1998 KA24DE Engine cranks but wont start after 5speed/engine swap

[One_love_silvia]

So here's the run down. I rebuilt a 95 ka, put the intake mani and all the vacuum lines/smog shit from the 98 motor onto the 1 i rebuilt, essentially making it a 98.

we've checked the timing god knows how many times. at first, it started up real nice. the idle was high, but it was smooth for the most part. Then it would run, but the idle was all over the place 700-1300rpm. now if we move the dizzy way out of place, it will act like it wants to start, but it doesnt.

everything is connected. it has an auto ecu, but i have a 5 speed one coming in on monday. its spittin out fuel fine, and its got spark. it just doesn't want to run anymore. could it be the tps that went bad? need some serious help. its been 2 weeks and i want to get my car back on the road.

all the wiring is done properly. my dad and i have done a swap before from a 95 to another 95, and back then it started right up. so its not like we don't know what we're doing. the damn thing just wont start.

[project-D180]

make sure u got the dizzy in the right position

[project-D180]

n make sure ur cams r in the right spot too

[One_love_silvia]

well we got it to run after setting the dizzy 5 degress adv. it started off idling fine, then it gradually got shittier until it was jumping between a couple hundred rpms. it's misfiring as well.
and yea like i said, we already checked the cam timing and theyre spot on.

[One_love_silvia]

did a compression check. 180 across the board.

[One_love_silvia]

anyone? pl0x?

[One_love_silvia]

bumppppppppppp

[One_love_silvia]

cmon guys i need some serious help on this...

[One_love_silvia]

found out the problem. mods please lock

[srh666]

plz post up what the problem was

[CleanAndLegit]

sounds like it was the rotor inside the dizzy.

[One_love_silvia]

i believe the lower timing chain was off by a couple links. i'll post the results up after we fix it.

[mattsauto95]

I had same problem. Base timing was off yo

[INFAMOUSX24]

If it starts but it doesn't stay running by itself u might want to change auto ecu..to a 5speed ecu..when I did my swap on my 98 kouki it would start but it wouldn't keep running once I changed the ecu it was perfect

[Dagostino480]

have you checked that STUPID ASS SON OF A BITCH PIECE OF SHIT FUCKIN ground wire behind the engine? :)

[One_love_silvia]

ok well we got a new cap and rotor, we took the entire front cover off, checked and fixed the timing chain, and then started it up last night. it ran. still misfired, but it ran.

then early this afternoon, we got it running again, and i was able to drive it down the street and back. it ran fine when u slowly applied gas, but if u blip the throttle at all, or upon starting the car, it should sputter and shake and want to die

NOW for some reason we can't get the timing to work properly at ALL, and it's only a couple hours after i drove it down the street.

we really have no clue what the fuck is going on with this thing...

[One_love_silvia]

tested the tps and cps, both workin as intended

[Shayl]

intake mani leak?
check your grounds for any shorts, voltage drops.
spark plug wires good? (same resistance, condition)

[One_love_silvia]

well. i think it may be a bad tps.

all teh symptoms check true
Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor (http://www.buzzle.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-throttle-position-sensor.html)
Throttle Position Sensor - TechWiki (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Throttle_Position_Sensor)

will be getting a new one tomorrow. ill update if it fixes the problem

[Shayl]

Do you know the tps is bad for sure?

How did you test it?

I feel like your just throwing darts instead trying to logically think this through

[braycuster8]

Do you mean you ordered in this sizehttp://www.skincaretipss.com/24.jpg

[One_love_silvia]

Do you know the tps is bad for sure?

How did you test it?

I feel like your just throwing darts instead trying to logically think this through

all of the symptoms check out to be a bad tps. we've spent the past 3 weeks trying to figure this thing out. it makes no sense. u can set the timing advanced, rev it, and it revs somewhat fine. then delay the timing, and it idles fine. but as soon as you touch the gas at all, it starts to bog down and die. something is telling the ecu improper things. we've tested a whole bunch of shit.
it's idle jumps back and forth between rpms, it bogs out and stutters under acceleration, it misfires randomly, and timing is a bitch to set properly.
all of that points to a bad tps.
besides, i'm not exactly getting a lot of help here from zilvia, so....

[Driftwire]

Why not just put the bottom pulley on the top timing mark and pull valve cover and make sure both the cams on Cyl 1 are facing out (away from eachother), Than mark the outside lower cover of the dizzy where the first cylinder plugs to. Remove dizzy cap and set the rotor contact to that mark. Tighten all down and reconnect.. Try to fire and see if it runs. Obv you put something on wrong if you said you checked timing a shit ton of times and didn't notice anything was off. Easier to just re do it the right way.

[Shayl]

Key on engine off.

Locate your tips.

Back probe signal wire with dvom.

Depending on type of circuit it will either read 4.5v or 0.5v at closed.

Hold throttle plate WOT and look for the oppodite value from closed.

You can do it while running if you want.

Try that before you buy a bunch of parts you dont even need:)

[One_love_silvia]

Why not just put the bottom pulley on the top timing mark and pull valve cover and make sure both the cams on Cyl 1 are facing out (away from eachother), Than mark the outside lower cover of the dizzy where the first cylinder plugs to. Remove dizzy cap and set the rotor contact to that mark. Tighten all down and reconnect.. Try to fire and see if it runs. Obv you put something on wrong if you said you checked timing a shit ton of times and didn't notice anything was off. Easier to just re do it the right way.

we've already done that. we pulled the entire front cover up and redid the timing

Key on engine off.

Locate your tips.

Back probe signal wire with dvom.

Depending on type of circuit it will either read 4.5v or 0.5v at closed.

Hold throttle plate WOT and look for the oppodite value from closed.

You can do it while running if you want.

Try that before you buy a bunch of parts you dont even need:)
the bottom wire read about 5V all the way open, to wot. the middle wire read from 0V to 4.1V

the lower sensor on the tps thing just reads at a consistant 12.xx the entire time

[Shayl]

With engine running tips should never see 0 or 5v. If it does you have an open or a short.

Voltage drop grounds

[One_love_silvia]

engine was off, key was on

wasnt the tps though. taking it to a shop hopefully tomorrow to get this shit sorted out

[Driftwire]

disconnect the MAS sensor and fire it up. My car wont run with my MAS plugged in but with it unplugged it would idle in limp mode.

[One_love_silvia]

disconnect the MAS sensor and fire it up. My car wont run with my MAS plugged in but with it unplugged it would idle in limp mode.

MAS? u mean MAF? ill try it. though based on how its running, it probably wont even start

[One_love_silvia]

ran it with teh maf plugged in, the high idle was up and down with a lot of misfire. unplugged the maf, and after the cpu adjusted, it had a steady ldle at the proper rpm. still bogged with gas though. plugged it back in, idle increased, but was still smooth. still bogged.

[dallasb53]

ok well we got a new cap and rotor, we took the entire front cover off, checked and fixed the timing chain, and then started it up last night. it ran. still misfired, but it ran.

then early this afternoon, we got it running again, and i was able to drive it down the street and back. it ran fine when u slowly applied gas, but if u blip the throttle at all, or upon starting the car, it should sputter and shake and want to die

NOW for some reason we can't get the timing to work properly at ALL, and it's only a couple hours after i drove it down the street.

we really have no clue what the fuck is going on with this thing...

had symptoms similar to this when i redid the timing chains on my s14. the dizzy was 180 degrees out, get a timing light and check it that way.

no reason it shouldnt run fine if the timing chain was set correctly and the dizzy timing was set correctly with a light and the fsm.

[One_love_silvia]

well when we unplug the maf, it runs alot better. so i tried my friend's maf on sunday, and even though it started rough (timing was off), it revved perfectly. literally flawless revs.

then i tried buying a new maf. didnt work.. figured it was maybe a faulty reman. tried my friends again today, and its running like shit still. no where near how it ran on sunday with the same maf. the car completely loses ALL power when giving it gas. like it just shuts down.

i really dont know wwtf the deal is...

[Kingtal0n]

1. Start changing parts with a good running car (maf ecu coil etc...)
2. Ive seen a knock sensor (unplugged) give that symptom
3. bad grounds too. check the ground behind the ecu and and in the engine bay, somebody mentioned the one on the back of the engine, which is also a key on sr20 engines.

[One_love_silvia]

1. Start changing parts with a good running car (maf ecu coil etc...)
2. Ive seen a knock sensor (unplugged) give that symptom
3. bad grounds too. check the ground behind the ecu and and in the engine bay, somebody mentioned the one on the back of the engine, which is also a key on sr20 engines.

all grounds are good. all the parts being used, were on the car 2 weeks prior to the swap, and working perfectly. the only thing that isnt original is the long block. everything else is the exact same.

and its not throwing the knock sensor code anymore. i believe that's just a code that gets thrown after a 5speed swap. my last swap did the same shit, and ran fine

[One_love_silvia]

found out it was a bad dizzy