View Full Version : sr20 trade for rb25 with bent valve
kasestudies
11-05-2012, 12:04 PM
So i have a sr20 red top in my 91 s13 and it has a light rod knock on number 4. I have been considering trading my swap for another's rb25 swap which has a bent valve on number 6. my question is this, is it even feasible for me to repair the rb25 cheaper than replacing my sr with a new one?
slideslidegnarslide
11-05-2012, 12:31 PM
No end of story. It's gonna cost you the price of 4 srs to get the rb in your car and running
kasestudies
11-05-2012, 01:12 PM
thank you very much, i guess its time to order a new one
slideslidegnarslide
11-05-2012, 01:14 PM
Not trying to kill a dream but just think after repairing the rb you need drive shaft mounts harness different rad all kinds of stuff
fliprayzin240sx
11-05-2012, 03:11 PM
Well, if you guys are trading straight up where he gives you everything he has to swap the RB into your car (assuming you both have S13s), I would fucking jump on it. If its just a bent valve, you can pull the head before you swap it in, get the valve replaced, slap a fresh gasket kit on it, ARP head stud, new water pump and thermo, be done with it.
This coming from somebody who's been fucking with SRs the last 6 yrs, whose last SR is 500hp (that blew) and just went with a stock RB25 swap.
Corbic
11-05-2012, 05:20 PM
And before you buy a newly 20 year old SR from a scrap yard... why not just fix the one you have?
kasestudies
11-05-2012, 11:23 PM
What about possibly getting De pistons with main ,rodbearings? What else should be replaced?
fliprayzin240sx
11-06-2012, 01:49 PM
You talking about fixing your SR? I'd do a full rebuild on it since if you have rod knock on one, the rest is soon to follow. Then you still have to figure out why it started knocking. Is it just detonation or oiling issue. You get to the point that you might as full just do the whole bottom end just to be safe. That means, strip it down to bare bottom end, get the cylinders re-honed, hot tanked to clean out the oil galleys, fresh oil pump, timing chain, timing guides, fresh rings, rod bearings, main bearings and fresh seal kit.
You can do it for cheaper but you'd be cutting alot out and doesnt gurantee that you're issue wont come back.
Corbic
11-08-2012, 05:17 AM
You can easily say the same thing about the RB with a bent valve.
Shit happens. These are all 20 year old garbage motors discarded as scrap and shipped to 'merika because we're stupid enough to pay money for them.
You have to figure, on that $1700 SR at the other end of the world is a Japanese kid getting $250 for the pull out as he dumps it off at a yard, and he's happy for it.
If you take your crank and block to a ENGINE/MACHINE shop they will inspect it for any knock causing abnormalities. Get it bored, honed and hot tanked, rebuild that bitch and you'll have a hot fresh new engine.
Don't take it to your local idiot tuner shop that operates out of a rental storage unit. They have neither the tools or experience to deal with a rebuild inspection.
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