick a paint color and a wheel size. <--that's me joking after explaining.:naughty:

[zurud]

2 fpr? Is this a new drift trend? I bet it add 50 horsepower.

[Danger_Dorn]

Have you done it? Have you ever seen it done? No ass. It works fine. It runs the same as stock except you have the abilty to increase your fuel pressure with the backup of the oem one. I have two because I though the stock one died so I bought the afpr. It didnt change anything and the adaptor sucked so I put the stock fpr back on and decided to keep both.

Cotbu: Thanks for the tips, I have my consult port coming in today or tomorrow. I had codes 12,13, and 34. MAF, CTS, and KS. Deleted them and they havent come back so now its running better but still lean at idle. I'll be installing the line from my valve cover T to intake this weekend.

[inopsey]

Have you done it? Have you ever seen it done? No ass. It works fine. It runs the same as stock except you have the abilty to increase your fuel pressure with the backup of the oem one. I have two because I though the stock one died so I bought the afpr. It didnt change anything and the adaptor sucked so I put the stock fpr back on and decided to keep both.

Cotbu: Thanks for the tips, I have my consult port coming in today or tomorrow. I had codes 12,13, and 34. MAF, CTS, and KS. Deleted them and they havent come back so now its running better but still lean at idle. I'll be installing the line from my valve cover T to intake this weekend.

how do you expect to troubleshoot anything effectively when you have these type of non oem setups on a stock engine; and expect it to run stock? as i said before loose these ghetto modifications and put shit back as close as possible to stock if you want to fix your problem. this should be step one and until you do your wasting every ones time

[zurud]

No. I do not and would not run it. You are the only person on this planet that do it.

[Mikester]

Without being rude like those guys, I would recommend like whoever it was above said and just hollow out the OEM if you're going to keep the adjustable. An extra FPR in the system is not so much a backup as it is an additional point of potential failure. The tee in the system adds additional points of potential failure as well. When it comes to regulating fuel pressure, the KISS concept is the way to go.

Just my thoughts.

[Danger_Dorn]

Thanks Mike I will be reverting to stock fpr as long as my fpr is good. If not i will drill it out and use my afpr. I'll be doing my catch can line to my intake this weekend. Also my consult port just came in but I didnt realize my computer doesnt have the correct port so I need to shop around and try to find an adapter. I'll update what happens when I change a few things this weekend.

[ultimateirving]

Thanks Mike I will be reverting to stock fpr as long as my fpr is good. If not i will drill it out and use my afpr. I'll be doing my catch can line to my intake this weekend. Also my consult port just came in but I didnt realize my computer doesnt have the correct port so I need to shop around and try to find an adapter. I'll update what happens when I change a few things this weekend.

USB to rs232 serial adapter. You can thank me later. I recent got my consult all hooked up

[ultimateirving]

Also the ecu talk should show codes. Get conzult too its kinda nice and has some different features.. such as timing mode and codes are easier to read i think

[Danger_Dorn]

Irving did you buy yours online or at a store. I want to just go buy one but idk who has them. Ill try best buy then radioshack I guess

[ultimateirving]

Bought mine on eBay. It was a little fussy the first time I got it hooked up it wouldn't connect. But after some fiddling with the com ports I got it to connect.

[Danger_Dorn]

Just ordered an adapter cable but now I have a new problem lol. I just cant win :naw:

New problem is my clutch or my flywheel bolts came loose so I'll be doing that this weekend. The motor is running very well. I have to drive 20 miles to work on the high way and it pulls well with AFR's just about perfect.

I still have 2 fpr's but I did re route my valve cover t to my intake and I feel more safe from fire now.

But I guess this clutch thing will be fun. Good thing I have a place nearby I can rent a lift since my jack isnt big enough.

[Danger_Dorn]

I never thread sealed them so I guess its my own fault. I try to shift into any gear from neutral and it doesnt let my or it grinds. Also I hear a fair amount of noise when pressing or releasing as if the flywheel is touching the cluch all the time. Awesome

[Danger_Dorn]

So all my bolts were tight. It was my throw out bearing. Replaced it and now its good. Also I used 2 quarts lucas 80w90 and a half bottle of the oil stabilizer...works magic.

I have my consult with ecutalk and a conversion cable and cant get it to connect so I am working with the company to find out why. That's awesome.

I replaced the microfilter on the valve cover T with a line going to my intake...much better.

Still running the 2 fuel pressure regulators. Still running Great.

Also found out that my gauge is in fact measuring -8/-9 PSI. It has a switch on back to switch my reading to bar and it reads -.5/-.6 which in turn is equivalent to -16/-18 In.HG.

BAM BITCH :wiggle:

My car is now running awesome and now my only issue is my front cover leaks under heavy load. Sounds like a job for oil resistant rtv.

[ultimateirving]

Btw the consult
Connections are very finicky and susceptible to electro interference. Make sure your wires have decent shielding AND they aren't too close to any significant 12v wires. I had a bitch of a time getting mine to work the first time. Not to mention you need to fuck around in windows with the different com ports to make sure it's communicating with the serial> USB adapter.

[Danger_Dorn]

I'm not sure how to do this exactly but ill try to figure it out

[Danger_Dorn]

Well I got it to work. Not sure what I did but who cares. The only thing i found out of the ordinary is my idle is high. This thread is over but I do think this is a good vac/troubleshooting reference.