KA24E rough/vibrating when revving and EGR Questions

[M3Too]

Hello Community,

A couple of issues as stated on the title.

1) I have observed that revving the ka24E has rough revving/vibrations characteristics. It feels like the mechanical harmonics or something similar may be out of spec? Are there any tests that I can do to test whether the engine is idling/revving properly and that there are no issues with balance?

basically as the engine builds RPMS with or without load, one can notice an increased amount of vibration and noise inside the cabin. When under no load, the engine doesn't really rev "smoothly."

I am suspect of the previous owner of this vehicle. The previous owner had hockey pucks as "solid motor mounts" which had multiplied the vibrations greatly when accelerating. However, I have replaced them with Nismo motor mounts and the vibration characteristics of the engine has gotten better (quieter). Alas the vibrations are still there though which makes me wonder if there is something amiss with the engine or are the nismo motor mounts known to cause noticeable vibrations especially in the upper RPM ranges above 3500?

Another contributing factor to what I feel may be amiss with the motor is that i had to seriously clean the crankcase pulley and surrounding pulleys from dirt that had compacted and collected inside of them. I also thought that the dirt may have been messing with the harmonics of the engine.



2) I am getting code 32, which is the EGR. I plan to clean the EGR and replace any vacuum and other hoses that are associated with the EGR. How difficult and how long would it take to remove the EGR and reinstall it back in.

I have been reading the FSM but I can't get a good understanding of how long it could potentially take and or if I have to remove any components or the engine itself to get to it?

Thanks for reading!

[iveexcaped3]

if the nismo mounts are poly. then its gonna still have increased vibration vs a full rubber mount. are the mounts tq down to spec? a way to test the egr is there is a little hole on the side of it that you are able to sick your fingers in and pull the valve up if it starts to die out its working if you cant pull that valve up then you need a new egr valve. other wise your looking at a PITA job... the bolts arent easy to remove it..... EGR is the only set up that nissan didnt make friendly on these motors..... is it more of a miss fire feeling?

make sure your idle is at 750rpm and double check your timing make sure its set to 15*BTDC

the only way dirt can get in is if your front seal is bad and youd be dumping oil out the front of your car.

try those and let us know how it goes

[future]

Sounds like a misfire.

[M3Too]

Timings are confirmed at 15 BTDC and idle is set to 750 and idles around 750 to 820.. I've got an electronic timing gun that assisted me on setting the timings.

I need to be educated on misfires. I recall back when I used to work on honda's misfires didn't cause loud internal cabin noises, or sometimes I feel that maybe I don't have a resonator on my exhaust. (i should look into that.)

How can I check for misfires with these engines, other than spending 150 bucks on 3 dyno pulls here in North County San Diego?

In regards to the front seal: I thought the same, my mechanically inclined friend thought that as well.. But everywhere around the crankcase pulley is clean, no oil loss has been observed. It was as though the pully was dipped in wet soil and left to dry. It was really good, rich looking soil when I scraped it all off. lol


Bolts have been torqued properly on both sides of the mounts. Yes I believe the NISMO mounts are poly and not the rubber.


So the EGR is going to be a bitch to remove? any recommendations or tips on how to make my life simpler?

[future]

If you have stiffer mounts and a misfire it can

[M3Too]

okay, i just checked on some videos on how to check for consistent misfires with the sparkplug tests.. i'll be changing my spark plug wires and sparkplugs this week, and maybe then look deeper into changing the rotor cap and other necessities.

[iveexcaped3]

a cheap way to test miss fire is pull a plug wire off each cyl and see if one doesnt have very much drop.... kinda like testing a bad injector..... you can do plugs, wires, cap, rotor for about 60 bucks and that would knock out alot.... when you pull out each plug label which cylinder they go do so you can read whats going on in that cyl.

if the nismos are poly your gonna have vibration period no way around it

[iveexcaped3]

for the egr do the test i told you.... if you have a chiltons manual itll tell you how to test each EGR part since theres 2-4 of them

[M3Too]

i'll do the test as you so instructed. I saw the chilton's manual and now I have a better understanding on what it's attempting to tell me to do.

However, the removal of the EGR is four steps?

1. Remove the nuts with attach the EGR tube and/or the BP tube to the EGR valve (if so equipped)
2. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the heat shield plate from the EGR control valve (if so equipped)
3. Tag and disconnect the EGR, vacuum hose(s)
4: Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the EGR control valve.

This can't be all of it, should there be something else like, REMOVE rubber gas line above EGR etc?

Thanks.

[future]

Check your Ingectors while your at it. My ka24e went through them like a weekly diet lol

[iveexcaped3]

Yes it sounds that easy. No its not so simple when your doing it. There is very minimumal space to get a wrench in there and when you do its only about half an in turns. Lil tip is the EGR tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the egr (3/8 round) take it off the manifold to make it easier.

[bova17]

i read i believe on ka-t egr is only for idle doesnt do much while driving, sounds kind of like injector/s does it pop like around 1k

[iveexcaped3]

Egr does a lot. With out egr your gas mileage goes down and it "keeps emissions low".... Mostly for mileage. I know a few guys with turbo egr ka's.