Just installed my SR, lots of questions

[trigun808]

Installed my sr20 in to my 14 last week.
All new gaskets except head.
Megan Mani with elbow, trust dp, and 2.5 megan exhaust.
Wiring Specialities harness.
Apexi intake knockoff.
Stock Maf
CX racing fmic with generic greddy bov, the purple one lol.
grim speed manual boost contoller.
Resurfaced flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch
New piolt and front/rean main seals.
Nismo Thermo

Car started up first crank and runs and idles.
1 thing im having some problems with.
What is the proper way to add coolant and to remove all air out of the motor and lines? I tried keeping the rad cap off and cracked open the bleed valve, put if i take the bleed valve competly off it literally shoots up and out constintaly LOL. i ran the heater too at the same time.
took a while for the thermo to finally open and for it start flowing, but im just curious on whats a better method. I have yet to still hook up my altima fan. Should have that done tonight.

I havnt been able to drive my 14 yet due to frsport giving me a clogged hardline from master to slave. (Converted from auto)

When the car first starts it idles kinda high (1400)
if i rev the motor a couple times and let her sit she falls down to 1k and she purs, but slighty hesitate just a little every 8-9 seconds.

MY OTHER QUESTION.
ive yet to shoot the timing, but IS it possible to stab the dizzy in and be off a tooth and for the car to still start??
I have no gauges as of yet so i cant tell what my afr is btw, but i mean the car sounds pretty nice.

My bov is on my cold pipe about 14-16 inchs away from the throttle. Im still getting some flutter under 4k, after that the bov kicks in. The bov has two nipples, on greddys site they say if you still have flutter to hook up the other line to the the T under the controller to turbo. I have yet to do that, so maybe next step?

Please anyone just give me advice.

[steve shadows]

Installed my sr20 in to my 14 last week.
All new gaskets except head.
Megan Mani with elbow, trust dp, and 2.5 megan exhaust.
Wiring Specialities harness.
Apexi intake knockoff.
Stock Maf
CX racing fmic with generic greddy bov, the purple one lol.
grim speed manual boost contoller.
Resurfaced flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch
New piolt and front/rean main seals.
Nismo Thermo

Car started up first crank and runs and idles.
1 thing im having some problems with.
What is the proper way to add coolant and to remove all air out of the motor and lines? I tried keeping the rad cap off and cracked open the bleed valve, put if i take the bleed valve competly off it literally shoots up and out constintaly LOL. i ran the heater too at the same time.
took a while for the thermo to finally open and for it start flowing, but im just curious on whats a better method. I have yet to still hook up my altima fan. Should have that done tonight.

There is a coolant bleeder screw on the water jacket, coolant arm that comes off the driver side of the motor this screw needs to be opened while the car is off, then start it up and let the air seep out as soon as straight coolant comes pouring out put the little 10 mm bolt back in the hole and tighten it back down, easy as pie and will save your motor from overheating and it will run better too.

I havnt been able to drive my 14 yet due to frsport giving me a clogged hardline from master to slave. (Converted from auto)

When the car first starts it idles kinda high (1400)
if i rev the motor a couple times and let her sit she falls down to 1k and she purs, but slighty hesitate just a little every 8-9 seconds.

There is an idle air control valve on the intake manifold side, there is a big screw on this idle air control valve, tighten it down a bit while the car is running you should hear the idle readjust and the car will be rock solid after this. Tweak this screw as needed. Makes sure to do the coolant bleed first though because too much air in the coolant system can also cause a high idle

MY OTHER QUESTION.
ive yet to shoot the timing, but IS it possible to stab the dizzy in and be off a tooth and for the car to still start??
I have no gauges as of yet so i cant tell what my afr is btw, but i mean the car sounds pretty nice.


No not really. It will not run or it will barely run like total shit - which i have seen in person it does happen when the actual CAS is screwedup. You can stab it in right and the dizzy just be totally fubared and off and you may need a new one to actually turn to get the right timing you need. Make sure to stab and restab again you'll get it right and then adjust the timing with a timing light from there.

My bov is on my cold pipe about 14-16 inchs away from the throttle. Im still getting some flutter under 4k, after that the bov kicks in. The bov has two nipples, on greddys site they say if you still have flutter to hook up the other line to the the T under the controller to turbo. I have yet to do that, so maybe next step?

Dump the greddy get a real HKS Super Sequential or get a PWR BOV, these rock from Australia or check out some of the other non shit plastic/rubber valve types. The Greddy Type R is a good alternative too. The cheap purple top one is shit just like the old Blitz ones are shit and leak.

Please anyone just give me advice.

Hope this helps! :trogdor:

PS. Buy a PFC before you buy anything else for mods on the car, just buy a used L-jetro maf based one get the Z32 maf, then hit me up. You won't be disappointed and it's the easiest and cheapest way to add 30-40 hp to the car, even with nothing else done to it....trust me on this.

[trigun808]

Wow man thank you thank you very much.
Yeah that Bleed screw, even with the car off its just gushing out, so im assuming i still have a lot of air. I'll post a video later of my sr so you can see the work ive done LOL.
Any idea where i can find a used L-jetro? Maybe here? I'll look locally first.
Yeah my bov is fucking crap man, brand new and it only opens after like 4 k... SOMETIMES. Ive tried adjusting the screw but its still shitty, getting a lot of flutter. What bov would you recommend that would fit my bov flange? Sorry for the noob questions, and i sincerely appreciate your wisdom and help.
What does PFC stand for? Personal Fuel Control? LOL

[Driftwurks]

What does PFC stand for? Personal Fuel Control? LOL

I'm pretty sure he is referring to this. Power FC (http://apexi-usa.com/power-fc/)

[trigun808]

http://s47.beta.photobucket.com/user/dqsh/media/2012-10-25_20-38-25_713.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

[steve shadows]

I'm pretty sure he is referring to this. Power FC (http://apexi-usa.com/power-fc/)

Yeah I swear I don't work or have any ties to Apexi, I deal a lot more with Haltech, but if Haltech is too scarey then go with a used PFC it will save your life until you can afford or understand the Haltech. Honestly the PS1000 once you get a good timing map in there, the fuel tuning, if you have a wideband practically tunes itself. Still best to hit up a dyno but just a tip/plug also on the haltech. either way pm me if you need more explanation of my response. I think you'll be fine just a basic few problems that are easily fixable and can get you hauling arse again quickly with your new toy. Take care. -Steve

[Kingtal0n]

brand new and it only opens after like 4 k... SOMETIMES. Ive tried adjusting the screw but its still shitty, getting a lot of flutter.

It should be on the hot-side if you want to best response. Any bypass located on the cold side is going to have a little delay. If you can find an authentic HKS and or authentic greddy type-s and stick it on the hot-side it will work great.

[trigun808]

So as i got back from Napa, buying some things to install the fans and the dif controller.
I turned the key to prime motor and to my surprise my temperature sensor raised a little slowly...
You think it might just be air in thesystem?

[trigun808]

I had not started the car at all. First time today

[fliprayzin240sx]

How I've bled my SRs, lift the front up with a jack as high as you can, turn the car on with the heater on full blast, leave the rad cap off, keep the coolant topped off and massage the upper radiator hose. Just doing it this way, you wont even have to fuck with the bleeder screw. Never had to with an SR.

Anyways, what SR is this? Did you switch out the water temp sensor if this is an S13 engine?

[steve shadows]

How I've bled my SRs, lift the front up with a jack as high as you can, turn the car on with the heater on full blast, leave the rad cap off, keep the coolant topped off and massage the upper radiator hose. Just doing it this way, you wont even have to fuck with the bleeder screw. Never had to with an SR.

Anyways, what SR is this? Did you switch out the water temp sensor if this is an S13 engine?

Exactly....

[jamg]

Nistune is a good alternative isn't it?

[trigun808]

I have a s13 sr and i have done nothing with any sensors as of yet. Do you use the ka tach sensor or something

[wangan_cruiser]

S13 Sr temp sensor will work fine with ka cluster

[fliprayzin240sx]

S13 Sr temp sensor will work fine with ka cluster

Not with an S14 cluster. S13 water temp sensor will read overheating on an S14 cluster. He'd need to take the 1 wire water temp sensor above the water pump and swap it with an S14 sensor. You can get the sensor from Pepboys or Advanced. If you get it from Autozone, I think they only have 1 sensor that is the same as the S13 against the S14 sensor. So if you get it there, it wont work on your car either. Just make sure you cross reference the part number they have for the S13 and S14, if the part number is the same, dont get it there. Go to another parts store company.

[trigun808]

thank you flip, yeah it reads like its over heating it wack as fuck. Cars cold and temperture gauge already rises. So all im changing is that sensor. I believe its the one on the right? its like a metal black flat connector right? One wire.

SOO TONIGHT I FINALLY GOT TO DRIVE MY SR
So as i pull out of my driveway and begin to drive up the street i get up to about 4-5 k to boost and BAM..... turbo gasket fails LOL, FUCK COMETIC. all my friends told me not use it and yes i should slap myself over and over, but lesson learned.... So i ordered the SR oem gasket from circuit sports, new oem exhaust gasket and turbo elbow gasket.
ANYWAY while i was pulling back into my driveway and pulled in the garage and let the car sit to idle and cool my megan manifold was glowing red hot near the turbo, all i did was drive up and down my street...............................
Any sugestions and why its glowing hot so SOON!?!?!?!?!

[trigun808]

is this what i need flip?
Nissan KA/SR Dash Gauge Temperature Sensor S14 Chassis (http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-KA-SR-Dash-Gauge-Temperature-Sensor-S14-Chassis_p_12757.html)

[trigun808]

Yeah, so it seems like i was over boosting.... I ran the waste gate straight to my got pipe, huge difference, not as powerful either.

[steve shadows]

Nistune:rl::axe::barfkiss: is a good alternative isn't it?

Alternative to a PFC? NO. Alternative to an AFC? MAYBE Alternative to Haltech? NEVER

[jdm213]

it doesent have a dizzy ??? i would check ur idle air control valve and check if ur filter is on, if u just swapped in an sr i recomend a walbro fuel pump and a z32 fuel filter cuz ur pump will fail if it needs fuel and check the gap on the plugs

[trigun808]

Walbro pump isn't really needed for just a stock sr. Plugs were brand new from fr pre gapped and for stock hp. I don't have a idling problem, why did you think that? And what are you talking about dizzy? Its a cas LOL AND i have not timed the car as of yet.
Anyway
I'm running off the waste gate for now, i had to of been over boosting, cause there is no more leak and not as powerful. Haha. I'm not gonna hook up the controller until i get a boost gauge

[trigun808]

Bit what's with the glowing megan manifold by my turbo

[trigun808]

Nobody?? Come onnnnnn help me

[fliprayzin240sx]

Yes, thats the sensor you need. But like I said, you can get the same sensor for cheaper at Autozone. Just make sure they dont have the same PN listed against both S13 and S14. I know Advance does this so dont get it from there.

Also, you need a Walbro pump. If you say you are overboosting, the stock pump isnt keeping up for sure. As far as the manifold glowing, your shit is engine is probably too far advanced so you're exhaust gas temp is hot as shit.

As far as you overboosting, do you have a vacum line connected to the wastegate nipple? DO NOT OVERBOOST THIS ENGINE IN YOUR CURRENT CONDITION. Not unless you want to buy another engine in the next couple of weeks. It doesnt take alot of detonation to cause these engines to get rod knocks.

[trigun808]

Timing was wayyyy advanced like you said. l was over boosting due to the fact i had manual controller hooked up, but with no gauge to see what exactly i was at, i was also using a cometic piece of shit fabric turbo gasket, stupid..... So i bought an OEM metal gasket. Ended up going to napa to get the temp sensor. I ended up striping out the oil feed hole in my block(previous owner ruined it) so now I'm in the process of tapping and installing an fittings with ss lines. Wish me luck! Ill follow up with details soon

[trigun808]

Got everything hooked up. Retapped the block, dif AN fittings, ss lines. Good to go. Timed it good. Drove her for about 30 miles, did a couple 7k pulls, she runs good and idles fine. Haven't hooked up any gauges as of yet. After my run was over, i popped my hood and noticed my oil dip stick popped out. Crankcase pressure? My pcv isn't clogged. could my rings be bad?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Do atleast a compression test, if not a leak down test to see. You can always have something to hold down the dip stick like a spring to keep it from popping up.