bllabong89
02-01-2013, 09:17 AM
I thought I would help some people out with a little how to. I saw that some people had issues when I was researching installations and settings so hopefully this helps for future installs.
This is being installed on my 1995 S14 powered by an RB25DET S2. Engine is factory besides some basic bolt-ons such as FMIC, Intake manifold and a few other odds and ends.
I will start with mounting the gauge. I used an ATI EZ Pod set-up for my Tru Boost and Wideband gauges. I drilled a hole on the back side of my steering column panel for the cables to cleanly pass thru.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130201_081028_zps54e7feff.jpg
I don't have pics of the wiring but can get them if needed. There are 2 red wires that go to a 12v switched cable. This means take a meter and test wires going to the ignition. When you turn the key to the "on" position, you will get 12v. When the key is in the "off" position, it will read 0v.
The black wire goes to ground and I did not use the grey or orange cable but you can if you choose. I can explain the scramble boost and warning light if needed.
From this point, you will run the vacuum line(so the gauge reads boost) and the power cable(solenoid wires) thru the firewall. I passed them thru a small slice in the engine harness grommet. The two wire(black and red) that go to the solenoid will be soldered in to the two brown wires. It doesn't matter which order, just solder them to ensure a good reliable connection.
The previous owner of the intake manifold sealed up one of the holes so I had to use a T off of the bov line for the gauge.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130129_110536_zps8c36310c.jpg
Now on the solenoid, for my set-up, you will use two barb fittings and a muffler. Port 1 is for the muffler(brass sponge cone looking thing). Port 2 goes to the wastegate. Port 3 is for the Turbo pressure.
The only issue here is our factory turbo does not come with a fitting to get turbine pressure and the less hose the better. This is why I removed the cold side elbow and installed one. It is very easy and the fitting comes with the kit.
Remove the elbow from the intercooler piping and the turbo.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130128_185425_zps64e5e127.jpg
After that is removed, drill the hole to match the fitting. I used a small bit at first when I decided on a location and stepped it up until it was the right size.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130128_191223_zps0b073bb9.jpg
I then used my dremel to get rid of the metal spurs caused from the drill. Once the fitting is installed, I re-installed the elbow and was now ready to measure the hose lengths to the solenoid.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130129_111726_zps86dbb7c4.jpg
Review...
1)Mount gauge and plug plug in the wires and vacuum line
2)Hook up 2 red wires from gauge to Switch 12v Power and Black to ground(choose if you want warning light or scramble boost for orange and grey wires. If not, cover ends and tie them up)
3)Run vacuum line and 2-wire solenoid cable into the engine bay
4)Hook up vacuum line to the intake manifold to read boost levels on the gauge.
5)Remove elbow(if no turbine fitting exists) and install fitting
6)Mount Solenoid and install apropriate hoses and mufller to the threaded spots and solder the power wires to the brown wires(remember, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which brown wire)
7)Ensure everything powers up and than test and tune/dyno to dial in the decided boost levels.
My current tune:
I have a factory ECU so it is not optimal but gets me what I want. I am not using scramble boost so that is not important to set.
Display Units:PSI
Pressure Sensor:I
Alarm:14.5
Spring Pressure:2.00
Bar Graph Full Scale:18
Boost Setting A:55
Boost Setting B:40
These settings peak at 13psi on setting A and around 9-10 on B. A large inprovement over 6-7psi from the factory.
If you have any questions, just ask and I hope this helps.
-Andrew
This is being installed on my 1995 S14 powered by an RB25DET S2. Engine is factory besides some basic bolt-ons such as FMIC, Intake manifold and a few other odds and ends.
I will start with mounting the gauge. I used an ATI EZ Pod set-up for my Tru Boost and Wideband gauges. I drilled a hole on the back side of my steering column panel for the cables to cleanly pass thru.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130201_081028_zps54e7feff.jpg
I don't have pics of the wiring but can get them if needed. There are 2 red wires that go to a 12v switched cable. This means take a meter and test wires going to the ignition. When you turn the key to the "on" position, you will get 12v. When the key is in the "off" position, it will read 0v.
The black wire goes to ground and I did not use the grey or orange cable but you can if you choose. I can explain the scramble boost and warning light if needed.
From this point, you will run the vacuum line(so the gauge reads boost) and the power cable(solenoid wires) thru the firewall. I passed them thru a small slice in the engine harness grommet. The two wire(black and red) that go to the solenoid will be soldered in to the two brown wires. It doesn't matter which order, just solder them to ensure a good reliable connection.
The previous owner of the intake manifold sealed up one of the holes so I had to use a T off of the bov line for the gauge.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130129_110536_zps8c36310c.jpg
Now on the solenoid, for my set-up, you will use two barb fittings and a muffler. Port 1 is for the muffler(brass sponge cone looking thing). Port 2 goes to the wastegate. Port 3 is for the Turbo pressure.
The only issue here is our factory turbo does not come with a fitting to get turbine pressure and the less hose the better. This is why I removed the cold side elbow and installed one. It is very easy and the fitting comes with the kit.
Remove the elbow from the intercooler piping and the turbo.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130128_185425_zps64e5e127.jpg
After that is removed, drill the hole to match the fitting. I used a small bit at first when I decided on a location and stepped it up until it was the right size.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130128_191223_zps0b073bb9.jpg
I then used my dremel to get rid of the metal spurs caused from the drill. Once the fitting is installed, I re-installed the elbow and was now ready to measure the hose lengths to the solenoid.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/20130129_111726_zps86dbb7c4.jpg
Review...
1)Mount gauge and plug plug in the wires and vacuum line
2)Hook up 2 red wires from gauge to Switch 12v Power and Black to ground(choose if you want warning light or scramble boost for orange and grey wires. If not, cover ends and tie them up)
3)Run vacuum line and 2-wire solenoid cable into the engine bay
4)Hook up vacuum line to the intake manifold to read boost levels on the gauge.
5)Remove elbow(if no turbine fitting exists) and install fitting
6)Mount Solenoid and install apropriate hoses and mufller to the threaded spots and solder the power wires to the brown wires(remember, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which brown wire)
7)Ensure everything powers up and than test and tune/dyno to dial in the decided boost levels.
My current tune:
I have a factory ECU so it is not optimal but gets me what I want. I am not using scramble boost so that is not important to set.
Display Units:PSI
Pressure Sensor:I
Alarm:14.5
Spring Pressure:2.00
Bar Graph Full Scale:18
Boost Setting A:55
Boost Setting B:40
These settings peak at 13psi on setting A and around 9-10 on B. A large inprovement over 6-7psi from the factory.
If you have any questions, just ask and I hope this helps.
-Andrew