Maloner
05-07-2013, 09:26 PM
I apologize in advance if there are a million forums talking about this, but I can't seem to find them.
I just swapped an s13 sr20det/trans/ecu(e5) into my s14 1998 kouki.
Started the car up and it idled fairly well without a MAF on it at all, however the second I touched the throttle, the idle would immediately drop making it want to die. Typical 'no maf' symptom. Ordered the s13 (52f00) sr20det maf since the sohc ka24 maf wasn't working (40f00) and it just shipped in today. Put it on the car and it barely wanted to idle and in order to get it to rev I would need to stab the throttle over and over again. When I drove it around the block the thing would buck me back and forth from not running right. I was thinking the MAF just needed to send some signals to the ECU so it could 'retrain' and get used to reading the signals. Anyways, I noticed it wasn't getting any better and the car still struggled to idle so I parked the car again and tried to figure out what was goin on.
First strange issue:
The blow off valve sucks in air when the throttle opens. When you place your hand over the BOV to keep it from sucking, the coupler going to the throttle body starts collapsing until the car dies. I figured there was something in the boost piping keeping the air from getting through causing the engine to overpower the spring inside the BOV. So then it clicks that when I painted my intercooler a few months ago, I had stuffed rags in each side as to keep anything from getting into the inside of the intercooler while painting....I then pull apart the boost piping and proceed to remove the rags from the intercooler. I for sure thought I had already pulled them out :duh: I then hooked all the piping back up. Oddly enough the car idled! I double checked the rest of my boost piping to make sure no more rags were anywhere :duh: and didn't see anything. However the bov still wants to suck in air and when I give the car gas the rpm's drop but then start misfiring when I hold the throttle in one place and the rpm's struggle to stay up.
I bought a brand new upper wiring harness convering the s13 to the s14 1998 chassis from wiring specialties so I'm sure the wiring aspect is all sound. The MAF is BRAND new out of the box w/ the right part numbers so the only thing I can think of is improper vacuum line routing?
I'm going insane right now because my daily crapped out on me last week and I've been getting rides all over the place from my buddies (bless their hearts) and I was CERTAIN the MAF was going to fix the running issues.
I used the boost piping that was originally on the car from the last sr20 that was in the chassis that decided to blow up due to funky wiring and tuning so I know the piping is good and the BOV worked when I removed all the piping prior. It had never sucked air in when I gave it gas before.
Any ideas? I was so deflated today when my car didn't want to run. I'm about 4.5k deep into the car w/ this swap now. I'd like to not buy a new BOV and find out it wasn't the BOV.
HELP!!!!!
I just swapped an s13 sr20det/trans/ecu(e5) into my s14 1998 kouki.
Started the car up and it idled fairly well without a MAF on it at all, however the second I touched the throttle, the idle would immediately drop making it want to die. Typical 'no maf' symptom. Ordered the s13 (52f00) sr20det maf since the sohc ka24 maf wasn't working (40f00) and it just shipped in today. Put it on the car and it barely wanted to idle and in order to get it to rev I would need to stab the throttle over and over again. When I drove it around the block the thing would buck me back and forth from not running right. I was thinking the MAF just needed to send some signals to the ECU so it could 'retrain' and get used to reading the signals. Anyways, I noticed it wasn't getting any better and the car still struggled to idle so I parked the car again and tried to figure out what was goin on.
First strange issue:
The blow off valve sucks in air when the throttle opens. When you place your hand over the BOV to keep it from sucking, the coupler going to the throttle body starts collapsing until the car dies. I figured there was something in the boost piping keeping the air from getting through causing the engine to overpower the spring inside the BOV. So then it clicks that when I painted my intercooler a few months ago, I had stuffed rags in each side as to keep anything from getting into the inside of the intercooler while painting....I then pull apart the boost piping and proceed to remove the rags from the intercooler. I for sure thought I had already pulled them out :duh: I then hooked all the piping back up. Oddly enough the car idled! I double checked the rest of my boost piping to make sure no more rags were anywhere :duh: and didn't see anything. However the bov still wants to suck in air and when I give the car gas the rpm's drop but then start misfiring when I hold the throttle in one place and the rpm's struggle to stay up.
I bought a brand new upper wiring harness convering the s13 to the s14 1998 chassis from wiring specialties so I'm sure the wiring aspect is all sound. The MAF is BRAND new out of the box w/ the right part numbers so the only thing I can think of is improper vacuum line routing?
I'm going insane right now because my daily crapped out on me last week and I've been getting rides all over the place from my buddies (bless their hearts) and I was CERTAIN the MAF was going to fix the running issues.
I used the boost piping that was originally on the car from the last sr20 that was in the chassis that decided to blow up due to funky wiring and tuning so I know the piping is good and the BOV worked when I removed all the piping prior. It had never sucked air in when I gave it gas before.
Any ideas? I was so deflated today when my car didn't want to run. I'm about 4.5k deep into the car w/ this swap now. I'd like to not buy a new BOV and find out it wasn't the BOV.
HELP!!!!!