How good of a track car is it with an RB25DET

[GT/?]

I'm new here, I hope I'm not posting in a wrong place.

Who's tracking his car with an RB25, any heat issues with these engines? How's the reliability? I hear the tranny is a solid piece I don't have to worry about, and a healthy engine can handle around 400whp, no? I've been reading a lot the past week and have a lot of research ahead of me, just wondering if it is possible to track them with 550+whp?

I track my mustang gt '11, so 400whp second car isn't worth it. I can make up to 500whp with these 5.0 engines, so I need to own something scary lol. Owning a built rb25 motor in a 240 will be double(or more) the price of that NA build (+set of wheels, brakes, paint, tuning, suspension... basically a lot)

So how good of a track car is it? I've seen one with an SR20det at the track and it was really fast straight/corners, but he had heat issues, never saw that guy again :confused:

[Croustibat]

Zilvia "database error" ate my answer and i dont feel like writing it again, so here is the short version:

RB25 makes S13/14 quite nose heavy, and if you think an SR S13/14 has heat management issue, this is a whole other level. I cant see an SR overheat unless it is poorly mapped and/or something went wrong.

You are in V8 land, so slap an LS7 in it if you want power. Lighter, better weight distribution, no need to rebuild the engine, nothing to worry about reliability, cheap usage.

If you are not satisfied with that kind of power, you alway can add a couple turbos on that. I think it still will be more reliable than an rb25.

One of the hardest thing to do when swapping an rb is sourcing a good condition one, with the good crank, otherwise you are in for quite some work.

[Slide~or~die]

Dont Buy and RB! Plain and simple. Its a Shit motor.

Buy something nice, 1/2jz, LS.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Zilvia "database error" ate my answer and i dont feel like writing it again, so here is the short version:

RB25 makes S13/14 quite nose heavy, and if you think an SR S13/14 has heat management issue, this is a whole other level. I cant see an SR overheat unless it is poorly mapped and/or something went wrong.

You are in V8 land, so slap an LS7 in it if you want power. Lighter, better weight distribution, no need to rebuild the engine, nothing to worry about reliability, cheap usage.

If you are not satisfied with that kind of power, you alway can add a couple turbos on that. I think it still will be more reliable than an rb25.

One of the hardest thing to do when swapping an rb is sourcing a good condition one, with the good crank, otherwise you are in for quite some work.

Eh, so far I'm happy with mine. But definitely true on the nose heavy part. Nothing a stiffer spring rate/better suspension can't fix. I ended up going with new 11kg spring setup FA 500s and made the car feel more neutral. Power wise, you can push RB25s to 600hp on stock bottom end. I'd go HX30 top mounted with supporting mods/tune and should be good enough to get him there. Crank snout/oil pump issue and ringlands cracking are the downside of the engine.

[PrimeDirective]

If you make room for the clutch fan you should have no heat issues.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

Going on two years with mine and it still isn't running right. Someone shoot me.


RB26 is next up, hopefully...after I get tired of trying to figuring this one out.

[godzillarb]

Over heating can be solved by notching the radiator support so that twin 12" pullers with a shroud can be used. I also run a nismo thermostat. My car rarely sees over 180f.

[HKSalex]

depends on what series your going to compete in.. that's if you are though..

if you just want a weekend track car.. something with replaceable parts would be much better... KA-T.. SR20.. VQ.. and the bandwagon engine LSx...

using a LSX is great.. for drifting u can bang the limiter all day and not give a shit lol...

as far as using the RB20/5/6/30 it would make great for a TIME ATTACK car... if u had shit ton of money to throw around.. it being nose heavy is something that can be made up for... i actually like a lil nose heavy :) plus having more torque out of a corner is nice..

[GT/?]

Zilvia "database error" ate my answer and i dont feel like writing it again, so here is the short version:

RB25 makes S13/14 quite nose heavy, and if you think an SR S13/14 has heat management issue, this is a whole other level. I cant see an SR overheat unless it is poorly mapped and/or something went wrong.

You are in V8 land, so slap an LS7 in it if you want power. Lighter, better weight distribution, no need to rebuild the engine, nothing to worry about reliability, cheap usage.

If you are not satisfied with that kind of power, you alway can add a couple turbos on that. I think it still will be more reliable than an rb25.

One of the hardest thing to do when swapping an rb is sourcing a good condition one, with the good crank, otherwise you are in for quite some work.

Haha that's why I always copy what I write when it's long.
I've seen a lot of guys say the extra weight is from the tranny and won't be very noticeable. I see some agree with you over here.
I was planing on changing the bottom end anyway.

Eh, so far I'm happy with mine. But definitely true on the nose heavy part. Nothing a stiffer spring rate/better suspension can't fix. I ended up going with new 11kg spring setup FA 500s and made the car feel more neutral. Power wise, you can push RB25s to 600hp on stock bottom end. I'd go HX30 top mounted with supporting mods/tune and should be good enough to get him there. Crank snout/oil pump issue and ringlands cracking are the downside of the engine.

What kind of power are you making at the moment?
I've seen the complaints about bad oil pumps and starvation when making over 1Gs, did you have any experience with that?

If you make room for the clutch fan you should have no heat issues.

From my reading in the RB FAQ, I'm not %100 sure, but there is room with the syko mounts on the S14.

Going on two years with mine and it still isn't running right. Someone shoot me.


RB26 is next up, hopefully...after I get tired of trying to figuring this one out.

What kind of problems are you facing?

Over heating can be solved by notching the radiator support so that twin 12" pullers with a shroud can be used. I also run a nismo thermostat. My car rarely sees over 180f.

What kind of power are putting down?

depends on what series your going to compete in.. that's if you are though..

if you just want a weekend track car.. something with replaceable parts would be much better... KA-T.. SR20.. VQ.. and the bandwagon engine LSx...

using a LSX is great.. for drifting u can bang the limiter all day and not give a shit lol...

as far as using the RB20/5/6/30 it would make great for a TIME ATTACK car... if u had shit ton of money to throw around.. it being nose heavy is something that can be made up for... i actually like a lil nose heavy :) plus having more torque out of a corner is nice..

Why time attack, not gonna hold up for long sessions?

[godzillarb]

Never been on a dyno with my current setup. Stock long block RB25, twin scroll t4 manifold, 4" dp, HX52 (67mm turbo) at 19psi, 800cc injectors, etc. Power wise, I'm guessing close to 500whp. A buddy of mine made 480whp at 17psi with a similar turbo.

[PrimeDirective]

From my reading in the RB FAQ, I'm not %100 sure, but there is room with the syko mounts on the S14.


I have Syko mounts. The clutch fan will fit without cutting the radiator support if you use a stock S14 radiator and mount the fan on the back of the fan clutch.

All of the aftermarket radiators add rows and are too thick with out cutting the radiator support. I wish Koyo made an OEM replacement copper core for the KA.

[HKSalex]

why time attack.. makes easier power.... great mid - high end torque.. while hitting almost 9k rpm... engine response on a RB is insane if done up properly..

ov course u can go with a 2J and 1J.. but lets say you did decide to compete in time attack.. for instance GTA.. this allows you to compete because you use a engine from another car.. but from the same manufacture :)

i wouldn't DD / track a RB engine.. at all due to insanely expensive.. replacement parts..

[fliprayzin240sx]

Here's a good read on the oiling issue with RB engines.

The SkyLife - Modified and Exotic Car News Community, Tutorials, Build Stories and How To guides.: Nissan Skyline GTR Oil Pump problems (http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/real-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html)

I have the snout issue, but I just said fuck it and slapped a new N1 oil pump.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/fliprayzin240sx/1995%20240SX/RB25DET%20Build/IMG_9597.jpg

As far as temp, I'm not running AC, using a Nismo thermostat, some no name Ebay Aluminum rad, Dual FAL fans that I'm using as pushers and a PBM Swirl pot. No issue at the track or daily with the fans on. Car would get hot on the track but not till after running it hard for a while. I'd kick the fans on, chill for a few minutes to get it back down and would sit about 76*.

Still running a stock turbo setup so putting down maybe 210 on stock boost. I got a old IHI turbo kit to put in that should get me close to 400 and be happy with it.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/fliprayzin240sx/1995%20240SX/photo-13-5.jpg

[JDMtyte527]

Honestly an ls swap is more than perfect for the track. You can make easy reliable power, low end torque and it maybe a bandwagon swap but people are doing it for a reason. Weight isn't to far off a ka.

[drifterjoey]

why time attack.. makes easier power.... great mid - high end torque.. while hitting almost 9k rpm... engine response on a RB is insane if done up properly..

ov course u can go with a 2J and 1J.. but lets say you did decide to compete in time attack.. for instance GTA.. this allows you to compete because you use a engine from another car.. but from the same manufacture :)

i wouldn't DD / track a RB engine.. at all due to insanely expensive.. replacement parts..

I DD my RB for 2 years while competing in Drifting. Only down sides are getting in with the door bars and the thought of some one hitting me and totaling it on the street. If you build it right starting at getting a good motor its extreamly reliable.

Dont Buy and RB! Plain and simple. Its a Shit motor.

Buy something nice, 1/2jz, LS.

Say what you want but my RB made every event for the last 2 years with out repairs between events. Once again if you do it right you will have no problems. Entering season 3 this year on the same RB motor, how many people can say that?? :Owned:

[GT/?]

I DD my RB for 2 years while competing in Drifting. Only down sides are getting in with the door bars and the thought of some one hitting me and totaling it on the street. If you build it right starting at getting a good motor its extreamly reliable.



Say what you want but my RB made every event for the last 2 years with out repairs between events. Once again if you do it right you will have no problems. Entering season 3 this year on the same RB motor, how many people can say that?? :Owned:


can you give me more details on the car? (mods, mileage on the engine, power, etc) Can you tell me where did you get it from, it seems that every time I found someone that sells them I find horror stories somewhere.

[drifterjoey]

can you give me more details on the car? (mods, mileage on the engine, power, etc) Can you tell me where did you get it from, it seems that every time I found someone that sells them I find horror stories somewhere.

I got the swap from JDM VTEC in canada. It came with a test drive video and 33,000k on the car. It is a series 2 RB20DET. It has 660cc injectors, Godspeed kkr430 turbo, huge same side intercooler, Nistune Ecu. It is pushing 16psi and dyno numbers of 400hp and 396 toque on race gas. Top 16 xdc Texas. Next upgrade arrived for christmas, new Godspeed intake manifold and intercooler. This is such a fun ass car and really reliable.

[ShadowDrifter]

okay first off people need to get off the LS bandwagon. First off its the same price swap for swap for an ls or rb26dett. Go price out everything. okay with that being said it depends on what you wanna do witht he car. Then go from there im doing a 26 swap with a 50/50 weight basis so if you want some pointers let me know

[GT/?]

I got the swap from JDM VTEC in canada. It came with a test drive video and 33,000k on the car. It is a series 2 RB20DET. It has 660cc injectors, Godspeed kkr430 turbo, huge same side intercooler, Nistune Ecu. It is pushing 16psi and dyno numbers of 400hp and 396 toque on race gas. Top 16 xdc Texas. Next upgrade arrived for christmas, new Godspeed intake manifold and intercooler. This is such a fun ass car and really reliable.

That sounds like a fun car. Gonna read more on the 20s, but SR20 make the same power I guess why not go with that since it's an easier and has more aftermarket parts?


okay first off people need to get off the LS bandwagon. First off its the same price swap for swap for an ls or rb26dett. Go price out everything. okay with that being said it depends on what you wanna do witht he car. Then go from there im doing a 26 swap with a 50/50 weight basis so if you want some pointers let me know

I found the 26 has a lot more aftermarket parts and less issues, more importantly the starvation problem. How much did and are you going to spend? I followed a 26 build over here but didn't finish it as I wasn't interested in this, but to the 3rd page lots of modifications and fabricating was done on that s13, do you have a build thread I can check out?



Do any of you guys have video?

[drifterjoey]

That sounds like a fun car. Gonna read more on the 20s, but SR20 make the same power I guess why not go with that since it's an easier and has more aftermarket parts?

Do any of you guys have video?

SR20 have rod knock issues like the KA24 when you start banging on them hard with over 300hp. That is why i went with the RB20, swap shipped to my door for 1500, 6 wires to hook it up to s13, 150 for the r33 cross-member with rack relocation Mod, s13 auto trans mount. That gives you the stock swap drop in. Here is a practice run video against Josh Guild FD Pro with LS S14. The car was only 300hp in this video, when i got to 2nd he was left behind. :squintd:

joeyanjosh - YouTube (http://youtu.be/KxP0y4Oor9s)

[StryfeS13]

SR20 have rod knock issues like the KA24 when you start banging on them hard with over 300hp. That is why i went with the RB20, swap shipped to my door for 1500, 6 wires to hook it up to s13, 150 for the r33 cross-member with rack relocation Mod, s13 auto trans mount. That gives you the stock swap drop in. Here is a practice run video against Josh Guild FD Pro with LS S14. The car was only 300hp in this video, when i got to 2nd he was left behind. :squintd:

joeyanjosh - YouTube (http://youtu.be/KxP0y4Oor9s)

Is that video with your KKR430 turbo? And also are you running stock bottom end, stock top end, stock everything?

Any acceleration vids?

[drifterjoey]

Is that video with your KKR430 turbo? And also are you running stock bottom end, stock top end, stock everything?

Any acceleration vids?

That is with my old KKR560 turbo, super lag is why i went down to the KKR430. Stock everything else but 440cc injectors, running 12psi. It was tuned on an Apexi SAFC. Much faster now but no new videos yet. Should have some after the Jan 27th Practice Event in vegas.

[drifterjoey]

Uploaded a video from 2011, my Qualifying run with a bone stock RB20DET. Built car in 8 days and got 3rd even with blown stock front coils.

Round 4 Vegas Drift 2011 Joey's qualifying run - YouTube (http://youtu.be/MSuwb5z1M9M)

[StryfeS13]

So are you on stock internals with your KKR?

[drifterjoey]

So are you on stock internals with your KKR?

Yes its stock internals.

[JDMtyte527]

okay first off people need to get off the LS bandwagon. First off its the same price swap for swap for an ls or rb26dett. Go price out everything. okay with that being said it depends on what you wanna do witht he car. Then go from there im doing a 26 swap with a 50/50 weight basis so if you want some pointers let me know

Actually you can get a crate engine LS for the same price typically as a used RB. Sometimes the crate LS is more expensive but its also a brand new fully dressed motor with 0 miles. So a used one will be significantly cheaper. Out of the box you already make twice the power of a RB and TQ.

[JDMtyte527]

That sounds like a fun car. Gonna read more on the 20s, but SR20 make the same power I guess why not go with that since it's an easier and has more aftermarket parts?




I found the 26 has a lot more aftermarket parts and less issues, more importantly the starvation problem. How much did and are you going to spend? I followed a 26 build over here but didn't finish it as I wasn't interested in this, but to the 3rd page lots of modifications and fabricating was done on that s13, do you have a build thread I can check out?



Do any of you guys have video?

Incorrect. LS motors, especially since we are America, have plenty if not more aftermarket support than the RB. And as far as starvation problems, if you plan on tracking why not put a dry sump system in the car anyways? But oiling issues are prevalent in RB motors too. Remember the crank snout issues with failing oil pumps? Also its going to be a lot more expensive to make power from an RB over an LS. Plus when it comes to tuning it will be expensive as well. Using Hp tuners allows you to tune with the stock GM ecu rather than buying some expensive stand alone system.

[slideslidegnarslide]

I'm currently building an rb25 s13. I would have went v8 if I had known better. Parts take for ever to come in and are hard to find. But I really do live a turbo car so I'm still happy. But my car would be running right now if I just bought a v8. You can get parts for those at autozone. You break a belt at the track you can just go to an auto parts store and get one. You break a belt on the rb, and your done for weeks

[drifterjoey]

I'm currently building an rb25 s13. I would have went v8 if I had known better. Parts take for ever to come in and are hard to find. But I really do live a turbo car so I'm still happy. But my car would be running right now if I just bought a v8. You can get parts for those at autozone. You break a belt at the track you can just go to an auto parts store and get one. You break a belt on the rb, and your done for weeks

What belt are you talking about? I got all mine from autozone on my RB. If you break the timing belt, getting a new belt is the last thing on your mind or list of problems.

[fliprayzin240sx]

My thing is that I've driven cars with an LS in it and honestly, wasnt too impressed with it. I just prefer boosted cars more. Then again, this was during the time I had a 500hp SR so I may be biased a bit.

Who cares if you can can get a crate motor for less than what it cost to an RB engine, you'd get a long block with nothing else. No supporting parts on it like harness, TB, alternator, starter, ECU or transmission. Take you alot more money and time trying to source all that stuff out, then still have to find swap components for it.

[singlecamslam]

Just drove 200 miles round trip with my rb25, drifted all day and went home.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa37/oldskool916/IMG_0493.jpg

[drifterjoey]

^^^ A year and a half i drove mine to and from the track. Even after 6hrs of hard drifting, loaded up and cruized it home. RB is Reliable!!!

[fliprayzin240sx]

I'll give RB20dets some props, I knew guys in Japan who literally were trying to blow their engines up to give them an excuse to upgrade to 25s. Shit would not die.

[JDMtyte527]

My thing is that I've driven cars with an LS in it and honestly, wasnt too impressed with it. I just prefer boosted cars more. Then again, this was during the time I had a 500hp SR so I may be biased a bit.

Who cares if you can can get a crate motor for less than what it cost to an RB engine, you'd get a long block with nothing else. No supporting parts on it like harness, TB, alternator, starter, ECU or transmission. Take you alot more money and time trying to source all that stuff out, then still have to find swap components for it.

Yea as far as not being impressed with the ls it depends on what kind you drove. A lot of guys go with the lq because they are cheap. But the ls makes power where you need it, low end to pull you out of the corner and is smooth transition to power rather than a turbo coming to full boost. Don't get me wrong i love force inducted cars a lot. I deal with many on a day today basis at my shop. And as far as the crate motor you speak of, you are incorrect. They come fully dressed with tb, water pump, spark plugs and plug wires, headers, starter etc. and sourcing a t56 from a GM car isn't that hard or expensive. Gm ecu probably 85 dollars use hp tuners and can tune with the stock ecu. There are many companies out there that make full swap kits even for the engine harness and they are just ask expensive as RB stuff. A little research and you will see its actually cheaper to do an ls swap, more benefits, better weight distribution, easier to make power, easier to source parts, cheaper parts to maintain.

[Travis14]

Those with relaible RB25's they track, did you add baffles to the oil pan to keep from starving the motor when taking a lot of g's or is it all solved by the restrictors and drain on the back of the head? Im tracking a built RB that was built by a shop that claims to have taken care of the head oil pooling problem. The only reason I know its starving under turns is after my first event my motor was tapping loudly for ten minutes or so before calming down. I would think if the head is filling with oil it wouldnt be the lifters tapping.... To answer the original post my S14/RB25DET with 400whp is quicker than my 11' GT in every way except off the line and I believe that is just because it is harder to launch with my massive Turbo. Build the 240 to race and beat on and keep your GT to smack people down on the street until your warranty is up and you are willing to tear it up... Weird the post sounds like something I would have written 6 months ago given the fact I have an 11' GT and was looking at this 240 as my track car.haha

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[fliprayzin240sx]

Those with relaible RB25's they track, did you add baffles to the oil pan to keep from starving the motor when taking a lot of g's or is it all solved by the restrictors and drain on the back of the head? Im tracking a built RB that was built by a shop that claims to have taken care of the head oil pooling problem. The only reason I know its starving under turns is after my first event my motor was tapping loudly for ten minutes or so before calming down. I would think if the head is filling with oil it wouldnt be the lifters tapping.... To answer the original post my S14/RB25DET with 400whp is quicker than my 11' GT in every way except off the line and I believe that is just because it is harder to launch with my massive Turbo. Build the 240 to race and beat on and keep your GT to smack people down on the street until your warranty is up and you are willing to tear it up... Weird the post sounds like something I would have written 6 months ago given the fact I have an 11' GT and was looking at this 240 as my track car.haha

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth.

Read this article by MJR...
The SkyLife - Modified and Exotic Car News Community, Tutorials, Build Stories and How To guides.: RB26 Engine Assembly rebuild How to - RB26DETT Motor (http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html)
I've personally met this guy and he knows his shit. Fucker's been building RBs since they came out. The whole head drain mod isnt for oil drain. He did the mod to relieve crank case pressure and blow by for over 1k hp engines. Guys in Australia saw the mod and basically figured its to keep oil from pooling in the back of the head. Read his explanation and he'll pretty much explain why its a myth.

[Travis14]

Thanks so much for that link. Shined some light on what I'm dealing with and I really appreciate it!!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[BigKriss]

"Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth."

I am glad you think so. My RB25 s1 engine would fill the cam housings completely after three or four hard runs through to 7800 rpm. Cloud of smoke behind my car as the oil hit turbo and manifold from the breathers.

My next RB25 NEO was modified at the rear of the head to drain oil to the sump via the welsh plug . Guess what ? No more oil blowing out the breathers !

I track my RB25 NEO when ever I can. At least once a month and sometimes two or three times a month. Bog stock std. engine from a Jap engine import company here.
Single GT3582R , Freddy intake and good inter cooler.
She makes 380 odd wheel hp and is dead reliable. Revs through to 7800 rpm , had an issue with cooling but sorted that all out by ducting all the coolers and supplying cool air to them all.

[Travis14]

So the only thing you did was the drain mod? No restrictors or anything like that? Im racing Saturday and have an accurate oil pressure guage I finally got installed and I will have someone watching it while I do my run to see if I'm losing any pressure. When your head was pooling with the previous motor you lost some oil pressure right?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[smoked240]

Completed my Rb25 swap the beginning of '11 and have been DD'ing ever since with little maintenance issues. Had to replace a couple things but nothing to serious. Until just before this winter something was causing it to run odd, still couldn't figure it out, but I know it had to of been the maf or ecu. Currently running a AEM standalone with map and it runs like a dream. Tuned on e85 only pushing 10lbs, 270hp.

If your planning on doing the swap I would choose between the rb25-26. The rb20 is a good motor,finding the parts for them can be interesting. Not saying its completely easy to get parts for the 25 or 26. You end up doing a lot of waiting..I plan to drive mine this summer and once winter hits again its going under the knife and I'm going to rebuild the motor. Still debating on just a rebuild or actually build it up. But that's a year away so we'll see haha.

If I have a chance to do another s-chassis swap its going to be another rb25 or possibly 26. Would never put a v8 in. Ever

[Biggamehit]

I have had zero heating or oiling issues with my RB25 and it has seen tons of track time here in japan over four years only recently needing to change bearing due to a cracked oil return line mildly spinning one. Prior to that just did some preventive maintenance changing the timing belt and water pump. If you have not already, You should have upgraded your spring rates in the front to counter balance the weight difference. Yes the RB25 had a shorter crank oiling snout contact patch ( easily fixed with raw brokerage crank collar) but that never lead to any issue with my engine. Keep rpms decent and you will have no issues with the oil drive breaking for all the RBs with short snouts. Currently have a RB26 in my S13 and feels no different than the SR. Suspension tuning is vital along with cooling mods before upgrading power. Never needed the draining mod as the RB25 head already has a drain. The drain mod is useful to those who are really running the kind of boost. if you are over oiling that much you are probably running to much boost for that setup. Mine makes 433chp/383whp currently and doesn't over oil even when I run the normal 1 qt over for drifting.

[Brandon_Yatez]

Good read. I like the rb25 for the sound and ability for stock internals.

Which Rb25 has the best snout?

[supersayianjim]

I'm currently building an rb25 s13. I would have went v8 if I had known better. Parts take for ever to come in and are hard to find. But I really do live a turbo car so I'm still happy. But my car would be running right now if I just bought a v8. You can get parts for those at autozone. You break a belt at the track you can just go to an auto parts store and get one. You break a belt on the rb, and your done for weeks


what country Are you in?? i get my rb parts in a week or less(due to shipping). you can get a timing belt in a week.

i got a nismo n1 oil pump next-dayed for 210.00 total.

a few dealers specialize and stock rb parts. don't drink the kool-aid!!

[zerodameaon]

what country Are you in?? i get my rb parts in a week or less(due to shipping). you can get a timing belt in a week.

i got a nismo n1 oil pump next-dayed for 210.00 total.

a few dealers specialize and stock rb parts. don't drink the kool-aid!!

I agree with this, parts are everywhere for these motors. If you break a fan/ps/alt belt everyone carries them as you only need to know the size and rib numbers, nothing special. I tossed a alternator belt a few years back, rolled into a autozone and had it on the car in less then 30min including clean up. As for OEM stuff it can take a week or so and you have to know part numbers but most dealerships can get it for you if they are not lazy and will take two min to type in the number you give.

[fliprayzin240sx]

"Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth."

I am glad you think so. My RB25 s1 engine would fill the cam housings completely after three or four hard runs through to 7800 rpm. Cloud of smoke behind my car as the oil hit turbo and manifold from the breathers.

My next RB25 NEO was modified at the rear of the head to drain oil to the sump via the welsh plug . Guess what ? No more oil blowing out the breathers !

I track my RB25 NEO when ever I can. At least once a month and sometimes two or three times a month. Bog stock std. engine from a Jap engine import company here.
Single GT3582R , Freddy intake and good inter cooler.
She makes 380 odd wheel hp and is dead reliable. Revs through to 7800 rpm , had an issue with cooling but sorted that all out by ducting all the coolers and supplying cool air to them all.

Umm...did you read the fucking article?!?! Read the article, MJR will explain what the head mod was originally intended for. I've personally met the guy in Oki and if I'd listen to anybody who's been building 1000-1200hp RB26s, it'd be him.

But I got a question, how much boost are you running? I keep thinking a damn GT3582R would make more power than 380whp. My tiny ass T2 flanged Greddy turbo kitted IHI RHC6 turbo made 420whp at 1 bar. No oil drain mod, have my breather routed back to the intake with an oil catch can in between. I have yet to see a spot of oil in my catch can.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/fliprayzin240sx/1995%20240SX/92314DAE-AE52-4E74-A1C9-1CF800663095-2958-000003CD0AD5DD57_zps895198ea.jpg

[13esim]

Have you considered putting in a VG30DETT? They make good power, you'll find parts for it with out any issues (like at autozone etc.) If your in CA it will pass smog legally (assuming you want to DD the car) and, from what Ive seen, it will probably be easier to work on in a s13/s14 engine bay compared to a Z32.

Or you could buy a truck, wreck into a R35 and take the engine and have a VR38 powered 240sx :D

[supersayianjim]

^^^no vg's are heavier and a pain to work on.

[13esim]

^^^no vg's are heavier and a pain to work on.

In the bay of a S chassis though? They are a PITA in a Z32 for sure though.

Or he could always go with a 2JZ like Im planning. Reliable, still can get parts locally and dat sound

[CefiroA31]

Rb has its problems which can get expensive to fix, but done right its reliable, more reliable than sr20det (i've seen more sr blown mostly due to valvetrain issues), although generally not as reliable as a 1/2jz. Here's a link to a video of my friends rb25det A31 Cefiro doing an 11 lap race of a 2,3 mile circuit, no heat problem with it, and has been reliable ever since he swapped in the rb25det to replace his blown rb20det (only blown because of over nitroused to help spool a large turbo, pre nitroused the rb20det survives 4 years of abuse of 8000rpm drift runs, drag racing, etc) :
Super Touring - Mimo Cefiro - Final Battle 2012 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ0xYX3YIEY)
Over 20 minutes of racing is quite reliable no?
Nose heavy? seems not a problem from the video, you can fine tune the car or adjust your driving style to adapt to sr20det or rb/jz powered,