I searched... need help understanding a GTX2867r setup!

[Lrn2Go]

This may sound dumb... but I know what I want, I just don't know what kind of pieces I need! I searched all the threads I could find, and this may be something so simple people just assume I should know or something. :( But help a guy out!


I want a gtx2867R turbo. I'm not interested in advice for any other turbos. All of my questions pertain to this specific turbo. My power goals are around 300hp at the wheels, and I've got all the supporting mods I need. Yes, I understand this is not really "pushing" this turbo. Again, not what I'm concerned about. I do not want to go with an external wastegate at this time, and yes, I know the pluses and minuses of choosing this option.

This will be going on an s13 blacktop SR20DET.
Are there different Compressor housing options? (like the GT28 series with 2 bolt in, 3 bolt out) Or does it come only one way?
I hear it comes with an "anti-surge machined" compressor housing. Does this still apply if you get (if available) one of the different compressor housings?

I do not have a turbine housing.

From what I understand, I can usually order one of these along with the turbo for around $200. I'd want the .64 a/r off the gt2871r. I think this is a popular option?
I want my turbine housing to be the t25 style that will bolt directly to my current down pipe (aka, any t25/t28 style). If I'm correct, my selection above of the gt2871r's housing will give me exactly this.

Do I need any other bits and pieces to attach the turbine housing to the compressor housing? Clamps, clips, screws, fittings, etc? If so... what and where do I get them?
I believe I need some kind of wastegate bracket. Is this true? Can I re-use my t25's? If I need a new one, where do I get it?
How do I know what wastegate actuator spring I need and should get? My power goals are (as I said) a simple 300-ish HP to the wheels. I have all the supporting mods I need, including a boost controller, fuel, standalone, etc... but I just don't know what spring I need. 7lbs seems to be common... but I also see options for 11 lbs and 14 lbs. I'm now confused. What actuator should I get?


Cliffnotes:
I want to know what all I need for a completely assembled GTX2867r that's as close to "bolt in" as possible into a black-top s13 sr20det.


Thanks for the help ahead of time.

[future]

They have a huge thread for this turbo

[Lrn2Go]

They have a huge thread for this turbo

... I know. Have you read it? I went through all 16 pages. It helped me decide this was the turbo I wanted. However, it's mostly full of people wanting dyno graphs, how they set up external waste gates, etc. It does not cover my questions.

I suppose I could have posted there... But I didn't because I figured a decent amount of thus info could translate over to any GTX turbo that had to be assembled.

[future]

Post it there and get the mods to close this thread before you get flammed, like everybody else on this forum

[iRONDONkey]

overkill for your power goals.

unless you just a baller like that.

[Lrn2Go]

:picardfp:


Fine. Forums these days... sheesh.

Mods... close it up and such if you want.

[iRONDONkey]

that kid is an idiot.

[Seraphim38]

- I can't tell you about the compressor housing choices

- I can say that I went from a .64AR to the external wastegate .73AR housing and I definitely preferred the .64AR housing for its better responsiveness

- For hardware, my advice would be not to cheap out. Go to FRSport and order new stainless studs for the turbo manifold, use NORD lock washers and copper lock nuts. It's way sucky to install a brand new turbo only to have it fall off or leak a day later. And yes, it happens more than people would admit.

- Make sure you get decent turbo feed lines for it, and the right oil restrictor with the turbo. The Circuit Sports lines were fine for me.

- For wastegate spring pressure, you cannot set your boost pressure below your wastegate. So if you want the option of running 7 psi of boost you can't get a wastegate that is 14psi. You might find that the HKS external adjustable wastegate actuator is beneficial. I personally have never used one so I can't offer personal impressions. Personally I used to have a 7 psi wastegate which was helpful one day when I went to do an autocross driving school in the rain (even at 7 psi and with big track tires on the back my car still has traction issues). Now that I have a 15 psi wastegate spring I can't ever turn it down, but that's ok because I don't ever try anymore. I run it at around 19 psi daily anyway.

[Lrn2Go]

- I can't tell you about the compressor housing choices

- I can say that I went from a .64AR to the external wastegate .73AR housing and I definitely preferred the .64AR housing for its better responsiveness

- For hardware, my advice would be not to cheap out. Go to FRSport and order new stainless studs for the turbo manifold, use NORD lock washers and copper lock nuts. It's way sucky to install a brand new turbo only to have it fall off or leak a day later. And yes, it happens more than people would admit.

- Make sure you get decent turbo feed lines for it, and the right oil restrictor with the turbo. The Circuit Sports lines were fine for me.

- For wastegate spring pressure, you cannot set your boost pressure below your wastegate. So if you want the option of running 7 psi of boost you can't get a wastegate that is 14psi. You might find that the HKS external adjustable wastegate actuator is beneficial. I personally have never used one so I can't offer personal impressions. Personally I used to have a 7 psi wastegate which was helpful one day when I went to do an autocross driving school in the rain (even at 7 psi and with big track tires on the back my car still has traction issues). Now that I have a 15 psi wastegate spring I can't ever turn it down, but that's ok because I don't ever try anymore. I run it at around 19 psi daily anyway.

Ahh... now see... this is helpful. So... if I'm understanding you correctly, I will likely want a 7lb wastegate spring since my power goals, for now, are simple and it will leave me room to grow by simply using my boost controller to handle the venting. I'm not sure what the advantages of a higher spring rate would be... but I can probably assume it's a better seal and less chance of bleed at lower boost when you're really pushing it later on.

That's good advice on the lock washers, copper nuts, and new bolts. I hadn't thought of that. More specifically I was wondering if you needed to have anything to mount the turbine half to the compressor half. Since I've never disassembled a turbo before, nor do I have a reason to just pull mine and do it for fun yet... I just don't know. :(

I'm already running a full set of DIF t28 stainless hoses for the s14 turbo I picked up from FRSport, with the proper oil restrictor. So I'm covered there.

Yet one more confirmation that I should stick with the .64 a/r... so I plan on doing so.

[Seraphim38]

I don't think that the 7lb. spring will get you near your power goals. Myabe 11psi would.

The turbo hardware is far worth it.

The only problem with the .64AR housing is the internal wastegate. Personally, my .64AR experience was flawless and I had no problems with mine.

And as far as the prior flames go, I at least remember that everybody has to start somewhere. I hope that when I ask a question people will be willing to help me. Nobody knows everything and anyone who acts like it is being a pretentious prick. While I don't believe in the Eastern principle of Karma, the concept does seem fitting to be mentioned.

[S14DB]

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/432611-new-garrett-gtx2867r.html