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Please, please, please. I know you are doing it in order to help, but please stop posting things that you were just told or that you did read on the internet. Although some are somewhat right, most of your answers are just misleading assumption, and it leads to this: you are in fact not helping at all.
1/The only reason the wideband is supposed to be further away from the turbo is sensor life. Not precision. I have tried and tested this with various wideband sensors/gauges and positions, and the values are strictly identical, wheter measures are from the elbow, the downpipe, or even the exhaust exit (provided you got a bit of flow, wont work at idle at the exit). As far as sensor life goes, mine has been sitting there for more than 3 years now and is still giving accurate readings. There are only 2 reasons why you'd get different readings from those 2 positions: either you got a leak between them, or one or both of the sensors are defective.
2/narrowband reading. 13:1 is rich. Period. and the narrowband will say "rich" . Even if you could get more power going 12:1 ~10:1 on some engines, as long as EGTs dont skyrocket, 13:1 is still good enough. It is in no way "lean".
But you are right on one thing: he cant depend on a narrowband.
3/ tuning. You have absolutely no idea what its chip contains (and so does the op), so again STOP assuming things. You dont know if it has been tuned for his engine, or for any other engine with another maf or injectors. but i can tell you this : if it was a tune for a different set of injectors or MAF it would just splutters and not work. The most probable is a simple stage 1 chip.
4/ Black bumper can be rich condition, or just unburnt fuel due to poor timing or boost leak, or oil. You cant assume it is running rich because the bumper is black. It could be a dead turbo burning oil too, it could be worn valve gaskets leaking head oil in the combustion chamber.
5/ talking about mapping : stage 1 chip on a
[email protected] ? It should not be a problem. Even at 15psi, as long as the fuel system is ok, and there is no boost leak.
6/ "buy a powerFC and learn to tune yourself" . Are you freaking kidding ? Do you think having the tools transforms you into a tuner ? Did you suddenly become a drift king when you first started your car ?
That is just plain STUPID.
First, it is a poor tool choice. It costs an arm and a leg and achieve nothing more than other cheaper EMS. Second, the OP would still need a wideband AFR and an EGT sensor and gauge. He would also need some dyno software, or dyno time, or a datalogging system. That means even more money, that is nowhere needed for a 1 time tune.
Oh, and he would also need to learn how to tune an engine BTW :bowrofl:
This is going to cost him a fortune, for something that he does not need.
@OP >
1/ sort your boost system. You have leaks in there, find them. Not much more to say there, usual places are couplers, but it could be some worn hose or a pierced intercooler. It could also just be your intake hose collapsing, if you removed the internal spring for example. Check your exhaust system does not leak pre-turbo either. I know the manifold is a pain. Get used to it. If you cant, pay someone who knows. It will save money in the long run (been there done that, my tuner is now correcting my mechanical mistakes and doing some upgrades, and the bill is in the 1500€ range. Your choice; if you cant do it correctly, let someone who knows)
2/ check your fuel pump is ok. If it still is the oem one, replace it. Anything will be better, even a walbro knockoff. Just make sure it is a high pressure unit.
3/check your turbo for play. Maybe your problem is just that your turbo is gone.
4/ if you changed your injectors, check they are ok, or that your gaskets dont leak. If they are any cheap injector brand, have them flow tested ( you will surely bin them and buy expensive injectors after that, been there done that too, tried running cheap venom injectors, now running id1000s)
5/ give us your complete engine setup, namely cams, injectors, MAF, FPR. A tune has nothing to do with flywheel or anything else ...
Once you are sure that your fuel system is ok, your turbo is ok, and you have no leak anywhere, and only then, bring the car to a tuner to get it mapped. Buy a set of bigger injectors if you dont already have them too, and let your tuner install and tune them.
The tuner will install his own AFR/EGT and eventually knock sensors and will do his job. It is not magic, it is not hard, but you need some knowledge to do that and read the results. It is not just a matter of changing some numbers. The hard part in mappy is timing, fueling is very simple.
Last bit of advice: dont listen to kingtalon anymore.