SR Under intake manifold hoses

[Ichiban4]

One of my large ones blew tonight so I took it all apart in order to replace it, but I want to change all of them to avoid this again in the future. I tried looking up a sentras diagram but it seems different so my questions are does anyone know of direct replacements for any of these or do I just need to go to the store and make some stuff work?

Also known sizes would help too.

I was thinking of replacing all the smaller ones with silicone hoses, like what I have on my breather tank, would that work ok? Possibly better?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b124/motegineon/ZDvcx_zps1eb193e3.jpg

Extras

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b124/motegineon/cdfhv_zpsb9ac3502.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b124/motegineon/photo-2_zps7a6d1f86.jpg

Im also going to go to a s14 water neck and eliminate the lines behind the block so if anyone has any words of wisdom thanks in advance.

[Johannes]

This would help;

Post #237.

My S13 SR20DET Prep - Page 16 - S-Chassis.com (http://www.s-chassis.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42547&page=16)

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

just take a piece of each one and go to an auto parts store, buy extra of what size you need and buy new clamps! also ditch that fram filter asap it's made of paper

[Mikester]

I redid all my under-intake hoses with 3-ply silicone. Ordered everything from www.verociousmotorsports.com (http://www.verociousmotorsports.com) .

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8228980716_5ca8c5265d_b_d.jpg

Here is what I ordered and the item #'s:

Hose #1- 3/4" (item # VMSHSE3P-075-12-BLU)



Hose #2- 1" (item # VMSHSE3P-100-12-BLU )

Hose #3, #5, #6 (AAC valve & throttle body coolant lines)- 5/16" (item # VAHSE3P-031-36-BLU )

The throttle body coolant lines are not completely necessary; I capped mine off.

Hose #4- 5/8" IIRC (you may want to put a dial caliper on it to be sure)... As you can see, mine was in good condish so I left it. I tried other straight pieces of blue hose; but couldn't get them to connect to my satisfaction w/o kinking up.

Your PCV hose is 3/8" (item # VAHSE3P-038-36-BLU )

The large air line from your cold pipe to your AAC valve is 3/4" (Same as hose #1 in your pic).

Hope this helps.

--Mike

P.S. Great opportunity for some spring cleaning. Purple power, brake parts cleaner, elbow grease and a wire wheel will do wonders ;)

[Ichiban4]

Thanks for the help I got most everything bought today other than clamps.

One thing though, one of my smaller hoses I couldn't find a heater hose to match but I did find a fuel hose, will that be ok? (I know you cant use a heater hose for fuel but vice versa?)

[jamg]

those silicone ones are so expensive :(

[Mikester]

Thanks for the help I got most everything bought today other than clamps.

One thing though, one of my smaller hoses I couldn't find a heater hose to match but I did find a fuel hose, will that be ok? (I know you cant use a heater hose for fuel but vice versa?)

Yes, you can use fuel line for coolant all day long. On my 180SX, I actually ran a length of fuel line out from behind the block/head to meet the turbine coolant line... made it MUCH more maintenance-friendly being able to disconnect the coolant line in the bay vs. fight w/it back there in no-man's land.

those silicone ones are so expensive :(

You DID realize that they sell it by the foor, right? If you measure carefully & only get the amount you need, the pricing isn't that bad... I got way more of everything than I needed just to have extra on hand.

They aren't cheap; but you can't go wrong with good quality silicone hoses... great for both longevity and aesthetics ;)

[boyou2]

you got all you need here :

sr20det silicone hoses | eBay (http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=sr20det+silicone+hoses&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=srt+silicone+hoses&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=m270)

I personaly buy from zenaracing :

Silicone Heater Hose Kit Silvia s14 S15 SR20DET 200SX | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Heater-Hose-Kit-Silvia-S14-S15-SR20DET-200SX-/300272458393?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45e9a21a99)

never been disapointed.

[Ichiban4]

Ya I did the same thing with the extended rear coolant line, definitely helps until I eliminate the whole rear part. Those eBay links are helpful, I paid more than that for reg hoses I bought at the part store :/ that's what happens when you don't have a daily and need to fix it right away though I guess..

Thanks for the help everyone.

[ashtonroche]

Silicone hose are not a good answer. They tend to soften and then leak later. If you want all new oem hoses you can probably order them from Gspec.com Talk to Greg Vogel there. He deals with all these specialty items all the time. He will get them to you quick.

I absolutely hate silicone hoses and you definitely dont want those underneith hoses to leak on ya because good luck getting to them. Also suggest using the oem clamps as they are spring clamps that constantly apply more pressure and close as the hose softens and wears.

[ashtonroche]

Oh and you might want to clean up those pipes really good while your in there. Unbolt them all and clean up all the rust or youll be asking for another leak as well. Might want to stop using soo much water or only water. The pipes look horrible.

[Mikester]

Silicone hose are not a good answer. They tend to soften and then leak later.

I absolutely hate silicone hoses and you definitely dont want those underneith hoses to leak on ya because good luck getting to them. Also suggest using the oem clamps as they are spring clamps that constantly apply more pressure and close as the hose softens and wears.

Sorry but you are not correct. Hate them all you want, but there are different types of silicone hoses that are all rated for different applications. My 3/4" & 1" hose under the intake is 3-ply polyester-reinforced... The 1" is rated at 299psi burst pressure and -65* - 350*F; the 3/4" can withstand just as much, if not more. As are many other silicone hoses & kits made for temperature & pressure extremes. I have been using Verocious hose and couplers since 2005 with absolutely no leaks- ever... As a matter of fact, the only coupler I've ever blown was a GReddy ;) Also I run a Samco silicone radiator hose kit that I've had for just as long w/zero leaks. Here is the page for the kind of hose I use: Silicone Hose Couplers: 3 Ply Silicone Hose Sold By the Foot for Turbo, Intercooler and Intake Piping (http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/3-Ply-Silicone-Hose/Silicone-Hose-3-Ply-By-the-Foot) . Click the specs tab below. Feel free to check out their couplers too.

[jamg]

i read that silicone soak up more liquid than rubber... not sure if true.

i can't justify spending $100 for some hoses.

Mike, how much did you spend?

[jamg]

Actually, do you have enough to make another set of piping for another SR swap?

If it's enough, I can buy some of your left over, and use it for my motor.

[boyou2]

Silicone hose are not a good answer. They tend to soften and then leak later. If you want all new oem hoses you can probably order them from Gspec.com Talk to Greg Vogel there. He deals with all these specialty items all the time. He will get them to you quick.

I absolutely hate silicone hoses and you definitely dont want those underneith hoses to leak on ya because good luck getting to them. Also suggest using the oem clamps as they are spring clamps that constantly apply more pressure and close as the hose softens and wears.

I've take a kit for my CA18, 18months ago, used this sort of kit on an RB26 from a skyline, many of them on various SR20DET without any issue

I drove my car for about 20 000km+, the only hose that has a problem, was the only one which is not included in the kit, and I used an OEM one, juste near the starter, I replaced it with a silicone hose that I had somewhere laying in the garage, no more problems from then.......

Silicone don't burn as OEM ones, don't became hard with time like OEM ones.....

the only thing you must be careful with, is that the connectors have to be totally dry when you use them, or they'll leak.

[Mikester]

i read that silicone soak up more liquid than rubber... not sure if true.

i can't justify spending $100 for some hoses.

Mike, how much did you spend?

I spent $154... gave me enough for pretty much everything on the intake side- heater lines, AAC air/coolant; plus brake booster & PCV.

Actually, do you have enough to make another set of piping for another SR swap?

If it's enough, I can buy some of your left over, and use it for my motor.

Sorry, I won't have enough left over; and what I will have, I plan to keep.

[jamg]

oh...

well i went through every item number you put up, and put them in the cart.

total came out to be $63 ish.

what else did you get? if they sell it by the foot, i should have plenty left over right?

[Mikester]

oh...

well i went through every item number you put up, and put them in the cart.

total came out to be $63 ish.

what else did you get? if they sell it by the foot, i should have plenty left over right?

Probably not... but it depends on how you plan to run it. I bought 1 foot of 1", 6ft of 3/4", like 3-4ft of 5/16" & like 3-6ft of 3/8" . I would have to check my orders again to tell you for sure. Just remember, measure everything out, and buy more than you think you will need just to be safe and you will be fine.

[jamg]

the motor seriously uses that many hoses? if they sell by the foot, i figured you'd have lots left over.

i feet worth of hoses used in the side of the motor... wut?

[ShadowMan]

I think most leaks on coolant hoses comes from over tightening. As long as you don't adopt the "keep tightening til it stops" method and apply some sense, your hoses should remain leak free.

[Mikester]

the motor seriously uses that many hoses? if they sell by the foot, i figured you'd have lots left over.

i feet worth of hoses used in the side of the motor... wut?

:squint:

Not sure what you're trying to say here; and even though I don't owe you any explanations, I will try to explain one more time-

I have about 6" of 1" hose left- not for sale.

I have about 3 feet of 3/8" left, give or take... and I still need to plumb from the intake to the brake booster (across the rear of the bay). Whatever little is left will not be for sale.

I bought like 6 feet of 3/4" hose, used to plumb the inner heater line in the pic I posted; I still need to plumb the heater core feed/return... plus THIS (Cold pipe to AAC):

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8204263761_9e574cb436_b_d.jpg

so YES, there is quite a bit more hose on that side of the bay than you'd think. There is NOT going to be much left over; and what little I have left will not be for sale. If you have any other questions; take it to PM.

[ashtonroche]

I would use nothing other than reinforced silicone hoses just as all my intercooler couplers are. But if you use just a worm drive clamp the silicone hose will still become soft over time and can leak. Ive seen this happen from Samco reinforced silicone hoses all the time. Best thing to use with those hoses are spring loaded t-bolt clamps. Then you will never get a leak.

I wouldnt use anything other than oem hoses under the manifold. Sorry thats just me.

Again if you want oem hoses you can get them at gspec.com, just contact Greg and he can get them. Also the Sentra's fwd SR20 is completely different under the manifold. None of the hoses are the same. Sorry.

[jamg]

is the AAC required? because mine is blocked off on my freddy intake mani.

[Mikester]

Just found out from a quick Google search. It controls the idle thru conditions like AC, lights, stereo etc turned on to keep the car from stalling. Apparently you can bypass it & adjust the throttle plate open for a good idle; but it may go awry as soon as you start turning on electrical stuff & loading down the engine. Since I am keeping my AC, and running other electronic goodies; I am glad I chose to keep it ;)

[YA DIG]

Wish i knew those parts numbers, i just went to autozone and tried to find the closest looking one. When you put the clamps on make sure you angle it so you can tighten it when the manifold is back on, wish i also though about that .....

[ashtonroche]

No, the FIC valve controls idle when the A/C is kicked on. The IACV controls it all the time by the ecu, so in cold weather or when the engine is cold it bumps the idle up to 1200, then when warm knocks it down to 800rpm, It also keeps the engine from stalling on changes from throttle application to closed throttle as necessary. Its always working to keep as solid and steady idle as the ecu can.

You can run without it and adjust the throttle plate, i run no IACV and i have a nice steady 1000 rpm idle. However for a street car, you really should be running an IACV if you can. If its there, why not use it. Simple as that. One with idles much better than one without. Without especially when the engine is cold, you have to constantly play with the throttle to keep it idling well. Cuz it will want to die if you dont.

[scump]

Hey guys first of let me say thanks heaps for all the replies so far all have been very helpful.

my problem is i have a leak in that iron heater hose there (2,4 attached to) i was wondering does anyone know where to get this part from?

also how difficult is it to take off the intake manifold?

i took it to a mechanic who said the leak was in the thermostat base housing and top housing so i replaced both of them but then when i started it up it was still leaking just as bad so i got some mirrors in there and saw it was this heater hose (i did the thermo from the front of the engine).

any tips would be greatly appreciated.

oh btw its a 1998 s14 200sx sr20.

[Frank_Jaeger]

:squint:

Not sure what you're trying to say here; and even though I don't owe you any explanations, I will try to explain one more time-

I have about 6" of 1" hose left- not for sale.

I have about 3 feet of 3/8" left, give or take... and I still need to plumb from the intake to the brake booster (across the rear of the bay). Whatever little is left will not be for sale.

I bought like 6 feet of 3/4" hose, used to plumb the inner heater line in the pic I posted; I still need to plumb the heater core feed/return... plus THIS (Cold pipe to AAC):

so YES, there is quite a bit more hose on that side of the bay than you'd think. There is NOT going to be much left over; and what little I have left will not be for sale. If you have any other questions; take it to PM.
I think you're holding out on us. You holding out on us? C'mon man, make it easy. Show us the hoses. How much?

[huffandpuff00]

just get a -6 male bung welded to your s13 waterneck... I dont like the way the s14 one comes out the side. I had mine welded on the bottom to conceal it more.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7twJrbMtlr8/UQjYvMoQ6mI/AAAAAAAABxk/M_QdBr4Mc5s/s1600/photo-767937.JPG

[jamg]

Mike can you post up a receipt of what you bought? Cuz I went through your list again, it still came to 63.

[Mikester]

No, the FIC valve controls idle when the A/C is kicked on.

What is an FIC valve? Why have I been playing with SRs for 8yrs and just now hearing about this?

Hey guys first of let me say thanks heaps for all the replies so far all have been very helpful.

my problem is i have a leak in that iron heater hose there (2,4 attached to) i was wondering does anyone know where to get this part from?

also how difficult is it to take off the intake manifold?

i took it to a mechanic who said the leak was in the thermostat base housing and top housing so i replaced both of them but then when i started it up it was still leaking just as bad so i got some mirrors in there and saw it was this heater hose (i did the thermo from the front of the engine).

any tips would be greatly appreciated.

oh btw its a 1998 s14 200sx sr20.

It's not difficult at all to remove the intake- but tedious lol. Just nuts, bolts & hoses. Take your time and you will be fine. As far as the steel heater line; you may luck out at a junk yard, or try to source it out from a Nissan dealer. Or, if it's cracked, you can have it welded. When you remove the intake, make sure to use the correct toque spec/order per the FSM; and put it back together with a new gasket(s) to ensure it won't leak when all said & done.

I think you're holding out on us. You holding out on us? C'mon man, make it easy. Show us the hoses. How much?

:tardrim:

LOL!


just get a -6 male bung welded to your s13 waterneck... I dont like the way the s14 one comes out the side. I had mine welded on the bottom to conceal it more.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7twJrbMtlr8/UQjYvMoQ6mI/AAAAAAAABxk/M_QdBr4Mc5s/s1600/photo-767937.JPG

^^That's a pretty cool idea! Never seen that done before; but that is a VERY good all around location for that port~

Mike can you post up a receipt of what you bought? Cuz I went through your list again, it still came to 63.

Dude, you are unfuckingbelievable :picardfp:

VMSHSE3P-075-12-BLU 6 6 6 0 3/4" ID Verocious Silicone Hose, 3 Ply Polyester, Blue, 1 foot ****(SEND CUSTOMER (2) 3' Pieces)**** 13.85 83.10

VMSHSE3P-100-12-BLU 1 1 1 0 1" ID Verocious Silicone Hose, 3 Ply Polyester, Blue, 1 foot 14.18 14.18

VAHSE3P-038-36-BLU 602000000010/3' 2 2 2 3/8" ID Venair Silicone Hose, 3 Ply Polyester - 3' Long - Blue 19.15 38.30

VAHSE3P-031-36-BLU 602000000008/3' 1 1 1 5/16" ID Venair Silicone Hose, 3 Ply Polyester - 3' Long - Blue 18.51 18.51

Total: $154.09

[scump]

It's not difficult at all to remove the intake- but tedious lol. Just nuts, bolts & hoses. Take your time and you will be fine. As far as the steel heater line; you may luck out at a junk yard, or try to source it out from a Nissan dealer. Or, if it's cracked, you can have it welded. When you remove the intake, make sure to use the correct toque spec/order per the FSM; and put it back together with a new gasket(s) to ensure it won't leak when all said & done.




cheers mate thanks for that.

im going to pull the intake off and have a look, from all my searching online i havn't heard of one case where the hardline has been at fault, rather several where the little heater hoses have, so ill pull it down and see whats going on.

[slider2828]

Why would you not post this under tech section or search for it.....

Here is a thread I did as well with HPS 4 ply silicone (some of the best on the market) and Summit Racing Steel braided fuel lines...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/353261-replacement-heater-hoses-under-intake.html

[ashtonroche]

FIC is the Fast Idle Control Valve....Its part of the IACV. You have two solenoids on the idle air control assembly one is a heftier round motor that usually takes the brown connector (the IACV motor), then you have the other that is taller and thinner and usually takes a purple connector (FIC) That is what bumps the idle up from about 800 to 950-1000 rpm when you turn the A/C on. Its only function is strictly for the A/C. The IACV does the rest of the work.

[jamg]

Why would you not post this under tech section or search for it.....

Here is a thread I did as well with HPS 4 ply silicone (some of the best on the market) and Summit Racing Steel braided fuel lines...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/353261-replacement-heater-hoses-under-intake.html

how much did yours cost?

[slider2828]

Its like $200 to reconstruct ALL the hoses. But trust me I blew a motor because of a pinhole leak in one of these PIPES....

For people who running those racing radiator caps at 1.2 or 1.1 bars, it increases that chance of blowing these hoses cause you are adding more pressure into the system.

Replace or risk getting stranded or blowing your motor.

[mgs10309]

I am apparently missing the piping from under the intake and am having a really hard time finding them anywhere. Does anyone have a name or part number or anything to help me find the piping that is under the intake, the hoses are not a problem for me I just got a deal and a half on an sr that was broken down and am finding missing pieces here and there this is the biggest piece and has been a pain to find.

[Mikester]

^^I returned your PM...

You may get lucky, or you may have to either source it out from a junk SR or have someone fabricate what you need...

[mgs10309]

I have seen people say that the sentra that had an sr20de has a lot the same parts would i be able to find that at an advanced or autozone?

[boxerpicker]

I am apparently missing the piping from under the intake and am having a really hard time finding them anywhere. Does anyone have a name or part number or anything to help me find the piping that is under the intake, the hoses are not a problem for me I just got a deal and a half on an sr that was broken down and am finding missing pieces here and there this is the biggest piece and has been a pain to find.

i have one that ill sell. sending you a pm

[s14sliding]

Its like $200 to reconstruct ALL the hoses. But trust me I blew a motor because of a pinhole leak in one of these PIPES....

For people who running those racing radiator caps at 1.2 or 1.1 bars, it increases that chance of blowing these hoses cause you are adding more pressure into the system.

Replace or risk getting stranded or blowing your motor.


wouldnt you realize the car is over heating and stop driving before any damage occurs to your motor?

[om3ga]

These are legit.

| Hose Kits (http://superwow.us/?page_id=325)