crank thrust washer in oil pan? s14 sr20det

[kouki_drifter]

i just rebuilt my sr20 700mi ago its been running fine went to change oil to make sure the break in material is flushed out and i found a crank thrust washer sticking out of the drain hole i havent opened it up yet but just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and if so what was the cause?/solution?

[Mikester]

i just rebuilt my sr20 700mi ago its been running fine went to change oil to make sure the break in material is flushed out and i found a crank thrust washer sticking out of the drain hole i havent opened it up yet but just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and if so what was the cause?/solution?

1. There is no "break-in" only running up thru different rpm ranges to seat the rings. There should be no "material" in your oil... ever. If there is ever metal shavings etc... tear apart, inspect, measure; ascertain extent of damage & find root cause... then rebuild per FSM as necessary.


2. Cause: shitty rebuild or poor quality parts... or both.

3. Solution: tear apart, inspect, measure; ascertain extent of damage & find root cause... then rebuild per FSM as necessary.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I'd be pretty pissed at whoever built that motor 700mi ago :(

[oni jake]

Are you talking the entire thrust washer or shavings of it? Once the crank is seated in place, there is no way these washers, as one piece, can get past the crank into the casing. If it did, then your crank, block, or machinist is fucked. You would probably notice this when rebuilding.

Two theories I'm thinking happened here. Assuming you found whole chunks of the washer.

1) There was an old thrust washer stuck in the oil pan when you were rebuilding it.

2) when you were seating the crank and the motor was upside down, you knocked it out of place.

Finding hints of your thrust washer in your oil is warrant enough to tear your motor apart again.

[Sileighty_85]

Or Only one thrust washer was used and when the crank shifted the other one fell out

[kouki_drifter]

I built the motor myself, and for
1 the parts were all new acl trust washers were used
2 it was not a shitty build and no old crap was left in the block or oil pan.
3 I made sure to triple check that both thrust washers were in correctly before I put on the main cap.
4 the only thing that can come to my mind is that I had the crank polished and balanced and I'm thinking maybe the machine shop took off to much material during polishing/balancing casing enough of a gap between the crank and trust washers making it possible for it to spin out maybe?
I haven't opened it up yet to find the "root cause" but I'm feeling like it was like this for atleast a week plus so I'm hoping there wasn't extensive damage done to the crank or block and mains but I will post pics of what I discover for everyone to see incase someone else runs into a magical situation like this.

[oni jake]

1) Don't take offense. We're suspecting probable causes in order to help you. All with the information you gave us.
2) Even the best of the best professional builders fuck up sometimes
3) You're not even close to this level of professionalism.
4) If there was too much taken off the crank when polishing, you should have noticed forward play in the crank before you started tightening down anything.
5) Because of 4, see 3 again.
6) Regardless of what you might suspect, you definitely need to take your motor apart (again) to find out the cause.

[waxball88]

1. There is no "break-in" only running up thru different rpm ranges to seat the rings. There should be no "material" in your oil... ever. If there is ever metal shavings etc... tear apart, inspect, measure; ascertain extent of damage & find root cause... then rebuild per FSM as necessary.


2. Cause: shitty rebuild or poor quality parts... or both.

3. Solution: tear apart, inspect, measure; ascertain extent of damage & find root cause... then rebuild per FSM as necessary.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I'd be pretty pissed at whoever built that motor 700mi ago :(
You realize as the rings wear in and seat trace amounts of metals are present in the oil(hence why youre supposed to change oil after a 500mi break in period)
But you're right there should be no visible metal/shavings in the oil

[Mikester]

You realize as the rings wear in and seat trace amounts of metals are present in the oil(hence why youre supposed to change oil after a 500mi break in period)
But you're right there should be no visible metal/shavings in the oil

As long as there are moving parts, there are always going to be trace amounts of metals in the oil. However, I am in favor of a 20-30mi oil change after the initial 2-3 oil changes during run-up/tune on the dyno; and then going an additional 1500-2000mi on SAE oil before switching to my favorite synthetic cocktail...

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

[codyace]

It fell out when you put the crank in, or put on the main cap and tightend everything down

[ShadowMan]

^This would be my guess because I had the same thing happen to me when I rebuilt my motor, except I caught it before I put the main caps on. It probably fell out from the opposite side of the motor you were working on and you just didn't catch it when you were seating the crank, shit happens man. I had set them in and one had just sort of slid out of place. I don't think it's a possibilty for it to work its way once the bottom end is fully assembled, unless something went really wrong.

[kouki_drifter]

I guess I'll find out soon motor is almost ready to pull I'm pretty sure the crank and mains are going to be eaten up a bit from the crank walking I'm sure