Turbocharged BTCC SR20 - 1000bhp

[Teigen]

http://s18.postimg.org/h6xr64veh/suprgt.png

the build thread of my slow going silvia.
Spent a lot of money to get real gt300 parts, these are hyper rare as there was only made 3 cars and most of the patrts are trashed trough small crashes etc.

build started out as sleeper but now is a fully racebred timeattack car
1000hp, sequential gearbox, 380mm brakes, gt300 real bodykit parts, magnesium rims, btcc engine ++

Have fun reading trough the shit :)

*** CURRENT STATUS IMAGE ***
http://s22.postimg.org/828rrniox/btcc.jpg


ENGINE SPEC LIST


Cylinder Head

P10 Primera BTCC Head
Supertech Dual Valve Spring
Supertech Titanium Retainers, SR20
Supertech Nitrit Titanium Valves BTCC size
Custom designed to this engine after flowtesting, manufactured by order from KM cams
CNC Adjustable Cam Gears
Mazworx 1/2" Head Stud Kit w/ Dowels
Mazworx SR20DET Headgasket, 90mm Bore and 1/2" Studs
Ported out oil ports for better oilflow
NISSAN CNC'd combustion chamber, later CNC'd by me for 90mm with low squish


Block

S15 RWD turbo Block
Darton Sleeves inserted, bore 90MM
Oil supply: DrySump system
1/2" main studs mazworx
4 Custom made on order CP Pistons (set of 4) -- 90mm 9.5:1 (Gasported)
Custom Connecting Rods, SR20 Crower
Wiseco 90 mm Billet Crankshaft
Rod Bearing 19,5mm Special made
ATI Super Damper
Waterpump - Dual Electric Meziere drag race waterpump
Selfmade drysump oilpan
Ported oil ports to match cylinderhead
Bore & Hone w/ Torque Plate -- 90MM
Resize Line Bore
Resurface Block & Oil Pump
Oil Groove Machining, SR20
19mm Rod Bearing Machining



Engine Misc


Mazworx Hallsensor Kit
Custom oil catch tank with -an16 fittings
Sand blasted alternator +powder coated alternator bracket
Lamborghini Black Whrinkle paint Valve Cover
NO OILCAP
Rocker Studs, Rocker Washers, Stainless Dome Nuts


INDUCTION

Exhaust side

TO BE ORDERED - Custom Borg Warner turbo
Dual 40mm Turbosmart Comp gates
Custom 4 inch aluminium intake pipe
Custom braided turbo oil/water lines
MLS 4 layer metal exhaust gasket
No turbo flange gasket

Cold side

Custom WRC Plenum
Customised Internal Throttle Bodies (ITBs) (4 x 46,5mm)
Custom aluminium cold pipe
-An fittings for IM
wiggins clamp


FUELLING

4x Injector Dynamics 2200cc Injectors
4x Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors
Stock fuel tank (for lowest weight point)
Walbro 255 Inline lift pump
Triple Bosch 044 external pumps
5ltr surge tank
2 inline -an 10 AEM fuel filters
Nylon braided lines with AN fitting whole fuel system
Braided lines feed -an 10 return -an 8
CNC dual fuel rail
Aeromotive FPR

DRIVETRAIN

Prototype Hoolinger/Quaif/grex sequential gear (6 gear)
Triple plate carbon clutchF1 custom flywheel
Braided clutch line
Carbon tail shaft
Carbonetics Carbon LSD 1,5 way
Custom Engine and Trans mounts


THE STORY:


First I can write a few details about myself
My home country is Norway, which somehow happens to be a place where JDM parts are not floating around and something one stumbles across every now and then :sadwavey:

My car is a 95 s14, bought it about half a year ago, during spring time here.
The car had BOTH nats 1 and 2 installed, as well as 3 GM market aftermarket security boxes. car was DEAD... totally
Car was built in sweden for previous owner as a drag car with 5-600 whp after what i've heard with some piggyback shit system, thats about the specs I know about the car.
Here is a couple images from the previous owner, as it was before mounting the Skyline rear wing

When I finally saved up the remaining money (No, Silvias aren't thrown at you around up here, and pretty rare) and took a tralley and picked it up it it had a sr20det blacktop swap with 112000 on it, not modified at all, except t28BB turbo which is standard in Japan
tried making it ignite for weeks but got tired of it.

took some tools and started removing OEM ecu and every wiring which was not made by Nissan. Resulting in having only blinkers relay and wiring for the front wipers left, of all the wires going to the engine bay :bowrofl:

As I am having experience with Autronic standalone systems I decided to get one for my SX as well, still in thinking of having a pretty non modded s14 with just a litte more boost than regular....( I bet you all is aware of the trap (wont tune it a lot)

Time flies and plans change, bought a pretty good top mount mani, JUN intake, 740cc JECS injectors, pretty cheap China turbo with 84 ar exhaust and 70 ar compressor housing. + some other small stuff
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_1257.jpg

plan was maxing the engine @ original parts inside both cylinder head and block, except some Brian C stage 3 cams ( got them for free with the intake so why not. After a couple weeks working with it, mounting stuff and such things began getting ready for startup, with having barely 2 months left before season was totally over for the 2012 in Norway.
Trying to make it to the last of the Norwegian Gatebil series, one weekend of racing and girls, just the startup itself was missing.

Fitted with Autronic and walbro 255 inline pump things were about to be ready for my m8s dynapack.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_1267.jpg

Then some sad stuff happened, cranking it around a few rounds and it stopped. Removing a plug and E85 floated out of the plughole! Actually all 4 cylinders, Intake mani, Exhaust mani, FMIC and a bit of the exhaust was filled with E85. Something had happened to the injectors and fuelrail and the pump literally did its job, pumping a lot of fuel!

Being a bit sad and down, I cranked it empty in order do try saving my new Agip racing oil from being waste but I was already too late. the next day my mates went off to the track and there was nothing I could do. Was almost broke anyway so guess I saved money On not going to a racetrack and get more inspired to spend more money on my car hehe
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_0993.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_0994.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_0999.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1000.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1001.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1004.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1005.jpg

Engine out!
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1010.jpg
Starting to take apart the head
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1014.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1015.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1016.jpg

Head off
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1019.jpg
Most cylinders looked good but 1 piston had a few markings onto it
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1020.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1021.jpg

Bottom demount
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1033.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1035.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1036.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1040.jpg

and now, putting apart a little of it as this block goes to Cylmo (http://www.Cylmo.no) for having Darton sleeves installed and later being a "showoff" on thei stand on norways largest motor show
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/SAM_1056.jpg Bye bye srblock!
Will welcome it back soon, as a SR22 block with sleeves inserted :) So that story is not over for now.

Here is me looking like an idiot next to it @ the show
http://s11.postimage.org/vqgox8s0j/meandblock.png

*
The past months I've come across a rare sr engine, Will throw up a picture of it. Some of you probably recognizes it?
http://s8.postimage.org/53agjzwxh/engine2.png
Can tell a few of the specs which if done to the engine after its original primera usage

Darton sleeves, bored to 90mm
Mazworx 1/2 cylinder head bolts
The cylinderhead floeated pretty good as a N/A, but was sent to DTE racing in Sweden for more modifications. (This guy " Dr. Ernie" made the cylinder head and cams etc for Hotwok cherry, as well as Madtech s14. both cars made more than 900 whp)
From his measurements and work Kelford Cams made the cams and basicly everything in the cylinder head is made to fit eachother and my Garret GT4094r, I got both 95 ar exhaust and 85 ar exhaust for it.
The btcc head
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/IMG_3868.jpg[/IMG]
Dry sump is removed, as it might would not fit. Got a custom oilpan made, as the Greddy oilpan isn't good enough with aggressive grip driving
Gearbox is a new Tremec TKO600 with Libery Gears parts, converted to Dogbox, as well as longer splines on the shaft in the bellhouse so that the 2-plate tilton will require some grip.


Making it fit wasnt that hard in the end, with a Custom made exhaust manifold from Greddy things began looking good. I have all the time been sure about having my engine mounted in level, also the bellhousing on the gearbox is welded for that. On the image below you can see that it might doesnt get that bad anyway even with OEM engine mounts. The shifter would tilt a bit towards me but maybe it only is a good thing having it closer
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/girkasse.png
First try
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motortestfit.jpg
Emptied bay again. And no worries, Will be totally sexy when done, with new cool things and some nice paint
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorrom.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorinnibil.jpg
Inside the car I am working to make the OMP seats fit, would love to thev a slider underneath them but We'll see. All wires you can see in the image is removed and things are getting sexy in there now :)
Another problem I met with having this engine mounted is the FWD CAS, which would hit my firewall. This problem is fixed without cutting my dear Silvia, getting an SR20VE cas, which would fit the head and also is not thicker than an OEM rwd cas.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorcas.jpg

Beautiful little Silvia next to my mates old Opel. After 4 Opel CIH engines hazards, he decided to build and Volvo 8v turbo... (I dislike volvo hehe)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorbothcar.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorbackto.jpg

The Turbo I have decided to use on the right, GT4094R, I have both 85 a/r and 95 a/r exhaust to try out. Here is some cylinder head bolts, guess which of them I got installed :D
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/P3060056.jpg
Last thing I have started with is lowering the whole rear setup
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorback.jpg
Will be fitted with everything that can be exchanged and will work good with grip driving. Was an easy job, took me about 1,1/2 - 2 hours as I have never done this to a s14 before,

Will update this post daily with images and info about whats been done

Cheers
Teigen

[Teigen]

Sorry for late Update, was only updating my build thread in the Premium members section. Copying and pasting what I have wrote there:

11-23-2012, 05:56 PM

So, there have actually been some nice updates to the car, I will throw up some images and write a text to each of them, Enjoy!

The engine bay is these days totally clean and most paint is matted or removed, by hand of course for the best result! It's not awesome work but one gets used to it, and a baby like this needs some love ;)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motorrom3.jpg

Removed everything, including that I drilled out the bonnet/hood locking device to, as I have sanded that and it will get a slightly different color than the rest, but thats just a minor detail!
80% of the holes in the engine bay will be welded and then grinded down to the invisible! I don't want anymore holes in my chassis than I have to! :) Also in the "Do, or should not" weld the seems of the front towers and such, most likey end ut with doing it to get more stiffness to the chassis.

Original battery placement was the only rusty place on the whole car, believe it or not! Of course the battery will be place rear, on the opposite side of the driver to obtain weight balance as I guess I will most likely drive alone with no passengers, at least when doing timeattack etc.
The fusebox is also removed, along with absolutely all wires, and every wire in the engine bay will be remade to look as nice as possible and clean! Fusebox will be placed in the rear, + I will try to make a custom fusebox, as half of the fuses and wires is removed as I no longer need them, most likely end up with some aluminium stuff :)

the 2 pieces of metal which I cut away, on both sides in the front of the bay was too ugly, and I want things to look clean and therefore I am making new plates to weld in there. Also will make some custom piping to the intercooler. :coold:

Regarding the interior, most is removed as of cleaning up wires etc, and the mid-console is going to be the place with the switches! The car is meant to be a sleeper, and after hours of thinking I got this idea of making the switches in the "box" in the back of the mid-console.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/konsoll5.jpg


Anyway, had to make the switches fit in there, and room for wires and such, so therefore I made a plate inside the box/room thing.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/konsoll4.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/konsoll3.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/konsoll.jpg

Painted the plate in the special Wrinkle Paint, used om lambhorginis and stuff, this is the same paint as I use on my rocker cover on both my engines, as well as the turbohousing and plenum. This will be invisible when the box is closed, but once I open it, voila! a ton of switches, for things like Antilag, Launchcontrol, Fans, waterpump etc etc


Another thing that is solved is the Oil system. As you mught know the BTCC engines had dry sump, but this system requires some space and I the engine would not fit with that on. Therefore I built wetsump, and had Moroso make me an Oil pan after my measurements, could have used a Greddy one, but those just ain't good enough. Also, I have mounted an Accusump! I am not going to explain how it works, but it keeps oils pressure on top even if the pump would fail in heavy corners. you can google it and you will Understand. Image coming!


Now, over to the sexy part!


Finally had them Internal Throttlebodies, aka ITBs mounted yesterday. These are ported 4 x 46mm throttlebudies, one for each cylinder. This will increase throttle response and such, but mostly this is helpful when having natural aspiration.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/spjeld3.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/spjeld2.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/spjeld.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motormspjeld.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motormspjeld2.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/motormgren.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/innispjeld.jpg



Cheers, Will write more soon. If you have any questions, or would like more photos, feel free to ask! :)


__________________________________________________ _________________________



Yesterday, 01:34 PM

How exactly did you come across that head?


been looking for decades, until I found it by visiting a Nissan Guru for buying a few parts and by coincidence saw he had one.


UPDATE: :yum:

For the last months it's been going slow, but I have finally placed a milestone in my little project.

after removing everything from the enginebay, yes, everything except the windshield wiper engine, I was not able to remove it :mad:

When things were strapped I encouraged to start cutting into my dear Silvia, at first removing the metal underneath where the batteryhousing was, as seen on the pictures in the earlier post.
STarted welding things done, spotwelded some parts, filled most smaller holes, replaced some metal, seem welded towers and grinded down
When that was done, maybe the worst part came, sanding everything down, then laying the filler, sanding down, adding filler, sanding down... hehe yes, taking shitloads of time. I would say that when I felt done, I was happy, because it is not something I would like to repeat!

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSCF6035.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSCF6037.jpg

Hung up some tarpaulins around the car and washed the enginebay with thinner a couple of times, waited for it to dry then added the base filler/grey paint.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0011.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0013.jpg


The next day, got paint made in the paintshop and went up to the garage for painting.

http://s14.postimage.org/9hrhnr3g1/DSC_0032_1.jpg

Laying the color done: http://s14.postimage.org/8ojh8vmsx/DSC_0034_1.jpg

Adding the last layers with transparent gloss
http://s14.postimage.org/nh2fotdtd/DSC_0035_1.jpg

And voilÃ*, things looks so much better. Pictures below are after about 15 hours of dry

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/bay1_zpsef4374a4.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/bay2_zps8be3f5b3.jpg


Letting the baby get a feeling of the "new" home, I could not stand having an engine like that, bolted up in a dirty and bad-looking enginebay :wiggle:
This time mountined it with the gearbox mounted to the engine, but surprisingly the paint was not scratched any places! :bowdown:

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/bay4_zps6ac43c4d.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/bay5_zps8a7b9911.jpg

Ordered AN fittings and steelbraided lines for 1087 US dollars with todays currency! Must admit it's in imo shit expensive for AN fittings, at least here in Norway.

Bought 2 x Meziere waterpumps, they are quite big and heavy, so I guess they will flow the water pretty fast. Each pump delivers 22 gallons trough the engine. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41uqGHedtCL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Also got fabbed an expansion tank for the radiator in aluminium.



Will update this in mid January, hopefully more things are done then :)


HAPPY NEW YEARS EVE!

__________________________________________________ _________________________

[Teigen]

Going to post up a few pictures of the engine and components. Feel free to ask anything

Here is my custom made twinscroll exhaust manifold, inside the collector, it's made in a special way so it starts spinning the air aldready before the turbo.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/gren.jpg



To make shit hold some serious boost, one have to get rid of the Normal size studs for head, so I had this as an replacement, 1/2"
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/maz11001_1.jpg

Picture of the block with new bolts, and Dartons inserted + powder painted
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/IMG_4100.jpg


Cylinder head http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/IMG_3868.jpg

[Big Zee]

BTCC head is from what motor ? it sounds like its similar to a NEO VVL but it has a different VC.

interesting build though, keep up the awesome work!!

[drscooper]

very interesting and nice man! keep up the good work! sounds like its going to be a beast!

[Teigen]

Thanks guys, I enjoy (almost) every hour I spend on this project :)

Today i test-fitted the Mezeire water pumps, i have still not decided but I most likely will have one pushing into motor and one pushing into radiator, that way the system keeps up the flow all the way around. 1 pump is going to run all the time, and the second will start at a specific temperature, so the water flow incrases and temperature hopefully decreases a bit. Will also make an override button so that I can force 1 waterpump running all the time by using a switch, for like when engine is really warm and I stop the engine, waterpump can still run etc, or if it should get hot while waiting to get out on the track I can manually start the second pump so that it flows better when no air going trough radiator, except the fans.

By first look I thought this would be nice positions, but when I just held the radiator where it belongs I could see that it would not fit with the pump on the left side/ would make a messy and bad solution. So that is also something I have to figure out, the pumps are quite big and heavy so cannot mount then anywhere.
http://s1.postimage.org/uoxz82ixr/DSC_0073_1.jpg


Also just took some old Silicone and pipes and made an early sketch of how the IC piping would be from turbo to the IC. The valve on the tower is the electronic boost solenoid for my Autronic ECU
http://s13.postimage.org/5h3e1y2yf/DSC_0075_1.jpg



The Engine was originally a BTCC (British Touring Car Championship) engine, developed by Nissan with the SR20DE as base in the 90s.
By the end they could produce up to 340 BHP and USABLE torque as a Non-Turbo engine in the Primera P10,P11 which was the car Nissan raced in the class.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jtLuIe3n6Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4657veIQ1M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n8OTdbanJo

[Mofuhcka]

That engine is gonna be a load of fun to drive

[codyace]

Nice seeing the updates !

[Teigen]

Nice seeing the updates !

Thank you my friend, I will keep them coming! :)

[projectkouki]

Nice build man! Can't wait to see the HP numbers!

[Teigen]

Nice build man! Can't wait to see the HP numbers!

Thanks! I'm dying to get this done myself hehe.

Running with 1680cc injectors and e85, head flows for 1200, only problem is producing enough exhaust to get some serious BAR/PSI :)

[ehhhregartless]

what are your power goals? what do you plan to do with the car once its done? and why go for such a huge turbo, sheesh!

[Teigen]

what are your power goals? what do you plan to do with the car once its done? and why go for such a huge turbo, sheesh!

Want to test how far this little badass can go, everything is built to hold 1200 hp

Would been nice to see it make 1001 or something if lucky
Going to drive grip/ timeattack with it, and maybe I do some dragracing who knows. Also would like to sneak it into the public road in the summer, cruise a little and play those germans and amercan cars a lesson hehe no offend :)
Wont be much of that, totally illegal to bring this car in the public in Norway

[Teigen]

Evening folks!
time for todays little update, havent done much but it's going forward as usual :)


Today I only had a few hours to spend so had to work a little quick, started the day rethinking of the placement of the Meziere waterpumps, where I am using 1 pump each side of radiator. After some thinking and measurements I found the best spot top place the pump that will push water into the radiator:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0090.jpg

Spot's great and will give quite short passage for the water to reach the radiator, I can tell that It wont help anything about cooling if one have 30 cm of tubing or 10 meters. Will mount the aifilter close the the car's frame in the large hole i Cut there, will pass waterpump fine so wont be any trouble hitting that.


Another thing I did today was testmounting the IC and the radiator, the new radiator is going to fit fine and I will have lots of space for maybe a 3rd or 4th Fan between the IC and radiator, as the OEM Aircondition radiator is long gone :)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0086.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0094.jpg 2x 12" fans

About cooling the engine's oil, I wont be doing the classic way of having an air-cooled oilcooler. Instead i picked a watercooler oilcooler made for the Industry, like large diggers and other machines. This is of very high quality and can hold up to 40 bars of oil pressure ( Cause it's bare for hydraulics) and temperature up to 200. Effectivity is around 6kw and This will work great. "MadTech" SR20 project used this as well, they made over 900hp in their S14A.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0089.jpg



http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0092.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0093.jpg

Having a problem using SR20 top feed, will need some fabrication to make this work!


Peace!

[MeSs]

Another Norwegian :) Nice!

Awesome project! :) Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't the itb restrict alot of hp?

[Teigen]

Another Norwegian Nice!

Awesome project! Maybe a stupid question, but wouldn't the itb restrict alot of hp?

thanks! Norsk? :) -

no it would not i think, whats your theory?




Posted from Zilvia.net App for Android

[silviavert]

Good Stuff

[Teigen]

Good Stuff

Thank you
More updates tonight

[Teigen]

Rest of intake manifold test mounted, more pictures and a larger update tonight. + som more revealing of parts used on this machine!

[bc.]

this thing is cool

[TheRealSy90]

I love this build.

[MeSs]

thanks! Norsk? :) -

no it would not i think, whats your theory?


Stemmer det :) Godt nyttår! Hvis man fortsatt kan si det.

-

Ive just never seen a 8-900+ RB26 with the stock intake manifold w/itb. :)
Maybe the stock intake manifold doesnt flow that good.

Thats why i said "Maybe a stupid question". I wish i had a theory.

[Teigen]

this thing is cool

Thank you!

I love this build.

I love it too! Thanks

Stemmer det :) Godt nyttår! Hvis man fortsatt kan si det.

-

Ive just never seen a 8-900+ RB26 with the stock intake manifold w/itb. :)
Maybe the stock intake manifold doesnt flow that good.

Thats why i said "Maybe a stupid question". I wish i had a theory.

Takk det samme! :)

-

I have big faith in this, those are custom, not much stockish. + they flow more than a 3" single throttlebody. I have had this flow tested and it will follow. Cams are custom built for this setup, and although it looks original on the outside, it's not ;) + Will earn 0.01 seconds faster throttle respond :)

[Teigen]

Update

Sorry, got a bit late, but better late then never :snoop:

So, I can start off by some more info about the gearbox, it's a brand new Tremec TKO600 with forged internals from Liberty Gears, a company that is specialists on these.
Also got DOG rings so I can shift gear without clutching if I want to, fast shifting etc. Anyway I will use the clutch tho, so used to it :)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/girkasse-1.jpg

Also have a custom axle with longer splines so that my twin disc Tilton get some serious grip. Using a twin disc on regular isnt helping much, when the rear disc isnt fully in contact with the splines....
Picture:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/aksel.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/aksel2.jpg

Also, had to make the gearbox fit the engine so I cut off the bellhousing of a Primera gearbox and made an adapter plate and voila, in the game. :)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/girkasse2.jpg


About making the block stand some serious beating, it got inserted with some badass sleeves. Without sleeves, one can see that the aluminium in the top doesnt like the heat and beating. This picture is from Woken, a Nissan Cherry dragmachine, worlds fastest FWD under 9 seconds...
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/blokkfail.jpg

Inserted ones:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/foringer.jpg

90mm bore to make it SR22 :coolugh:


In the bottom, Using a custom made scraper for the crankshaft, so that the oil is removed to insure no trouble hitting the oil etc.



Exhaust manifold, EGT sensors.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/eksos.jpg



ABout the fuelsystem, I am using a custom swirlpot, which is feeded by a Walbro 255 inline pump. It flows great for filling the swirlpot, actually a strong little machine :)

From the swirlpot to the fuelrail, the main pumps, Dual Bosch 044 is used. They build great pressure and is still delivering. Here is a graph of the Aeromotive A1000 pump compared to Bosch and Walbro

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/pumpe.jpg




The clutch and Flywheel is a bit custom, dics are custom to ensure it handles heating well and not haveing to replace so fast.

The flywheel have been fabricated with a inserted plate to rub the clutch on, as the flywheel isnt something one inds everywhere It can be reused if the clutch fucks it up etc. The plate can easily be replaced.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/svinghjul.jpg





Thats it for today folks, Hope you like the thread.
Best regards

[ali-d1936]

Awsome sauce! Lucky find With the head man, you norway guys build crazy machines :)

[Teigen]

Awsome sauce! Lucky find With the head man, you norway guys build crazy machines :)


Thanks man! Yeah pretty crazy, maybe there is like 20 left in the world maximum. I heard a rumor of 34 of them being made, I dont know if it is right. Anyway there wasnt THAT many BTCC cars for sure :) Definately having a piece of Nissan/Motorsport history in my Silvia.


Pretty expensive build, and parts are even more expensive up here as Norway have some ridicolous taxes and taxrates.
When paycheck comes its about 20 hours until its almost empty, only enough left for diesel to my car and bills hehe :)

[Teigen]

more pics tonight. solved waterpump placement as well! :D cheers


Posted from Zilvia.net App for Android

[Teigen]

Updates :)

Let me start off with the OEM SR20 waterpump placement on the block. The OEM waterpump isn't flowing enough water trough to keep up with some serious horsepowers which again makes more heat to the engine. The pump simply does not flow enough! Here is an image of the inside of the waterpum placement on the SR20 block
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/vannpumoe.jpg

As you see, it is a quite small opening for the water, whihc restricts the water flow. This opening makes a far less volume than the waterflow into the waterpump. So what I did to make sure things would flow good is to gently remove the "restrictor" with an airtool
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/vannpumpe2.jpg


Another thing I got in hand is a AEM water/methanol injection kit. For now I will not use it, but after the first dynosession I will read the logs and watch the numbers of every sensor in the angine and do some mathematic challenge and figure out if i would be a good thign to try this. I do not want to hazard this engine, cant just go to the local shop and order a new one lol :down:

If I commit to use the injection kit it will be only when the tempratures reach a certain number. Does not want to be using this all the time, to experience what happens with too much pressure and the water injection tank runs out... :)



The plenum from an old WRC car over in Canada is Cast aluminium, some say it flows the air good and others only use polished plenums and runners. I want to try the polished version, but as this is cast the surface wasnt exactly very smooth inside, rather sandy http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0139.jpg

So, smart and full of bravery I started sanding it down with some very small-corned sand paper, so soft one could rub it to the skin and it would not scratch much :) After almost 8 hours it looks like this
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0137.jpg


Starting to look good, and it feels as well. I can no longer feel anything but a silk-smooth surface when i sweep my fingers across. Sanded it the way I want the air to flow correct into the runners with spinning. Still not done tough, tomorrow I am starting all over, with paper so fine thing wont even need polishing when it's done hehe. Will take some more pictures. My opinion is that air flows best at smooth surfaces, but I know people also says that there is nothing air flows as good at as air laying in the rough surface.




Old image og head :) http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/topp2.jpg

[Teigen]

Updated first post with info for those who wants to know internals and measurments etc

[bc.]

Updates :)

Let me start off with the OEM SR20 waterpump placement on the block. The OEM waterpump isn't flowing enough water trough to keep up with some serious horsepowers which again makes more heat to the engine. The pump simply does not flow enough! Here is an image of the inside of the waterpum placement on the SR20 block
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/vannpumoe.jpg

As you see, it is a quite small opening for the water, whihc restricts the water flow. This opening makes a far less volume than the waterflow into the waterpump. So what I did to make sure things would flow good is to gently remove the "restrictor" with an airtool
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/vannpumpe2.jpg

Have you seen this done before with success? I am a little skeptical of grinding away part of the pump housing. I would be afraid of a pressure drop or something. I am in for the updates and data from your cooling setup:coold:


Old image og head :) http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/topp2.jpg
Did you get combustion chamber smoothing and rolling/removal of the squish area? Or is this just the way the stock head looks?

[Teigen]

No it did not come quite that way but quite Nice. Redone and made to fit 90mm bore/ 2,2 liter

[projectkouki]

Bad ass build, man!

[Teigen]

Bad ass build, man!


Thanks :bow:

[STR8E180]

looks like the cylinder head is pretty much just a GTiR SR20DET cylinder head

[boyou2]

It is, no NVCS/VVL cams, ITBs, and the admission entry angle looks like the redtop head one.

[Teigen]

Definitely not just a redtop sr20 head or a GTiR head. Seriously?

[Teigen]

GTiR ITB's does not even fit a bit to the head, Had to fabricate to make it work, and tons of porting of the ITB's to make them work.

Here is a picture of a original/stock BTCC engine
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n16/gtikurt/633_4_SR20-NA-JGTC-engine.jpg

Ports are twice as large as any normal SR head, Janspeed/ Nissan spent 36 million GBP back in the 90s to make the engine for the BTCC cars produced upto 340 BHP naturally aspired as a 2.0

[STR8E180]

what so special about the head? ports dont look that big
ports look the same as any other sr20de/sr20det cylinder head

i just dont see what makes that cylinder head so much better then any other sr20de/sr20det cylinder head

[Teigen]

it's diffrently build than a regular sr20de head. Think of it, they made up to 340 BHP as a 2.0 natural aspiration engine, try to make that with a a stock SR20de head! ;) its a bit different built up and the ports are about twice the size areal or a sr20de head + valves guides and such is not regular. Flows unbelivable good, and when youhit up a turbo on this there is crazyness happening, could not done the same with a normal sr20de head at all.

+ there was made about 34 of them, and I heard there is about 12 left, which makes it pretty special itself. it's a lot of tech inside, ofc on the outside it looks normal, it isnt always the outside look that tells you everything you know :D

the BTCC engines and heads were produced by Janspeed UK on licence from Nissan. At first Tomei was chosen to make this but they failed so Janspeed took over

[STR8E180]

i just dont understand why u would go through all that work when a ve head is the same amount of work and is a better performing cylinder head
there is no way those ports on your cylinder head is as big as a ve cylinder head
and there is no way the valve train design is any where near as reliable as a ve cylinder head

like if your going to go through all that work make it worth while and use the best cylinder head u can get your hands on
and the best cylinder head for any sr20 block is a P12 sr20ve cylinder head

[Road2Perfection]

i just dont understand why u would go through all that work when a ve head is the same amount of work and is a better performing cylinder head
there is no way those ports on your cylinder head is as big as a ve cylinder head
and there is no way the valve train design is any where near as reliable as a ve cylinder head

like if your going to go through all that work make it worth while and use the best cylinder head u can get your hands on
and the best cylinder head for any sr20 block is a P12 sr20ve cylinder head

I would agree that a properly machined/ported VE head with the cooling issues sorted would be better, but still, this is far better than the GTIR heads, atleast it is far better than any other head for N/A applications, how it's for turbo I cannot say all for certant.

a VE head isnt better because it flows better, which I doubt, but only due to the fact you have VVL that gives you power over a bigger range and earlier spool which is rather important if you ask me.

[STR8E180]

I would agree that a properly machined/ported VE head with the cooling issues sorted would be better, but still, this is far better than the GTIR heads, atleast it is far better than any other head for N/A applications, how it's for turbo I cannot say all for certant.

a VE head isnt better because it flows better, which I doubt, but only due to the fact you have VVL that gives you power over a bigger range and earlier spool which is rather important if you ask me.

how does a ve head have cooling issues, i havent had a single cooling issue what so ever with my ve cylinder head

the ve head not only flows a shit load more it has a more reliable valve train
the rocker arms are held in place with a rod which runs from one end of the cylinder to the other end holding the rocker arm in place it doesnt matter how hard you rev the engine the rocker arm isnt going to pop off

sr20ve ports against sr20de/sr20det ports
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/str8e180/DSC_0014-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/supercowboy/SR20VE/f964205d.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/supercowboy/SR20VE/DSC00195.jpg

[bc.]

You guys are crazy for criticizing him on this. It's a head and it's a damn good one at that. Why don't you just ask him why he isn't putting a V8 in it?

[Road2Perfection]

I've never heard of much issues with Valves and such on DE heads, however, I know for a fact that a VE head is better due to the fact that it's variable, meaning earlier spool, meaning wider possible RPM spectre to play with.
However the peak output, I doubt there will be any difference whatsoever.

I'm for the VE head, but unless he wins the lottery, the plans won't really change.
if money wasnt a issue the build would have been done by now :P

[Teigen]

You guys are crazy for criticizing him on this. It's a head and it's a damn good one at that. Why don't you just ask him why he isn't putting a V8 in it?


Thank you, I am so glad there is people like you here!
For information: If I wanted to have what a VE head can give me that the BTCC head won't I would ofc used the VE head.

And saying that your VE head flows "shit loads more" than my BTCC head then I think you would have to come here and see.

VE was developed during 1996 and If it was any better, Nissan would have used that, and not the DE to win the BTCC championship with their primera.
The BTCC isnt a normal SR20DE head, it was in fact made with more material around the ports so that the ports could be as a large as possible. Do you think your stock VS head would beat a stock BTCC head as N/A engine? I don't think so

Valves are also slightly larger
+ these engines could do 9500 rpm, no problem! Without having issues with rocker arms etc. + of course i have custommade rocker arms in a different material than those of a regular SR20DE head...

+ there was made like 34 engines for BTCC, so no, I'd not rather throw my DE head and pruchase a regular VE head.

Also, you mentioned the ports were small compared to a VE? I don't think so!
http://s8.postimage.org/fa21ffh91/head.jpg





Today's Update:

Finally got some more Argon gas for my TIG welder so I could start welding some more on the plenum, got almost finished but it's not yet complete.
Still waiting for some new bolts that would fit for the special holes in the Meziere waterpumps.

Also came to the decision today that I am going to make the whole suspension setup myself together with a mate which works with delivering to the sportscar industry racing.

Of course Coilovers I will not make myself ;) But mostly everything else.
Going to use a very solid metal used to aircraft industry + lotsa uniballs. Everything will be adjustable. + going to machine some 50mm spacers so that the car will handle a bit better in the rough corners with higher speed.
For tires I am hoping to maybe get some 285 fitted under there

[Imarvin240]

Don't worry about all the people saying do a VE. I myself actually am doing a stroked VE, but i love seeing rare/new/extreme swaps. I personally get tired of the same old basic swaps, but hey to each his own with his own money :) also, great job on the build so far.

[Teigen]

Don't worry about all the people saying do a VE. I myself actually am doing a stroked VE, but i love seeing rare/new/extreme swaps. I personally get tired of the same old basic swaps, but hey to each his own with his own money :) also, great job on the build so far.

Thanks mate, hows the displacement in your ve? 2,3?
Flow tested the head of mine to a lot over 1000bhp
Lift is have is 13,1 so will be getting enough air in hehe, a ve head would never beat the btcc head.
Doing some small stuff every day, minor parts but its often the most time taking.
Like alternators adjusting, making newparts and such. Will post up some pics during the weekend of new smaller things that has been done.
Yesterday I was in sweden, picking up the new cylinderhead for my brothers Volvo 242 16v. Quite extreme that too.

[STR8E180]

I've never heard of much issues with Valves and such on DE heads,

you have never seen a rocker arm pop of on a det cylinder head? its one of the most common problems with high reving det cylinder heads


Also, you mentioned the ports were small compared to a VE? I don't think so!
im sure your ports are bigger then a normal sr20det cylinder head but there is no chance they are any where near the size of of a ve port


Don't worry about all the people saying do a VE. I myself actually am doing a stroked VE, but i love seeing rare/new/extreme swaps. I personally get tired of the same old basic swaps, but hey to each his own with his own money :) also, great job on the build so far.
im all for seeing some thing new its more exciting then seeing the same old thing done over and over again im just trying to work out why you would spend so much money and effort on a special rare cylinder head when there is a better option out there

[STR8E180]

a ve head would never beat the btcc head.
mate your dreaming if you think your BTCC cylinder head will out perform a ve cylinder head

im not doubting your BTCC cylinder head isnt better then a sr20det cylinder head but i doubt it will out perform a ve cylinder head
i just think your making a BTCC cylinder head out to be better then it actually is

micks motorsports is running into the 6 second bracket with a ve head
ben bray is running in the 7 second bracket with a billet block ve head
Dps imports is running in the 7 second bracket with a ve head
There is more but that's all I can remember off the top of my head

[ForeignMuscle]

a ve head would never beat the btcc head.

I'm going to have to side with str8e180 on this one.. Although, I promise I am not criticizing your decision because in the end it is YOUR build and not ours. Your ports do look massive when compared to factory de ports, but there is no way you can truthfully say that a ve wont out-perform the btcc head. The ve is the be all, end all for the sr20, hands down. Not only are the ports larger than the btcc's in stock fashion, but variable lift and valve timing make it even more amazing. You could do all that nice porting to the ve head just as you have for the btcc. The shaft mounted rockers are the best design for the sr20 by far. No matter what you do you will have problems with the rockers un-mounting themselves at high rpm. A dual guide shim setup is the next best thing, but still it doesn't compete with the ve head, which Mazworx uses to rev out 13k rpm.

I love this build and I think it will shake the earth when it hits the track, but there is no denying the ve head's performance despite the rarity of the btcc head. This build will be different and I applaud that. I look forward to seeing the finished product. It is on a completely different level compared to most of Zilvia's builds. Keep up the hard work!

[STR8E180]

I'm going to have to side with str8e180 on this one.. Although, I promise I am not criticizing your decision because in the end it is YOUR build and not ours. Your ports do look massive when compared to factory de ports, but there is no way you can truthfully say that a ve wont out-perform the btcc head. The ve is the be all, end all for the sr20, hands down. Not only are the ports larger than the btcc's in stock fashion, but variable lift and valve timing make it even more amazing. You could do all that nice porting to the ve head just as you have for the btcc. The shaft mounted rockers are the best design for the sr20 by far. No matter what you do you will have problems with the rockers un-mounting themselves at high rpm. A dual guide shim setup is the next best thing, but still it doesn't compete with the ve head, which Mazworx uses to rev out 13k rpm.

I love this build and I think it will shake the earth when it hits the track, but there is no denying the ve head's performance despite the rarity of the btcc head. This build will be different and I applaud that. I look forward to seeing the finished product. It is on a completely different level compared to most of Zilvia's builds. Keep up the hard work!

Well said mate
That's exactly my point

[Teigen]

Point is that I don't even care a little if XXXXX runs low 4 secs or xxxxxx runs low 5 sec with a billet VE head, i'm building

I'm not building this car for any specific class or racing series, Will do some timeattack but still want to maybe try other things.

I know VE is a good head and that it performs well, If i wanted one I would already had one. Thing is, I want this car to be different from everything else.

When you think of a 200sx/240sx/S14 within racing/motorsports, the picture is a sliding driftcar. Here in Norway, I have never seen a Grip/timeattack Silvia IRL all those years, so thats why I bought it, make a grip car be different.

When tinking of SR2X engines and tuning, everyone does a VE swap, I thought "hey, I'm gonna do it different"


So what is more different than a GRIP Silvia with a DE head ? At least here where I live its nothing I've ever seen.

you can call me a sick fuck with a disturbed brain but I like doing things different and spending much effort to even the smallest piece of the car.

I could probably sell just the BTCC Magnesium Valvecover itself to a museum or collector and buy a complete VE head for the money I could get for it.






Last update pic lol http://s2.postimage.org/q66n44nhl/gold.jpg

58mm port, still having clearance to waterports etc
and btw the btcc primeras did up to 10500 rpm and didnt have any special rocker arm troubles, + the DE sr20 won the total BTCC in the late 90s.
And please don't doubt me on this, this thing I know


Peace

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Keep updating this thread. It's just guys on this forum they nitpick and criticize.

[Imarvin240]

I agree, keep the updates coming! Most of the haters are just people who can't even afford to do a proper build...so they hate on people who can. keep updating for the guys like us that actually like to see new and extreme things being done!

[smoked240]

Keep that valvecover!! Don't listen to those jagaloons man, run the btcc head. There is a reason most people go with the ve head, since there are only what 12 btcc's left? I tell ya what, if I was building an sr, I would choose that same head. No questions asked. Awesome build so far man! Keep up the work!

[ForeignMuscle]

Hey me and str8e180 both agree'd that it was different and that it was a great build. The ONLY thing that was criticized was you saying it was better than a VE head. I personally told you I loved the build and how different it was.

If you just lost motivation for the build because someone said that a ve head would have been better then you should give your wrenches away for good. Get a grip man. It's a fucking forum.

I thought you were a good sport, but if you wanna whine and cry just have them delete it. No room for people getting all butt hurt around here.

[STR8E180]

Mate u seriously need to relax it up a bit aye
Why are you gettin all upset for ?
No one is hating on your build just because I said a ve head is better then a btcc head does not mean I'm hating I'm just stating fact
Sorry not every one is yes men some people might actually want to tell you the truth
It's the truth and if u can't handle the truth then Internet forums arnt for you
I love the fact your doing some thing different it keeps your build interesting but don't go saying your btcc cylinder head is better then a ve head when clearly it isn't and if u think it is then you need to do your research

All I was doing was correcting what you throught was right
Like I said before I love the fact your doing some thing different


I was trying to work out why you were doing all this when There was a better option out there and i now know why its to be different
If that's what u want that's fine
Some people build cars to be different there's nothing wrong with that

[hobbs]

don't go saying your btcc cylinder head is better then a ve head when clearly it isn't and if u think it is then you need to do your research

Because you've laid out what proof.....



Oh wait.

[STR8E180]

Because you've laid out what proof.....



Oh wait.
Shaft mounted rocker arms
Standard ports flowing 300cfm in standard form I know of billet aftermarket heads that don't even do that
VVL

What's a btcc cylinder head got ?
No VVL, it doesn't even have VTC, no shaft mounted rocker arms, ports are clearly smaller
It's not hard to work out which is the better cylinder head

The ve head change The game for sr20's

Scorch s15 very impressive time attack circuit car which holds the record at 52 seconds around Tsukuba circuit track in Japan
Now take into account this rear wheel drive car is faster then 4 wheel drive cars

MCA s13 fastest rear wheel drive car at World time attack in Australia placing in at 3rd

There are 4 or 5 drag cars running in the 7 second bracket and micks Motorsports running in The 6 second bracket

All these cars run sr20's and what do they have In common they all use ve heads
Its the most responsive cylinder head due to its VVL and massive ports
It's the most reliable cylinder head due to its shaft mounted rocker arms

The amount of extra timing my engine took after the cylinder head conversion was amazing
My tuner said its more like tuning a Honda then a Nissan
My car makes 300kw on 10psi at 4000rpm how many sr20's do u know of that can do that ?

[bc.]

You realize none of what you just posted amounts to proof, right? Just because a certain drag car runs VE heads and makes a bunch of power doesn't mean shit because you have nothing BTCC to compare it to. And just because all those builders use VE doesn't make it better, maybe they just couldn't find a BTCC head because there are like 12 of them...

At this point I am not even picking sides, I just letting you know that you cannot argue anything about which head is better because you haven't seen both in action with similar spec'd motors. The fact that a new head was built at all when the VE was readily available should be proof enough for you to wait this build out and see what kind of numbers it makes.

\end bashing
please continue build thread :cool:

[hobbs]

Shaft mounted rocker arms
Standard ports flowing 300cfm in standard form I know of billet aftermarket heads that don't even do that
VVL

What's a btcc cylinder head got ?
No VVL, it doesn't even have VTC, no shaft mounted rocker arms, ports are clearly smaller
It's not hard to work out which is the better cylinder head

The ve head change The game for sr20's

Scorch s15 very impressive time attack circuit car which holds the record at 52 seconds around Tsukuba circuit track in Japan
Now take into account this rear wheel drive car is faster then 4 wheel drive cars

MCA s13 fastest rear wheel drive car at World time attack in Australia placing in at 3rd

There are 4 or 5 drag cars running in the 7 second bracket and micks Motorsports running in The 6 second bracket

All these cars run sr20's and what do they have In common they all use ve heads
Its the most responsive cylinder head due to its VVL and massive ports
It's the most reliable cylinder head due to its shaft mounted rocker arms

The amount of extra timing my engine took after the cylinder head conversion was amazing
My tuner said its more like tuning a Honda then a Nissan
My car makes 300kw on 10psi at 4000rpm how many sr20's do u know of that can do that ?

Proof. Let's see some REAL proof, let's see some side by side dyno's with the same setups, until then you have no proof to say the VE head is better than the BTCC head. Until you have some solid proof, gtfo.

[STR8E180]

Are u serious ?
One has shaft mounted rocker arms and the other one doesn't
One has VVL and The other one doesn't
It's not hard to work out which cylinder head is going to perform better

Shaft mounts rocker arms and VVL should already be enough to work out which one is the more reliable and more responsive cylinder head

That's enough proof for me

[jr_ss]

All this bickering could be solved by throwing the BTCC head on a flow bench that uses H2O.

As far as reliability in high horsepower setups, perhaps it would go to the VE for the reasons stated by Str8e180. It's all speculation until numbers are produced from the BTCC motor setup.

Teigen- relax man, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. This is the Internet and you need some thicker skin if you want to function on it.

[ForeignMuscle]

Hobbs, It's not proof. It's common sense.

I don't have to keep repeating what str8e180 said. No one is trying to trash the OP's thread. It was just friendly conversation until people started getting butt hurt and defensive. Go cry if you can't handle ideas different from your own.

Once again, I love this build. Sad that people are such little bitches that we all have to worship/criticize the same as the person next to us or people cry.

[91white_ka]

The morons in this thread need to shut up and stop comparing cheap factory cast heads to an actual race engine. Nobody cares what you people are saying, viewers are checkin out this thread to see something cool and rare with quality parts. Not to listen to some vaginas crying about how their everyday, ordinary crap compares to everything else.

[ForeignMuscle]

The morons in this thread need to shut up and stop comparing cheap factory cast heads to an actual race engine. Nobody cares what you people are saying, viewers are checkin out this thread to see something cool and rare with quality parts. Not to listen to some vaginas crying about how their everyday, ordinary crap compares to everything else.

Shut the fuck up. VVL head is real "everyday" huh? And both of the heads are "cheap, factory cast" from aluminum. Thank you for proving your stupidity. You have no knowledge of anything in this thread, but nice try. Keep looking at the pictures and dreaming...

[hobbs]

Are u serious ?
One has shaft mounted rocker arms and the other one doesn't
One has VVL and The other one doesn't
One has bigger ports compared to the other
It's not hard to work out which cylinder head is going to perform better

Shaft mounts rocker arms and VVL should already be enough to work out which one is the more reliable and more responsive cylinder head

That's enough proof for me

It seems your dyno graphs you posted are not showing up, you may want to re-post them.

Shut the fuck up. VVL head is real "everyday" huh? And both of the heads are "cheap, factory cast" from aluminum. Thank you for proving your stupidity. You have no knowledge of anything in this thread, but nice try. Keep looking at the pictures and dreaming...

Actually a VE is a everyday motor, you do have to remember outside of the N1/VET motors they came in a 3,100lb CVT equipped family sedan.

[ForeignMuscle]

You're right hobbs, it isn't rare like the btcc. Can't argue that. I don't want this guy running off because of all the nonsense anyways. The btcc head is awesome just because of what it is. Look forward to seeing some updates OP..

[STR8E180]

It seems your dyno graphs you posted are not showing up, you may want to re-post them.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/str8e180/IMG_1750.jpg

Precision 6262 .63 exhaust housing
Still a 2L

33psi
E85
8800 rpm
Standard cams

It actually made more power
Max the turbo out at 44psi and the engine made 621kw

[STR8E180]

Both of the heads are "cheap, factory cast" from aluminum. Thank you for proving your stupidity. You have no knowledge of anything in this thread,

LOL this thread was good conversation until every one started crying

[hobbs]

Maybe I missed it, BTCC head with the same setup, I know you have a dyno for that one aswell.

[STR8E180]

Flow charts taken from a modified P11 cylinder head

Sr20ve flow chart from modified cylinder head bigger valves and port work
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x35/deanweltner/mnadveheadflow.jpg

Sr20ve standard ports
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg221/dmcelso/VE%20Head%20with%20%20BIG%20valves/DSC_0008.jpg

Sr20ve modified with bigger valves and port work
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg221/dmcelso/VE%20Head%20with%20%20BIG%20valves/DSC03190-1.jpg

Keep in mind this is just flow
Nearly 400 cfm!!!
Still take into account the shaft mounted rocker arms and VVL

[STR8E180]

Geezz some people don't have any common sense

Anyways looking forward for updates and the finish product

[hobbs]

Geezz can't win when people don't have an common sense lol

You have zero proof on flow rates for the BTCC head, nor do you have a simular dyno graph with a BTCC head. Your points are moot.

[STR8E180]

You have zero proof on flow rates for the BTCC head, nor do you have a simular dyno graph with a BTCC head. Your points are moot.

Yeah righto mate your a true hero
Dunno why you had to get so defensive this was a good thread until cry babies got defensive

[hobbs]

Yeah righto mate your a true hero
Dunno why you had to get so defensive this was a good thread until cry babies got defensive

Not defensive at all, just pointing out that what you state is fact is purely just your opinion, you have no data to backup your claims that a VE head is better than a BTCC prepped head. Once you're able to provide some solid flow data or dyno graphs it will just remain your opinion.


I'm actually a big fan of the VE motor coming from the P chasis crowd but you treat this motor like it's god gift to humanity, theres a reason why Nissan spent thousands upon thousands of dollars on production and R&D on the BTCC primera and continued to use the DE and not the VE motor design.

[STR8E180]

, theres a reason why Nissan spent thousands upon thousands of dollars on production and R&D on the BTCC primera and continued to use the DE and not the VE motor design.

It might have some thing to do with restrictions in that form of motor sport it was used in


I'm actually a big fan of the VE motor coming from the P chasis crowd but you treat this motor like it's god gift to humanity,
I think it is gods gift to the sr20's

[hobbs]

It might have some thing to do with restrictions in that form of motor sport it was used in

Doubt those restrictions had anything to do with the use of VVL seeing as there were multipul teams using honda B series vtec motors.

Care to try again?

[STR8E180]

No conversions? I dunno I'm just guessing
I know I would rather have my rocker arms mounted on a shaft that's for sure
Dunno about overseas but here in group a racing we arnt allowed any conversions
Cars must run the exact same engine the car came from factory with but you are allowed to modify it as much as U like
But no force induction on cars that didnt come standard with force Induction

Other then that I'm all out of guesses I don't see why they wouldn't use a ve head over a btcc
I would love to know myself

Care to try again ? ---- no need to be a smart ass about it mate

[jr_ss]

You guys are arguing over stupid shit... The BTCC Janspeed head is not and was not available to the masses. Who gives a shit which one is better. This guy jumped on a chance of a lift time to own a rare, RACE proven head and is doing something with it, rather than putting it on a shelf. Quit shitting on his thread.

I would like to see flow bench numbers on the Janspeed head. Teigen, what year was your head pulled from? It seems that the 98-99' BTCC heads/motors were the golden ticket setup with the previous years being less powerful. They also switched the head around putting the intake side towards the front of the car and the exhaust exiting on the opposite side.

[bc.]

I imagine his head will have the intake in the back, right? Otherwise how would you get it to work in RWD??

hobbs and STR8E180, please stop arguing, you are gonna scare away the OP and nobody will get what they want.

[hobbs]

I imagine his head will have the intake in the back, right? Otherwise how would you get it to work in RWD??

hobbs and STR8E180, please stop arguing, you are gonna scare away the OP and nobody will get what they want.

Only the early BTCC primeras where reverse flow, from his pictures you can see that the intake ports are on the 'correct' side of the head.

[codyace]

Nice seeing the updates brother! Keep em coming!


However guys, something really needs to be addressed below. I can understand the positives and negatives being presented here, but there some glaringly obvious things that no one is addressing to those in the VE camp here. I do not think your comments are wrong STR8E, but there needs to be a more objective look at the situation on your end.

What's a btcc cylinder head got ?
No VVL, it doesn't even have VTC, no shaft mounted rocker arms, ports are clearly smaller
It's not hard to work out which is the better cylinder head

The valve train is generally more failsafe on the VVL setup, but in normal operation (ie: not misshifting, or over revvin) it (to me) isn't clear cut to work any better nor worse than the standard style head. Think of how many dopey owners drove SE-R's/NX's/ throughout the 10 years+ they were offered here, without issue (with many of them going 150K miles+!!)

Sure the shaft mount/roller setup is nice, but that system also came in COMMUTER type cars. Not race cars. So while the system in general is more robust (one can't deny the shaft mounted sytem), it will not stand heavy RPM abuse with a spring change. With that said there are many guys who ran DE heads to huge RPM for years without any issues too. Maybe not 13,000 rpm like you say some do, but those heads are far from stock as well, and IMO a bit unfair to compare them directly, especially to a head that has different guides and lifters undoubtedly as well (roller rocker engines having better lifters as it is).

Atop of that, I'm not sure how anyone can generally just say which head is better without seeing flow bench numbers on the two heads. And even with that said, a flow bench doesn't automatically mean it makes more power either, just that it can move more air. Bigger isn't better.



Scorch s15 very impressive time attack circuit car which holds the record at 52 seconds around Tsukuba circuit track in Japan
Now take into account this rear wheel drive car is faster then 4 wheel drive cars

Do you think the head makes the difference here, or the 700+whp that it is claimed to make? I'd find it hard to beleive that where that car makes power/powerband, that it's any different than a DE head at that point.


All these cars run sr20's and what do they have In common they all use ve heads
Its the most responsive cylinder head due to its VVL and massive ports

Ever think that they all use VE heads as they are more common and cheaper than a head only produced 34 times? I mean the pricepoint here has a TON of 'play' sort to speak here. If I was running a heavy duty drag car, I'd want something I can easily find a spare/replacement for, of which, a BTCC head is not.

[Road2Perfection]

You guys are arguing over stupid shit... The BTCC Janspeed head is not and was not available to the masses. Who gives a shit which one is better. This guy jumped on a chance of a lift time to own a rare, RACE proven head and is doing something with it, rather than putting it on a shelf. Quit shitting on his thread.

I would like to see flow bench numbers on the Janspeed head. Teigen, what year was your head pulled from? It seems that the 98-99' BTCC heads/motors were the golden ticket setup with the previous years being less powerful. They also switched the head around putting the intake side towards the front of the car and the exhaust exiting on the opposite side.

Read below, P10 BTCC
The P11 BTCC head had reversed intake side ports, I want that LHD car.. RHD design...
Master cylinder is right next to the turbo on LHD, enough of that.
The most successfull BTCC cars were the P11's, the main change was just switching side of ports, and thats the easiest way to differ the two, or the rockercover on this has SR20 written on it, flat on the top, the P11 was more round and no text on it, had Nissan Power written on the coilcover.

You realize none of what you just posted amounts to proof, right? Just because a certain drag car runs VE heads and makes a bunch of power doesn't mean shit because you have nothing BTCC to compare it to. And just because all those builders use VE doesn't make it better, maybe they just couldn't find a BTCC head because there are like 12 of them...

At this point I am not even picking sides, I just letting you know that you cannot argue anything about which head is better because you haven't seen both in action with similar spec'd motors. The fact that a new head was built at all when the VE was readily available should be proof enough for you to wait this build out and see what kind of numbers it makes.

\end bashing
please continue build thread :cool:

the VE head was not avaiable at the time of BTCC P10 ERA.
2ndly. BTCC does not allow VCT, VVL.
First introduction of this was in 1997, this BTCC head is ~1990-1995/96

The reason why VTEC, Nissan NEO VVL, VE and so on is completely absent in racing is cause VERY few manufactures have it, and it's a unfair advantage when it's patented and licence costs and all that.
They do not bend for Nissan and Honda vs the rest.

However, doesnt change how impressive this head is, ports MATCH what a VE head has, and I doubt any redtops, DE, other non VVL/VCT 2.2 engines will match it's performance.
that leaves us with the VE engine and FC20 (very unsure how honda's perform over 600 whp, but up to that it's for sure a breeze)?

VCT= Variable cam Timings.
VVL = Variable Valve Lift and Timing

VVL is VE and VCT is notchtop DE

[slideslidegnarslide]

Lol talking about vtec and vvl being good for racing? Are you guys dumb? Vtec isnt in racing because its to keep your car streetable and economical. Vtec and anything like it is to keep car economical and street able. You gain low end torque because your on a lower cam profile. But you'll never be in those Rpms in racing. Systems like this are only good because your car can be completely normal at idle and street driving but has a race profile cam for high rpm. That's why people eliminate vtec...... Race profile cam all the time. No one has ever heard of vtec killer cams. all you have to do is put in a cam that has the same profile as the lobe in vtec or other systems and bam, the system is useless. Because the gains of a normal cam are only seen in rpm that you'll never be in at the track. All you guys started a huge argument on this guys build thread for no reason. Who care if the head doesn't flow as much. He will still make way more power than any of us. This poor guy gets on the forums and blasted by people that have no proof of the claims they are making and clearly doesn't understand that vtec and systems like that are not for racing. They are for street cars. I don't care which head flows better at all. All I'm saying is vvl and systems like it have no place in racing and because they are pointless. Unless you want a street car. I'd love for this guy to come back and continue ONE OF THE NICEST BUILD THREADS ON ZILVIA but we can't handle that. Cause we need to cry about why some guy half way around the world didn't choose what head "you" wanted him to use. Oh boohoo

And actually guy above me they do allow vtec in a lot of forms of racing. Watch road racing. There's a class that the new si does really well in.

[Mannykiller]

Now this is just awesome!! Gotta love your inginuity and resourcefulness!!!! Excellent Job!!! keep it up!

[Teigen]

23.01.2013 Update:

Whats been done is no major things, rather the smaller things that often is the "time stealers" on a project, in order to make it perfect.

First thing I can tell about (already posted a picture) is that I painted the Valvecover Gold Wrinkle, which I found to be a nice contrast to a black whrinkle plenum and turbo.

http://s9.postimage.org/3q9vxy3y7/DSC_0187.jpg

About the plenum/ Air intake setup I will get back to that in a later post, but I can tell that it's going to be some customized stuff made to work together with my custom cams and the turbo.

Also I will run 2 sets of injectors, that make it a total of 8 fuel injectors.
This will be ran sequential and is truly only some "nazi" setup from my side to try to make a more stable low RPM as the cams isn't of the "Kind" type.

I am going to place the second fuelrail below the plenum, that would most likely be some ID2200 injectors, and the top fuelrail between the ports and ITB's is going to be some 740cc~ size injectors. This is going to be tight as the room for a second set of injectors is very limited. That is why I am placing them on the downside of the runners.

The plenum is based off a ex-WRC class A Nissan car which I got my hands on after 6 months of searching for it in the US. I do the aluminium welding and such myself so things go a little slow as I am the only person working on this project ( I dont trust others to touch my baby lol)


Another thing that actually took me more time then expected was to make a adjustable mount for the altenator.
http://s2.postimage.org/g8978tibt/DSC_0177_1.jpg

Made of aircraft steel ofc :)

Failed when making it as I forgot the more "plan" based mounting, I was thinking of using the same spot as used in the BTCC cars, the frostplug on the head. anyway it would just hit my Oilfilter which I forgot.
http://s2.postimage.org/5th9oi689/DSC_0182_1.jpg

Did a little polish and opened it and put some castrol grease inside and mounted it
http://s14.postimage.org/f7ikiovtd/DSC_0183_1.jpg


Besides this I got the holes drilled for my dual waterpump setup and they are now mounted, I forgot to take a picture but I will do that tomorrow.




Here is a picture of a Volvo 16v head that We are working on, this I'm placing on my brothers B230FK in his "retro" Volvo 240 car. Flowed pretty good for this head, ports are exactly 50mm <--> Welded som on the inside to make the curb better in the future this is also going to be close to 1000whp. http://s2.postimage.org/aawljw3d5/DSC_0175_1.jpg
http://s7.postimage.org/63phic563/DSC_0196_1.jpg





Here is a picture from before christmas when I check turbo clearance to bonnet/hood w/e proper english word would be :)
http://s14.postimage.org/wb3px661d/turbo_clearance.jpg


"and with that bombshell I say see you next time" or something (Topgear)

[91white_ka]

Shut the fuck up. VVL head is real "everyday" huh? And both of the heads are "cheap, factory cast" from aluminum. Thank you for proving your stupidity. You have no knowledge of anything in this thread, but nice try. Keep looking at the pictures and dreaming...

Fuck you sir, and your cries for attention. You aren't as cool as the guy with a piece of race history. Just get over it. Yes the vvl head is "everyday" anybody can buy one for cheap, or the whole motor for that matter. In fact there a whole neo motor sitting in my shop right now. By cheap factory casting I mean it's simply a stock head that is plentiful.

I don't know what the "looking at pictures" comment has to do with anything. Only difference is you are in here trying to convince everyone you know something and telling the op why he should build the car you like instead of what he would like.

To the op I enjoy seeing new stuff, keep up the good work. Sorry for the clutter in your thread.

[Teigen]

Was about writing an update now, but as the clock is 2 in the morning here, i*m gonna hit the bed, and to this update tomorrow morning.

Will be about rewelding the exhaust mani for Dual 44MM tial, Making the brace for the gearbox, rollcage, Sellholm Sequential gearbox and some other goodis, peace :)

[Teigen]

Here is yet another delayed update from past mods on the little Nissan baby





Been having a nice weekend @ the garage, sad thing is that I did a lot more work on my m8's cars then my own D': :wan:

I'm starting this update with what I have been doing to my Silvia.

The turbo manifold was made for a single 60mm wg, but I'm not into having that set-up. After a few mins spent talking with my airflow/dynamics mate the choice was a dual 44mm set-up. No larger work on the manifold to make this either, as it's a good twinscroll mani it already had outtake for WG @ both sides so i just cut the merge and inserted a new bend and also welded a plate over the opening where i cut the y-merge.

I've ordered 2 x Tial 44mm Watercooled WGs like this one
http://img0015.popscreencdn.com/106844461_blue-tial-mvr44-44mm-water-cooled-wastegate-v-band-v44-.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/dzlil5y71/DSC_0218.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/o0qcuhba5/DSC_0219.jpg

not done welding but when I am I will put of pictures of the manifold.


Another thing I finished to my car was the holding brace for the gearbox. Actually wasnt up for doing it but somehow I found motivation at 03 in the morning when I was about leaving for the night lol.

After some measurements and checking out some different solutions, I figured it would be the best to just work on the OEM gearbox brace. Used that as a sketch and reinforced it a lot and welded a new 4mm plate on top to drill new holes for the bolts from the TREMEC gearbox.

http://s4.postimage.org/jhipmpisd/DSC_0226.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/529zfakil/DSC_0227.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/93r2kyct9/DSC_0228.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/9oap1dvfh/DSC_0229.jpg

http://s4.postimage.org/xulccihjx/DSC_0231.jpg

I was lucky and drilled the holes and only missed with 1mm! Didn't use any measurement tools, just memorizing how it looked and got lucky lol.

MIG welded this brace as I dont have any gas for steel on the TIG welder, only Argon gas for aluminium. Weld looked ok to me even tho I would say welding aluminium is my "main"

http://s4.postimage.org/6vr4s7qsd/DSC_0239.jpg


___


Had to do some welding for my brother in his Oldschool Volvo 242 1978'. As the new engine is going to be about 800whp the old granny need some help in the rear end (lol), so I welded on some plates to make a "wattlink". I told him to clean and stip it down to the metal where i was about welding but he didn't care as he mostly gives a f*ck about things :P

http://s4.postimage.org/6e0kq3ql9/DSC_0241.jpg
http://s4.postimage.org/mz3ls0sbh/DSC_0240.jpg

Weld fuges got full of oil and rustprotecting coatings so it is looking really "nasty" :) Anyway, no holes in the weld so it will hold, but if it was my car I would never had anything looking nearly as ugly as this! :)



I also found a Sellholm MPG x-trac sequential gearbox from a Ford RS500 Cosworth, only used for 10 hours nice with a 400whp car so it's as good as new. Told my brother to buy it asap!
http://s4.postimage.org/49kt2recd/girkasse.jpg

Had to congratualte him to be the first of us to get a proper seq. gearbox! But I guess (and hope) He will have to congratulate me with being the fist one to reach a 1k whp hihi :fawk:

The gearbox is about 24k USD priced when new, got it for 13k so it was a real killerdeal! Guess who's automatically had to make a new gearbox brace and bearings :mad:

____



My mate here, who is a drifter asked me if he could have his car in my garage and here it is. 180sx with a 340whp SR20, some forged internals but stock cylinderhead/cams/intake and a t28bb turbo.

http://s4.postimage.org/ldsxdy7h9/DSC_0244.jpg

Going to be a fun drifiting car. At the moment I was asked to prepare it for SNowdriving @ Rudskogen racetrack in norway 16th of february, going to be fun :D

If I made the car ready I would get the most driving he promised :naughtyd:
things I have to do is:
Mount coilovers
Wire his Adaptronic
Mount Driftworks Knuckles
Mount Oilcooler and relocator
Make exhaust
Make Turbo inlet so airfilter is in front of car
Mount brake disks and calipers
Wire up the brake system (car is mostly stripped)
Mount gearbox
Mount gauges and instruments
Make a battary placement in the rear and wire the main electricity to alternator, starter etc
Weld a brace for fastening seats.
Woah! going to be a ruch but not inpossible :D
http://s4.postimage.org/d37464bx9/DSC_0250.jpg


http://s9.postimage.org/6l050hjj3/DSC_0253.jpg

Finishing off this update with a little picture from my car (which still needs some serious love)
http://s4.postimage.org/cmlwjoo65/DSC_0248.jpg

Peace!

[Mannykiller]

I chose to go with Adaptronics engine management as well!!! I'm building an Fd..but excited to make the switch from apexi power fc..to the Adaptronic!! Love your build by the way! looks awesome!

[Teigen]

I chose to go with Adaptronics engine management as well!!! I'm building an Fd..but excited to make the switch from apexi power fc..to the Adaptronic!! Love your build by the way! looks awesome!


Good to hear, altough I run Autronic I think adaptronic is a far better system than the PFC, Congrats mate, get the garbage out of your car :D

[Mannykiller]

haha.. you gotta give it to them for holding strong for the past 11 years though!!! Adaptronic is much better though!! =-) excited to see your car finished!

[Teigen]

haha.. you gotta give it to them for holding strong for the past 11 years though!!! Adaptronic is much better though!! =-) excited to see your car finished!

hehe yeah :)

Adaptronic is a far better and advanced ECU system, its one of the better there Is i've heard. For myself i've been into 4 Autronic installations and usage and cannot say anything else than great.

Thanks, i cannot wait myself! :)

UPDATE:



As many other's here are writing, things have been going very slow for me as well. Mainly because of other more important things and healt, as well as helping others with their cars.

A little thing I've been doing is having made a decision that I need a Cooling system for the gearbox. Some might say this in unnecessary but It will not do any damage either!

So I found a medium sized Oil cooler in my cooling shelf and thought it would be a good size, not too large or small.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_03121_zps13ca057e.jpg

The pump is a space S15 diff cooler pump, I guess it will be a nice pump, it isnt very heavy either and Hitachi usually is a good brand. It looks rusty but I'll spend some hours working on it and then paint and polish. Hopefully it will turn out good. Still not decided on if I am mounting the cooler behind the front wheel of the intake side, or flat with 2 small fans next to the gearbox. Also I could mount it in front but I dislike having too long oil lines, the longer the more vulnerable.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_03032_zps87a2e2e0.jpg


Just hooked on the new IC for my brothers Volvo 242, it's a quite large cooler.
630x350x101mm
Just hung it there to check how a even larger cooler would fit on my car. It will be very tight with anything larger but I will manage to squeeze some more in there ;) I was also thinking of having a ice-water cooling setup of the air, to make the compressed air even colder than the intake temperature. Anyway I dont have the money for it, nor place to have a cooling machine of the water or extra tank. + it would gain some more weight to my car.


Besides I've been helping a mate making a Intake for an old Volvo 8v turbo motor.

http://s11.postimage.org/tfq60x3v7/intake.jpg
Everything we machined/ fabricated. Only thing missing is welding it together, which buyer wanted to do himself to save some money.


Cheers!

Feel free to comment

[Teigen]

Mini update with some pics i found from sleeving my second sr20 block (rwd block) http://s11.postimage.org/7mg1o5nar/mms_img1226166068_1.jpg http://s7.postimage.org/kxwt2lx4b/mms_img398400973_1.jpg Current status Waiting for to arrive: Tein Coilovers (temporary) second set of Injectors second fuelrail Steelbraided hoses and AN fittings for the whole car

http://s18.postimage.org/tr5dcfch5/DSC_0314.jpg

[bc.]

wait, did you put those sleeves in yourself?

[rwtf]

dayum that thing is business.

[Teigen]

wait, did you put those sleeves in yourself?

No, unfortunately I does not have the machines myself so I had a mate doing it for me. I'll receive this block by this week most likely, then I'll make a nice picture of them both standing next to eachothers, as my extreme motor is now in pieces (read below)

dayum that thing is business.

Thanks you! I hope to make a remarkable power with a DET as everyone else uses the VE.


Update:

Since last time I have demounted the whole engine, as I have to ge tht e surface of the block re-surface( sorry does not find the proper english word for it) as the Darton dry sleeves have sunken 0,2 MM down. This happens as of temperatures up and down, as of the temperatures outside is sometimes -20 and inside the workshop a lot warmer. This is normal and the sleeves are also glued so it takes a while in some cases for this to dry properly.


http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0337_zps22f89c96.jpg


http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0339_zpsddecc0d0.jpg



It's sad that i had to do all this when the whole engine was about ready. Hopefully this is the last time its outside of the engine bay for a loooong time! :)

Spent a couple of hours working with the s15 diff pump I bought to use on the Tremec geabox cooling. Rust was pretty bad some places but after about an hour of abrasive blasting it turned out pretty nice and the rest I took by hand. after that I opened it and replaced all the sealings, added some castrol lubrication and checked the bearing inside. Tested and it worked perfect. Next thing I have to do is to decide a colour and paint it.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0343_zpsbf8f98df.jpg


Here are some more pics of my mates old Opel Kadett '79. Yesterday I checked the cylinder head thats being put on the B230 block.

Did a little polishing in the combustion chamber just because I love things looking good, even tho no one ever going to notice! and that it will be gone in 1 minute after running the engine haha

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0348_zps7f5c25f8.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0350_zpsa99cf100.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0347_zps59f6669b.jpg


That's one of the most extreme 8V cylinder head in my country. at low boost this car made 534 RW Newton at only 3400 RPM! and it just kept on until we had a 700rwhp

Done! http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0351_zps566431e9.jpg

Also I am finally done with this car I bought with a hazarded engine for a killerprice and hope to earn some money on it to get more parts for my car.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0354_zpsffe75edc.jpg


Cheers!

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0352_zpsed320001.jpg

[codyace]

love seeing the updates dude! That volvo engine setup is neat too for the Opel!

[Teigen]

love seeing the updates dude! That volvo engine setup is neat too for the Opel!

Thanks! I am sure this will be neat in my mates 900kg Opel :D

But everyone knows I'll be burning tires in circles around him in 150 km/h :D hehe Jk


of parts used on this machine!http://flash.eviziotvreviews.com/9.jpg

Thanks :)
Still waiting for the Tein Coilovers to arrive, f*cking mail system in Norway is horrible. Should been here a week ago.

Maybe I'll get the Transmission cooling setup done today and post some pics of it. Cheers

[Teigen]

hey :) i'll update this thread properly in a couple of hours, but for now i'll just put up a few teaser pics :)

Both of my ready and prepped Darton Sleeved blocks
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0413_zps4c49e200.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0414_zpse8e79255.jpg

latest sleeved block


Porting porting the blocks
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0398_zps51ffbe4d.jpg

and a little more work on the extreme head
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0420_zps448c2a36.jpg


back with more and text in a few hours!

[ANoLEN]

:bowdown: Sweet build! I'm sub'd

[boyou2]

Porting porting the blocks
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0398_zps51ffbe4d.jpg



Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it :bigok:

[bc.]

Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it :bigok:
did you guys match the ports on the head too?

[Willy077]

I also found a Sellholm MPG x-trac sequential gearbox from a Ford RS500 Cosworth, only used for 10 hours nice with a 400whp car so it's as good as new. Told my brother to buy it asap!
http://s4.postimage.org/49kt2recd/girkasse.jpg

Had to congratualte him to be the first of us to get a proper seq. gearbox! But I guess (and hope) He will have to congratulate me with being the fist one to reach a 1k whp hihi :fawk:

The gearbox is about 24k USD priced when new, got it for 13k so it was a real killerdeal! Guess who's automatically had to make a new gearbox brace and bearings :mad:


Actually price for Sellholm sequential gearbox is different:
"Hi Vitaly
Thank´s for your intrest in our transmisions.
Se atached info conserning the 2wd box.
A cpl box with leaver,indicatoretc is SEK 87000+Vat SEK
for the mst common boxes.
Led time 3-4 weeks.
Kind Regards Rikard Eliasson Sellholm Tuning AB"

According today's rate it's about 13400 USD
Same box from Drenth will be couple of grands more

And Xtrac are making totally different transmissions, your unit look like Sellholm/Drenth MPG one

[Teigen]

:bowdown: Sweet build! I'm sub'd

Thank you :kiss:

Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it :bigok:

Haha, I also mainly did it to smooth them out, so the water flows better. but in the en I began porting them a little, as i noticed my cylinder head gasket could handle 1 mm diameter larger size. Did this on both of the blocks :)

did you guys match the ports on the head too?

Yes, I did. Actually it's nothing much tho, its just to smooth out the leftovers/sandy surface from when the blocks/heads were casted :) It is nothing important before going over 600 hp. Anyway I got 2x electrical waterpumps from meziere that delivers 76 litres per minute, each so flow won't be a problem anyway :D

Actually price for Sellholm sequential gearbox is different:
"Hi Vitaly
Thank´s for your intrest in our transmisions.
Se atached info conserning the 2wd box.
A cpl box with leaver,indicatoretc is SEK 87000+Vat SEK
for the mst common boxes.
Led time 3-4 weeks.
Kind Regards Rikard Eliasson Sellholm Tuning AB"

According today's rate it's about 13400 USD
Same box from Drenth will be couple of grands more

And Xtrac are making totally different transmissions, your unit look like Sellholm/Drenth MPG one

Yes sorry about that, I didn't check over the currency, just based it off some "wild guess", my bad. I also meant that the shifting system outside the gearbox if x-trac. Not the gearbox itself :)

But then again I must ask you, did you come to this build thread only to ask this? :P


________________________________

Photobucket trolled me so I could not log in and into my albums to get the codes for the images so the update had to wait..
Update:


So, the block that originally was in the car has been sleeved and bored to a 90mm diameter, making it a 2,2 litre with OEM stroke. I do not want to stroke any more than this, as it would limit my revving of higher RPM's. the turbo I am having ATM will not start spooling before the 5500 rpm mark, at least not notable. Later this season, depending on the economics, I will have a fully custom built turbo made for my specific engine, by a dude in Sweden.


Also had both blocks line drilled so I can have a custom bearing for the crankshafts with 0,04 mm clearance.



As for porting the waterports in the block, this is how it turned out.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0399_zpsc9461e4a.jpg

the original waterpump housing/mount on the SR20 blocks have a pretty small clearance stock. specially on the RWD sr20 blocks, the areal inside for the water to pass is even smaller than the fwd blocks, the rwd blocks have a 45% smaller areal inside, than the size of the inlet of the block. Here you can see the little "wall" http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0402_zps2a514b9e.jpg

Note: if you are going to rund the OEM mechanical waterpump this can not be removed, but if you use electrical waterpump(s) like me this is a rather good thing to do.

This is how it starts to look after some work

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0403_zpsc61faadb.jpg

after this picture was taken I spent 20 minutes on each block with sandpaper by hand to get it as smooth as possible, used a very tiny diamond grinder attached to my Dremel in where the sandpaper was not getting

this is the inlet of the RWD block,before and after I removed about 5mm of material
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0400_zpsd80c50c6.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0405_zps73333ac8.jpg

Now, the water have one less obstacle to pass in order to get into the block :)

About the cylinder head, I finally got the custom Supertech titan valves, and had them mounted. All I can say is that I really look forward to start that motor, I think it's going to be a very very neat DET :)

I got some nasty plans for the other block, but that will be a project of the future.

Tubeframed, Twincharged, methanol injected? o.O

Woops only thinking loud :)

Peace!


http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0419_zps451926de.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0396_zps97b46e81.jpg

[Mannykiller]

lol^ Fondu pot^^

[Extreme Dimensions]

lol^ Fondu pot^^

LMFAO! right!?

[Teigen]

lol^ Fondu pot^^







LMFAO! right!?

Haha :D

Anyone need a perfect in Shape s13 rear plate???


Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2

[boyou2]

Haha, I also mainly did it to smooth them out, so the water flows better. but in the end I began porting them a little, as i noticed my cylinder head gasket could handle 1 mm diameter larger size. Did this on both of the blocks :)


that's what I noticed, pull the HG on the block, draw what I've had to retire, and done the same on the head.

[Teigen]

that's what I noticed, pull the HG on the block, draw what I've had to retire, and done the same on the head.

Yep. Same Method as I did =)

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2

[Teigen]

Time for a sneakypeaky update or something :)

Running low on money lately as things are not for free and I have to save up for the materials and uniballs to make the suspension bars, arms and such out of, + I need to buy brakes and a ton of steel to make a custom exhaust :(

for those of you who have read the entire thread you probably remember my idea of making the switcpanel inside the midconsole. anyway, here is a link to the post (http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/485782-turbocharged-btcc-sr20-1000bhp.html#post5068161)

Have been working to make it done, as it's just been laying around getting scratched and ugly while I have been working with the rest of the car.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0474_zpsec19d1b8.jpg

Began making an opening for the wires to run forward to the Autronic for things like launccontrol, anitlag, waterpumps, fans, gearbox oil pump, diff oilpump and such.

the electrical small saw have found a nice hiding spot, it's nowhere to find! lol

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0476_zpsea7c5d29.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0485_zpsc4ed3bb8.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0486_zps309015ca.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0487_zps7cd01f96.jpg


Hand filed the things, and will of course put a nice listing on the opening for the cables. Also decided to put the mainswitch of the battery connection there, also here I will put the Wilwood valve that I can set the % of brakes rear, or turn it all off if I want ;)


It's been a hard decision if I should have a cage or not, I was worried for that the cage would kill the entire sleeper look of the car if it was too visible. It's actually been a discussion for several months, since September or so I think. All my mates have been telling me to give shit about the sleeper bullshit and get a cage in so I wont be handicapped the rest of my life if I crash the car or something :hey: lol

So the situation changed pretty hardcore, I went from not wanting to have a cage to suddenly own 2 o.O

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0461_zps86123c2e.jpg

Both the cages I took out of 2 imported S14 circuit/timeattack cars and I have to say the welding is very sick! it's soo smooth it looks like a mass production robot welder made it :D

one of the cages says Club Mans
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0462_zpsb12e0030.jpg


after about 1 hour of hard work, hammering and pushing the cage was in, I actually only wanted to test fit it but the cage now sits so stiff into the car that I don't think I want to do all the working removing it again for painting :P
The cage is fitting extremely good! It's soo tight against the roof, the headspace in the car is still very good, you don't have to tilt your head while wearing a helmet like in some other cages.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0481_zps8c9be01a.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0480_zps803df048.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0479_zps46dfc1d7.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0482_zps4cbc125f.jpg


Another thing i have been waiting for is the Russel special 30x1,5mm metric to AN16 fitting for my valvecover! I just laid it upon last night to see how the colors would match, looks ok to me!

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0477_zps891e3970.jpg

from the catchtank I will do a vacuum source from the exhaust to maintain a constant vacuum in the head, it can give you a few more hp, like a dry sump system.




Painted the Second sleeved SR20 block of mine,
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0423_zps14750283.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0425_zps095d9f46.jpg



http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0437_zps826d36f5.jpg LOL !

Also had the headlights mounted along with some other pieces to the front
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0457_zps7696c80a.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0458_zpsab1b0bb5.jpg



Mounted the block into the car including the gearbox and the new gearbox brace, now I can take the measurements of making new motor mounts in solid aluminium.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0459_zps51c59832.jpg



Dont ask me why, this just happend to join me after I picked up the cages and 3 spare cylinderheads
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0483_zps98937fb1.jpg


The 3 spare cylinder heads I bought to put into the bandsaw and see how all the ports are and such. Good to have if i want to do some porting in the future.
heads are S13 SR20 redtop, Sunny Highport DE head and a S14 blacktop SR head


Cheers!

[Mikester]

This is some absolutely amazing stuff!

[Teigen]

This is some absolutely amazing stuff!

Thanks mate :) I'm glad you like it

your S13 build is one of the very few s13 builds i like, generally dislike the S13

[idahotuner]

badass build, i have heard about carton sleeves dropping, i have a 2.2 also, but had mazworxs do the porting and oil grooving and installation of the sleeves in the block.

[Big Zee]

so did you build a block ? or is that a different straight 6 ?

[Teigen]

badass build, i have heard about carton sleeves dropping, i have a 2.2 also, but had mazworxs do the porting and oil grooving and installation of the sleeves in the block.

Thanks!
Yeah, it happens under temperature chaning. Like me, I had my block stored warm inside a shop, then i trnasported it in 30- celcius (thats damn cold!) to my garage and noticed the sleeves had sunken a bit. But nothing more than 0,1 mm.
Fixed by put it to level in a machine (sorry, idk english word for it, planning?)

so did you build a block ? or is that a different straight 6 ?

No, thats just a 2jz block with CP pistons I happened to buy while picking up my rollcages :)

Thanks for giving me the idea for when I'm rich, Billet SR30 straight 6 :D hehe

[goodies]

looking good

[Teigen]

looking good

Thank you very much!
I hope the Zilvia readers enjoy, it's a one of a kind build I think

[Teigen]

Evening

Replaced the rollcage I fitted with a pretty similar one, just that the new one is branded Cusco :)

Done some work to the midconsole:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0486_zps723bc021.jpg

The midconsole is so scratched and Ugly looking cause of the other guys on the workshop so I am thinking about getting a new one, IMO looks like shit.

I will also place the wilwood brackefluid valve there, so it is eazy to I.E turn off the rear brakes, in case of some Emergency rubberburning! :)


About a month ago I bought these used Japspeed rear adjustable lower arms, but they were ugly looking in paint and got a cosmetic rust on the outer Nuts.
Started by demounting them and remove the bearings/uniballs as I don't trust the japspeed team (I am replacing these with custom ones for industrial usage, takes more beating before they fell out)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0477_zpsed9e18f5.jpg

Put it all into the Abrasive blasting cabinette, the blue paint really was hard to remove so I just took the outer layer and matted them. Washed the main arms really good in a highly acid bath :D Grinded down the welds and rewelded some with the TIG, then plasted them again and washed and heated in the oven @ 200 degrees celcius for about 15 minutes. hung them up for painting and painted them while hot so the paint really sticks and does not scratch off so easy. did 6 layers of Black matte and then took about 4 layers of Clear lacquer

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0481_zps26d5d4ec.jpg

with and without clear lacquer

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0483_zps8d5eaf3a.jpg
Wanted some bling so painted the bearing tip with anodized powder aluminium and clear lacquer.

Gonna rename these from Japspeed to "ATS (facebook.com/AlmostTopSecret) rear lower arms" ;)

Pretty happy with the result. front arms will be made in Chromonoly steel, it's quite expensive but when hitting a small rock in 300 km/t I don't want shit to fell off on the steering wheels!


Also bought some barely used Yokohama Advan slicks. New ones is too expensive for me at this point if I want to drive the car this year so this have to do.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0489_zps089e8a53.jpg

2 x 250/650R18 for the front
2 x 280/680R18 for the rear

They are still soft and came from a Japanese timeattack car that was imported here a month ago. When it rains I will be using Yokohama Advan A048
295/45/R18 for the rear
265/45/R18 for the front

as the A048 helds for a little longer than the R888.

Also picked up this Front adjustable tower brace which was brand new, came with the Japanese Timeattack S15. Hoping for this shit to help stiffen the car a bit, 300 KM/H should be fine

1-11 of August this car, along with a few of my mates cars will be driving the Nurburgring, Circuit de Spa and the Hockenheimring
I hope that I can have some fun there!


Peace, and have a nice Saturday morning/evening W/E timezone you are in :)


Cheers!

Ice Cube - Why We Thugs - YouTube (http://youtu.be/-F41m_ywC0Y) :snoop:

[Teigen]

Morning.



Happy for me, I got help froma friend the last couple days so I have been able to save some time to get the rollcage fitted with the interior and the mounting.

As explained earlier I am relocating the fusebox that is factory mounted in the engine bay. This is because I want an engine bay that is almost free of any cables or pieces that can be relocated. Like Jr_ss I hav decided to move the whole fusebox into the trunk, but I have not mounted it yet, just plaid it there for later. Plan it to weld a custom fusebox in aluminium that looks a bit more sexy than the OEM one which I have cut into pieces lol.


So in case to do this, one needs cables, quite a lot actually too. This is where an S13 chassis for cheap is nice to find! (thanks to MesS)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0485_zps5631a545.jpg

This chassis got an almost complete electrical wiring loom, wnad whats better than that? Now I got all the cables with almost the exact same colors and dots on the wires, so much better than doing it all with 6 colors that i had bought.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0487_zpsd25c89c4.jpg

time for some hacking!
It was actually mindblowing to see all the junk and black electrical tape that was used on an entire loom.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0493_zps69825c54.jpg

Was like 10 kg and 50 litres of garbage haha :D

Now it was just doing thishttp://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0515_zpsee589c42.jpg

to 30 wires, x 2 :D I'm glad my mate did that, so I could focus on the rollcage :D



Started making holes and a brace for the B-pillar/ mid piece of the rollcage.
Actually, it got some real JDM rust coming straight from Japan, probably should keep that in a box lol :D

Of course the entire cage will be grinded down and repainted with plastidip or something. I am just not doing that before i got the mountings ready, to avoid scratching it when it is painted. Made 6 plates for the 6 points of the cage. made in 3,5mm stainless, then painted a couple layers with Hammerite.

mid
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0512_zps05aafd4a.jpg

front
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0510_zps4f75cbc8.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0511_zps55c64257.jpg


and the rear
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0483_zpscc69d370.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0519_zps2f8e94aa.jpg

The holes I cut for the rear bar got quite displaced, it wasn't easy finding out where to exactly place the cut ://// Guess I'll do a big fatass listing to make it look a little nicer, maybe even buying a new one and make a cleaner cut now as I know where the bar will be placed

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0500_zpsa1f05ccf.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0503_zpsbc952dc2.jpg



Basically everything looks like hell at the garage, but it the way it goes when doing all this electrical work. Will do a biiiig cleanup when done with the relocating of the fusebox.

To be continued

Peace :snoop::snoop::snoop:

[Road2Perfection]

Soldering all this and it's done, we only need some kind of sexy fusebox instead of the fatty thats in the engine bay stock, which is just pure overkill after everything we've removed..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tx3bA3RYd-U/UUgvL7Li0WI/AAAAAAAADLk/ee0nst77jow/s912/IMG_20130318_210819.jpg

[ill.]

If you're gunna run this thing anywhere near low, you'll want to flip those cage bolts the other way round, so you don't gouge your tires, or scrape the ground with them!

Made that mistake before.

[Teigen]

If you're gunna run this thing anywhere near low, you'll want to flip those cage bolts the other way round, so you don't gouge your tires, or scrape the ground with them!

Made that mistake before.


Yeah I know, but thanks anyway. I havent cutted the bolts yet as I most likely will use some hardened Unbraco instead which is shorter.

Cheers

[Teigen]

Micro update.

Took the main tower plates off of the cusco strut as the painted red color was not fitting in my engine bay, looked like shit with red in there, even Cusco blue would been better, but I removed all the paint with sand.

here is how the contrast was, red versus the FN2 color in the bay
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0488_zps106b66ff.jpg

Demounted

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0537_zps836e4d74.jpg

After stripping off the paint and adding the special Wrinkle colour, it was time for some baking!

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0538_zps85c0b087.jpg

after about an hour at 93 degrees celcius, dinner was served.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0539_zpsa3c865a6.jpg

Closeup
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0540_zps6345e670.jpg


Didn't have time for it today but having the gold coated tomorrow, so it looks the same as my rocker cover:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0437_zps826d36f5.jpg



Cheers!

[codyace]

The china arms are usually poorly powdercoated, which is undoubtedly why you had issues with the blast cabinent removing them. It's nasty stuff!

[Teigen]

The china arms are usually poorly powdercoated, which is undoubtedly why you had issues with the blast cabinent removing them. It's nasty stuff!

Well most of the paint went off in the cabinet? first the ugle red then the blu underneat, isn't Cusco japanese? to bar got a aluminium cusco emblem on it

Nice seeing you still looks into this build :) I think I have to get a BOV and Apexi PFC to get some more response here on the forum ;)

[projectkouki]

Great build bro! Keep it coming!

[Teigen]

Great build bro! Keep it coming!

Thanks mate, maybe dat be daint should come over and fab lhd on a s15 hehe ;-)

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2

[projectkouki]

Thanks mate, maybe dat be daint should come over and fab lhd on a s15 hehe ;-)

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2
Hahaha we can make that happen!

[codyace]

Well most of the paint went off in the cabinet? first the ugle red then the blu underneat, isn't Cusco japanese? to bar got a aluminium cusco emblem on it

Nice seeing you still looks into this build :) I think I have to get a BOV and Apexi PFC to get some more response here on the forum ;)

Ah I missed that they were Cusco, yes they are Japanese for sure.

Yea that powdercoat is funny to remove. YOu can use Permetex Gasket remover to get it off too.

[Teigen]

Ah I missed that they were Cusco, yes they are Japanese for sure.

Yea that powdercoat is funny to remove. YOu can use Permetex Gasket remover to get it off too.


Aha, thanks for the tip, I'll use it next time. Think I spent an hour or more in the cabinet with a 100 litres aircompressor :P

More updates in about 24 hours :)

[idahotuner]

i use to run a sand blasting shop, and we blast wine barrel racks, to have them re powder coated, its crazy how well it can stick, but peel at the same time

[Teigen]

i use to run a sand blasting shop, and we blast wine barrel racks, to have them re powder coated, its crazy how well it can stick, but peel at the same time


yeah, exactly same as i have experienced, sticks more than glue but also can peel off like old paint on wood after some time

[Teigen]

Spontanious decided to place the radiator in the rear.

Positive:

Better cooling
Better wheight balance
More space in engine bay
More flow trough the intercooler


Negative

Noisy
Could be fatal if one of the lines gets a rift
More cost to a build that have already ruined me ;)



http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0599_zpsea423de9.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0613_zps29ffb692.jpg




Also have to get the air out of the trunk, so this was the best thing to do
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0620_zpsca809595.jpg

after
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0621_zpsaddb9311.jpg

this is how it looks from the inside
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0616_zps7fb8da5f.jpg

Made and welded in some braces to mount the radiator to, and this was the best position. I didn't want it standing vertically as it would look so ugly haha. Plan is to make either a Lexan or carbon fibre duct for the air to get out.

Also need to make everything look nice as well! It's only half done yet.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0644_zps9ed4e387.jpg


I could not take any more pictures of the cylinder head, as it is in another garage for fixing a intake valve leak in cyl. 2

Hoping to rebuild the motor in the coming 2 weeks, depending on how much time I got for it. The other garage wich is "dust free" is about 2 hours of driving from here :P


More updates to come

adding a few random pics :

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0334_zps3e07aa69.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0337_zps22f89c96.jpg



http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/bay1_zpsef4374a4.jpg




http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0665_zps7fdbb8c0.jpg

Fres beginning of a new day, whats better than an entire Sunday at the garage? ;)

First step I had in mind was getting the engine lowered and into the right position!

Found the upper oilpan, lifted the block out of the car and put on the upper oilpan and mounted it back to the gearbox.
at first I got it about 1 cm lowered, sitting about 2cm above the steering.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0667_zps50f3c57d.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0669_zpsb462e6cc.jpg


Took the jack, a small plank and place it underneat of the front of the oilpan.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0682_zps1b364816.jpg

lowered it so it laid on the steering, than raised it by 1,5mm
Now it's about to get tight!
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0672_zps133b03c9.jpg

Now its about 30mm lower than originally mounted by Nissan!


Custom bellhousing, cut it off the primera gearbox.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0678_zps53480698.jpg


About the CAS, I took the one who came with the engine and cut off the plastic cover from it, to see whats inside
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0687_zps4eeff45a.jpg


Took a spare 54c cylinder head and lait it ontop of the block to check how things would mount
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0691_zpscd282859.jpg

I also had to measure how low the engine now sits the ground, 61cm on the spot!
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0722_zps7bc70179.jpg
To do this I just slammed on some coilovers in the front and lower arms + Knucles and put some wheels on in the front, and laid it on some planks in the rear
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0723_zps8ca1ffd6.jpg

Oilpan - "How low can your SR20 go?"
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0725_zps28bf206f.jpg
Also mounted some more things into the enginebay, to see how it will look when done.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0735_zps680e4a1a.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0739_zps6960af87.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0744_zpsf3913bc0.jpg

Tires that I plan to run. Yokohama Advan. 250 in front, 280 rear
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0746_zpsdd69a27f.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0751_zps23491af1.jpg
Have to make a downpipe and exhaust!!
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0740_zpsc9169778.jpg

About 10mm of clearance, but I didn't realise the cylinder head was not placed right at the moment, So I was glad that it seemed to fit! ;/

Opened the CAS
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0706_zps605b5487.jpg
the Autronic can read this plate, it got like 350 tooth or something, but It would not be the best.
Luckily for me, I already had a special made Autronic trigger plate for the SR20 Cas =D

Got the head on spot later, showed about 1mm clearance! :(
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0742_zps90fccd41.jpg
So, plan is to cut away the piece that hits the firewall. It is no point keeping it anymore anyway.. :)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0743_zps747b0174.jpg
The scratces above the paint, its from how far up the engine was originalle sitting, when I started checking how the CAS would fit many weeks ago, surely i have gotten it lowered!



Pizza is needed when we stay here all day!No worries, car needs to be repainted anyway though :) http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0696_zpse6978f43.jpg
Custom motor mountshttp://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0694_zpsb7ffb5b1.jpg



I also visited my M8's garage today. He is an experte when it comes to cylinder heads! He is a Ingeniour working at the Kongsberg Aero group facility, working with Air flow in engines. When I first saw the BTCC head he literally fingered it and smiled :D

Took a snap of the head, laying there on one of his benches.
Note the combustin chamber is machined all out for 90mm bore with not much Squish.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0710_zps098aba3b.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0730_zps4187c2c3.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0731_zpse0d0523b.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0732_zpsa8af775d.jpg

We have talked about the valvesizes. I could insert 2mm Ø larger valves on the exhaust, and 1mm Ø larger intake, but if I do that they would be in touch when they are closed, and it could cause failure.

Also made the upper radiator mounts!
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0698_zps907ed652.jpg

For the request:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0734_zpsc8a37140.jpg

totally knifed and HUGE. It cannot even be compared to a normal SR20 head ports... About 55mm <->


I know the garage looks like a Hobo nest! :O That is because of a lot of people dropping by to see how it looks and things get super messy. Have to do a major cleanup soon!!


Good night :)

[projectkouki]

Awesome progress man!

[Teigen]

Awesome progress man!


Thank you very much! I was quite impressed about myself, that I did all that in about 10 hours.

[bc.]

You making a skid-plate to protect that oil pan area? I would be worried if it was my motor.

[greenwood]

such a legit build. why solder like that. :goyou:

[Teigen]

You making a skid-plate to protect that oil pan area? I would be worried if it was my motor.

Yeah of course :-) I just forgot to write it. Need some protection against the curbs etc.



Will try to stay off the curbs, at least the

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2

[Mikester]

This is amazing stuff- can't wait to hear what this thing is going to sound like!

Make sure to put a screen over the turbine to keep small animals and children from getting sucked in ;)

[onehundredoctane]

Wow. Those ports make my SR20DET head looks like a chump.

[Teigen]

This is amazing stuff- can't wait to hear what this thing is going to sound like!

Make sure to put a screen over the turbine to keep small animals and children from getting sucked in ;)

Thank you very much!

Well I can't wait myself. The crankshaft is now done and I am going to drive and pick it up either today or tomorrow. Also te new custom rod bearings with no holes in them so it will handle high pressure and much rpm without Oilfilm divinding, making metal to metal.

I will try my best to avoid sucking that in haha :D
Wow. Those ports make my SR20DET head looks like a chump.

Haha, no worries my good man. The stock SR20det blacktop head flowes upto 500 bhp unported. The ports in this head is very huge, 55mm wide. As seen in a picture in this thread I can insert my Visa debet into it, and the card is 55,5 mm wide or something.


Hoping to make an exhaust that works well. Been studying how the Ferraris etc make the exhaust sound like that their turboed cars sound like N/A.

Also buying a valve to quickly swap the WG pipes open or into downpipe.
Problem is 100 DB is max for Norwegian racetracks :confused: :confused:

[Slidingmonkey]

Subscribed!

[Mikester]

90-100mm piping, as few bends as possible and a flowy resonator or two in there might keep the noise down. Not sure though- that's a helluva lot of power to try to keep quiet=)

Is this going to be a drag or circuit car? Sorry if you already posted that somewhere- I was too hypnotized by the insanity of the build lol

[Teigen]

Subscribed!

Glad to hear! :)

90-100mm piping, as few bends as possible and a flowy resonator or two in there might keep the noise down. Not sure though- that's a helluva lot of power to try to keep quiet=)

Is this going to be a drag or circuit car? Sorry if you already posted that somewhere- I was too hypnotized by the insanity of the build lol


Yeah, Going to make the dp 4".
At first the plan was having a cool streetcar for summer usage
then all this happened the past year and a half

I think it's being a timeattack/circuit car without any special licence atm.
Also the local SX club will arrange some dragracing in the meetings and such and I've got quite a few already asking me to race them in a drag haha.

Main purpose is to go fast around the track, and not sideways.
I mainy bought a SX as I am tired of seeing them all just go sideways haha, so I want to make a difference. I know the Silvia got potentional.
Next year I got some special plans of a tubeframe silvia, inspired by gt300 and gt500 class, just even wider.

Posting update tomorrow
Cheers

[Teigen]

such a legit build. why solder like that. :goyou:

Thanks :)

What does solder mean?

Sorry, English is not my spoken language :(

[Mikester]

What does solder mean?

Sorry, English is not my spoken language :(

No problem- Engelsken din er bedre enn mour Norsk

solder = ledning loddetinn... (In case I didn't say it correctly- connecting the wires with the melted metal stuff) :D

I thought solder was an odd choice as well. I don't like how rigid it gets... I prefer splices- not the cheap ones... but the aircraft-grade splices with the barrel connectors & environmental sleeves.

[Teigen]

No problem- Engelsken din er bedre enn mour Norsk

solder = ledning loddetinn... (In case I didn't say it correctly- connecting the wires with the melted metal stuff) :D

I thought solder was an odd choice as well. I don't like how rigid it gets... I prefer splices- not the cheap ones... but the aircraft-grade splices with the barrel connectors & environmental sleeves.

:bigok: Do you speak Norwegian, or did you use google? haha :D

Aha ok, I kind of tought so :)

Well the guy doing the job is very skilled with it, he is building computers and such. I would have used some filty and good connectors if I had, but at the time I don't + I have no sponsors besides my second spareblock I got sleeved and such for 1/3 price. Running so low on cash that I can't even remember when I was buying anything than work clothes last time :bigok:

[Mikester]

^^ I do pick up other languages quite well, but in this case, I blame Google Translate for whatever I said incorrectly :) Aside from English, I can speak German and Farci quite well... and some Spanish.

Back to your build...

Hey man, you are saving money and still creating a TOTALLY EXTREME car- In the big picture, as long as the wires are secure; you are good to go~

[Teigen]

^^ I do pick up other languages quite well, but in this case, I blame Google Translate for whatever I said incorrectly :) Aside from English, I can speak German and Farci quite well... and some Spanish.

Back to your build...

Hey man, you are saving money and still creating a TOTALLY EXTREME car- In the big picture, as long as the wires are secure; you are good to go~

haha, well that Norwegian was worse than a old sailer speaking while drunk :D haha

When I was younger and went to school I studied french for 2 years, most wasted time in my life. Cannot remember anything else than how to get a woman laid lol.


Well, Have to use some low-life fixes like that, but still i think it will work. I will anyway rebuild the car in the future.
Been looking @ the Chasebays Mil spec 44 pin connector (aircraft connector) to use in the firewall in the Autronic loom, but the one on Chasebays is quite expensive, and those on ebay don't have both connectors. + the tool is quite expensive, but I have to say that is one hell of a sexy contact!

http://www.chasebays.com/content/products/807/thumb.jpg

[Mikester]

jr_ss uses that style of connector (jealous as HELL of that guy!). I would have too but I had already purchased the Wiring Specialties harnesses when I found out they exist. Worked with aircraft for the last 20yrs of my life (MIL-SPEC kind of guy here ;) )- Love Cannon-style connectors. I often wonder why cars do not come with them from the factory these days- it would make trouble shooting malfunctions SO MUCH easier... not to mention clean up a lot of otherwise cluttered engine bays!

[Mannykiller]

this is rad... I cringe everytime I see all that bs electrical wiring/tape you pulled off the loom. You should weigh it!!

[Mikester]

this is rad... I cringe everytime I see all that bs electrical wiring/tape you pulled off the loom. You should weigh it!!

He did:



Was like 10 kg and 50 litres of garbage haha :D



Our boy Teigen will be pimpin' 20-something pounds lighter than before ;)

[Teigen]

jr_ss uses that style of connector (jealous as HELL of that guy!). I would have too but I had already purchased the Wiring Specialties harnesses when I found out they exist. Worked with aircraft for the last 20yrs of my life (MIL-SPEC kind of guy here ;) )- Love Cannon-style connectors. I often wonder why cars do not come with them from the factory these days- it would make trouble shooting malfunctions SO MUCH easier... not to mention clean up a lot of otherwise cluttered engine bays!

Yeah, I think it looks so much cleaner! Things have to be clean, clean CLEAN I say!

Marine Grade Stainless Steel Unbrako screws is my favourite!
You don't happen to know where to buy that contact a little cheaper?
Tool and Contact is 600 $ + shipping and tax



this is rad... I cringe everytime I see all that bs electrical wiring/tape you pulled off the loom. You should weigh it!!

He did:



Our boy Teigen will be pimpin' 20-something pounds lighter than before ;)

haha, yeah! :)

Havent reduced a lot of weight, mainly because I don't have time but it will be done sooner or later, maybe for next season if I got time for this car then (Tubeframe timeattack ? ) :D

What have been done that can be considered of removing weight is:

Removed ABS
Removed OEM enginebay wiring and unnecessary sensors ++
Cutting trunk floor for radiator fitting
removed oembattery case
removed A/C
Seibon Carbon bonnet on the way
removed OEM ECU
removed all alarm and security shit


What can be done:

remove sounddampening inside the car (probably 20kg??)
Lexan windows
moar carbon
Carbon rollcage (yes, it is possible)



Half of the AN stuff came today
http://s7.postimg.org/93870wc63/hose_and_fitting.jpg
What is missing in the package is AN16 and AN20
AN16 for the oilcatctank and AN20 for the radiator-to-engine


Shamely, I haven't get to pick up the finished crankshaft yet, but I will do in the following days.



Cheers

[bc.]

You have done plenty of things to add weight too, namely, moving the radiator to the rear.

[Teigen]

You have done plenty of things to add weight too, namely, moving the radiator to the rear.


Haven't exactly tried to make it light either :hahano:

[Mikester]

Looking forward to stealing ideas from all that AN stuff=)

[Teigen]

Looking forward to stealing ideas from all that AN stuff=)

Good! :)

too lazy to update this.


Meanwhile: What do you think about this pro? :)

MJCU24kc3XA

[Teigen]

http://s16.postimg.org/wme1xe9b9/autronic.jpg
http://s24.postimg.org/5d1r4foxx/DSC_0674_1.jpg
http://s3.postimg.org/ghc2bi3yr/DSC_0681_1.jpg

[inte_DK]

That is an awesome build :)!

Is it finished for Rudskogen this summer?

Regards from Denmark :)

[Teigen]

That is an awesome build :)!

Is it finished for Rudskogen this summer?

Regards from Denmark :)

Thank you very much! :D

Yes, I hope so. Plan is to have it test started by May and then have the car ready for the Gatebil @ Rudskogen and the "Japsetreff @ Rudskogen" arranged by the Norwegian SX club :)

___________


Doing a little update witha few pics. Just came home from one of the garages, been sitting about 7 hours TIG'in my Exhaust manifold. Finally it is done! :)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0724_zps8deddba0.jpg

Dont worry about the welds looking weird, I did some of them earlier with a MIG outside lol.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0718_zps0b55a47c.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0719_zpsab1fccbd.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0721_zps5f1e4af0.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0711_zpsb04b96a9.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0708_zps80904131.jpg

Also had to be fast and take a pic of 13:37 price for Petrol :)


Changing the axle of the MPG gearbox for the Volvo
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0691_zps97857821.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0689_zps4bf25844.jpg


Just placed a Compomotive 18x10 rim to see how it could look. Didn't look any nice, white and FN2 is a no-go I think.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0668_zps3a9d783d.jpg



I am also going to start making the Downpipe pretty soon. Have a Blitz Special 4" Supra exhaust that will meet the angelgrinder and TIG to become a downpie :rofl:
The exhaust sat on the 1000kg (including driver and fuel) Full-Carbon Supra which is driving timeattack here in Scandinavia :) Was visiting the owner yesterday, saw he had taken it off so I had to ask :D

http://powerdrift.no/v2/images/stories/radni_00.jpg

[Teigen]

Time for some bigass update

Got some awesome news here today! :D

About a week ago, a friend if mine in Japan (who have worked at Endless) tip'd me about an awesome addition to my car. He said that if I want to go fast, I need to change gears fast. Therefore, a sequential transmission was bought today. And it is not just any sequential Transmission;

HKS decided to make a sequentil transmission that was very strong, but also light. During the project, the productions was ended avter finishing the 3rd transmission. The cost was too high as the internals is made of a very expensive metal. The gearbox I have is marked with Serialnumber 002 and is fitted with a billett SR20 bellhousing by Endless-R. It's been sitting in a demo car and only got 500km sinde made. It comes overhauled and ready to install. Here is a picture from when it was taken out of the car.
http://s23.postimg.org/72xhojnjv/HKS2_2.jpg

Transmission is rated 1200NM and should hold for my purpose. Endless own 2 of them and have used the other one for dragracing in a 8 Second s14 with 950 whp. I would have to exchange the ratio of the transmission in order to run Norwegian track, but when I'm driving Hockenheim, Nurbugring and Circuit de Spa in August I need the final ratio as it is now in order to achieve 300 KM/H.

And it does not stop there!
http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/S15_Daishin.jpg

To my JDM rare collection I have bought the front fenders and 1 magnezium rim from the car pictured above. Those are 100% custom and one-off. The rim is 3-piece and center bolt. Fender flares is signed by All the drivers of the Daishin GT300 Silvia.




About my own car, it's a fem things done since last update.


Got this package a couple of days ago, directly from the US.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0780_zps0da443eb.jpg

and that package had this inside:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0784_zps9b34c208.jpg

A monster-large custom built intercooler.
it's 5" thick :ddog: When this was made, the plan was to have the IC place in front as it utually is in the S-chassis. Radiator is placed in rear as shown earlier and therefore the IC will be placed inside the enginebay. this is due to:
Cheeper to crash the car in the front to a certain point, shorter IC piping and a better weight distribution.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0796_zps153bf497.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0802_zpscb259d44.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0852_zps5da0abb2.jpg


As seen there is a couple new problems regarding the In/outlet on the IC. it would fit very good in the front of the car, but now I will have to fabricate some new in/outlets and weld it on.

Also been making an oil catchtank, this will be having vacuum and AN16 inlet.
http://s7.postimg.org/imgvgpcuz/weld.jpg


Got a Package of some Earl's
about 45 meters of hose :)
AN6
AN8
AN10
AN12
+ fittings

Next package will be the AN16 for radiator in rear and oilcatchtank, and rest of turbo lines
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0721_zpsdddd2851.jpg

Made some fuel lines and mounted yblock, pumps, FPR and lines for fuelrail.


http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0828_zps11503d48.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0830_zpsfaa48b98.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0831_zps17a44624.jpg

Good trick on how to make a clean cut and easily fit the fitting.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0825_zps72b755f5.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0832_zps1559ab2f.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0838_zps59803143.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0834_zps505522c4.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0836_zpsc8f0da57.jpg

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0845_zpsfc180410.jpg
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w435/Mats_Teigen/DSC_0849_zpsdcf5ff51.jpg


Time is running out and I have to go, but more updates to come!

[bc.]

Damn, that transmission is unreal... you are king of finding super rare and expensive parts.

Are you gonna put the radiator behind the IC like normal, or in front where the IC would usually go?

[Teigen]

Damn, that transmission is unreal... you are king of finding super rare and expensive parts.

Are you gonna put the radiator behind the IC like normal, or in front where the IC would usually go?

haha thanks!

the transmission is a beast! It's some time until I receive it as it is in Japan and I'm poor atm LOL. When I receive it I will do a cleanup, it looks not so good as it's been just sitting in a car inside a couple years.

I am obsessed with rare parts, it gives me a good feeling every time i find some haha. The dream is owning a GT300 Silvia but that will never be happening if I don't become a millionare and Nismo decides to sell another one.

I worked my ass off to find a 20k$ for the transmission, and then i got news about the gt300 parts lol. Sooo poor at the moment I am selling parts I am needing in my build to get this.


Radiator is placed in the trunk, as pictured and explained earlier in the thread.

[madserv]

Oh my God nice transmission cannu qoute me price ??? And any other availble for sale ???

[bc.]

Radiator is placed in the trunk, as pictured and explained earlier in the thread.
Oh, I knew that, I even commented on it.... long day at work, I need a vacation....

[Teigen]

Oh my God nice transmission cannu qoute me price ??? And any other availble for sale ???

hehe thanks!
Price i gave is somewhere around 20000 $ but the actual value is more for a collector as it is very rare. I'm sorry but I think it's a One-off chance I had.
Sugino san have one in his drag car and Nismo the last.

Oh, I knew that, I even commented on it.... long day at work, I need a vacation....

haha yeah I kind of remember! :)


BTW
wheels going to be Rays TE37 SL lightened version (400grams lighter)
18x10,5 rear 280/650/R18
18x9 in front 255/650/R18

Running Yokohama Advan Slicks

Those are the same used in many Japanese races and fits with Endless 380mm brakes which might be what I am going tp use for this car, or else Alcon/AP racing.

[stacksondeck]

Did you mean 20000 $, as in $20,000 US (twenty thousand dollars)???

[Teigen]

yes

This transmission is better than normal sequential transmissions on the market
It's as good as new and also is a collectable :)

I know it's a lot but it worth it for a Nissan freak like me :P

[stacksondeck]

My god...

I did not know you could spend that much money on one 240sx part.

[inopsey]

do you seriously pay 13$+ per liter for fuel?

[PerilousActs]

Is that transmission anything like the GT300 Silvia hewland id202 5 speed or is it completely different?

[Teigen]

My god...

I did not know you could spend that much money on one 240sx part.

Haha, well you got me. I'm a Nissan Freak, rare raceparts used by Nissan is like girls to me, very attractive!
It's a lot but it is worth it

do you seriously pay 13$+ per liter for fuel?
haha, luckyli it's not USD where I live, we got Norwegian Krone

13,37 NOK = 2,3 USD

Is that transmission anything like the GT300 Silvia hewland id202 5 speed or is it completely different?

Yes it's not far from. It's a 5 speed like the GT300 and BTCC transmissions.
It is alittle never though. This also contains magnezium parts so it is very light.

Here is a pic of the Shifter
toobad shipping is about 6 weeks and costs a lot too.
http://s21.postimg.org/uwsqgrjzr/hks6.jpg

[Mannykiller]

now that is cool! Congrats on the rare score!

[Teigen]

now that is cool! Congrats on the rare score!

Thanks! ;D

http://s23.postimg.org/yn4v3ua6j/gt300_felg.jpg

[Om1kron]

this is pretty godamned ridiculous.

[Teigen]

this is pretty godamned ridiculous.

Well that's none of your business.
I buy whatever I want and I like rare racing parts so why shouldn't I?

I don't really see the point of your post, why spend time to post anything on something you dislike?

[ANDY black s13]

this is pretty godamned ridiculous.

I think this was a compliment Teigen dude :D
regardless your car is awesome and the rare bits make it better

[jr_ss]

Wayne getting the foreigner all fired up with a compliment... Only you dude. Where the hell have you been?

Teigen- everything looks great man and that's all he was saying

[Teigen]

haha ah okay :)

I'm just so used to shit on zilvia hehe :)

Pics of what I have bought, pics are looking bad but they are taken In Japan with some oldschool camera it looks lol :)
These are completely One-off and High-valued collectors parts. I think I'll copy them and have the originals mounted on the wall next to other rare parts like that rim, and of course my big Japan-sunrise flag wil be there on the wall haha!!
http://s24.postimg.org/d86d711r9/gt300_teigen.png

Got no suspension on the car so I was stupid enough to ask my Japanese friend (He works with/knows people from Nismo race dep., Endless, Top Secret, Trance and Techo First and so on) if he knew about any OK suspension for my car.

Oh yes he had, he could get me exactly what I needed. GT500/300 coilovers, custom built to my car by same company who delivers to Japanese racing.

haha and of course I started shaking little bit as usual when I get to know about very good JDM parts and had to have a closer look. It's going to be a little expensive but in the end it's better than buying some old Øhlin's which is not made specific for my car. Price will be around 8,700 $ + Shipping. I cannot afford it before this season but I will definitely buy it!

:)

[Mikester]

:w00t::w00t::w00t::w00t:

Holy crap those must have cost a pretty penny!!!!!

Awesome!

[drscooper]

very nice build

[Teigen]

:w00t::w00t::w00t::w00t:

Holy crap those must have cost a pretty penny!!!!!

Awesome!

haha yeah they actually did :)
I still don't have any loan and I try to avoid it but as the result of this I cannot even afford buying new shoes! :)

Also think I cannot make it this season
I don't have:
Front brakes
Rims
ECU
Exhaust
Driveshaft
Control arms
Radiator

and a bunch of other stuff. + I don't have a job anymore :sadwavey:
(economic cutdowns)
very nice build

Thank you very much :)

[Teigen]

Anyone have any experience with this?
www.TDP.ie » TDP S-Body front kit. Shipping worldwide now. (http://www.tdp.ie/?p=1217)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LCR1lLaj3cg/T8XUiN2eZRI/AAAAAAAAMRQ/oWpnmOFeKVA/w892-h669-k/Complete-Kit_2.jpg

[Mikester]

^^You may try a PM to jr_ss or Cody Ace. One of them may have some useful info.

[Teigen]

Ok, thanks I will.

I've been in touch with the company and I'm getting a price quote for complete suspension for my S14, everything except Coilovers which I'm buying from Techno First in Japan when I got enough saved up.

[PoorMans180SX]

Anyone have any experience with this?
www.TDP.ie » TDP S-Body front kit. Shipping worldwide now. (http://www.tdp.ie/?p=1217)




This will be at my house Friday :). I don't know anyone that has the kit besides one guy in Washington, and the pro guys in British and Irish Drift Championships. That is the first generation one, the new one looks like this:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c25/Turbo711/Zilvia%20thread/Complete-kit_zps529f091b.jpg

[Teigen]

ok thanks for reply :)

I've been in touch with Robbie @ TDP and it seems very good. I'll give it a go when I got enough for it

[PoorMans180SX]

I'll let you know how it is if I get the car running before you get it!

[Teigen]

I'll let you know how it is if I get the car running before you get it!

Would be nice. I am sure you do, I am far away from getting mine fired. Lucky if I even get it driveable this year. Engine is done and ready to mount together but got no suspension or brakes hehe + no job atm

Cheers

[PoorMans180SX]

Would be nice. I am sure you do, I am far away from getting mine fired. Lucky if I even get it driveable this year. Engine is done and ready to mount together but got no suspension or brakes hehe + no job atm

Cheers

Bummer. Well at least I can give you a good review so you can make an informed decision. I hope you find a job soon man!

[Teigen]

Bummer. Well at least I can give you a good review so you can make an informed decision. I hope you find a job soon man!

Thanks mate, Looking forward to it, nice of you! :)

I really hope so too lol, got an insane offer to buy last prototype(2005) Nismo SR20 GT300 o.O

[ANDY black s13]

That TDP set-up looks so awesome with all that CNC'd aluminum,
I'd stick it in a glass case,looks too nice for my rusty old datsun's :)
And wish you good luck with getting work mate

[PerilousActs]

Teigen, if you aren't interested in purchasing that gt300 sr20 and do not mind sharing the details, I would be interested in hearing about it. Is this one of the two that popped up for sale back in February?

[Teigen]

post deleted

[Silviasurfer]

wow great work so far

[ino20]

nice, subscribed :)

[Dorifto87]

That's a custom built SR with the primera p12 head. Look at the engine code 8H6, thats the code for the nissan sr20ve 20V head.



PS: I like this Crazy build!! go hard!!

[jr_ss]

That's a custom built SR with the primera p12 head. Look at the engine code 8H6, thats the code for the nissan sr20ve 20V head.



PS: I like this Crazy build!! go hard!!

Did you not read anything he wrote in that post with the pictures...?

Teigen, keep in mind, they've probably have been sitting on that motor for awhile and there are probably only a handful of people in the world that would commit to buy it. So, if you do, be sure that you can handle being stuck with it for sometime or losing your ass on it.

[PoorMans180SX]

I love that the crank has no damper on it. I know there are a lot of people out there that would freak out at such a thought.

But, I am confused as to why the exhaust manifold looks like your average china piece of junk?

[Matej]

But, I am confused as to why the exhaust manifold looks like your average china piece of junk?
It is probably an old HKS or Greddy or whoever made that style originally, from before everybody copied it. :)

[Teigen]

wow great work so far

thanks! :)

nice, subscribed :)

I'm glad you like it! :)


PS: I like this Crazy build!! go hard!!

Thanks :)



Did you not read anything he wrote in that post with the pictures...?

Teigen, keep in mind, they've probably have been sitting on that motor for awhile and there are probably only a handful of people in the world that would commit to buy it. So, if you do, be sure that you can handle being stuck with it for sometime or losing your ass on it.

thank you for replying for me hehe. I've already spoken about 20 hours with Japanese specialist about this engine and got about 100 pics of parts and how its built.
I know for true that if I buy I'll never sell it. It's a racing memorial that I would love to own and use gently.
I love that the crank has no damper on it. I know there are a lot of people out there that would freak out at such a thought.

But, I am confused as to why the exhaust manifold looks like your average china piece of junk?

Yeah, shows what a proper built motor should look like!
the manifold have probably cost more than a new Nissan GT-R just to develope itself. like said below it's what every company have tried to copy, altough an outside copy made from 3-4 pics available on google from top of engine would never ever make it perform as good. I think it's titan btw

It is probably an old HKS or Greddy or whoever made that style originally, from before everybody copied it. :)

yep :)

[Darren]

Wow, impressed with the commitment to quality, and rarity. Hope you find a job soon to continue the episodes :D

sub'd for more Nissan Porn

[bc.]

I love that the crank has no damper on it. I know there are a lot of people out there that would freak out at such a thought.
It also has a dry sump setup. One of the reasons for the damper is to keep from destroying the oil pump with bad harmonics. But with a belt driven oil pump like this, there should be no concern of destroying it like the OE would do. racecar ≠ streetcar.

Now that I think about it though, I wonder what it looks like behind that front cover where the OE pump would go?

[jr_ss]

They probably just removed the pump housing and gear.

That motor is probably internally balanced like no other so there shouldn't really need to be a damper hanging off the front.

[stacksondeck]

It costs almost the same as a small house lol :P

Houses must be cheap over there! lol

racecarsdirect.com (Race Cars For Sale) » Nismo Silvia GT300 prototype race engine (http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/47119/nismo_silvia_gt300_prototype_race_engine.html)

Looks like $15k to me. I've got more than that in an ole det.


I'd like to know more about the prototype bottom mount turbo they used that is capable of 600hp..

[codyace]

I'd like to know more about the prototype bottom mount turbo they used that is capable of 600hp..

You get some of the R range garrett turbos without restrictors, and you're looking at serious HP.

WIth that said, it comes at a cost too.



Keep the updates up! Love seeing this!

[codyace]

And a big 'fun' FU to PoorMan for getting that suspension setup. Jealous!

[Teigen]

post deleted

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah I understand why it doesn't have a damper, I was just remarking at the humor in how some people have convinced themselves that it's an absolute necessity.

And a big 'fun' FU to PoorMan for getting that suspension setup. Jealous!

Haha, love you too!

[thizzen4]

what valve cover is that whys it look so different from every other sr20 v cover pm me please love the way it look s

[sr23det]

did you bother even reading any of this thread? did you not look at the title?

[Teigen]

what valve cover is that whys it look so different from every other sr20 v cover pm me please love the way it look s

did you bother even reading any of this thread? did you not look at the title?

Thanks sr23det :)

[TheRealSy90]

Omg Teigen where have you been i'm dying over here haha.

[Teigen]

Omg Teigen where have you been i'm dying over here haha.

Sorry, kind of forgot about this thread :0 I will update it soon, having some Nice and big parts coming the 20th
Also was without any income at all for 4 months this spring and early summer. Was hard to keep the parts but I survived without selling.

Now i've been in a new job for 3 months and already spent about 110,000 Norwegian kroner on parts and new migatronic tig. Wild guess it's around 19,000 us dollars ;D

Nismo visit in desember 0.o

More updates later, hiding to write this on work lol

Sent from my ST27i (shiiit phone) using Tapatalk 2

[TheRealSy90]

Awesome I can't wait to hear more.

[Teigen]

Awesome I can't wait to hear more.
Glad to hear :-)

Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 2

[madserv]

waiting............ :) hope to c more cool and rear stuff from your side.

[the_brownie1]

so much win in this built!!! cant wait to see more!

[Teigen]

Hi Guys

Sorry for late reply.


I've been trough 4 rough monts without any job. My previous job had a tight budget for 2013 and therefore me and 2 other guys were "fired"

4 months without any income is hard and it really began tearing me. I sold lots of good parts to pay bills etc :(

Well those parts does not include any of the "really good" parts. Or well, My Crower rods and CP pistons with lateral gasports had to go.

Luckily I am pretty decent at TIG welding so a friend of mine got me a few Sundays or welding aluminium on semi trucks at his job. The Boss were happy with the welding and suddenly I got a job. Been working there for about 2,5 months and its a great place. Almost every day have the opportunity of overtime :D


I finished the intake for the SR
http://s13.postimg.org/qkjdqbzuf/innsug.jpg


Somehow I am not happy with it. I think it is Shit

I will develope a new plenum and runners that will work proper. I really want a carbon plenum but I think I cannot/ should not afford that now, It would probably put this on hold until 2015 or something. I guess price for a carbon plenum will be around 7500 USD


Another problem i've come across is the space for a 4" downpipe. Its not possible without cutting the firewall and make space for it. Well its the only way so it have to be done.
I've also been working a little on my brothers Volvo 240
Here I had to make a large cut in the firewall to house the 4" downpipe and also needed custom work to fit the sequential mission he is using. + new tunnel for shaft
http://s21.postimg.org/uvvo1kk7b/downpipe.jpg
http://s21.postimg.org/cucj3rq6f/shifter.jpg

Also he aksed if I could fit this radiator without modding the bonnet ?!?! wtf o.O
http://s15.postimg.org/9xaxu6ox7/volvo.jpg

on Wednesday I took 15 mins off work and went over to Miagtronic over the street, a leading brand in welding here in north Europe.

Got to try a few models of their tigs and finally decided on a 200amp AC/DC TIG, which was very good using. It have built in cooling of the wolfram and full digital adjusting. I ordered a 2014 model and I hop eto receive it within next week, fresh from their factory in Denmark. got a great deal on 4700 USD$ With that new welding i hope to be able to weld a little faster as this machine does not need to cool down or other normal stuff for cheaper machines.



I opened my diff here the other day, i thought is was a decent KAAZ 1,5 way or something like previous owner of the car told me. SHows it was a oem lsd :/

therefore, I ordered a ATS Carbonetic diff, which have carbon plates for maximum traction and lifetime. It was expensive but I know its worth it. Nissan dealer who sold it to me guarantees 1000hp with timeattack setup


Also they gave me a good price on a Greddy diff cover, which holds 1 extra liter of oil.
And then I got crazy and ordered
330mm / 13" 4 pot rear brakes
380mm / 15" 8 pot front brakes

front brakes are huuge and they would usually require 19" rims but my frind at Endless in Japan said the RAY's TE37SL will fit the brakes in 18" rim. So that kind of saved me, I dont want 19" rims, slick gets more expensive and also it would require a lot of work to the car to house them.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/carbonetic_lsd.jpg

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/images/greddy%20s1415%20diff%20cover.jpg


The brakes, diff and diff cover arrives in mail around 20th this month, will post pics when i get it :)




I now Only need Rods and Pistons + bearings for the engine, besides that I think it could be possible to start it.


Need a clutch, anyone got?
1000 hp -+ rating


Going to japan 10th - 22th Desember, there I will meed with a Nismo contact and hopefully it will be a positive meeting. Also provate dinners with "Smokey" Nagata (Top Secret), Sugino san (Endless-R) and Satoshi san (Techno First )



About suspension I've been in contact with a company that will make all arms and knuckles etc in billet 7075 aluminium, also this will be extended 60mm each side from oem s14, so the car will be wider that way, instead of the need for huge spacers, which would kill the wheel bearing. Wont be cheap but will look and perform good :D


Also I might got my first semi sponsor, aka good prices on Bridgestone Slicks :D


Goodnight!

[ANDY black s13]

Awesome update man and glad you got through the rough patch and things are looking up again :), is that inlet plenum in the 1st picture a modified pulsar/sunny GTir part as looks very similar?
And I like the sound of the billet aluminum knuckles and arms
good luck with the project and your newish job :)

[Teigen]

Awesome update man and glad you got through the rough patch and things are looking up again :), is that inlet plenum in the 1st picture a modified pulsar/sunny GTir part as looks very similar?
And I like the sound of the billet aluminum knuckles and arms
good luck with the project and your newish job :)

Thanks man :D
Yes its a modified GTiR Plenum, this one actually came off a Nissan Pulsar Gr.A (WRC) from Canada.


I made new intake for the volvo
http://s15.postimg.org/lqx54rvl7/innsug1.jpg
http://s15.postimg.org/jxu8ggaej/innsug2.jpg
http://s15.postimg.org/y6tuyiox7/innsug3.jpg
http://s15.postimg.org/lgpmlfgyz/innsug4.jpg

Will do a similiar style with my engine, except i cannot fit those runners lol!

Also forgot to mention I am going drysump, custom setup so that i can lower engine maximum. steering rack will be relocated in order to lower engine

[ANDY black s13]

Very impressive stuff,and that volvo looks like another cool build
top work man :)

[Matej]

Somehow I am not happy with it. I think it is Shit

I will develope a new plenum and runners that will work proper. I really want a carbon plenum but I think I cannot/ should not afford that now, It would probably put this on hold until 2015 or something. I guess price for a carbon plenum will be around 7500 USD
Hunt down one of the old touring car intakes and mod it to work. :)


http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/satcar.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/tocarjohncraigs.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/igshaan1.jpg

[Teigen]

Very impressive stuff,and that volvo looks like another cool build
top work man :)

Thanks :) It's my brothers car but I'm doing most of the work on it, at least welding and fabricating for that is something he really sucks at :bowrofl:
Going to remove the old dana rear axle and build a custom subframe to house a BMW M5 diff with double A arms this winter.

Hunt down one of the old touring car intakes and mod it to work. :)


http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/satcar.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/tocarjohncraigs.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp202/RonGsxr/igshaan1.jpg


Well, it's not that easy haha, believe me I am obsessed and I know everything about those cars, but those intakes are hard to get. I've been in contact with several people all over the world but noone can get a setup. Also it would only work with a N/A engine, as they are not made for holding boost.

[Teigen]

http://s8.postimg.org/net2rz6lx/DSC_0173.jpg

[Teigen]

Small update


new parts arrived @ friday 18th.

@ the boxes. I went 3 times in and out of post office to carry these to my car lol :)
http://s7.postimg.org/rt3ef6h8b/newpicsaa.jpg

You can see I already opened one of them, i had to do, could not wait whole workday to see inside.
http://s11.postimg.org/u0n97qscz/kalipere.jpg

must say they are fucking huge!
http://s11.postimg.org/9lqrwo9ar/bord1.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/jbe5t85xv/bord2.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/m1nhqf2mr/bord3.jpg

Front on top, rear below.
http://s11.postimg.org/xbbm7miab/kalipere2.jpg

Rear
http://s11.postimg.org/x2imvfuvn/kalipere3.jpg
front and rear again
http://s11.postimg.org/5gfvarbir/kalipere4.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/nea8pf6dv/spindel2.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/j3qiwpuz7/spindel.jpg


Here is front kit fitted on the car (at least the caliper) and below are 300zx front brakes...
:)
http://s11.postimg.org/qjl74rtar/image.jpg

ATS Carbonetic LSD 1.5 way
Probably one of the best diffs at the market, with internal carbon plates this thing is a golden piece. the carbon plates would take forever to get worn out :coold:

the new Migatronic TIG is also lovable. really love how it work and feels when welding, compared to the old "china tig" i used to have for private work on my garage its heaven. Well the old one did the job, but it was slower and required much more service and settings all the time. the migatronic is a "smart" machine so it regulates a lot itself automatically.



neon lol
http://s11.postimg.org/6l9xg4xzn/Neon.jpg
Jewelery
http://s11.postimg.org/4n8bf9btf/turboer.jpg

A couple of days ago this was my dinnertable haha! :D

Women want expensive furniture because then they feel well, but I like to use my homebuilt table to store expensive parts on, and then I feel good :rofl:
http://s11.postimg.org/q4eiphwr7/mat.jpg


at a late sunday I quickly made a catchtank for my friends Opel Kadett turbo
http://s15.postimg.org/5yh37ltjf/opel.jpg

http://s17.postimg.org/7rp543f6n/catch2.jpg
http://s17.postimg.org/4nj2l1nrz/catch.jpg
need a polish tho haha :D

Also

last pics of the block as it per today.
http://s17.postimg.org/6tddfjr8f/t_rrsump.jpg
http://s17.postimg.org/urvsgfd0f/t_rrsump2.jpg


Also, picked up a old Nismo bar. its superlight! toobad I cannot use it
http://s17.postimg.org/spzwfx4f3/motorrom.jpg

last thing;
Will relocate the steering even lower/rear / semi underside of front subframe and also cut and lower the front subframe about 1/2"/ 1,5CM to get the engine superlow. It will be like, really low <3

[ferrariowner123]

How do you make a Catch Can?

Sweet car btw, i'm sub'd for sure.

-Kyle

[jr_ss]

Teigen,

You could've saved yourself some weight and cash by going with an alternate braking option. Personally, the Rotora's or any other OTS brake kit are more bling over function. You could've went with Wilwood 6pots and saved tremendous coin and unsprung weight.

Either way, I want to see these parts installed, not laying on a damn shelf...

[Teigen]

How do make a Catch Can?

Sweet car btw, i'm sub'd for sure.

-Kyle
cut it out from aluminium plate and weld it? :)
Sorry if I misunderstood you question.
Cheers
Teigen,

You could've saved yourself some weight and cash by going with an alternate braking option. Personally, the Rotora's or any other OTS brake kit are more bling over function. You could've went with Wilwood 6pots and saved tremendous coin and unsprung weight.

Either way, I want to see these parts installed, not laying on a damn shelf...
Yeah you got a point. Anyway its one of the few bling things i can live with haha. I've tried this brake kit on a car and it felt like my eyes were going out of the skull when going from 170-0 KM/h (315 r888)

brakepads are easy to get (in Norway) for rotora and They were lighter than i thought. not much more weight than oem front caliper. I got a pair of Wilwood SuperLite, but they are too small. Cant use them on anything.

I need way more money before these things even can go near my car.

Also need to make a new tubeframe rear sub, I feel the OEM one not being good enough.

Car have gone in direction of a SuperGT replica / look alike (GT300/GT500)

I bought Nismo 18x11" Magnesium center rims from r34 GT500 skyline.
also I bought this little car earlier this year. Not a nissan tho :(

http://s13.postimg.org/fr9mgvfwn/starlet.jpg



I feel that I am doing something wrong with my project. sadly it isnt turning into the direction I want it to be. I am obsessed now with GT500 R34 and I am about to take a loan and get a carbon chassis LOL

:( Inspiration is not on top, neither motivation.

[ferrariowner123]

cut it out from aluminium plate and weld it? :)
Sorry if I misunderstood you question.
Cheers



Is it really that simple?

I thought there was some wizardry involved with drains, bungs, and steel wool, but if all you did was weld, it. Simple enough for me.

Thanks for the reply

-Kyle

[jr_ss]

Is it really that simple?

I thought there was some wizardry involved with drains, bungs, and steel wool, but if all you did was weld, it. Simple enough for me.

Thanks for the reply

-Kyle

You want as much surface area and baffling as possible in a catch can. The idea is to collect the oil vapor rather than just having it sucked straight through the can. If you can add steel wool or another suitable material that has a lot of surface area and allows for air to flow through it.

Another thing is you typically want it under vacuum at all times. Venting to the atmosphere works, but a can under vacuum has been shown to make more power on a dyno vs atmospheric vented.

[ANDY black s13]

Awesome up date with some really nice stuff,and is that a Toyota starlet kp60 I spy ;)
after seeing your other stuff I guess something cool is planned with that?
I must see pictures of the carbon chassis (please) that is just pure automotive porn,
lets be honest anything from a GT500 r34 will be awesome let alone a chassis :)

[ferrariowner123]

You want as much surface area and baffling as possible in a catch can. The idea is to collect the oil vapor rather than just having it sucked straight through the can. If you can add steel wool or another suitable material that has a lot of surface area and allows for air to flow through it.

Another thing is you typically want it under vacuum at all times. Venting to the atmosphere works, but a can under vacuum has been shown to make more power on a dyno vs atmospheric vented.

Alright makes sense, thanks for the info.

Cant wait to see your beast up and running!!!

-Kyle

[Matej]

last thing;
Will relocate the steering even lower/rear / semi underside of front subframe and also cut and lower the front subframe about 1/2"/ 1,5CM to get the engine superlow. It will be like, really low <3
What will you do to prevent smashing the oil pan?
Or will you be using one of the BTCC dry sump setups? :)

[TheRealSy90]

I believe he said he was going with the original dry sump setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[jdizzy204]

Pictures of the Nismo Magnesium race wheels???

[Teigen]

Pictures of the Nismo Magnesium race wheels???

Little time to respond, but its these rims

Oilpan is only 8mm lower innside than crank "frame" if you understand. Sorry for bad English


KP startet is old rallycar
4link custom adjustable panhard, custom coilovers Volvo 1031 axle with truetrack. Custom Sellholm arms in front adjustable. Carbon Hood, carbon inside car. Idk what to put in it atm. Got a stock KA.... Ka-t???
Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 2

[aga]

put a 4agze ,with turbo on the starlet, stock around 300hp, it will be flying.

about the carbon plenum: in the horsepower you wanna be, i would advice against it. first of all, you will need to have a design that works. you can do modifications to an aluminium construction easily, but not to a carbon. the other thing is high boost. to get 1000hp as you want ,you want this thing to be strong. which means a two piece construction is a no-no.

the only way to do this properly is the following. after making your original (its called plug) and making your mold, there's a material called aquapour. you mix this with water and its like cement. you pour it in your (two-piece) mold, and after it has hardened, you take it out. apply carbon fiber and resin around it, and vacuum bag it. its gonna be ugly looking, but the interior is what matters. after it has cured, you can wash the aquapour out of the isides just by using water. and you re left with just the manifold. now, when i was researching how to do this i was afraid to bolt it directly to the block, so i thought i'd use an old manifold cut it off and connect the two with silicon couplers.(or vband clamps or whatever)

personally i think the gains are too little to get into such trouble. (but it's maximum restecpa when you open the hoood and show it off)

[Teigen]

put a 4agze ,with turbo on the starlet, stock around 300hp, it will be flying.

about the carbon plenum: in the horsepower you wanna be, i would advice against it. first of all, you will need to have a design that works. you can do modifications to an aluminium construction easily, but not to a carbon. the other thing is high boost. to get 1000hp as you want ,you want this thing to be strong. which means a two piece construction is a no-no.

the only way to do this properly is the following. after making your original (its called plug) and making your mold, there's a material called aquapour. you mix this with water and its like cement. you pour it in your (two-piece) mold, and after it has hardened, you take it out. apply carbon fiber and resin around it, and vacuum bag it. its gonna be ugly looking, but the interior is what matters. after it has cured, you can wash the aquapour out of the isides just by using water. and you re left with just the manifold. now, when i was researching how to do this i was afraid to bolt it directly to the block, so i thought i'd use an old manifold cut it off and connect the two with silicon couplers.(or vband clamps or whatever)

personally i think the gains are too little to get into such trouble. (but it's maximum restecpa when you open the hoood and show it off)awesome text!

That aquapour sounds amazing! Really need to buy that. The carbon plenum is more for the looks than weight saving. Its just a ultimate dream. Anyway i will make a new plenum/runners in oval alu. With billett flanges and inlet from IC same style as the one I made for the Volvo. Need a replace for when carbon intake cracks during a raceday...


Figured out i need to make tubs for front wheels. Any suggestions?

Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 2

[aga]

if you need help with carbon, techniques etc, gimme a shout. i got my materials from germany and sweden ...

[Teigen]

if you need help with carbon, techniques etc, gimme a shout. i got my materials from germany and sweden ...

Yeah would be superb. You work with it?
I have only made a few small enginecovers in carbon and not looking or being good haha. Need practice. I recently bought a vacuum machine from endless R

Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 2

[aga]

well, the only carbon that is light and looks good needs an autoclave. if you want maximum lightweight with conventional methods (vacuum bagging) you might get pinholes , that means the surface might get tiny air bubbles between the weaves. but methods and materials are always getting better and better. the perfect carbon you see on F1 etc are pre-preg carbon, they come frozen with the resin already impregnated within, and thats why you can cut them and place them by hand, and then they get vacuum bagged, AND pressurized to 7 bar within the heated oven (autoclave) thats why they look so flat and perfect. that's too much quality for us...heheh. but you can make a similar part with vacuum bagging with 30% more weight. so what, heh. already the parts i was making were 40% lighter than the equivalent seibon parts... a seibon hood was 7-8kg, mine were 4...and after years and years in the sun, no discoloration. but i was getting quality materials for me, while the chinese....

[Teigen]

well, the only carbon that is light and looks good needs an autoclave. if you want maximum lightweight with conventional methods (vacuum bagging) you might get pinholes , that means the surface might get tiny air bubbles between the weaves. but methods and materials are always getting better and better. the perfect carbon you see on F1 etc are pre-preg carbon, they come frozen with the resin already impregnated within, and thats why you can cut them and place them by hand, and then they get vacuum bagged, AND pressurized to 7 bar within the heated oven (autoclave) thats why they look so flat and perfect. that's too much quality for us...heheh. but you can make a similar part with vacuum bagging with 30% more weight. so what, heh. already the parts i was making were 40% lighter than the equivalent seibon parts... a seibon hood was 7-8kg, mine were 4...and after years and years in the sun, no discoloration. but i was getting quality materials for me, while the chinese....



Awesome, I understand you know a thing or two about this. I hae read about most of what you mentioned but I am not so experienced physically.

could you pm me your facebook add or some other way for easy contact?

Cheers :)

[Teigen]

http://s8.postimg.org/qodxhmq45/maximum_Low.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/4m4zr1lw9/ml2.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/kvqkg776h/ml3.jpg

maximum low. New oilpan for drysump is super thin, and I'ce vut down about 20mm into the subframe and lowered engine into.

Engine is now 94mm lower than stock, compared to a 98 S14a my friend got.

Will make new manifold, old one is crashing with subframe and I want the turbo lower and placed a little further forward in the enginebay so it does not crash with the strut tower as for now. bigger update later

[Teigen]

Today i sold the entire shit-ride for 50$... Hate this thing.. BIGFELLA!!!!!!



"forumrape"

[Teigen]

Sorry for the last post, didnt notice it before now. I forgot to log off a pc at work so this one idiot wanted to have some fun with me. Sorry for that. Update tonight

[Teigen]

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decided to start making "tubs" made from 0,9mm sheet

simply spot welded it on the bottom, and just bent it to where i wanted it on the strut tower and spot welded it there too. than draw the rest of the guide lines for cutting, removed the sheet by cutting the few spot welds and cutted. looking pretty good IMO.

Also bought 2x Turbosmart 40mm wastegates, their on their way with the post


any comments? lots more to write but I'm at a slow internet connection so its taking forever to upload more pics.

will remove the dash and strip the car inside
then send it off to cagemaker. I considered making the cage myself but buying all pieces and a tool to bend the bars is not going to be cheaper than the offer I got for a finished cage ( 12000 NOK / 2000 USD)


EDIT:

strut brace tower is just a prototype, I just made it to sketch up things :) then later I can use it as a good guidance for the real one

[ferrariowner123]

Looks awesome, i still cant believe you managed to find a BTCC SR!!

Great progress, keep it up man, looks like your work situation got itself sorted?

-Kyle