Sr20 still won't start, any help appreciated.

[Slide518]

I have an s13 with a redtop sr20 swap.. Around 42,500 miles on the engine. Ran and drove perfect for 2 months, one day I was driving along and the car stalled. Still had power to the interior. Pulled it over and found I wasn't getting fuel or spark.

I replaced a blown fusible link (engine control) and still won't start.. I'm thinking its a wiring issue but from what I've read, everyone not getting spark or fuel has not heard of blowing that fusible link.
If anyone has had a similar problem or any advice, PLEASE help!! I've been beating my head against the wall for weeks!
Thank you all in advance for the help!
Grant


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[Slide518]

Checked positive for power in the ecu in multiple spots.. Ripped all the wiring apart everything looks right. LED in the ecu does not illuminate with the ignition in the on position, however.
Sick of losing sleep over this, again, any help is much appreciated!


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[240boi115]

maybe its your throttlebody? my coupe did th same thing and i had to clean the sensor and the throttle body...my mech. did it though and you must use certain products to do this.... another thing could be you BOV or intake having a bad leak thus choking your engine... hmmmm bad fuel pump?... does it crank at all?

[di-devol]

Checked positive for power in the ecu in multiple spots.. Ripped all the wiring apart everything looks right. LED in the ecu does not illuminate with the ignition in the on position, however.
Sick of losing sleep over this, again, any help is much appreciated!


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If you blew the fusible link, something grounded out. What's the possibility that the battery grounded out somewhere? This could have fried the ecu. If you replaced the link and the ecu does not turn on, try another ecu.

Does your fuel pump prime at all?

[Slide518]

No spark or fuel at all, pump doesn't prime, replaced the pump and ran switch power to it, which was how I found no spark. I'm bringing my ecu to my buddies to test it on his car, nothing looks burnt inside though, and doesn't smell burnt at all. I couldn't find any bare wires.. A few loose at the ecu but I got them taped up now.


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[Slide518]

I have power at the engine fuse block and at the ecu.


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[Darren]

did you try another ecu or prove that your ecu is still good yet?

[Slide518]

Trying to see if my ecu is good right now, testing it in my friends s13. Ill keep you Guys posted. Thank you very much. Any ideas where I can find an ecu If that Is the problem?


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[Slide518]

The egi and egi pump relays don't click when I turn the ignition to the on position either.


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[Kriskouki]

It sounds to me that the ECU is okay.....If you can drive the car for 2 months, meaning that the ECU is working.....and it should be working like that forever.....

I think one of the main fuses may be blown......So, you might want to pull out all the main fuses (or all the fuses) and measure the resistance with ohm meter......In my situation, I found that my fuel pump has stopped working without reasons because of the resistance of the fuel pump fuse isn't close to Zero ohm.......

But, I guess your case might be that one of the main fuses has problem......It is because as long as the resistance of the fuses aren't close to zero ohm......It means that you are not getting a full 12V going through the circuit......So, check out the fuses......Maybe the problems is really small.....

[Slide518]

Main fuses as in ECCS relays? Or fusible links? Which ones?


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[Slide518]

Debating whether or not I should just rip my engine harness out and re wire everything?


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[Slide518]

Replacing ignition switch and egi/egi pump relays today. Hopefully this will get me somewhere.


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[Maikeru5]

I'm under the assumption the motor cranks over at least since you're troubleshooting seems to be all over the fucking place.

Now if the EGI relays aren't clicking, it means there is most likely an open in the circuit somewhere that is preventing power from getting to the relays OR preventing the circuit from having a proper ground. You said that you have power going into the fuse box, but there are like 50 wires going into the fuse box. Do you have power at the EFI relay? Have you checked all the fuses?

The problem is probably simple and you randomly tearing into the harness to attempt to rewire something that may or may not have anything wrong with it is the dumbest shit you could do right now until you at least have the problem narrowed down to a specific circuit.

[Slide518]

I have power to the main and backup of the ecu. I have power and ground to the egi and egi pump relays, and power to all the fuses in the engine harness fuse block. However the relays do not click when ignition is on.. I just replaced my ignition switch, I'm going to put my ecu back in and see what the deal is now. I also will have two new relays for egi and egi pump installed.
As far as the harness, I removed all of the insulation and couldn't find any flaws... The solder points for the extensions were still in good shape.


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[Slide518]

Found a couple fuses on their way out... Engine control and fuel pump. Didn't look burnt but just tested them. So from what I see, some wires somewhere must be inadequate. So far I've found my engine control fusible link, engine control fuse and fuel pump fuse bad.


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[Slide518]

Tried a new engine harness, new ecu, and rechecked all grounds and fuses. Still no fuel prime or spark!


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[Slide518]

52305

Ended up being my main chassis Harness above my driver side wheel. I really appreciate all the help guys, definitely hating myself for not looking at this earlier!!


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[Slide518]

52350

Car is all back together and clean, had a misfire after I got it running, ended up being an injector. Everything is all fixed, and the chassis harness is rerouted out of the way of the tire. Finally I can get some sleep!!


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