LSD Feedbacks

[banshee_rider909]

So i have a OS Geiken Super lock LSD in my s14. First, for drifting its really perfect, but for daily, i hate it! It's so aggressive that it pops and snaps! Now i was told this is what it does, but i really think its exagurated. What LSD's are good for daily driving and are not to aggressive. I know welded diff is an option but i really don't want to go that route. THANKS GUYS

[rwtf]

get a vlsd

[banshee_rider909]

get a vlsd

if im not mistaken, those are 1.5 lsd correct?

[Biggamehit]

not at all my bro.

In short, VLSD is a shimmed, liquid operated diffs using centrifugal force to lock the diff. Over time the shims wear down and you will go between one and two wheel engagement in the rear. you can over shim it for more locking power.

if you are a leisure drifter who wants a smooth daily... VLSD with fresh shims would be a good option

[banshee_rider909]

not at all my bro.

In short, VLSD is a shimmed, liquid operated diffs using centrifugal force to lock the diff. Over time the shims wear down and you will go between one and two wheel engagement in the rear. you can over shim it for more locking power.

if you are a leisure drifter who wants a smooth daily... VLSD with fresh shims would be a good option

thanks bro!! would you happen to have any experience with other lsd's such as kaaz and cisco etc?

[Biggamehit]

I have not. I have only used Nismo GT diffs. when I was stateside I ran welded diffs. got the job done.. but induced understeering and had zero give for transitions when drifting.


got some infor here on VLSD's on my old write up page http://biggamehit.teammnr.com

[Croustibat]

not at all my bro.

In short, VLSD is a shimmed, liquid operated diffs using centrifugal force to lock the diff. Over time the shims wear down and you will go between one and two wheel engagement in the rear. you can over shim it for more locking power.

if you are a leisure drifter who wants a smooth daily... VLSD with fresh shims would be a good option

:bs:

VLSDs has nothing to do with shims. Shims are there to get the correct play between gears, using too little play (aka "overshim" like you call it) means you will eat through your gears. While doing so it will put a lot of stress on the diff, and as a side effect of this it will lock a bit. But that is only a side effect, and you get exactly the same when "overshimming" a stock, open diff... anyway, doing this kills your diff quickly.


@OP > Basically you got 3 types of LSDs. Clutch types (surely what you have as it makes clunky noises), viscous types (optional on S and Z chassis), mechanical, or torsen types ( found in S15 spec r).

For drifting you want a clutch type LSD. You can make it less agressive by disactivating clutches and eventually reshape pressure plate ramps / change pressure plates. But less agressive also means harder to initiate the drift.

A torsen is fine for grip driving, unless you like climbing on curbs (does not work when a wheel is spinning as wheels gets a multiplier of the torque applied to each other. If one has 0 or very little torque, the other has 0 or very limited torque transfered. A wheel spinning in the air = 0 torque).

VLSDs are in between, but needs frequent oil change, which our OEM ones dont allow, meaning they usually dont lock much after 50K miles.

VLSDs use oil viscosity to lock, and that changes with temperature, meaning a VLSD meant for road use will be useless on a track, as it will not lock past 1 or 2 laps (overheat). And a race VSLD will wear fast and lock a lot when daily driven, as you wont be in the optimal viscosity range.


Now someone who is used to these chassis will drift with wichever diff he has, even an open one. LSD makes it easier, it is not mandatory unless you want to be competitive.

TL;DR :
Welcome to the wonderful world of "a drift car is not a grip car is not a daily car". Bear with it or get a daily, these are your options.

[banshee_rider909]

:bs:

VLSDs has nothing to do with shims. Shims are there to get the correct play between gears, using too little play (aka "overshim" like you call it) means you will eat through your gears. While doing so it will put a lot of stress on the diff, and as a side effect of this it will lock a bit. But that is only a side effect, and you get exactly the same when "overshimming" a stock, open diff... anyway, doing this kills your diff quickly.


@OP > Basically you got 3 types of LSDs. Clutch types (surely what you have as it makes clunky noises), viscous types (optional on S and Z chassis), mechanical, or torsen types ( found in S15 spec r).

For drifting you want a clutch type LSD. You can make it less agressive by disactivating clutches and eventually reshape pressure plate ramps / change pressure plates. But less agressive also means harder to initiate the drift.

A torsen is fine for grip driving, unless you like climbing on curbs (does not work when a wheel is spinning as wheels gets a multiplier of the torque applied to each other. If one has 0 or very little torque, the other has 0 or very limited torque transfered. A wheel spinning in the air = 0 torque).

VLSDs are in between, but needs frequent oil change, which our OEM ones dont allow, meaning they usually dont lock much after 50K miles.

VLSDs use oil viscosity to lock, and that changes with temperature, meaning a VLSD meant for road use will be useless on a track, as it will not lock past 1 or 2 laps (overheat). And a race VSLD will wear fast and lock a lot when daily driven, as you wont be in the optimal viscosity range.


Now someone who is used to these chassis will drift with wichever diff he has, even an open one. LSD makes it easier, it is not mandatory unless you want to be competitive.

TL;DR :
Welcome to the wonderful world of "a drift car is not a grip car is not a daily car". Bear with it or get a daily, these are your options.

Thanks for the info bro. Felt like I had a quick diff 101 class :). All I want is something that doesn't clink hard! I do have a daily but also use the 240 every now and then. Now I'm still a rookie drifter so I don't really need this super aggressive diff. But would like posi traction with less aggression (if possible)

[Biggamehit]

:bs:

VLSDs has nothing to do with shims. Shims are there to get the correct play between gears, using too little play (aka "overshim" like you call it) means you will eat through your gears. While doing so it will put a lot of stress on the diff, and as a side effect of this it will lock a bit. But that is only a side effect, and you get exactly the same when "overshimming" a stock, open diff... anyway, doing this kills your diff quickly.


@OP > Basically you got 3 types of LSDs. Clutch types (surely what you have as it makes clunky noises), viscous types (optional on S and Z chassis), mechanical, or torsen types ( found in S15 spec r).

For drifting you want a clutch type LSD. You can make it less agressive by disactivating clutches and eventually reshape pressure plate ramps / change pressure plates. But less agressive also means harder to initiate the drift.

A torsen is fine for grip driving, unless you like climbing on curbs (does not work when a wheel is spinning as wheels gets a multiplier of the torque applied to each other. If one has 0 or very little torque, the other has 0 or very limited torque transfered. A wheel spinning in the air = 0 torque).

VLSDs are in between, but needs frequent oil change, which our OEM ones dont allow, meaning they usually dont lock much after 50K miles.

VLSDs use oil viscosity to lock, and that changes with temperature, meaning a VLSD meant for road use will be useless on a track, as it will not lock past 1 or 2 laps (overheat). And a race VSLD will wear fast and lock a lot when daily driven, as you wont be in the optimal viscosity range.


Now someone who is used to these chassis will drift with wichever diff he has, even an open one. LSD makes it easier, it is not mandatory unless you want to be competitive.

TL;DR :
Welcome to the wonderful world of "a drift car is not a grip car is not a daily car". Bear with it or get a daily, these are your options.

cool story.

[guitaraholic]

I like the S15 helical in mine, and to tell you the truth, in "normal" day to day driving, I couldn't even tell the difference with or without it. Now put the power down, and it's a different story, the tail end wants to come out around the corners, but that's just how Helicals work. It's almost transparent in engagement, In fact, before I was able to start taking it on corners, I had to do a quick burnout to make sure both tires were spinning on launch. The pair of 11's confirmed it was working.

[Croustibat]

Thanks for the info bro. Felt like I had a quick diff 101 class :). All I want is something that doesn't clink hard! I do have a daily but also use the 240 every now and then. Now I'm still a rookie drifter so I don't really need this super aggressive diff. But would like posi traction with less aggression (if possible)

As said above, desactivate some clutches or change your pressure plates for some with gentler ramp angles and it should be better. You will need to disassemble your LSD for that.

There was a recent article on motoiq explaining the different parts of a clutch type LSD and how to tune it, so finding then reading it will be your first step.

But the only way to get rid of the clunkyness is to get another type of LSD, meaning it will be harder to drift with (helical) or inconsistent depending on temperature and oil wear (VLSD -forget oem VLSDs, they are crap and non serviceable).

Or get a welded diff. But this will understeer badly and really is not suited for road use (yes some people do it, doesnt mean it is a smart move)


I have a S15 helical, but i grip my S13 so it suits me well . I used to break traction on second gear at any rev before installing it, with my oem vlsd. Now i only break traction on second gear when reaching full boost :D

[Ninjamasta04]

I still have the OS Giken super lock LSD for two years now and I love it. I had it set up to 1.5 way and its perfect for daily. It will not clunk or make weird noise when I make a U turn.
I belive all OS Giken LSD are adjustable from 1 way to 2 way, you just need to buy the correct parts. As I said 1.5 is good for daily, but a bit tricky to get it to drift, I had been driving it in rain and snow but not faster than 40 mph and it wont slip and slide. As long as I keep it under 5k rpm, the LSD won't even kick in.

[SuperBlackS14]

http://zilvia.net/f/motorsports-skilled-driving/466411-kaaz-vs-nismo-lsd.html

Some good info in this thread, pertaining to your situation.

[Rustys14]

I have a OS Giken 2way in my hatch and a Carbonetic 2 way in my coupe (got both used). The Carbonetic is slightly better for daily use (less clunking etc.) then the OS Giken so if you can't deal with the O.S. Giken and want to keep a 2 way look into getting a Carbonetic. That said, over time yours will get less aggressive as the clutch packs start to wear. I have 3 drift seasons on the diff in my hatch and it is definitely less aggressive then when I first got it.

If you just want a good daily diff that will allow you a good clutch kick from time without any noises or maintenance get a VLSD but if you do a lot of drifting the best option in your situation is just to man up and deal with it :).

[ryandriftingfat]

FWIW another CLSD might just be what you want.

I have a Kaaz Super Q 2-way. Not a daily but I only ever hear it pop when I'm in 1st and turning tightly. Driven other diffs, even the original Kaaz diffs and mine is much quieter.

Heard that the Super Q doesn't lock as hard but I won't comment on performance differences since you didn't.

[banshee_rider909]

thanks guys loving the feedback.

has ahyone tried the cisco or tomei?
i hear they are good but then i hear they are bad

[OrangeVirus1]

If you don't like the popping and snapping in the rear.. what makes you think welding it would be a good idea.......................

[SuperBlackS14]

What are you talking about? He said it was an option but he said he'd rather not. He was asking about LSDs...

[banshee_rider909]

If you don't like the popping and snapping in the rear.. what makes you think welding it would be a good idea.......................

bro welded diff doesnt really make any noise except the chirping on turns thats all.

and just like i said before its an option but one that i woulnd't really take

[Rustys14]

^^^ Both my 2 way diffs are way more pleasant to drive with then a welded in my opinion lol. As for your earlier question, I believe that Kaaz manufactures Tomei so they are pretty much the same. I haven't had any experience with cisco though so i can't comment on that.

Another option that you might want to consider would be getting a clutch type diff from a turbo z31. I forgot what certain years and models have them but you should be able to figure it out with a bit of research. They are the same (or close to the same) as the entry level Nismo diffs and are by far the most daily drivable of the clutch type diffs. My friend got one for 80 bucks at the local pick a part and he slides pretty good with it. The only problem with these diffs is that they are usually pretty worn out by now. I also heard that Nissan still has a few of them new but they run about the same price as an aftermarket 2way.

[OrangeVirus1]

I'm just saying, Don't weld the diff you have At least buy a scrap diff and weld that.

[Purestock240]

I love acid!

[Rustys14]

I'm just saying, Don't weld the diff you have At least buy a scrap diff and weld that.

He has a 2 way now, you can't weld it lol. I'm sure he probably has his old open diff around somewhere that he could weld but I doubt he wants to go with that option. This thread isn't about welded diffs anyway.

[xoxide]

I'm just saying, Don't weld the diff you have At least buy a scrap diff and weld that.
Im just saying, you're a fucking idiot that doesnt read.


Anyways, OP I have a S14 SE VLSD in my car, doesnt clunk.. Very daily-able.. Ill trade diffs with you haha.