Such thing as a reliable SR20?

[SMatyac]

So right now my SR has a spun rod bearing because it ran low on oil. But I was planning a rebuild to build it to 400whp, and all my friends are talking me out of it because they keep saying Sr's are great motors, But they will blow up.
So i really don't want to drop 5k in a build just to have it blow and and have to drop another 5k.

Any insight? I'm not on a super tight budget, but i don't wanna waste money.
would it be better to do an rb/jz swap?
The reason I'm not just all for an rb/jz is:
1, the Sr is already in there
2, I really like turbo 4 cylinders
And 3, I already have the injectors, turbo, ecu, and manifolds I want on the Sr, so i won't have to buy anything other than the engine build.

I really want something reliable that i can build once, and be good for a long time.

Thanks for your time
-Spencer-

[Dirtcanhurt089]

Just build the week points and take care of it and you should be fine if you abuse it constantly shuts bound to brake

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

[SMatyac]

Like forged rods and forged pistons with ARP studs?
If that would make it last then I'd be perfectly fine with that. I just don't want to worry about it or anything.
I'm not so worried about a reliable car, just as long as the motor doesn't blow. I can deal with just about everything else.

[zooopreme]

I think there is. The problem with most people that I know with SR's is they don't full proof it to handle that much power and/or before they put them in, they don't rebuild/build internals.

Rebuild/Build the internals and the block and replace all parts with new parts. After that, you'll have yourself a clean and fresher engine, imo.

SR's generally can handle that much power/boost but with that money, you're better off going with a different platform. The amount of money spent on building a 400whp SR with supporting mods can get expensive. I mean if you want easy power, go V8. With the money that you're willing to spend on a SR, just go with a V8.

[Sileighty_85]

tell your friends they are fucking idoits cuz they dont know what they are talking about.

an SR's stock bottom end can handle up to 500hp

building an SR's internals will not take 5K

[feito]

my rb with bolt ons pushing around 280 has been reliable as hell for the year ive been dailying it so far. it's got it's little hicups now and then but thats expected when u drive hard in an almost daily basis...
U cant expect your car to be reliable when u constantly abuse it, period. that is of course if u bought it brand new, then im sure u can beat the shit out of it for the first 50-100k before shit starts breking down.
But if u ask me, rb is the way to go. Ive never owned an sr'ed car before thou...

[SMatyac]

I think there is. The problem with most people that I know with SR's is they don't full proof it to handle that much power and/or before they put them in, they don't rebuild/build internals.

Rebuild/Build the internals and the block and replace all parts with new parts. After that, you'll have yourself a clean and fresher engine, imo.

SR's generally can handle that much power/boost but with that money, you're better off going with a different platform. The amount of money spent on building a 400whp SR with supporting mods can get expensive. I mean if you want easy power, go V8. With the money that you're willing to spend on a SR, just go with a V8.

Well I'm not looking for the cheapest way to get 400hp, I just wanted to see if i could make an sr20 reliable at that power. I already have all supporting mods, my car made 408whp before it spun the bearing. But it had all stock internals, so I figured while I'm in there id just build it.

As for a V8, I'm not a huge fan for some reason. I have a supercharged lt1 camaro, and its just not fun, Ive ridden in an ls1 rx7 and they don't feel as good as a turbo 4 cyl. Even my non turbo aw11 MR2 with a 4age is more fun than the stupid fast camaro. I guess I just like driving cars with small motors. They feel hyper, like they are ready to go, and when boost comes on they just scream.
(sorry for that long rant. lol)


tell your friends they are fucking idoits cuz they dont know what they are talking about.

an SR's stock bottom end can handle up to 500hp

building an SR's internals will not take 5K

So would I be safe with just forged pistons once the crank is machined?

And the most money goes to having someone build it. I would feel much better having a reputable shop build a motor that they have built a hundred times before, than me do it in my garage.

[Grimace]

My SR20 (s13 redtop) has been getting 3 years of beating. Its around 400whp and is BONE STOCK internally. I've only had bullshit problems like failing heater hoses, or cracking exhaust manifolds, And the common bad IACV.

I spent 3k in parts to totally overhaul and build my engine, Its only that much because I pretty much called tomei and said send me every part for the SR you have.

You see unreliable SR's because stupid ass people have them, Or they simply don't maintain them.

[SMatyac]

my rb with bolt ons pushing around 280 has been reliable as hell for the year ive been dailying it so far. it's got it's little hicups now and then but thats expected when u drive hard in an almost daily basis...
U cant expect your car to be reliable when u constantly abuse it, period. that is of course if u bought it brand new, then im sure u can beat the shit out of it for the first 50-100k before shit starts breking down.
But if u ask me, rb is the way to go. Ive never owned an sr'ed car before thou...

Do you have a rb20 or rb25?
My friend had an rb20 in his r32 and it blew ass. He melted the pistons with 80k km at 18psi
He swapped an rb25 in it and that was a decent bit better, much faster and didn't blow up. haha

But if i can, I'd like to keep the Sr. I really like this motor.

[zooopreme]

I'm not a fan of V8's either but if my goals were beyond 300hp, I would much rather be using a platform that makes nearly that much stock or with minimal modification.

Stock SR bottom ends can handle up to 500hp? I was under the impression that 400hp was right at the border & then it would need to be built from then on out in order to keep it reliable. Learned something new today.

Well, if it does in fact handle up to 500hp on a stock bottom end, building the bottom end will only yield you the results that you are looking for: a reliable SR. But like mentioned, you may not even need it.

[SMatyac]

My SR20 (s13 redtop) has been getting 3 years of beating. Its around 400whp and is BONE STOCK internally. I've only had bullshit problems like failing heater hoses, or cracking exhaust manifolds, And the common bad IACV.

I spent 3k in parts to totally overhaul and build my engine, Its only that much because I pretty much called tomei and said send me every part for the SR you have.

You see unreliable SR's because stupid ass people have them, Or they simply don't maintain them.

That makes me feel a lot better. Because I really like the motor, but I hate having shit that blows up. So if I can have it hold together and still have 400whp then Ill definitely keep it.

And i forgot to mention that I have every Tomei part they sell for the top end. Which is another reason i wanna stick with the sr. lol

[240boi115]

500 hp on a stock bottom end??? im thinking yes but not for long... zooopreme has a point though.. if you prep the engine for what youre going to put it through then the sr will be fine.... there are so many people that just slap a larger turbo raise the boost and then complain about how the motor cant handle power...no engine can handle high hp if it isnt built right...

[SMatyac]

I'm not a fan of V8's either but if my goals were beyond 300hp, I would much rather be using a platform that makes nearly that much stock or with minimal modification.

Stock SR bottom ends can handle up to 500hp? I was under the impression that 400hp was right at the border & then it would need to be built from then on out in order to keep it reliable. Learned something new today.

Well, if it does in fact handle up to 500hp on a stock bottom end, building the bottom end will only yield you the results that you are looking for: a reliable SR. But like mentioned, you may not even need it.

Yeah that makes a lot of since.

And i guess if i don't even need to fully build the motor then hell yeah!

[Kingtal0n]

for a reliable engine at 250 horsepower use an OEM S14/S15 sr20det boost only 12psi
For a reliable engine at 200 horsepower use an OEM S13 sr20det boost only 7psi
For a reliable engine at 330~ horsepower use an OEM LSx
For a reliable engine at 480~ horsepower use an OEM 2jz-gte w/ turbo/injector upgrade

Once you pass the 550 mark your options are limited to the capacity of your wallet to find the right machine shop and buy the right parts and power of prayer.
Notice all options include OEM parts as much as possible. By using OEM parts you are rewarded with OEM service life, which is anywhere from 50k-250k miles.
Just because you use forged parts doesnt mean the engine will be more reliable. Often it becomes less reliable, and more sloppy and gives more blow-by.

[mr_eh]

I have a 500whp sr20, if you are worried about reliability maybe this is a bad hobby to dive into.

[silviaNC]

Im expecting 450-500 on my build
First off head gasket. Head/main/rods arp studs is a must. Upgrade oil pan, oil pickup and in my case the oil ports on block, internals, wideband and how good of a tune you get will determine how long is going to last. Do it right and be patient

[Sileighty_85]

So would I be safe with just forged pistons once the crank is machined?

And the most money goes to having someone build it. I would feel much better having a reputable shop build a motor that they have built a hundred times before, than me do it in my garage.


Might as well do Pistons, rods and bearings while its ripped apart.

500 hp on a stock bottom end??? im thinking yes but not for long... zooopreme has a point though.. if you prep the engine for what youre going to put it through then the sr will be fine.... there are so many people that just slap a larger turbo raise the boost and then complain about how the motor cant handle power...no engine can handle high hp if it isnt built right...

Check out Steve Shadows hes tuned quiet a few at the power level and they hold up fine. Its all in the tune.

Main reason ppl blow them up is from poor preventive maint and dumb fucks slapping on bigger turbos and trying to tune it with an SAFC and higer fuel pressure.

[Anhell_ito]

if u build and maintain a motor right it will never blow.

[Sileighty_85]

Notice all options include OEM parts as much as possible. By using OEM parts you are rewarded with OEM service life, which is anywhere from 50k-250k miles.
Just because you use forged parts doesnt mean the engine will be more reliable. Often it becomes less reliable, and more sloppy and gives more blow-by.

That makes no sense.. So what your saying is a built engine with high quality parts is worse than a OEM engine?

Majority of OEM engines now adays are built with cost efficiveness in mind. cheapest part to get the job done but still trying to maintain reliablity.

I built my SR20 in my living room about 5 years ago, DD'd, countless 400 mile 7 hour straight trips one way, Drifted and beat on it every day and weekend.

Still rocking to this day never had an issue even was still rocking the Stock oil pan until a 8 months ago

Its all about the quality of parts used and who puts it together.

[jamg]

find new friends who know what they are talking about..

tell your friends they are fucking idoits cuz they dont know what they are talking about.

an SR's stock bottom end can handle up to 500hp

building an SR's internals will not take 5K

i thought it was rated to 400whp?

i feel a lot better knowing it can handle up to 500. the flow if the head in my motor is built so i'm not worried about that, but i did get a OEM bottom end rebuld.

i feel a lot safer boosting 20+psi now lol. the tune i have is sufficient so i guess we'll just have to see.

[S13CoupeLover]

WPC everything while your at it. lol.

[Kingtal0n]

That makes no sense.. So what your saying is a built engine with high quality parts is worse than a OEM engine?

Majority of OEM engines now adays are built with cost efficiveness in mind. cheapest part to get the job done but still trying to maintain reliablity.

I built my SR20 in my living room about 5 years ago, DD'd, countless 400 mile 7 hour straight trips one way, Drifted and beat on it every day and weekend.

Still rocking to this day never had an issue even was still rocking the Stock oil pan until a 8 months ago

Its all about the quality of parts used and who puts it together.

you said it right there- who puts it together. who uses the dial bore gauge and who operates the machine that puts the finishing touch on the cylinder walls. who checks the roundness and straightness of all the parts, and who keeps it clean during assembly.

I doubt anyone in this thread owns and operates a machine shop. therefore, somebody else will be doing those things. We are back to who does what. I do not blame the forged pistons for the blow-by and reduced oil quality. I blame the guy that put the wrong finish on the cylinder walls and made the piston/wall clearance too large. I blame the guy who lets the engine sit open in a room where the billions of airborne debris particulate have a chance to get inside.

FURTHERMORE, the cost of rebuilding an SR20DET with forged pistons more than rivals the cost of an OEM 2jz-gte engine, which we all know is perfectly happy around 500bhp, and the finish of all the internals is, in your own words, "Majority of OEM engines now ... get the job done but still trying to maintain reliablity." - AND we know the piston/wall clearance is right, the finish is right, the engine is clean.

[Croustibat]

Main reason ppl blow them up is from poor preventive maint and dumb fucks slapping on bigger turbos and trying to tune it with an SAFC and higer fuel pressure.

That.

But it is also down to how serious the engine builder is, and how much money you throw at it.

These is no secret, 200HP+/L engines need tight tolerances everywhere, which means checking everything during the build. That means using plastigauge to get the correct bearing thickness and not just the stamped number, that means machining when anything is out of round or not perfectly flat. It takes quite some time and money. It also means not cheaping out on gaskets, pumps or even bolts, and cleaning everything (oil galleries easily get clogged on SR20s, destroying the head, for example)

This holds true for any engine.

Now, a built SR20DET will do 400WHP anytime, reliably. I know some that have been putting that and more for 3+ years.

The gearbox wont though, so time to get some Z33 gearbox conversion. This will cost as much as building the engine though.

[Kingtal0n]

please do not use plastigauge

[bc.]

I have a 500whp sr20, if you are worried about reliability maybe this is a bad hobby to dive into.

Boom, end thread.

[Croustibat]

please do not use plastigauge

:blah: :duh:

[Silverbullet]

rebuilding the SR is without a doubt the most cost effective way to make 400hp, reliabilty.

However, the feel of the engine response will greatly differ compared to a JZ/RB, or LS as they will be more responsive and direct.

[Sileighty_85]

please do not use plastigauge

Elaborate.

Why not use a recommended bearing clearance measurement tool by the FSM?


I plasti gauged my bearings

[2muchboost]

As noted by everyone, you can make a very reliable 400-500whp SR but it will take some cash and tight tolerances. Do not leave any weak links and do not skimp out on parts and labor. Find a machine shop with good reputation and be smart about your parts selection. When your building to that level every single detail counts so sit down and start writing down a wish list...then run the wishlist by your machinist/builder and get their input and go from there.

I sold a fully built SR which was spec-ed out for approximately 900rwhp....I was planning on running 600 so I wanted some safety buffer built in. Now for that same price that I paid between parts and machining labor (which was low in comparison to most people) I decided that for my personal goal a bigger motor was going to be the key. So I choose to go with a custom 2jz setup which is rather OEM in comparison to the built SR. Was the actual motor cheaper than the 2jz setup...yes. Overall has this build been cheaper than the SR....hell no and by miles. As with any build if you want reliability and power there is no exception to funding and details. Though I did not rebuild the internals of the motor or have any real machining work done the other details of my build far surpassed those of my SR. I can honestly tell you that the cost of my standalone is about 2/3 the cost of my entire built SR setup if not more. So keep in mind that deciding to go with a 2j or LS setup it takes some money in comparison. Now if your talking about building a 1000whp SR then its basically apples to apples.

I say sit down write down realistic goals then spec out what the parts and labor may cost between a swap and a rebuild and decide from there.

[Croustibat]

rebuilding the SR is without a doubt the most cost effective way to make 400hp, reliabilty.

However, the feel of the engine response will greatly differ compared to a JZ/RB, or LS as they will be more responsive and direct.

Compared to an LS, maybe. Compared to a JZ/RB, i dont think so. An engine can rev stupidly fast when it has light internals. JZ/RB are really strong, they have quite some potential (rb25/26, the RB20 is a joke), they make some great noises, but engine response ? No, not really. There are ways to get better, but the engine response stock is not great at all. Their internals are heavy, the transmission is heavy, and the clutch fan does not help either. When they are stock, they feel like jet engines; it feels like a giant hand pushes the car forward, gently at first then stronger.

Nothing like a modified engine feels, really. This would much more feel like the giant hand slaps your face and your back every time you touch that throttle, which is the very definition of "fun" :D

[SMatyac]

Man this has gotten some great responses.

I know I have a really good tune on it, so that isn't a problem. Right now I am not sure what the weak link is. Because nothing really failed except the oil drain line and it has been running 32psi for a few years now and no problems except the bearing, which has nothing to do with tune or power, its just because it ran low on oil.

So I guess nothing really HAS to be changed, because its been reliable at the hp level i want. lol.

[jr_ss]

Pistons are the weak link of the SR when pushing higher power levels. The rods can handle quite a bit of power. Make sure you slap a new oil pump on it as well.

[Future_gohan]

Elaborate.

Why not use a recommended bearing clearance measurement tool by the FSM?


I plasti gauged my bearings

I'm curious as to why he stated that aswell, sense I use plasti gauge on everything i build and i never had an issue.

[SMatyac]

Pistons are the weak link of the SR when pushing higher power levels. The rods can handle quite a bit of power. Make sure you slap a new oil pump on it as well.


Yeah I think i need new pistons anyways because my rings are probably getting pretty shot and I'm getting some blow by and not great comp ratio numbers.
Yeah I'm getting the whole block boil cleaned and getting all new oil stuff because I don't want metal shavings anywhere in the motor.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Coming from somebody who had a built 500hp SR20...

If you're goal is 400hp, fresh stock bottom end can handle it. Like already stated, tune. I've had friends in Japan who were rocking stock bottom end, built head, hooked up to TD06-25Gs, pushing over 460whp, beats the living crap out of the car everyday for 5 yrs, and DD'd it. Car never missed a beat since he took care of it.

Anything more than 400-450hp, not a big fan of SRs. They get too laggy and makes the car not fun to drive. I was running a GT3582R and I dont get into boost till closer to 5k. Anything below 5k, car might as well be NA. Biggest weakness of these engines is oil. You have any oiling related hiccup, kiss it goodbye. Doesnt matter if its built, tuned, itll blow.

With that said, I'm running an RB25 stateside now...I like the torque but my biggest gripe is how heavy the damn front of the car feels. It might be because I'm using Mckinney mounts. I dont remember my buddy's RB25'd S14 in Japan feeling this nose heavy, using R33 crossmember and mounts.

[jr_ss]

I think the wheelbase and overall size of the S14 help obscure that reality. It is a bigger car than the S13, even though it's not by a whole lot.

I've often been tempted to do an RB swap, but I can't get over how heavy that motor is.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I think the wheelbase and overall size of the S14 help obscure that reality. It is a bigger car than the S13, even though it's not by a whole lot.

I've often been tempted to do an RB swap, but I can't get over how heavy that motor is.

Heaaaaavy. I dont remember my buddy's car plowing like my car would. Just gotta get used to it and be quick to pull the ebrake to change angles when going sideways. I redid my suspension and is running 11k springs up front. Still doesnt feel enough.

[codyace]

Properly refreshed stock bottom end, GT2871, appropriate fueling and tuning

Real deal reliable 400whp setup that will last you thousands of miles, give you a fatty 4000 rpm powerband, and be fun fun fun.

Beyond that, anything is possible, but even a blindfolded monkey in zero gravity can sort out a reliable SR20 to that level using FSM spec. The issue is, most people don't follow FSM spec.

[OrangeVirus1]

Here is a super easy way to keep it reliable.

Change the oil regularly.
Don't rev the shit out of it.
Keep it at Stock boost on stock turbo.

reliable for life.

Rb20 isn't that heavy. only 600lbs with transmission.

[SMatyac]

Here is a super easy way to keep it reliable.

Change the oil regularly.
Don't rev the shit out of it.
Keep it at Stock boost on stock turbo.

reliable for life.

Rb20 isn't that heavy. only 600lbs with transmission.

Well if I never rev it and keep it at stock boost then whats the point of an sr? Definitely not for gas milage or DDability
I would have kept the KA in it if i wanted something slow. haha.

[TheRealSy90]

I threw my sr in my car 5 years ago when it came over from a junkyard in Japan.

Sometimes I don't change the oil when it needs it.
I rev the shit out of it, bang limiter every day.
Pushing 15psi on an s15 t28 among other mods.

It's never let me down in those 5 years of abuse and daily driving.

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

[cotbu]

I threw my sr in my car 5 years ago when it came over from a junkyard in Japan.

Sometimes I don't change the oil when it needs it.
I rev the shit out of it, bang limiter every day.
Pushing 15psi on an s15 t28 among other mods.

It's never let me down in those 5 years of abuse and daily driving.

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

Couldn't agree more, enjoying it is more important than reliability...next thing you know 8years have past, and you're still thinking about that rebuild you should do!

[codyace]

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

I agree with ya!

[fliprayzin240sx]

Speaking of 400hp...

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/fliprayzin240sx/1995%20240SX/c541e140-6e36-4dc2-83bd-60cf4b2720fa_zpsefb9e25d.jpg

We talking to the crank right? Dont mind the red line, my damn coupler blew off on the last pull...

[TheRealSy90]

Couldn't agree more, enjoying it is more important than reliability...next thing you know 8years have past, and you're still thinking about that rebuild you should do!

Haha exactly! People worry too much and don't enjoy what they have. I was scared when I first got mine beause people told me they always spin the bearings when you first start it after a swap. Haha, since then i've let it sit for 6 months twice and ripped the oil pan off of the engine once.

I agree with ya!

Thanks Cody!

[jorge1190]

My SR with a refreshed bottom end with all OEM parts (bearings, rings, head gasket) and ARP head studs has been making 330 WHP for about a year and about 5k miles. I daily it sometimes, stop and go traffic, driven it 300+ miles in a day, etc. I had the car tuned relatively safe, I beat on it constantly, 8k redline and it takes it like a champ. My car is tuned on megasquirt, just ordered cams and bigger injectors for 400 WHP hopefully.

A key component to a good running SR20 is to use Rotella 15w-40 for your oil changes.

[Croustibat]

A key component to a good running SR20 is to use Rotella 15w-40 for your oil changes.

Please dont open that can of worm.

Oil choice depends on usage and climate, anyone should use the oil that stays within nissan recommended oil pressure range, and basically that means using anything between 5w30 and 15w50 (and in some rare case 10w60 but that is pretty rare, again).

Add to the correct viscosity choice a GWO oil pump, a full synth oil OR frequent changes, and you will never have an oiling related problem.

[codyace]

Please dont open that can of worm.

Oil choice depends on usage and climate, anyone should use the oil that stays within nissan recommended oil pressure range, and basically that means using anything between 5w30 and 15w50 (and in some rare case 10w60 but that is pretty rare, again).

Add to the correct viscosity choice a GWO oil pump, a full synth oil OR frequent changes, and you will never have an oiling related problem.

I ran Mobil 15w50 for years. Swapped to reotella with no issues!

[240boi115]

been debating on going sr or keep my ka because its healthy and awesome buuut reading all this makes me want an sr20 again sooo bad!!! lol

[SMatyac]

been debating on going sr or keep my ka because its healthy and awesome buuut reading all this makes me want an sr20 again sooo bad!!! lol

Dude, options will be the death of me.
I literally have about 10 options for a car now, im debating between keeping the 240, rebuilding the motor, 1j swapping it, or selling it and getting a brand new focus st, or another e36 m3, or waiting till the srt-4 dart comes out.......... and thats not even half of them haha.
decisions decisions. lol.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I ran Mobil 15w50 for years. Swapped to reotella with no issues!

Same here...only thing about Mobil 1 is I was told by a guy who's building SRs in Japan since 92, is that he noticed that SRs that has been running Mobil 1, has this plaquey/filmy build up in the engine. Some had enough to clog up the cam drippers. He said he thinks its an additive in the oil that helps with start up/dry start wear and tear.

[KiLLeR2001]

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

^ TRUF.

Stock S13 SR20DET running 5+ years strong now.

[240sxdriftin]

^^ right there with you, this will be the 5th summer of having mine.

[dreek93sr20]

this is some good info guys....im in the air force and will be building my sr when i come back....so give me some good bolt on and upgrades...im no dummy im mechanically inclined (96 maxima boosted which i built)...literally...but hit me up on brands, specs, clearances, looking for the 350-400 hp range than ks

[Croustibat]

this is some good info guys....im in the air force and will be building my sr when i come back....so give me some good bolt on and upgrades...im no dummy im mechanically inclined (96 maxima boosted which i built)...literally...but hit me up on brands, specs, clearances, looking for the 350-400 hp range than ks

Search button. Use it.

TL;DR : slap a gt2871r on a stock SR20, with Z32 maf, injectors, FMIC, a tune. Thats it. You might want an enlarged elbow/ downpipe too.

[Kingtal0n]

Elaborate.

Why not use a recommended bearing clearance measurement tool by the FSM?


I plasti gauged my bearings

Measure the crankshaft with the right tool. Measure it all the way around.
Now bolt down the mains with bearings installed using the lubrication and torque specification you will use during actual assembly. Use a dial bore gauge to measure the roundness and size of the inside.

Now compare your crankshaft measurement with your main measurement. Thats how it's done. plasti-whatever only gives you one single measurement, the space between where you place it and the (usually) top of the main cap. the bearing could be egg shaped and you would not know. the crank could be out of round and you would not know.

I do not know much about building engines, I leave that to professionals. And professionals, from what I understand, are using a dial bore gauge. Same idea when you bore the engine- are you going to use a torque plate and get round cylinders or just wing it with whatever?

[Croustibat]

Measure the crankshaft with the right tool. Measure it all the way around.
Now bolt down the mains with bearings installed using the lubrication and torque specification you will use during actual assembly. Use a dial bore gauge to measure the roundness and size of the inside.

Now compare your crankshaft measurement with your main measurement. Thats how it's done. plasti-whatever only gives you one single measurement, the space between where you place it and the (usually) top of the main cap. the bearing could be egg shaped and you would not know. the crank could be out of round and you would not know.

I do not know much about building engines, I leave that to professionals. And professionals, from what I understand, are using a dial bore gauge. Same idea when you bore the engine- are you going to use a torque plate and get round cylinders or just wing it with whatever?

Plastigauge is used AFTER checking roundness. It is used to get the clearance with everything bolted, ie in real condition, to know the thickness of the bearings you need. It is not used to check roundness.

[TheRealSy90]

I've been using Mobil1 15W50 in mine the whole time also. I know it saved my engine when I ripped the oil pan off.

[StryfeS13]

My opinion on this subject - yes an SR can be reliable. They can be very reliable. It all depends on who builds it and if you maintain it like it should be maintained.

I built an SR20 for a friend of mine with ONLY supertech pistons, machine work of course, metal head gasket, and RAS. It was running an S15 T28 on 16psi. That damn thing was so much fun to drive, hit full boost almost before 3k and it took me anywhere! I would trust that car to take me anywhere in the U.S.

The funniest part about it is that I have ALWAYS hated SR's with a passion - until I built one.

[DJ 21o3]

I plan on buying a Mazworx engine capable of over 500+ hp and then set it up with a good turbo and tune at 400-450hp. Sure it might cost a pretty penny but I want something close to bullet proof as I plan on beating on the car.

Doesn't matter what engine it is, it will have problems sooner or later. Especially engines running high power and pushing a lot of boost.

[StryfeS13]

Anything mechanical or electrical will fail. No matter what.

You don't need a Mazworx overpriced engine to have a reliable SR though.

[DJ 21o3]

Anything mechanical or electrical will fail. No matter what.

You don't need a Mazworx overpriced engine to have a reliable SR though.

You don't need one but my car will be a bit of a Functioning show car build...I am going to try and use some high quality parts (with in reason of course...) and having power that will be used....quite often.
There arnt many good shops in my area for a reliable engine build without going to Chicago and even then, i don't know of any that specialize in the SR20. Why gather parts for a shop when i could pay a little more for a painless process with a company that knows what they are doing.

Back on topic...yes there are reliable SR20's, but any engine pushing a lot of power can wear down fast. Use quality parts and your engine could surprise you.

[Croustibat]

You want a reliable 400/500HP, and are ready to pay a lot for it.

If you are not deep set on the engine, why no go V8 ? They fit, and meet your demands way more than an sr20 tbh. a 400/500HP sr20 (or any small displacement high boost engine for that matter) will always cost more in the long run and be less reliable than a big N/A .

[jorge1190]

^^^Do you own or have you owned a 400HP SR?

Hop off the bandwagon.

[AdamR]

^^^Do you own or have you owned a 400HP SR?

Hop off the bandwagon.

LOL
Croustibat is one of the few people who post here regularly that knows what he is talking about. And me saying that isn't bandwagon jumping, it is reading what he posts.

[Croustibat]

^^^Do you own or have you owned a 400HP SR?

Hop off the bandwagon.

I live in a place where 240sx are called 200sx. In this country, the oem engine of RS13 is a CA18DET, and the oem engine of S14 is a SR20DET.

I know these engines like the back of my hands, and i am no JDM tyte yo fanboi; i know what they can do, and their associated cost (in terms of $$$ and maintenance). I also know how gearboxes tend to die quickly with a 400+ HP SR20 (of course when it is used, not hard parked).

So yeah, i am saying an NA V8 would be a better choice for a 400/500HP engine in terms of weight distribution, ease of maintenance, and long term cost. The 2 competitive SR drifters i know get their engine fully stripped and rebuild once a year, and they dont use ultra high powered engines as they need ultra fast spool. This year they will be running a gtx2863r and a gtx2867r respectively, to break traction as soon as their can.
Their V8 competitors though ... they booked the shop for spark plugs and oil change. Once a year.

The initial cost might be higher, but the running cost is nowhere equal. And the torque delivery being quite linear, they are easier to drive too.

Their downsize is their low JDM tyte yo value though. So if the OP needs a special JDM only car, then a US V8 is not a good idea. Fortunately, nissan makes the VH and VK engines :D

[Mikester]

You don't need a Mazworx overpriced engine to have a reliable SR though.

^^True dat! What Mazworx does is fit the motor with proper, proven parts and send it back to you machined & assembled correctly. Anyone can do the same thing buying up good parts & having it done locally and save a lot of time & money- Depends on the shop or person(s) doing the work. Don't get me wrong, Mazworx engines are AWESOME; but with their name & labor comes a pretty hefty price tag.

There arnt many good shops in my area for a reliable engine build without going to Chicago and even then, i don't know of any that specialize in the SR20.
Back on topic...yes there are reliable SR20's, but any engine pushing a lot of power can wear down fast. Use quality parts and your engine could surprise you.

Touge Factory, AMS... Both awesome with SR20's... in Chicago. AMS specializes in Nissans. My car is going to AMS for fine tuning sometime this year.

^^^Do you own or have you owned a 400HP SR?


Yup.

Funny how these conversations come up here in the US. In Japan, 400-500+hp SR's are daily driven all week and beaten on every weekend. They have their fair share of issues, mostly fried trannies and half shafts... not engine-related. As far as reliability of the engine goes; regular oil changes/tune-ups, good fluids & good tuning, good tuning, good tuning is key.

Other than that- as previously stated, they need to be opened up and DRIVEN HARD once in a while.

[Croustibat]

^^True dat! What Mazworx does is fit the motor with proper, proven parts and send it back to you machined & assembled correctly. Anyone can do the same thing buying up good parts & having it done locally and save a lot of time & money- Depends on the shop or person(s) doing the work. Don't get me wrong, Mazworx engines are AWESOME; but with their name & labor comes a pretty hefty price tag.


I dont know about mazworkx, but i do know that "assembling the motor correctly with the right parts" leads to a disaster when it is not done by someone who knows its job.

I am not saying it is very hard, i am saying it is a tedious and long job that does not tolerate any error, meaning you need to check, check and check again everything you do.

Clearly not anyone can do it, have the patience to do it, or is willing to get underpaid to do a perfect job (50 hours, billed 30 most of the time). I admire the guys that run the tuning shop i go to, because they love their work and prefer customer satisfaction and a job well done to a full wallet.

And this is quite confirmed by the number of engines they get to rebuild. Even some "pro engine builders" send him work. When a supposedly capable pro sends an engine that died after it had been rebuilt and cant be bothered to find why, they do. The last time it happened, the "pro builder" installed crank bearings upside down. This covered crank bearing lubrication hole on #1 bearing. End result ? 700€ crank, + labor.

Everyone can assemble an engine just like anyone can perform heart surgery. It takes tools, knowledge, patience and a lot of tedious work ...

[Mikester]

:D

Clearly not anyone can put a motor together properly. What I meant to say was that ANYBODY can do the research, buy up all the right parts and either have their engines assembled by reputable shops or do it themselves at less than Mazworx's price to do it all for them. The "correctly" part is definitely subject to the expertise of the person(s) doing the work=)

If there is ever is a need for a 'next time' for me, I will spend the money on Mazworx, Touge Factory or AMS's services.

[jr_ss]

:D

Clearly not anyone can put a motor together properly. What I meant to say was that ANYBODY can do the research, buy up all the right parts and either have their engines assembled by reputable shops or do it themselves at less than Mazworx's price to do it all for them. The "correctly" part is definitely subject to the expertise of the person(s) doing the work=)

If there is ever is a need for a 'next time' for me, I will spend the money on Mazworx, Touge Factory or AMS's services.

Don't forget that the quality/shape of their machining tools plays a part as well. Most people that have common sense and quality tools to do the assembly can handle it. I sure as hell wouldn't take my engine pieces to be put together at a shop that's using harbor freight tools and run down machining equipment. I'd be better off installing everything in my garage.

[DJ 21o3]

Touge Factory, AMS... Both awesome with SR20's... in Chicago. AMS specializes in Nissans.

Thank you, saved me time searching. I won't be on to the engine until at least next winter so haven't look into that many shops quite yet.