SR20DET Redtop overheating when driving more than 20 miles on highway

[Nissan2nr22]

Title pretty much sums it all

Engine is all stock, original.

I drive 15 miles from work to home daily twice and the cars fine, heat gauge is a little below half.

Yesterday I had to drive to Miami, at about 20-30 miles in heat slowly started rising till almost the top.

Obviously I pulled over before it hit the top, cooled the radiator down.

I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH

Heres what friends are telling me:

1) From Previous owner, he said : Redtops arent made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.

2) Friend said : It could be the water pump?

3) Mechanic said : You need a better radiator.



Does anyone here know or is familiar with this problem? How did you fix it? Please tell me I really need to be able to travel longer distances.

[No 240.. No id]

1) From Previous owner, he said : Redtops arent made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.

This is a joke. So a car is not suppose to be driven over 65mph? lol
2) Friend said : It could be the water pump?
Possibly, something very common with sr's. Ill do the thermostat and the water pump at the same time.
3) Mechanic said : You need a better radiator.
Stock rad. should do fine if you are not abusing the car.

Do you have stock clutch fan? You got a shroud?

[ultimateirving]

Start with the fan and shroud if you dont have one.
Also have you opened up the radiator to see how much coolant? Any air in the system can cause it to run hot especially after a few miles of driving. Sounds to me like previous owner was an idiot so I would be going thru the whole cooling system to see what he has done.

[SharkMan]

First things first check the fan, do you have an e fan? Make sure that what ever fan you have is functioning properly. Second(most common) your thermostat, if its stuck closed of bad when your car starts to heat up if you top hose s bloating and hard to squeeze(careful could be really hot) then its closed and it should be open. Or you can always take it off and place it into boiling water and see if it opens. Either way if it doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Start with bleeding the coolant system. Jack the front of the car up as high as you can, massage the upper radiator hose to get air out of the system, pop the radiator cap, turn the car on, turn your heater on full blast and continue massaging the upper radiator hose. Keep the car topped off, keep massaging until you start feeling the hose get hot. Put the cap back on and just let it run. Feel the lower rad hose to see if that gets hot after a few minutes, if it does, that means your thermostat is working and letting coolant back into the engine from the radiator.

[Nissan2nr22]

Thanks for your replies, I will do all the suggestions later today (7est) and get back.

I opened the coolant and it seemed fine.

I have the original fan with fan shroud, the one thats always spinning, so it can't not function right.

There isn't much of an opening for air to flow through, could that be the reason when my cars working harder?

Abusing? Thats the funny part I whip it all over the streets, on highway im just driving at 70-80mph @ about 3-4000 rpms and after about 20 miles it starts rising, driving normally.

[Prok0]

Do you have a thermostat in the motor?

If you do not its possible the coolant is moving too quickly through the radiator at higher engine revs and the coolant is not sitting in the radiator long enough to transfer heat and cool.

I noticed when driving down to south FL my car would start to get hotter, not really overheat, then I would clutch in and put the car in neutral, coast for 30-40 seconds and put it back in 5th and the coolant temps would drop a few degrees then start to climb back up slowly over time, as the coolant was pushing through the rad too fast I am guessing.

I have the Koyo Aluminum rad, C&R surge tank, and a stock thermostat drillled out to provide constant coolant flow to the surge.

[Nissan2nr22]

That could be it, it makes sense cause it only happens at high speeds!

[Croustibat]

Title pretty much sums it all

Engine is all stock, original.

I drive 15 miles from work to home daily twice and the cars fine, heat gauge is a little below half.

Yesterday I had to drive to Miami, at about 20-30 miles in heat slowly started rising till almost the top.

Obviously I pulled over before it hit the top, cooled the radiator down.

I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH

Heres what friends are telling me:

1) From Previous owner, he said : Redtops arent made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.

2) Friend said : It could be the water pump?

3) Mechanic said : You need a better radiator.



Does anyone here know or is familiar with this problem? How did you fix it? Please tell me I really need to be able to travel longer distances.

considering what the previous owner said, i think the head is warped and the headgasket is gone. The 6spd is weak as shit, and the T28 turbo is good enough for around 300HP, which allows me to reach 160mph without much trouble. On a CA18det, so with 10% less displacement.

The oem fan CAN go wrong. There is a viscous coupler, which works just like a VLSD. When it needs cooling, the clutch makes the fan spins as fast as the pulley. When it does not, the clutch only transmits a fraction of power and the fan turns slower. Sometimes the clutch dies, and it cant spin fast. And sometimes it cant disengage. Trust me, you know when that happens.

Anyway yes it can go bad, and nearly no other fan system works better.

People go electric either because they want less load on the engine, or need more room, or because they want to follow the crowd, believing it is better ... but electric fans are no better. Your oem fans can eat quite some HPs (sometimes as far as 5 ...that is 3700W, which on a 14V system is 266 amps. Your alternator will never be able to produce that)


But seriously, find the previous owner and give him back his piece of shite for a full refund.

[pacotaco345]

Do you have proper fencing to your radiator? My car would always run between 175* & 185* in traffic and under little load, but on the freeway it would get to ~200 because the fan (whether it be clutch or electric) loses its efficiency after about 40 mph. I cut out some cardboard just to test if some shrouding would lower my coolant temps and guess what, it did, by about 15* on a stock radiator.

[OrangeVirus1]

Dude, an engine doesn't know what 65MPH even is. The engine doesn't care how fast it's going, the only thing the engine does is spin ( RPM ) lol...

Flush the coolant, check / replace water pump, and invest in some good fans.

[jr_ss]

Dude, an engine doesn't know what 65MPH even is. The engine doesn't care how fast it's going, the only thing the engine does is spin ( RPM ) lol...

Flush the coolant, check / replace water pump, and invest in some good fans.

You're missing the point...

Anytime your moving at speeds >25mph you really shouldn't need to have a fan engaged unless your beating the piss out of it. Obviously when your traveling at higher speeds youre creating more heat.

The cooling system is simple. Like others have stated;

-Check to see if you even have a thermostat
-Do you have all the factory ducting? Fan shroud is there, but what about the lower splash gaurd?
-Fill system up and bleed (Like Flip suggested)
-Pressure test the system to see if you have any visible leaks.
-With the cap off, see if there are continuous bubbles coming out (Lets hope not)

[Kingtal0n]

wow. this is my car. Everything is OEM and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

the water pump is brand new I just changed it a month or two ago. It pressurizes just fine to oem specifications and you know damn well Its got the OEM thermostat.
some creative ducting might help; the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

[No 240.. No id]

wow. This is my car. Everything is oem and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600rpm on the highway in florida weather; thats it. The turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. Otherwise, i told him to just drive 65mph @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80mph and 3600rpm the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that t-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise rpm. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
b; better gearing
c; drive slower (3000rpm and 10" vacuum)
d; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish rpm
e; cooling system upgrade (but i prefer oem radiator)

the water pump is brand new i just changed it a month or two ago. It pressurizes just fine to oem specifications and you know damn well its got the oem thermostat.
Some creative ducting might help; the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+rpm for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. Period.


wow.......

[240boi115]

how the hell are you going to say a motor cant operate properly at its factory settings? if that were the case the motor wouldnt have been put in the nissan cars.... maybe im missing the point here.. has anyone considered a freezeplug issue? no fluids are leaking?

[Kingtal0n]

how the hell are you going to say a motor cant operate properly at its factory settings? if that were the case the motor wouldnt have been put in the nissan cars.... maybe im missing the point here.. has anyone considered a freezeplug issue? no fluids are leaking?


I am going to humor everyone in this thread for fun that doesnt know me. For those of you that do... sit back and enjoy the show.


now, I wonder who is missing the point here. I love this.
Since when was this engine installed in any Nissan cars in America? Hmm I wonder why it was never installed in Nissan cars in America. I wonder if it has anything to do with our... climate... whos to say :tinhat:


I am not going to be gentle so do your homework before you post up

next question

[cotbu]

I just skimmed through this thread, but OP, seems like you got beat! aka sold a lemon! Fact, Florida is not the hottest place in the united states. The next few days temps in Arizona will be hotter than Florida for instance.

Being that we/I know were the seller stands on the performance of a stock engine, I think that he actually believes what he is telling you, when he said
Redtops aren't made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.wow. this is my car. Everything is OEM and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

I really don't think you should take on this project, there's definitely issues somewhere, be it a blown, warped or just a shitty build. Maybe you could get a refund or have the seller fix the obvious issue of overheating.

[OrangeVirus1]

D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives

yes OP, just take the intercooler pipe off the turbo. the maf is useless anyway.


By the way, I can make engine Vacuum whatever I want at whatever RPM I want... I can have 20" at 8k rpm..

[jr_ss]

Kingalton, I drove my S14 sr20det w/ BPU's without one issue of overheating on the interstate at 80mph set on cruise w/ stints of 100mph pulls. I never once had to pull over to cool the car down. Regardless of how well you took care of your car, there is an underlying issue here and it needs to be fixed and/or upgraded.

With that said, don't play that drive at 65mph/>3000rpms crap. All cars in this day and age cruise at 80mph and 3500rpms and dont over heat. Hell my STI at 80mph was at 33-3400rpms, was probably at 6-7inhg and I never overheated.

And why the hell would you ever recommend to disconnect the Turbine?

[OrangeVirus1]

Since when does your vacuum have to do with overheating anyway, I cruise at 0'' vacuum all the time

[ultimateirving]

wow. this is my car. Everything is OEM and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

the water pump is brand new I just changed it a month or two ago. It pressurizes just fine to oem specifications and you know damn well Its got the OEM thermostat.
some creative ducting might help; the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

Hey buddy, i Drive 80 mph to work daily in ARIZONA ie 115* heat easy in the summer. Now this is with the a/c on and the stock radiator And i am not overheating. S13 sr with 91 or e85 it doesnt matter what tune im on.

[13esim]

So on the highway it overheats? not the city? Your fan is fine, the fan is there to bring air through the radiator when your car is moving slower or at a stop. On the highway you already have air flowing through the radiator so the fan shouldn't even be functioning. The problem lies within your radiator.

Do a visual and look to see if there is anything noticeably wrong with your radiator (Plastic bag stuck, trash leaves stuck, damage etc.)

Also look at the fins on the radiator to see if they are damaged or if they look greenish

[Kingtal0n]

#1: I put the car together FOUR years ago and daily drove it for four years thousands of miles and never had a single issue.

Then, suddenly, a new owner takes it and it's "over heating" ? interesting.


#2: Since I daily'd that car for four years, I know everything about it. I know exactly what it takes to overheat that engine on the highway. It needs to be run hard in 5th gear for 5-30 miles to see the temp gauge start creeping up. Not actually overheating, notice he never said radiator was leaking or blowing smoke or anything like that; its just getting hot and the temp gauge is walking up.


To cotbu: you shouldnt fuck with people like that on the internet, especially noobs. This kid doesnt know anything about cars and he might take you seriously. Theres a video somewhere of him free-revving it in neutral for @#(* sake.

To people with T-28's: This is not a S14 sr20det, this is a 1990 redtop with a T-25 from a 180sx that had 33,000miles when I swapped it into that vehicle with ALL oem equipment. If it does ANYTHING its because the OEM components are not up to the challenge. After cruising for 20 minutes at 80MPH the hot pipe is over 150*F and impossible to touch.


Lets get one more single thing straight: you do NOT run a redtop at 3500rpms continously because it will eat up the engine bearings. This is a 25 year old antique engine. I was able to drive it daily because I babied it and I told the kid that I did and warned him not to beat on it. I dont care if its "getting hot" or not; you dont run a redtop at 3500rpm+ continously on the highway. period. Anyone that disagrees has their own opinion and they can pay for his engine bearings when it develops a rod knock.

[Kingtal0n]

To the new owner: why dont you get a video of how you are driving the car when it starts "overheating"? That would settle this once and for all, wouldn't it? Hell, bring the car by me and I will take the video myself using my camera on I-95 and show everybody exactly what it takes to get that gauge to start moving up. I know exactly what you are doing to that engine. You need to drive it less aggressively or it will not last very long.

[Kingtal0n]

On some level I still feel like I own the car and that I need to depend on it daily to get me to school... that is why I express this level of concern regarding the RPM of the engine on the highway. The truth is... If the new owner understands the risks of operating the antique engine at 3500+rpm continously on the highway.... then I would simply recommend a bit of creative ducting or an upgraded radiator as a permanent fix to this "problem". JUST REMEMBER to add an oil cooler ALSO. And the reason it was never a "problem" for me was because I understand the limitations of the antique redtop engines having owned several of them in the past and I knew that I could never bring myself to steady cruise at 3500+rpm on the highway, therefore, an upgraded radiator was unnecessary.

Ive done fifty or more swaps, most of them documented, and at least 10 redtop swaps and this was the cleanest swap Ive ever seen. You cant ask for anything more than all oem equipment and every possible nut and bolt in the right place with the right torque specification. Thats exactly what he is driving. This is not a "build" this is an OEM engine with full oem equipment and around 50k miles tops.

"So kingtal0n, are you saying that a stock 180sx from Japan from 1990 if brought to Florida, and run on an 80*F day, at 80MPH+ and 3500rpm+ for extended periods of time some of which is spent in boost will probably get hot and move the temp gauge up?"

Kingtal0n: yes thats exactly what I am saying. And until I see someone with a 180sx here in Florida that can prove me wrong you just wont know. Sorry if I seem heated. No it doesnt get hot at night and no it doesnt get hot on a cold day either. And disconnecting the turbine is a GREAT way to preserve the life of the turbocharger AND the life of the engine oil on these redtop engines.

[240boi115]

I am going to humor everyone in this thread for fun that doesnt know me. For those of you that do... sit back and enjoy the show.


now, I wonder who is missing the point here. I love this.
Since when was this engine installed in any Nissan cars in America? Hmm I wonder why it was never installed in Nissan cars in America. I wonder if it has anything to do with our... climate... whos to say :tinhat:


I am not going to be gentle so do your homework before you post up

next question

youre meaning to tell me that there is no other country with weather like flordia or worse in which the sr20 was used in a car??? really....i can agree with you on its age but im sure that the motor wasnt designed the way your saying it is.. im aware that we didnt get the sr here. im not stupid

[Nissan2nr22]

It actually gets hot at night too for driving in highway, even when its raining.

Im in the process of installing a new mishimito radiators with new hoses and fans.

Will post back with updates.

[OrangeVirus1]

It actually gets hot at night too for driving in highway, even when its raining.

Im in the process of installing a new mishimito radiators with new hoses and fans.

Will post back with updates.

Look the real reason it's overheating is because my penis is so small.


I'm sorry but if you listen to anything on this thread, you are retarded.

If you run your engine at 3500 rpm's it will eat the bearings.. because OIL has no fucking use at 3500 RPM
and disconnect your turbo

I mean Gesus fucking christ, even I don't say shit that retarded

[ultimateirving]

I dont agree with anything said about what kingtalon says.
Why would an engine that factory redlines at over 7k rpm, Have issues cruising at 3k
Eat up the engine bearings?
How do you come up with this?

[OrangeVirus1]

I dont agree with anything said about what kingtalon says.
Why would an engine that factory redlines at over 7k rpm, Have issues cruising at 3k
Eat up the engine bearings?
How do you come up with this?

Don't worry he also believes you have to Tune the Stock carbs on the SR to get full boost and that oil is optional.

[fliprayzin240sx]

WTF just happened to this thread? SR20s are not supposed to be driven pass 65mph? WTF are you smoking? So how come they never over heat in Germany where people would drive these fucking things over 120-130mph with no issue?

E-fans sucks on these cars period. My car would slowly creep up to 100 degrees with my AC on cruising. Changed the damn thing to the stock shroud and fan, car never got hotter than 85 degrees again DD. Drifted the shit out of it in hot ass Oki weather for 45 mins straight and thing never got over 90*. This same thing applies for RBs, I personally folks who have had overheating issues with E-fans, switched to stock fan and shroud and car never overheated again. This includes 800-1000whp RB26 guys I knew.

Back to the OP, do you have an aftermarket water temp gauge for this thing? Would it be possible that the stock water temp sensor is bad or stock gauge going bad?

[240boi115]

WTF just happened to this thread? SR20s are not supposed to be driven pass 65mph? WTF are you smoking? So how come they never over heat in Germany where people would drive these fucking things over 120-130mph with no issue?

E-fans sucks on these cars period. My car would slowly creep up to 100 degrees with my AC on cruising. Changed the damn thing to the stock shroud and fan, car never got hotter than 85 degrees again DD. Drifted the shit out of it in hot ass Oki weather for 45 mins straight and thing never got over 90*. This same thing applies for RBs, I personally folks who have had overheating issues with E-fans, switched to stock fan and shroud and car never overheated again. This includes 800-1000whp RB26 guys I knew.

Back to the OP, do you have an aftermarket water temp gauge for this thing? Would it be possible that the stock water temp sensor is bad or stock gauge going bad?

this!^^^ jesus! what engine in the world cant be driven at 3500 rpm without overheating?!?!?! especially an sr20 did you check to see if the fans even work correctly? if not just go back to the stock fan

[Frank_Jaeger]

Guys you're forgetting... the SR is an antique engine.

[Nissan2nr22]

This thread just got even more hilarious lol.

Do you guys have any idea if the stock shroud will fit on the mishimito radiator?

I was going to order the fans and shrouds from mishimito but if yall are saying OEM is better I might as well give it a try first

[Sileighty_85]

Wow.... Kingtal0n you sir are the King..... Of Retards


This thread just got even more hilarious lol.

Do you guys have any idea if the stock shroud will fit on the mishimito radiator?

I was going to order the fans and shrouds from mishimito but if yall are saying OEM is better I might as well give it a try first


Id def go with an OEM fan setup over Mishimoto E-Fans. Unless they were some Flex a lite fans with a Thermal relay setup

[jr_ss]

This thread just got even more hilarious lol.

Do you guys have any idea if the stock shroud will fit on the mishimito radiator?

I was going to order the fans and shrouds from mishimito but if yall are saying OEM is better I might as well give it a try first

The factory fan setup will give you better cooling capacity over the e-fans that are unshrouded like you see pictured on the radiator. Shrouded e-fans, such as F-A-Ls and others give you better cooling capacity, but can be unreliable. I'm not saying they are going to fail on you, but the mech fan does a great job of cooling.

Most people ditch the setup to free up power and years ago it was hard to source the correct radiator shroud needed for it. This is no longer the case as you can pretty much get the OE SR shroud anywhere that sells 240sx parts now-a-days.

From the looks of it, the Mishimoto radiator does have the tangs that the factory shroud bolts to, but you may have to do some trimming to make it fit good.

Wow.... Kingtal0n you sir are the King..... Of Retards...

Id def go with an OEM fan setup over Mishimoto E-Fans. Unless they were some Flex a lite fans with a Thermal relay setup

I've been tossing up the idea of ditching my F-A-Ls for the GKTECH upgraded clutch fan and a factory shroud setup. However, I've read that it doesn't work on engines that are running aftermarket engine mounts because they raise the engine just enough to case interference issues with the shroud and slightly larger GKTECH fan blade.

[Sileighty_85]

When ever I got back to the states im gonna put the OEM Fan setup on my SR. I have the ISIS efans on it right now (they looked batter than what i had on there before) but they dont pull enough CFM during drifting.

Thats a good thought on the fan. I was gonna buy one of those. hopefully there will be some reviews out soon

[Croustibat]

wow. this is my car.

That explains a lot of thing. I knew you were completely crazy, but i didnt think you were a crook.

You wrote some serious bullshit man. These engines can take a beating, not break a sweat and driving 90mph even in a hot weather is nothing like taking a beating :picardfp:


@OP > search for Kingtal0n posts here. I am not joking, he really IS crazy.

Like he abused LSD for years and years. And get your money back, if he built the car it cant work properly.

[OrangeVirus1]

That explains a lot of thing. I knew you were completely crazy, but i didnt think you were a crook.

@OP > search for Kingtal0n posts here. I am not joking, he really IS crazy.

Like he abused LSD for years and years. And get your money back, if he built the car it cant work properly.

This is Slander and defamation of Character.

Kingtal0n is obviously a certified mechanic.

Wow.... Kingtal0n you sir are the King..... Of Retards


which means I'm not. :)


OP here is what you need to do. Study up on how to work on cars. Then :
Take EVERYTHING off that engine. Get it down to bare long block.
Replace all the beat crappy old coolant hoses.
Replace the thermostat
Inspect the waterpump, probably needs replacing. his *new* waterpump was new from the junkyard most likely.
inspect the Radiator, replace if needed.
Install some ducting if necessary
Re-install all parts Correctly, cleanly.
Get a new air filter if needed.
install OEM clutch fan + shroud if you can
Invest in pusher fans infront of the radiator if you have a big intercooler.
If you have a stock sidemount, I'd recommend just upgrade it, hot intake temps can cause overheating.
Clean your turbo, try to get all the gunk out from the compressor as you can, it will help with induction and make the turbo work less.
Clean your throttlebody, EGR etc
Problems solved.

[Mikester]

wow. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.




#2: Since I daily'd that car for four years, I know everything about it.

To people with T-28's: This is not a S14 sr20det, this is a 1990 redtop with a T-25 from a 180sx that had 33,000miles when I swapped it into that vehicle with ALL oem equipment. If it does ANYTHING its because the OEM components are not up to the challenge. After cruising for 20 minutes at 80MPH the hot pipe is over 150*F and impossible to touch.

Lets get one more single thing straight: you do NOT run a redtop at 3500rpms continously because it will eat up the engine bearings. This is a 25 year old antique engine.

I know exactly what you are doing to that engine. You need to drive it less aggressively or it will not last very long.

JUST REMEMBER to add an oil cooler ALSO.
Ive done fifty or more swaps, most of them documented, and at least 10 redtop swaps and this was the cleanest swap Ive ever seen. This is not a "build" this is an OEM engine with full oem equipment and around 50k miles tops.

"So kingtal0n, are you saying that a stock 180sx from Japan from 1990 if brought to Florida, and run on an 80*F day, at 80MPH+ and 3500rpm+ for extended periods of time some of which is spent in boost will probably get hot and move the temp gauge up?"

Kingtal0n: yes thats exactly what I am saying. And disconnecting the turbine is a GREAT way to preserve the life of the turbocharger AND the life of the engine oil on these redtop engines.

Jesus... This poor kid belongs in an institution; or maybe a circus freak show. I can't say I wish him dead... because that would be wrong. I just wish his parents had been a little more open to late-term abortion once they realized he was going to be criminally retarded his whole life.

Can somebody PLEASE ban this douche???

OP- even though it sucks for you, I hope you learned a valuable lesson. That dick is NOT your friend... Get rid of the 240 and buy a honda until you know a little bit more about cars. Sorry this happened to you.

[OrangeVirus1]

Jesus... This poor kid belongs in an institution; or maybe a circus freak show. I can't say I wish him dead... because that would be wrong. I just wish his parents had been a little more open to late-term abortion once they realized he was going to be criminally retarded his whole life.

Can somebody PLEASE ban this douche???

OP- even though it sucks for you, I hope you learned a valuable lesson. That dick is NOT your friend... Get rid of the 240 and buy a honda until you know a little bit more about cars. Sorry this happened to you.

Banning the guy is a little over the top don't yah think.

So he sold the guy a Lemon POS and knew about it, lied about it.

every craigslist sale is like that.

Who has ever dealt with a craigslister that disclosed ALL information about their car? 1/10,000.

someone just needs to egg his house lol

[Mikester]

No I don't think so at all- and I have never even suggested banning anyone from any of the forums I'm on ever. This is the absolute exception IMHO- His whole mission in life has been to soil this forum with complete & utter trash from the get-go... I don't think he has made an intelligent post even once. Now we find out that he does shady business to boot... Fuck that- get rid of him; or at least ban him from posting in Tech Talk.

Albeit- I am confident Zilvia would be a better place w/out him.

[OrangeVirus1]

No I don't think so at all- and I have never even suggested banning anyone from any of the forums I'm on ever. This is the absolute exception IMHO- His whole mission in life has been to soil this forum with complete & utter trash from the get-go... I don't think he has made an intelligent post even once. Now we find out that he does shady business to boot... Fuck that- get rid of him; or at least ban him from posting in Tech Talk.

Albeit- I am confident Zilvia would be a better place w/out him.

When I read this, I was thinking of myself the entire time.
( although I'm not a shady seller )

Yeah I'd agree, Fraudulent sellers should be banned. with the shit he's said, there is no way he can justify himself.

Although he seems to be a long standing member here with feedback.

[Frank_Jaeger]

Like he abused LSD for years and years.
This is my suspicion as well.

[OrangeVirus1]

This is my suspicion as well.

You can't trust drug addicts.

[Kingtal0n]

haters gonna hate. mark my words: kid installs big radiator without also adding an oil cooler. coolant stays cool but the oil overheats while he drives over the speed limit (which, by the way, is what happens when you go past 3000rpm in 5th). oil breaks down, bearings are toast.

I give it 6 months to live.

also, how is giving somebody a car with fully complete OEM equipment being a "crook"? Especially since I told him it has full OEM equipment. Its not like I am hiding the fact its all OEM.
LOL not to mention the price. He stole it from me. For the price it may as well have been a shell. I wont repeat it here because he bought it to turn a profit.

so far in this thread all I see is people trying to get somebody who shouldnt be driving over the speed limit to drive over the speed limit. irresponsible?

[ultimateirving]

haters gonna hate. mark my words: kid installs big radiator without also adding an oil cooler. coolant stays cool but the oil overheats while he drives over the speed limit (which, by the way, is what happens when you go past 3000rpm in 5th). oil breaks down, bearings are toast.

I give it 6 months to live.

also, how is giving somebody a car with fully complete OEM equipment being a "crook"? Especially since I told him it has full OEM equipment. Its not like I am hiding the fact its all OEM.
LOL not to mention the price. He stole it from me. For the price it may as well have been a shell. I wont repeat it here because he bought it to turn a profit.

so far in this thread all I see is people trying to get somebody who shouldnt be driving over the speed limit to drive over the speed limit. irresponsible?
Well done! Im convinced. Great defense with the speed limit. I been waiting to see if you would chime in. again. Regular oil changes would keep the oil from getting severely degraded.

[240boi115]

haters gonna hate. mark my words: kid installs big radiator without also adding an oil cooler. coolant stays cool but the oil overheats while he drives over the speed limit (which, by the way, is what happens when you go past 3000rpm in 5th). oil breaks down, bearings are toast.

I give it 6 months to live.

also, how is giving somebody a car with fully complete OEM equipment being a "crook"? Especially since I told him it has full OEM equipment. Its not like I am hiding the fact its all OEM.
LOL not to mention the price. He stole it from me. For the price it may as well have been a shell. I wont repeat it here because he bought it to turn a profit.

so far in this thread all I see is people trying to get somebody who shouldnt be driving over the speed limit to drive over the speed limit. irresponsible?

if you take care of the motor and it doesnt have problems which is what it sounds like your saying then 5th gear at 3k isnt a problem. a bone stock sr with its oem fan can handle heat. and like i said before why the hell would nissan make a motor that issues with overheating and mass produce it?!?!! and none of us are telling him to speed. the real point here is that if he is having overheating problems with the motor at 3k then there is something wrong with it that needs to be fixed!

OP any news on the problem being solved?

[Kingtal0n]

if you take care of the motor and it doesnt have problems which is what it sounds like your saying then 5th gear at 3k isnt a problem. a bone stock sr with its oem fan can handle heat. and like i said before why the hell would nissan make a motor that issues with overheating and mass produce it?!?!! and none of us are telling him to speed. the real point here is that if he is having overheating problems with the motor at 3k then there is something wrong with it that needs to be fixed!

OP any news on the problem being solved?

I agree, 3k is no problem. 3k is 65mph. thats exactly where I told him to stay, well done good job. hes tryin to hit 3.5-4k continuously, 75-88mph. that IS a problem. too much friction, clearances are too tight for it. too much heat. rod bearing clearance on that engine is .0008" iirc. Turbine is too small. Once again, there is a reason they did not bring this engine to the USA and it has, in part, to do with climate.

[Kingtal0n]

Well done! Im convinced. Great defense with the speed limit. I been waiting to see if you would chime in. again. Regular oil changes would keep the oil from getting severely degraded.

do you actually own a redtop with the oem T-25?

Does anybody that is giving "advice" in this thread actually own a redtop with a T-25 that they daily drive?

If not, you have no business giving advice. period. I easily have 3x the experience with most of these engines than anybody in this thread. There is a REASON that there are barely any redtops left out there. Look around- do you see any? Show me some daily driven vehicles with redtops in the USA that you own. Post up. Ill match you swapped vehicle for swapped vehicle- you post I post. Guarantee you run out first.

[ultimateirving]

Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

[240boi115]

I agree, 3k is no problem. 3k is 65mph. thats exactly where I told him to stay, well done good job. hes tryin to hit 3.5-4k continuously, 75-88mph. that IS a problem. too much friction, clearances are too tight for it. too much heat. rod bearing clearance on that engine is .0008" iirc. Turbine is too small. Once again, there is a reason they did not bring this engine to the USA and it has, in part, to do with climate.

im still confused here i owned a s13 black top and did those speeds plenty of times and never had any issues my only add ons to the motor were a walbro 255 fuel pump and a larger exhaust I did regular oil changes and checked compression every month. s13 redtops are really that much weaker???:duh: and to solve this guys problem he'll need a larger turbo?im thinking climate wasnt the only factor in the U.S. not getting the sr.. im all for ditching the bashing against each other and help the OP out with advice...

[Kingtal0n]

Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

that wouldnt last more than a week. I know because Ive tried, back in 2004. You obviously have NOT since you would have known that already. Lack of experience is #1 in this thread.
post up pics of your redtop I want to see it.

[Kingtal0n]

im still confused here i owned a s13 black top and did those speeds plenty of times and never had any issues my only add ons to the motor were a walbro 255 fuel pump and a larger exhaust I did regular oil changes and checked compression every month. s13 redtops are really that much weaker???:duh: and to solve this guys problem he'll need a larger turbo?im thinking climate wasnt the only factor in the U.S. not getting the sr.. im all for ditching the bashing against each other and help the OP out with advice...

Where is it? post it up. what happened to it? I drove my car for four years- sometimes at those speeds as well. In fact I remember following a porsche on the highway at 85-102MPH for several miles in my car without an issue. The car can do it just fine. Just not for extended periods of time. Notice he neglected to get a video or even to respond to my offer to get a video. I ran that car hard, always in boost because thats what a T-25 does. I just didnt rev it past 5500rpm, and I let it cool off between 100mph bursts- like you are supposed to.

[ultimateirving]

My redtop is in my sig. It's now painted gold. I have a spare redtop valve cover if you'd like to see.

[Sileighty_85]

Hmm kinda weird that I've driven my SR on multiple 400 mile trips and (probably 17 times) @ 70-80mph for 5 years as well as driving 5 hours to Mineral Wells TX with 3 other SR'd chassis and never had a cooling issue.....

Even in Louisiana to where it was 100+ in the summers I never had issues.


D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM


I am very curious as to how you would do this.... Once up to highway speeds do you climb onto the hood and disconnect a pipe, Or do you disconnect it before getting on the highway?

Either way the car wont fucking run you idiot.

Even If if that did work how the fuck is the turbo even an over heating issue?

It sounds like your saying the hot air the turbo produces is heating up the engine?

Well guess what? There is this thing called an INTERCOOLER, Its like a radiator for the air that it cools the air before going in the engine. But even still the engine is gonna be hotter than the air entering the engine anyway.

[Mikester]

^^Why are you guys even bothering at this point??? Arguing with idiots like him is a nowhere road... They will just drag you down to their level; then beat you with experience.

We all know this kid has no fucking clue what he is talking about... nor will he listen to reason.

You are all wasting your time... Let this thread die.

[Sileighty_85]

Bored at work thats the only reason why lol

[Kingtal0n]

My redtop is in my sig. It's now painted gold. I have a spare redtop valve cover if you'd like to see.

so it has all oem equipment and you daily it? and you really drive it at 80mph (3500rpms) continuously on full OEM equipment for long distances, right?

=Either way the car wont fucking run you idiot.

Because you totally have tried and found that out, right? Funny how I drove that car 20% of the time without the turbine connected. Sounds to me like you simply have no clue how a turbocharger works.

[Kingtal0n]

^^Why are you guys even bothering at this point??? Arguing with idiots like him is a nowhere road... They will just drag you down to their level; then beat you with experience.

We all know this kid has no fucking clue what he is talking about... nor will he listen to reason.

You are all wasting your time... Let this thread die.

Oh no. The internet is such a serious place. Oh pleaase dont talk bad about me on dee internet.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/white_240sx/DVC04919.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/white_240sx/DVC04917.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/white_240sx/DVC04886.jpg

back in 05 or 06 I was doing this. Its been 10 years and Ive only gotten better at it.
Everytime I post now I am gonna post up a swap from my documented swaps I keep talkin about.
I suggest anybody that has a rotten mouth with anything negative to say do the same, since you want to disregard my 10 years of swap experience for your internet talk. talk is cheap.

[Mikester]

back in 05 or 06 I was doing this. Its been 10 years and Ive only gotten better at it.


FINALLY... Something we all can agree on- your stupidity skills have definitely improved dramatically since then.:bowrofl:

[Sileighty_85]

Because you totally have tried and found that out, right? Funny how I drove that car 20% of the time without the turbine connected. Sounds to me like you simply have no clue how a turbocharger works.

Worst troll ever.

[Croustibat]

so it has all oem equipment and you daily it? and you really drive it at 80mph (3500rpms) continuously on full OEM equipment for long distances, right?


OP says 65, not 80 (but anyway it should run with no problem at all at 80)


Because you totally have tried and found that out, right? Funny how I drove that car 20% of the time without the turbine connected. Sounds to me like you simply have no clue how a turbocharger works.


Yes, please entertain us. How the hell do you "disconnect the turbine ?" You mean wastegate actuator ?

Here is a hint : when cruising, you are using 20-30HP. wastegate connected or not, it still is 20-30HP ... explain how it should have any influence.

I dont care how many swap you did, you are writing fucking lies and bullshit here.

To me there can be only 2 reasons;

1/ You and the OP decided to make an enormous trolling thread. Congrats, you won. Please, if thats it, tell the truth. I'd prefer this.

2/ i'd hate it, but it really looks like you scammed someone, and keep on lying because your brain is completely damaged. The first part deserves a ban from here, clearly. The second requires you to get in a hospital.

I really dont mind your crazy talk, it is somewhat entertaining, and i guess many people think the same. But scamming people, and selling them shitty cars that "arent supposed to go faster than 65mph ?" Nope, cant accept that.


So which will it be ?

[jr_ss]

It'll be none of the above. He'll come in here defending his absurd claims about a T25 can't cruise at 80mph and 3500rpms. Then he'll spit more brainwashed ideas out and call us all retards because we aren't on the same "wave" length as him.

All kidding aside, Kingalton, you do spit some random crazy bullshit out at times and at others you make complete sense. It's like there are two minds up there fighting over the keyboard. A lot of it is ricidulousness, but some of it is justifiable. These latest are not what so ever.

[240boi115]

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/1633/sr20.jpg my blacktop i ran in my s13. pushed it many times and no heating issues.. the only thing i did after was install a apexi intake filter for better flow so there you go! proof! and go ask the shop that helped me with the swap as well they probably know more than you do!

[240boi115]

my only apology is for the crappy cell pic. my damn Nikon is broken:faint:

[Kingtal0n]

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/kingtal0ns_240/jordannew023.jpg
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one of my favorites. GM sunset metallic. fully built with forged components.

[Kingtal0n]

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/1633/sr20.jpg my blacktop i ran in my s13. pushed it many times and no heating issues.. the only thing i did after was install a apexi intake filter for better flow so there you go! proof! and go ask the shop that helped me with the swap as well they probably know more than you do!

Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...

nobody in this thread has even seen the car in question, nor knows anything about it and yet they are so quick to judge. everything about the engine in every respect is perfect oem stuff. Like I said already: 4 years of every day driving and 20 or 30 clean proper swaps later. I offered to get a video of the gauge on the highway and under what conditions it moves- owner refused. what more can I do? You tell me?

[Kingtal0n]

Oh, and heres the final paycheck. I would still be driving my car if I hadn't found this.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/pearl_kouki/P1140450_zps671be2f4.jpg


the ONLY thing, the ONLY reason that I would have sold my car for, is that. Excuse me, gave it away. That should tell you something right there.

[ultimateirving]

Title pretty much sums it all

Engine is all stock, original.

I drive 15 miles from work to home daily twice and the cars fine, heat gauge is a little below half.

Yesterday I had to drive to Miami, at about 20-30 miles in heat slowly started rising till almost the top.

Obviously I pulled over before it hit the top, cooled the radiator down.

I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH

1) From Previous owner, he said : Redtops arent made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.


Please tell me I really need to be able to travel longer distances.




Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...



Look at the OP above, he is not beating on it. He is not going 50+ miles. He said in NEUTRAL the temp creeps up. Ask him if he is WOT while in neutral.. its clearly not a "redtop" problem. Nor is it a t25 problem. Stop crapping up his thread already.

[Kingtal0n]

Look at the OP above, he is not beating on it. He is not going 50+ miles. He said in NEUTRAL the temp creeps up. Ask him if he is WOT while in neutral.. its clearly not a "redtop" problem. Nor is it a t25 problem. Stop crapping up his thread already.

no, he is afraid to SAY that he is beating on it. Have you actually seen him driving it? No. it was MY car for 4 years. Not YOURS. I know for a FACT he is beating on it because that it the ONLY way the temp gauge moves. Stop telling fiction about your "theory". and lol at the temp rising in neutral. how does that even make any sense? read the sentance again
"I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH"

How is he going to go 20 miles in neutral? It says the heat quickly rises at 20+ miles at 70MPH... after he said he put it into neutral. I think you need to re-read and try to understand that not everybody types what they mean online.

[240boi115]

Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...

nobody in this thread has even seen the car in question, nor knows anything about it and yet they are so quick to judge. everything about the engine in every respect is perfect oem stuff. Like I said already: 4 years of every day driving and 20 or 30 clean proper swaps later. I offered to get a video of the gauge on the highway and under what conditions it moves- owner refused. what more can I do? You tell me?

im not saying your work is crap at all.. from what you posted you do some clean swaps. (thanks for the compliment by the way on my bay) but ive pushed my sr pretty hard and it didn't overheat at all so maybe the temp gauge is broken who knows...do you have pics of the car sold? better yet the engine bay of the car sold? I drove my sr pretty hard at first and then settled down a bit and the only thing that happened was the oem clutch taking a crap (typical for a 20 year old motor thats been sitting) and the turbo seizing up on me which i rebuilt and then never had a problem after...so im not thinking its a redtop thing... i mean the t25 has its limits, its not exactly the biggest or best turbo around but they aren't shit either which is what it seems like your pointing to. i daily drove my sr for about 10 months with freeway driving on long distances and yes id hit 85 in 5th for extended periods of time and never ran into issues.

[Kingtal0n]

oops forgot to add another swap
one of my father's 240's. Still driving great since 2008. lets see, thats, 5 years later that car is still going strong fully built with forged parts and paint. Tuned by me on the street. If I didnt know what I was doing, it would not still be together would it now.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/P1120176.jpg
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http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/100_4260.jpg
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http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/100_4256.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/100_4255.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/P1020478.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/P1020454.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/P1020441.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/responsetune/P1020420.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/terrys_car/DSCN0697.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/terrys_car/DSCN0699.jpg

The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?

http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/397258-1995-240sx-sr20det-power-fc.html
Here it is years ago. I changed it around a bit since then. I recirculated the bypass. I added a few goodies. He picked up the car for the price of an empty chassis- the engine was basically free. so was the differential. and the brakes. and the seats. Only reason I sold it was to get quick cash to pick up that kouki, otherwise i would have kept it for plenty more years.

[Sileighty_85]

Im still waiting on the explanation on how to "Disconnect" the turbo and keep it drivable efficiently


Clearly this is just an Issue with your cars which means you fail and suck at being a mechanic.

[Mikester]

What's the matter, Kingtal0n?

Run out of idiotic shit to say?

[Nissan2nr22]

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

[fliprayzin240sx]

oops forgot to add another swap
one of my father's 240's. Still driving great since 2008. lets see, thats, 5 years later that car is still going strong fully built with forged parts and paint. Tuned by me on the street. If I didnt know what I was doing, it would not still be together would it now.

The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?

http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/397258-1995-240sx-sr20det-power-fc.html
Here it is years ago. I changed it around a bit since then. I recirculated the bypass. I added a few goodies. He picked up the car for the price of an empty chassis- the engine was basically free. so was the differential. and the brakes. and the seats. Only reason I sold it was to get quick cash to pick up that kouki, otherwise i would have kept it for plenty more years.

What the fuck are you babbling about the T25? Are you a nissan engineer? How the fuck would you know what your EGT was when you didnt even have a fucking water temp sensor to know exactly what your water temp was? 1450* F is like 750* C. Thats normal fucking cruising EGT temp for my SR and RB at 80 mph, my water temp sits at 80* at that speed and my oil temp would be around 80*.

[Croustibat]

The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?


Thats bullcrap. Again, what do you call "disconnect the turbine" ? It means nothing. Disconnect the wastegate actuator yes, but that would be utterly stupid.

BTW did i mention how much i beat the crap out of these turbos for hours, on track and on the road, without any overheat ? And guess what ? I have an EGT probe, an oil temp probe and a water temp probe. Even beating on them the highest i got the T25 is 900°, which is STILL OK AS FAR AS GARRETT IS CONCERNED. The T28 wont even go that high, i have to go back to grade 6 plugs to even get 850° out of it (thats e85 cooling effect for you)

What i do know however is that the standard temp gauge on an S13 and S14 is a "too late" temp gauge. If it goes to the top, you won a "check your headgasket" award.


I dont care how many cars you did or claim you did. Fact is you are spouting nonsense crap. As long as that crap is only inside your head, or on your car, thats not a problem.

As soon as this crap is on cars you sell, then this becomes a general problem. Understand ?

[Mikester]

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

LOL he probably had the old one completely clogged with stop-leak; or some other, equally ghetto shit.

Glad you fixed it.

[NickIsAZero]

Is this real life?

[240boi115]

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

congrats to you. glad to see the heat issue was solved and you can drive without fear again:wavey:

[jr_ss]

congrats to you. glad to see the heat issue was solved and you can drive without fear again:wavey:

Make sure you disconnect your turbine on trips longer than 50miles though... :rofl:

[Nissan2nr22]

lolololol i love this!

[Kingtal0n]

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15047.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15046.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15044.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15043.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15042.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15041.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15040.jpg

[Kingtal0n]

How was I wrong? Let me quote myself:


haters gonna hate. mark my words: kid installs big radiator without also adding an oil cooler. coolant stays cool but the oil overheats while he drives over the speed limit (which, by the way, is what happens when you go past 3000rpm in 5th). oil breaks down, bearings are toast.

I give it 6 months to live.





So far all I see is me being right. Im warning you do not listen to people on zilvia over the person that built that car. You have 6 months of highway driving before that engine is toast. Longer if you are lucky; but I bet you are not.

Well, we wont find out now because he sold it.

[Kingtal0n]

peace
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/random_silvia_240s/silvias15040.jpg

Ill come back when I feel like posting the other 20 swaps. or 30 or whatever.

[jr_ss]

God you really are an idiot...

[Sileighty_85]

God you really are an idiot...

X2

Post as many pics of cars you dont work on or dont own you have already established yourself as a stupid fucktard. Or even if you do work on them thanks for letting us know not to buy your shitty cars.


DONT BUY CARS FROM IMPORT JAPAN IN FLORIDA!!


The new owner already said the new Radiator fixed the issue so you clearly suck as a mechanic.


Any dumbfuck like yourself can swap in an engine. Keeping it reliable is where true ability comes into play

Im still waiting for the answers as to why 1,000+ ppl including myself DD SR20's on long trips past 3K RPMs and have no issues (especially after 5 years of doing so)

and still wondering how to disconnect the turbo and keep it driving efficiently

[Frank_Jaeger]

I think there was some kind of disagreement going on but I got distracted by colorful koukis. Excellent tactic.

[Croustibat]

Ill come back when I feel like posting the other 20 swaps. or 30 or whatever.

Dont feel obliged to come back, really.

[Mikester]

God you really are an idiot...

Dont feel obliged to come back, really.

^^This^^

http://www.zeroyon.com/public/style_emoticons/default/loser.gif

[blkvrtswp]

Anyone can post pictures. It seems you have no answer to why replacing the radiator fixed the issue. Also no reply to repeated question of how do you "disconnect" the turbo - I've been waiting for this answer myself.

[Kingtal0n]

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/th_jaylong_zps8f6e193b.jpg (http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/jaylong_zps8f6e193b.mp4)

Cant let this thread die. too good.

Gota love that A/F curve.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/kingtal0ns_240/airfuelcurveline_zps5ce4ec11.jpg

Hey, I not know what eye doing. plz no hurt gharbad I make you good weapon.

[joe3180]

I must be some lucky guy. I had my redtop bone stock for 8 years of dd and ran 5k and over 100 quite often(speeding tickets show it). I had a big radiator and no oil cooler the whole time yet my car was still running strong after 120k of my miles put on the motor. I just recently had to motor pulled apart and my barring's are perfect. Oh that was with a t25 to boot. Guess I just really took care of my antique engine.

This has really be quite an entertain thread. I don't think I have ever laughed so hard on this forum.

I still want to know how to disconnect the turbine though...I was hoping to find out since it make no sense to me.

Maybe its just me but why would you ever even try to run the car with the coolant line disconnected on the stock t25 anyway?

[Kingtal0n]

Who is running a car with the coolant line disconnected?

Tuned this RB26 in an S13. Twin TO4E 50 trims. The most annoying part was dialing in the camshafts on the dyno.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/feyazdyno.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/OrlandoRaces044.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/OrlandoRaces034.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/OrlandoRaces033.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/OrlandoRaces032.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/feyaz/OrlandoRaces031.jpg

Bottom end was built. We thought it could do more but the wastegate(s) gave out around 26psi.
I also fabricated (via tungsten inert gas welder) the intake pipes.

[joe3180]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimateirving View Post
Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

that wouldnt last more than a week. I know because Ive tried, back in 2004. You obviously have NOT since you would have known that already. Lack of experience is #1 in this thread.
post up pics of your redtop I want to see it.
__________________
electron mass : 9.11x10^-31 kilogram
electron charge: 1.60x10^-19 Coulomb

Maybe he was talking about this car and you were talking about a different one...I don't know but either way....

[Kingtal0n]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimateirving View Post
Sounds more like you didn't hook up the coolant lines to the turbo. And it's just oil cooled...

that wouldnt last more than a week. I know because Ive tried, back in 2004. You obviously have NOT since you would have known that already. Lack of experience is #1 in this thread.
post up pics of your redtop I want to see it.
__________________
electron mass : 9.11x10^-31 kilogram
electron charge: 1.60x10^-19 Coulomb

Maybe he was talking about this car and you were talking about a different one...I don't know but either way....

Oh my GOD yes. Back when I did my first ever sr20 swap (like a week after I learned what an SR20 was) I was installing the engine into an S13 and the coolant line in the back of the motor was crushed. So me, being new to turbochargers, figured I would just cut off the back and leave the coolant line disconnected on what I figured was an "oil cooled" turbocharger with just supplementary coolant lines.

BIG mistake. the turbo started smoking after about 100 miles. I didnt know what an SR20 was until 2004. I didnt know what a skyline was until 2005. I learn fast, but it takes mistakes to get there. Had to break a few things along the way. Notice my join date? Search my first ever posts on this forum and you will see the epitome of noob.

The car that started this thread was like SR swap #30 or #40. it has all of the goodies and knowledge of everything I ever built prior. One hell of a vehicle and the previous owner will realize just how incredible and perfect it was once if he tries to get another one. Nothing with a redtop will ever come close and he will be sorry he sold it.

[Kingtal0n]

Did some piston speed calculations on paper,
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/P1140912_zpsaccbbb2f.jpg

Then, decided to write some software to make it applicable to everyone and all engines.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/pistons_zps0a320035.jpg

Free for download.
http://rapidshare.com/files/337532810/pistons.exe

Source code so you can compile it yourself:
http://rapidshare.com/files/2056719568/piston%20SOURCE.zip

[Croustibat]

[a bunch of useless stolen pics]

Care to explain what you call "disconnecting the turbine", or do we need to ask again everytime and everywhere you post ?

And please stop trying to look smart. Piston speed does not matter, maximum piston speed does, and just an approximation is enough.

Formula for that is "stroke x RPM / 6" .

No need for derivatives and whatsnot :duh::hahano:

[Sileighty_85]

Care to explain what you call "disconnecting the turbine", or do we need to ask again everytime and everywhere you post ?

And please stop trying to look smart. Piston speed does not matter, maximum piston speed does, and just an approximation is enough.

Formula for that is "stroke x RPM / 6" .

No need for derivatives and whatsnot :duh::hahano:
he already did in another thread

This was his ridiculous answer

you take off the tiny clip that holds the Wastegate actuator to the turbine and walaa done. Now you can hold the throttle body open on a T-25 turbine engine without the EGT skyrocketing.

[Kingtal0n]

yawn* why you spoiling my fun. I was holding back the answer to keep the thread going. Now I have to think of a new fun mystery to solve.

You simply pop the actuator off the turbine and its done, a temporary solution for any kind of driving where you want the engine to behave naturally aspirated. Thats the key here folks, all turbo engines can driven as naturally aspirated if you just pop off the actuator. Not a very difficult thing to do. And it does lower the heat output of the turbine, thereby lowering EGT temps, Oil Temps, Compressor outlet temps, etc....

So, new mystery. How is it that i, MYSELF, appear in all of my "stolen" pictures? I think you are just jealous.
This was before the skyline fiasco. I might have eventually owned an R34.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/keith/P1050702.jpg

[Croustibat]

he already did in another thread

This was his ridiculous answer

Yeah, i supposed he was talking about that. I think it is funny how an attention whore who has supposedly built hundreds of cars does not know what a wastegate flapper or an actuator arm is.

Ah well. I got a cure for that. Attention whores tend to disappear when they get ignored... so be it. It was fun when he was just funny, now that he has turned into a mental crook ... not so much.

I am done with him anyway.

[Kingtal0n]

Yeah, i supposed he was talking about that. I think it is funny how an attention whore who has supposedly built hundreds of cars does not know what a wastegate flapper or an actuator arm is.

Ah well. I got a cure for that. Attention whores tend to disappear when they get ignored... so be it. It was fun when he was just funny, now that he has turned into a mental crook ... not so much.

I am done with him anyway.

Oh your finally done? Your going to miss the pastries and salads. Shame.

Funny how Ive been here 8 years and never was an "attention whore" until you and others started calling me a "crook" "bullshit artist" "liar" "LSD abuser" "mentally handicapped" among other things.
I never once called anyone on this forum a name.

I am just defending my good honest reputation. You going to blame me for defending myself? What, I am just supposed to sit back and take it? I learned to hit hard because of bullys like you.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/th_P1130736.jpg (http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/P1130736.mp4)

mess with the bull

[Mikester]

^^Hmm... Wonder if he built & tuned that thing too...

[Kingtal0n]

^^Hmm... Wonder if he built & tuned that thing too...

darn right I did. Ultra fine tuned. The body is a machine like no other.
More like a vehicle than you realize. A vehicle for your brain.
I apply a lot of what I know about cars to the human body.

And to make this post interesting, heres a cookie for good measure. er, kouki.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/pearl_kouki/P1140451_zps988fdd85.jpg

Heck, heres another cookie. this was my car only briefly before the swap, like maybe a month.
it looked so good it sold really really fast. Almost got into a fight handing over the title.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100531.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100532.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100534.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100539.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100543.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100546.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100550.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100555.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100557.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100559.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100561.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100564.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100566.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/redS14shop/P1100571.jpg

1. Always use mechanical fan/shroud
2. Battery stays in the battery tray where it belongs
3. Do not relocate the A/C dryer
4. Keep OEM crankcase evacuation (aka positive crankcase ventillation)
5. A/C always works

before paint
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/purple240/P1080567.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/purple240/P1080569.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/purple240/P1080570.jpg

I bought it on ebay from somebody up north. The car was $4800 and delivery was about $400.

[tire shredder]

I have s13 red top, greddy oil pan cs oil filter relocation with gt2560r and big fmic. @80mph on high way Im sitting at 210* thats what my autometer guage shows, now my sending unit is tapped in on coolant exit side neck. Oem guage sits in middle. However if I get to 90mph this is @ 4000 rpm it will creep up to the top. I have cx racing radiator and two fans combo with a shroud. So me to have kind of issue like you. What i will do is get colder t-stat and decent oil cooler. If that doesnt help Im going to get smaller fmic so there is more air flow through the condencer to the radiator. I have silvia front and gtr grill now becouse with a silvia grill it would run hotter.

[Kingtal0n]

Switch to a fan shroud and mechanical fan first before pointing your finger as if there is a "problem".

The major danger of running an sr20det from 89-92 on the highway is the oil temperature. The factory radiator would let you know before you started cooking the oil.
An upgraded radiator may mask this "safety net" and allow the operator to unknowingly exceed safe operating conditions.
if you want to drive it forever, keep your cruise RPM reasonable.

[Danger_Dorn]

I just read all 4 pages of this horse shit. Get a god damn mother luvin water temp gauge and an oil temp gauge wouldn't hurt. My water temp gauge is usually maxed out when my water temp is at 180. You are a fucking idiot and hope you dont wreck that damn car/motor. Then again you had it coming for being a complete fucktard. Your water temps should never exceed 200. I have never been above 200 and I beat the shit out of mine and sit in 110 degree stop and go traffic for an hour in the summer.

Summary: You need to get proper temp gauges and see whats going on. Have a nice day and go fuck yourself

[Danger_Dorn]

Now for the useful input. The only thing he is right about here is that you CAN take the actuator off of the wastegate flapper and keep it open with saftey wire to run what would basically be N/A. I've done it but there is no damn point in doing it as your turbo is still going to spin.

[Mikester]

you CAN take the actuator off of the wastegate flapper and keep it open with saftey wire to run what would basically be N/A. I've done it...

For what?
msglngth

[Danger_Dorn]

Just to see how it runs n/a lol. Just out of curiosity.

[Danger_Dorn]

BTW I ran 80 mph at like 3k on the highway today for 20 mins...it was fine. My temp didnt even move. Then again its like 60 here right now.

[Kingtal0n]

I just read all 4 pages of this horse shit. Get a god damn mother luvin water temp gauge and an oil temp gauge wouldn't hurt. My water temp gauge is usually maxed out when my water temp is at 180. You are a fucking idiot and hope you dont wreck that damn car/motor. Then again you had it coming for being a complete fucktard. Your water temps should never exceed 200. I have never been above 200 and I beat the shit out of mine and sit in 110 degree stop and go traffic for an hour in the summer.



Many factory engines run water temperatures beyond 200*F. In fact the coolant system in our 20 year old engines is designed to tolerate over 220*F, that is the whole point of using a cap with the capability to hold a pressure above atmospheric.

Many engines will also make the best power around 212*F or even hotter.

It is best from the thermodynamic point of view to keep an engine hotter. For every calorie of heat energy you lose is wasted fuel.

[cotbu]

Many factory engines run water temperatures beyond 200*F. In fact the coolant system in our 20 year old engines is designed to tolerate over 220*F, that is the whole point of using a cap with the capability to hold a pressure above atmospheric.

Many engines will also make the best power around 212*F or even hotter.

It is best from the thermodynamic point of view to keep an engine hotter. For every calorie of heat energy you lose is wasted fuel.

Kingtal0n is right, but I prefer a max temp of 194°f for a street car, it's something I can control if it creeps up and I get the best milage from it. When beating the car I keep temps around 185°f max.

110°c or 110°f? If °c then you are too hot, that's 230°f and if you meant °f, you're to cold, 43.3°f

Sent from my Highly Tune Galaxy S3.4!!!

[Kingtal0n]

For what?
msglngth

Its actually a tuning trick. If you tune any turbocharged engine at 0psi while the throttle valve is full open, you get a proper VE curve, if the engine uses a MAP sensor.

Now you can copy and paste your VE curve to all load points at any boost level. It takes the guess work out of tuning boost, makes life easy.
Not to mention it is much safer to work out the kinks of a new combination at 0psi. I always tune every engine at 0psi before moving on to boost, if possible.

[mechanicalmoron]

wow. this is my car. Everything is OEM and its perfect. His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah. I suggested the 6-speed because then you can run the 3.4x gearing and drop the cruise RPM. Likewise he can upgrade the turbo to something with a larger turbine and that will also remove the heat from the engine.

A; upgrade turbine
B; better gearing
C; drive slower (3000RPM and 10" vacuum)
D; disconnect turbine (free) highly recommended for highway drives if you are going to beat on the engine with outlandish RPM
E; cooling system upgrade (but I prefer OEM radiator)

the water pump is brand new I just changed it a month or two ago. It pressurizes just fine to oem specifications and you know damn well Its got the OEM thermostat.
some creative ducting might help; the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

Well, there's your problem: this fucktard left bubbles in the system when he replaced the water pump.

Cause, yeah, there should be no problem cruising at 3500RPM as long as you're moving sufficiently fast. It's loud and hard on the engine and generally sucks, but it's still not going to make it overheat. Unless you're like, cruising up a giant mountain, at WOT, at 3500RPM. That would overheat anything.

[mechanicalmoron]

BTW I ran 80 mph at like 3k on the highway today for 20 mins...it was fine. My temp didnt even move. Then again its like 60 here right now.

When you're cruising at highway speeds, as long as your radiator is even close to big enough, you won't have heat problems unless there's something else wrong. If you have 60+mph wind through the radiator, even if it's really hot wind, it's moving a LOT of heat off - if it was a radiator problem, the overheating would happen at low speeds, or you wouldn't be able to idle in traffic.

You had an air bubble, or something else like that. For example, once I had to replace a thermostat (stuck open), and when I finished and topped off my coolant (was being lazy about bleeding, though) it idled just fine in a parking lot until it was hot. Raced the motor a few times, it was fine. Pulled out, and a quarter mile down the road my temp needle creeps up and up and up and up.... I start to panic, and pull over just as the needle hits the top white thing. I popped the hood to check for coolant or anything but left the motor running - saw nothing, ran back to the drivers seat, and the temp was already normal..... more than a year later, same coolant, system has not been opened, temps are always perfect.

Which is why, you will probably never be able to re-create the problem. If it does happen again, follow the most intensive bleeding instructions you can find, and it will go away.

[inopsey]

Its actually a tuning trick.

maybe if you use a dynojet. on a real loading dyno (dynodynamics) this is pointless

[Kingtal0n]

maybe if you use a dynojet. on a real loading dyno (dynodynamics) this is pointless

You can do it with out a dyno. A dyno will change peak ignition timing numbers, but so will a large hill or different fuel. We are trying to dial in fuel not timing.