SR20det sputtering at idle. Lagging at boost / choking when past 0psi

[SilviaT]

So i have a sr20det freshly rebuilt about 600 miles ago. Forged CP pistons, oem rebuild besides that with apexi headgasket. t28 greddy rs bov, internal WG, meagan headers, cat delete 2.5" to turbo back muffler FOCUZ exhaust tip440cc injectors z32 MAF with ecu that has been tuned to the MAF and injectors. NEW knock sensor drove like a champ as soon as i replaced it! It was in limp mode for a while up until about the 300 mile mark due to code 34 (knock sensor) then i replaced it, it ran perfect! Then one morning, i went for a drive and it felt like it was in limp mode again! SO i went home and checked my ecu. CODE 55.?! I pulled my plugs (ngk iridium bkr7eix-11) They were gapped at my shop to about .020 so i cleaned them and gapped them to about .023 and now its Running rich and spitting a little bit of black debree out the exhaust when i put my hand next to the tip, and the idle hickups every now and then. Its steady but it putt putts a little bit. It was running code 12 for MAF. I fixed the connection on the MAF, and reset my ecu.
NOW IM RUNNING CODE 55 and its still lagging on boost every 3/5 pulls when i get past 0psi..
HELP??! Any suggestions?! i was thinking either have my ecu re-tuned since i have forged internals now and i had the ecu tuned before the rebuild..
Either that orrrrrr bad maf? hopefully not a bad turbo :(

[SilviaT]

I've heard that code 55 is no malfunction. Consult terminal required?! And i've been boosting around just fine getting up to 4-8psi every now and then for about a week after i replaced the knock sensor just FYI. it just decided to bog out under boost again lately idk why! ALSO maybe i should have left my plugs at the gap my shop gapped them at in the first place. Then maybe my idle wouldnt putt putt/ hickup or spit black stuff out during warm up!?

[SilviaT]

helllllllllllllppppppppp meeeeeeeee

[cotbu]

I'll help you! First of all get rid of the iridium plugs! Not that they suck, cause they don't they just tend to burn through anything making it difficult to diagnose common problems.

I'm gonna assume, your engine is not blown.(you check that shit yourself)
I'm also gonna assume you have all the tools and know how to use them.
I'm also gonna assume your 16-25yrs old.

Based on the information provided, I'm getting that timing is incorrect.
I'm also getting that you have wiring problems(electrical).

Turn the KOEO! check ecu for codes.
If you have a code post it, if no code! start the car, get it to operating temperature 80°c / 176°f. very important be patient. Take note of how the car's engine is running! TPS voltage, battery voltage, vacuum, oil pressure. idle, WB02 AFR and Timing! I need you Input here, You could also post a video, make it smooth and steady, 720p and turn your phone horizontal! get me all that info!

Stop everything if oil pressure is zero. Obviously! right!
While at operating temp you want to set idle and check timing!
I still don't, know what you idle at, so set idle to 850±50 rpm at 15°, you may loose vacuum or gain it right now, not important!

There are sure fire ways of setting the ecu to timing mode. consult interface is the fastest and the best. There is a manual way and a workaround, at 1100rpm. try to avoid the workaround.

After you set the timing and idle the engine should be purring at a steady 15°
with a decent idle 850±50rpm. compare those previous readings (TPS voltage, battery voltage, vacuum, oil pressure. idle, WB02 AFR and Timing) to the new readings. Has anything changed? Also if you've bothered to swap those plugs to coppers, they would be cleaning themselves when you achieve a good idle.

Well let me know what you get and we'll move forward.

[SilviaT]

I'll help you! First of all get rid of the iridium plugs! Not that they suck, cause they don't they just tend to burn through anything making it difficult to diagnose common problems.

I'm gonna assume, your engine is not blown.(you check that shit yourself)
I'm also gonna assume you have all the tools and know how to use them.
I'm also gonna assume your 16-25yrs old.

Based on the information provided, I'm getting that timing is incorrect.
I'm also getting that you have wiring problems(electrical).

Turn the KOEO! check ecu for codes.
If you have a code post it, if no code! start the car, get it to operating temperature 80°c / 176°f. very important be patient. Take note of how the car's engine is running! TPS voltage, battery voltage, vacuum, oil pressure. idle, WB02 AFR and Timing! I need you Input here, You could also post a video, make it smooth and steady, 720p and turn your phone horizontal! get me all that info!

Stop everything if oil pressure is zero. Obviously! right!
While at operating temp you want to set idle and check timing!
I still don't, know what you idle at, so set idle to 850±50 rpm at 15°, you may loose vacuum or gain it right now, not important!

There are sure fire ways of setting the ecu to timing mode. consult interface is the fastest and the best. There is a manual way and a workaround, at 1100rpm. try to avoid the workaround.

After you set the timing and idle the engine should be purring at a steady 15°
with a decent idle 850±50rpm. compare those previous readings (TPS voltage, battery voltage, vacuum, oil pressure. idle, WB02 AFR and Timing) to the new readings. Has anything changed? Also if you've bothered to swap those plugs to coppers, they would be cleaning themselves when you achieve a good idle.

Well let me know what you get and we'll move forward.

Yeah i've heard bad things about the iradiums and i appreciate your feedback man!
Engine is not blown. Yes i have quite a bit of tools. and i'm 21.
Engine was running perfect right after i replaced my knock sensor, and about a week later it started hesitating under boost again. Engine was set at correct timing (i believe) when it was rebuilt by my mechanic who is extreamly trustworthy when doing engine work. I had my wiring harness fabricated by a performance shop in oregon who goes through tons of sr20det's. BUT i will still double check everything because obviously something is not right..
SInce it is a new engine, i am using brad penn break in oil 30wt. Oil pressure is about 75 when cold, and 25/30 warm if i remember right.
Idle is about 850/900 when warm. 1400 cold. Sometimes after driving at a steady 3000rpms and i put in nuetral, it will go all the way down to 500rpms then back up to 900.. Just to put that out there.
Vacuum for boost sits at -20 like it should. Battery volt guage says 13.6 when running. 12.5 when off. Which is good.
The only code that is running is code 55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required. Could my ECU be not functioning properly? it has been tuned for my setup before maybe its acting up.. But i will check timing next!

[SilviaT]

No more sputtering. I have a bad connection on my MAF i believe. My idle went down to like 600 after i hit a bump. Popped the hood and pushed on the connection and it went back to normal 900. But i'm still studdering once i get into boost.. Vacuum is good no leaks. My plugs are gapped at about .023 they were at .020. Only code is 55 and it feels like its in limp mode...
UGHhhhh

[cotbu]

After certain issues with sensors the timing is retarded for safety.
If you haven't checked timing, do it!
The manual you keep quoting! The only code that is running is code 55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required
Means no sensor malfunction. You need consult to run diagnostics
which isn't entirely true, you can perform most of the test manually, like a power balance, but you wouldn't be able to, say; send a 100°c temp to the ecu. or raise or lower the ign timing on the fly, etc.

So getting your car to run correct, once you put the ecu into timing mode, your true idle will be apparent, if it's at 500rpm in timing mode? raise it to 850. if it's higher lower it!
if you timing is 10° shit... 21 never mind G\L

[SilviaT]

After certain issues with sensors the timing is retarded for safety.
If you haven't checked timing, do it!
The manual you keep quoting!
Means no sensor malfunction. You need consult to run diagnostics
which isn't entirely true, you can perform most of the test manually, like a power balance, but you wouldn't be able to, say; send a 100°c temp to the ecu. or raise or lower the ign timing on the fly, etc.

So getting your car to run correct, once you put the ecu into timing mode, your true idle will be apparent, if it's at 500rpm in timing mode? raise it to 850. if it's higher lower it!
if you timing is 10° shit... 21 never mind G\L

i appreciate all your help man but what does the last part mean?
Will do timing tomorrow morning.