VQ35DE swap info

[Guilty1s]

Over the past couple years, a few more people have successfully completed the VQ35 swap into an S-chassis by themselves, including 4-5 people putting the final touches on it this week. There is a lot of info out there. So much of it was helpful. Some of it misleading, some of it hard to understand, some of it just plain wrong, I wanted to gather all of yours and my info to make this easier for future people to do this swap.

I think I have done one of the lowest cost/most basic swap out there. I also have a lot of knowledge of the Z33 platform that helps me out.

This thread is going to be a work in progress, so give me a bit to clean it up and make it pretty.

A big thanks is due to all that helped me and others whether you know it or not.
Dudewutup, your original tutorial is what sparked it all. Not the easiest to understand, but you showed it was possible.
40flash (john) - You helped me numerous times. Thanks much. You made it a lot easier to understand,

[Guilty1s]

Start with what you need.
-VQ35DE motor. A revup should be 99% the same swap. HR is another story but will be extremely similar

-350z/G35 transmission. One should know that the 03 trans (cd001) had a lot of 3rd gear issues. I would put money on it. 04-06(cd009) is the way to go.

-ECU/harness. Now you have some matching to do. In 04.5, they changed to wideband O2s for the fronts. Your harness must match your ECU. 03-04.5 has a 4pin 02 sensor up front. 04.5-05 uses a 6 pin plug. 06 and 05 track editions have revup motors and need the revup ECU and harness anyways.

- Your ECU need to be flash to remove NATs. Any shop that used UpRev tuning can do it but I highly recommend Jon Parham from Z1 Motorsports (http://www.z1motorsports.com/). One of the most honest and courteous shops I have ever dealt with. 250 out the door. You can do shipping too. He will even make you a deal and take the 250 on the flash towards what it would cost if your brought your car in to get a flash and tune.

- 350z/g35 accelerator pedal - Mounts in the stock position. I had to alter the bend in my pedal slightly to light up with the rest.

- Driveshaft. Get a custom one made. The yoke can be very hard to find. But with the magic part number, it is cake. Spicer part 7091. Rear flange for whatever diff you may be using. I wouldn't pay more the 300 for one.

- Mounts. McKinney Makes some.... some guy on ebay copied them. They worked for me. Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/240SX-S13-S14-SWAP-VQ35DE-VQ35-350Z-G35-ENGINE-MOTOR-MOUNT-BRACKET-/261045751754?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc78a0fca&vxp=mtr)

- Shifter bracket -This guy designed and actually sells them to McKinney and Zfever and Vqswap.com Here (https://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/shiftermount) Great guy to deal with and the actual product is FLAWLESS!!!! You can make one yourself if you want.

- Fuel system. You will need an upgraded fuel pump. Walbro is simple and cheap. Now, the 350z uses a returnless system that has the fuel pressure regulated through the fuel pump. You need to setup a return system. I for now used the stock line. Added one of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/6AN-6AN-Fuel-Rail-Delivery-Regulator-Adaptor-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-/160764539589?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256e5032c5&vxp=mtr) on the end of the fuel rail to a aeromotive FPR. Now I read somewhere that the fuel pressure is static at I forgot what PSI, but that should mean that you DONT hook up the vacuum line to the AFPR.

- Harness from the 240sx. It shouldn't matter obd1 or 2 but I do think there is a difference in the F3 plug in Zenki/Kouki. Same idea though, just different pins. You actually don't need much at all of the harness, just the f3 plug and what is attached to it.

- OBD2 pigtail from 350z or g35. I found mine on a newer Sentra I think. As long as it has pins 4,5,8,14,16.

- Cooling system. There are so many ways you can do it, I'm not going to tell you how. All and all, you need a radiator and electronic fans and hoses to wrap it all up. How you route them is up to you. I am using a stock style radiator with just rerouted hoses. When I do my tube front end I will put the outlet/inlet ports in the correct spots (Passenger top/ Drivers bottom). E-fans, wire them how you want. There is many ways you can do it.

[Guilty1s]

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[Guilty1s]

Fitting this beast in there:

reserved

[notchtops14]

Could you please post up pic of the plug that has the White/Blue, red/black, red/white wires for the supplied 12v... PLease and thank you

[racepar1]

WOW, I figured this was going to be another dumbass thread. I am quite pleasantly surprised! Really the ONLY part of the VQ swap that hasn't been worked out is the smog legal part. Mainly the fuel and evap system. But I have never seen this much info in one place before. KUDOS TO YOU!!!

[rik boellen]

Good topic!

Finished my wireing this week.

My nats was done by

Horsham development (uk. Europe)
Jez did a great job
Was sent back to me in 2 days.
(I have read other things on here)

website

Horsham Developments - Nissan 370Z, 350Z, 200SX and Skyline tuning specialist (http://h-dev.co.uk/index2.php?page=home)

My note to the mc-cinney mounts:
-I think that they are way over priced
-The fitment is not good (Engine isn't lining straight)
Raised the right mount to fit the engine correct
-They dont fit s14 body because of the firewall bumb
If you don't modify the gear tunnel i think the engine and gearbox lays way to far backwards

In the future i think i made new mounts.

For the perfect swap we need to find out for

-headers (that fit sbody) that clear the steering rack.
-better mounts
-feul system (of shelf package)
-axle
-like the lsx,rb swap kits

Hope i can contribute this treat with photo's of the wireing on my new harness.

Regards,

Rik

[tapdeznutz]

subscribe and taking tons of notes.

[KansaiDrifter]

Wow wish this thread was up when I did mine, would have saved me some coin! Nice thread. I'm a happy VQvia owner, currently doing the vqvia-t setup. I see lots of potential in these engines and i really think once people get over the LS craze and want to get back to being "out of the norm" it'll catch on.

[status]

Nice! Maybe this will help me with some of my wiring headaches in my VQ swapped s13. Great write up man!

[Silentoreo34]

Good to see write ups like this always thought a vq35 into and s chassis would be badass. Great swap for those that wanna stick with na and still have a good amount of power, the sound of a vq is always a plus.

[shift_down]

thanks for this, its another option other than an ls swap. Im not too familiar with the vq motors specs, so I googled it. Here it is:

-------------------------
VQ35DE

Internals

The VQ35 in a 3.5-liter engine. It has a 3.76-inch bore and a 3.20-inch stroke. The bore and stroke combine to create 3,498 cubic centimeters of total displacement. From 2003 through 2006, the VQ35 has a 10.3-1 compression ratio, and from 2007 through 2008 it comes in either 10.3-1 or 10.6-1. In 2009, it only came with 10.6-1 compression.

The 3.5 L (3498 cc) VQ35DE is used in many modern Nissan vehicles. Bore and stroke are 95.5 mm and 81.4 mm. It uses a similar block design to the VQ30DE, but adds variable valve timing. It produces from 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp) to 304 PS (224 kW; 300 hp) of power and 246 to 274 lb·ft (334 to 371 N·m) of torque depending on the application.

The VQ35DE is built in Iwaki and Decherd, TN. It was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list from 2002 through to 2007. It features forged steel connecting rods, a microfinished one-piece forged crankshaft, and Nissan's nylon intake manifold technology. It has low-friction molybdenum-coated pistons and the intake is a high-flow tuned induction system. Since its inception Nissan has improved upon the VQ35DE with changes keeping it an efficient class leading V6 engine.

A modified version of the VQ35DE, called the S1, is produced by Nismo (Nissan's motorsports and performance division) for the Fairlady Z S-Tune GT. It produces 300 PS (220 kW; 300 hp) at 7,200 rpm, a higher rev-limit than that of the original VQ35DE. The 350Z GT-S concept has a VQ35DE equipped with a switchable Novidem supercharger, producing around 382 PS (281 kW; 377 hp) with a supercharger.

It is fitted to the following vehicles: North American

2001–2004 Nissan Pathfinder (240 hp)
2013–present Nissan Pathfinder (260 hp)
2001–2004 Infiniti QX4 (240 hp)
2002–2004 Infiniti I35 (255 hp)
2002–present Nissan Altima (240 to 270 hp)
2002–present Nissan Maxima (255 to 290 hp)
2003–2009 Nissan 350Z (287 to 306 hp)
2003–2004 Infiniti G35 (260 to 280 hp) all models
2005–2007 Infiniti G35 (280 to 306 hp) automatic transmission models
2007 Infiniti G35 (282 to 298 hp) Coupe only
2005–2007 Infiniti G35 (298 hp) manual transmission models
2003–2008 Infiniti FX35 (275 hp)
2003–present Nissan Murano (Z50) (240 to 265 hp)
2004–present Nissan Quest (235 to 260 hp)
2006–2008 Infiniti M35 (275 to 280 hp)
2013–present Infiniti JX35 (265 hp)

JDM and other markets

2000–present Nissan Elgrand 240 PS (180 kW; 240 hp)
2001–2007 Nissan Stagea 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp) and above
2001–2009 Renault Vel Satis 241 PS (177 kW; 238 hp)
2002–2008 Nissan Skyline (V35) 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp) and above
2003–present Nissan Teana/Cefiro (350JM-J31) 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)
2003–2009 Nissan Presage (231 hp)
2003–present Renault Espace 241 PS (177 kW; 238 hp)
2004–2007 Nissan Fuga 350 GT 280 PS (210 kW; 280 hp)
2005–2008 Nismo Fairlady Z S-Tune GT 300 PS (220 kW; 300 hp) (VQ35DE S1 engine)
2006–present Renault Samsung SM7 217 PS (160 kW; 214 hp) (Neo VQ35)
2008–present Renault Laguna Coupé 241 PS (177 kW; 238 hp)

[Guilty1s]

Edit: Info to add about the alternator
So my alternator wasn't charging after I did what I said before. For shits and giggles, I put a 12v light bulb between the other pin on the alternator and a 12 positive. On a 350z, it outputs a ground to the dash to light up the battery light while the positive end on the light is supplied through ignition hot +. Pretty much I was simulating that dash light. Boom! 14v on the mulitmeter.
In the end, I ended up taking that signal ground from the alternator and there is a plug under the that runs to the dash and works just like it should. Light on when the motor is not running, light off when the alternator is charging correctly, light on when it is not.

[Guilty1s]

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[ka-titties]

so its been 2 months... think you could correct the diagrams in your original posts that have errors?

[Guilty1s]

so its been 2 months... think you could correct the diagrams in your original posts that have errors?

Corrected. Procrastination at its best!:cool:

[silverv35]

in the picture it says do not cut the ascd wires? I dont see it connecting to the ecm in any way so is it actually optional

[Guilty1s]

in the picture it says do not cut the ascd wires? I dont see it connecting to the ecm in any way so is it actually optional

Correct. It is tied in with the wiper harness for a short length so I left it as is. In hind sight, they could easily be removed and wish I would have.

[silverv35]

Ok cool man thx for the reply im starting this swap this weekend

[PoorMans180SX]

Thanks so much for this thread. I tried Googling that Spicer part number for the driveshaft and got nothing, is it something that my local driveshaft shop should know?

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Vq35de is trash, either HR or go home! great thread though!

[Bambi]

Oh my god, thank you. Thank you so much.


My mind has been made up, vq swap it is.

[Guilty1s]

Thanks so much for this thread. I tried Googling that Spicer part number for the driveshaft and got nothing, is it something that my local driveshaft shop should know?


No. It isnt in any of the 2012 books. I had a really hard time getting my driveshaft made and finding that slip yoke. It was 40flash that got me the correct info.

[Guilty1s]

Vq35de is trash, either HR or go home! great thread though!

Isn't trash but the HR is the tits. I just love the powerband in my Z that I fiqured something 1200lbs lighter and a 4.1 diff would be perfect for a dedicated drift car.

[Guilty1s]

Oh my god, thank you. Thank you so much.


My mind has been made up, vq swap it is.

Do it. Anyone that needs any help, just pm me. Usually quick to reply and I will be glad to help.

[dudewutup]

just read your thread, alot of good info here subscribed. just wait till you get the car going its crazy fun.

[revcyanide]

For anyone doing this swap, I have some VQ35HR headers that I BELIEVE clear a 240sx steering rack.
Chase bays fuel line swap stuff.
Vq shifter
VQ maf

Selling all of it, I ended up just buying a 350z so I dont need it anymore : ]

[first_choice]

this swap is really on my mind. thinking of going for it

[Taylor Shinobu]

I am very interested in this swap, I just need to find out if it's carb legal

[DEMo]

OBD2 Plug can be from any 96+ Nissan Vehicle.
Gas Pedal can be from any VQ Drive-By-Wire Vehicle (Maxima, Murano, Altima, 350Z, FX35, M35, 350z, G35)

[FattyMcBaggins]

I have a set of the McKinney tubular manifolds for the swap and they clear the steering rack...didn't clear the head or coolant neck on the passenger side though. Had to trim a small tab off of the head, and shorten the coolant neck. They sound bitchin' though!

Good info man! I've got a ton of notes on my swap that I'll put up when I have some time to go through it all

[unwtdhero]

Any pinout for the 04.5-05 model ECM?

[DEMo]

Any pinout for the 04.5-05 model ECM?

Same pinout. The only thing that changed was the IPDM and the only thing that would be different on the harness are F1-F2-F3 plug wires. ECU pinout is the same.

As it turns out, This is way easier to wire in to an S13 as the relays are already set up for it.

[ka-titties]

For those of you that have gotten their ecu's flashed, did you have to ask for anything specific other than getting NATS removed? is there any other ecu functions you need disabled so that it doesnt get pissed when you don't have a bunch of the other accessories and whatnot that the Z would normally have?

Also, i've got a flashed '05 G35 automatic sedan ecu and engine harness. i'm trying to figure out how or why i'm not getting spark. could it be because i'm using the sedan/auto ecu and harness? everything in the harness seems to be the same minus some extra transmission stuff.

[DEMo]

For those of you that have gotten their ecu's flashed, did you have to ask for anything specific other than getting NATS removed? is there any other ecu functions you need disabled so that it doesnt get pissed when you don't have a bunch of the other accessories and whatnot that the Z would normally have?

Also, i've got a flashed '05 G35 automatic sedan ecu and engine harness. i'm trying to figure out how or why i'm not getting spark. could it be because i'm using the sedan/auto ecu and harness? everything in the harness seems to be the same minus some extra transmission stuff.

The Auto ECU and Harness should not affect anything. Did you follow this guide or did you wire it up yourself?

[Guilty1s]

For those of you that have gotten their ecu's flashed, did you have to ask for anything specific other than getting NATS removed? is there any other ecu functions you need disabled so that it doesnt get pissed when you don't have a bunch of the other accessories and whatnot that the Z would normally have?

Also, i've got a flashed '05 G35 automatic sedan ecu and engine harness. i'm trying to figure out how or why i'm not getting spark. could it be because i'm using the sedan/auto ecu and harness? everything in the harness seems to be the same minus some extra transmission stuff.

It usually not getting power to the junction boxes. Test for 12v and ground in the corresponding places.

Junction Boxes
Now there is 4 junction boxes intertwined in the VQ harness that splits up 12v and grounds to all the sensors, and coils.
Pin number in parenthesis

white/blue (JC3) 12v hot to:
Ignition coil x 6 (3)
Evap Vent Valve (1)
Intake Valve Timing Solenoid x2 (2)

Red/Black (JC4) 12v hot to
O2 Sensors x4 (2)

Red/White (JC4)12v hot to
Cam Position Sensor x2 (3)
MAF (2)
EVAP Purge Valve (1)
Crank Position Sensor (1)

Black/white (JC1) Ground supplied through ECU
ECM (67)
MAF (6)
MAF (3)
Power Steering Pressure Sensor (3)
Coolant Temp Sensor (2)
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor (3)
Evap Pressure Sensor (1)


And I bumped my rev limit up 200 or so rpm, removed what would throw codes for Evap, and the dude from Z1 question what motor mods I had... i.e....z1 intake, free exhaust, plenum spacers, manifolds...etc.... I'm thinking you can use Osiris to maybe base/shelf tune.

[FattyMcBaggins]

ZFever and Z1 both shelf tune those ECU's when they do NATs removal. I went and had my car tuned at UpRev after my swap, and other than smoothing out the powerband a bit, they said they couldn't get me much more power. Most of the things they would've done, had already been done.

[klummpy]

I'm just about done with my vq35de swap in my s14.3 so let me know if you need any pics or help, I tried to use a stock ecu/harness but went haltech ps2000 stand alone instead but anyway all I have left is to run my power steering lines everything else is done

[Jissan]

I'm just about done with my vq35de swap in my s14.3 so let me know if you need any pics or help, I tried to use a stock ecu/harness but went haltech ps2000 stand alone instead but anyway all I have left is to run my power steering lines everything else is done

Any reason you decided to go Haltech and not use the stock harness? I've got a donor car and am about to put a VQ35HR in my S13 and plan on pretty much using all Z electronics. Did you just want more tuning capabilities?

[Guilty1s]

The stock ecu plus Osiris (what everyone uses to disable nats) is plenty capable for any NA car. The only time I see a $2500+ stand alone would be for a more then stock block FI build.

[RollingZEE]

Yo if anybody is looking to get a vq35 engine i have one for sale
If interested text 757-277-4108 ill send pics

[wayneSR20]

I did this swap in my s13 got it started today, but the throttle flap isn't opening when I step on the gas pedal

[Guilty1s]

I did this swap in my s13 got it started today, but the throttle flap isn't opening when I step on the gas pedal

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[ClaytonTNelson]

I am currently in the middle of this swap and having some issues getting the car to run. I followed the write and got everything wired in accordingly. Nats has also been removed. But i dont get any fire(spark) from the plugs and am also getting nothing from the fuel injectors. Ive tested power and grounds at the coils and am also getting signal, but still cant get any spark or fuel.

Here are a list of codes that i am getting,
-------- ECU --------

Found: 7 codes!
**********
P1212,ABS/TCS Communication Line
**********
P1610,Lock Mode,unregistered key used 5 times, BCM or ECM is malfunctioning
**********
U1001,CAN communication line
**********
P1564,ASCD Steering Switch
**********
P0183,Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
**********
P0462,Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
**********
P0447,Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open

Any help or insight would be really appreciated.
Thanks,
Clayton

[Guilty1s]

That p1610 doesn't sound right. That sounds like it is still looking for the bcm which will stop your car from running.

[ClaytonTNelson]

Ive also tried contacting UpRev about these codes, to try and figure out why it would throw the p1610 with NATS disabled. They pretty much to me to go F' myself.

Would the p1610 still show show with the NATS system disabled?

[Guilty1s]

Ive also tried contacting UpRev about these codes, to try and figure out why it would throw the p1610 with NATS disabled. They pretty much to me to go F' myself.

Would the p1610 still show show with the NATS system disabled?

I don't have it. The rest of them I do. It shouldn't be there. It wouldn't call it an issue with uprev but more of an issue of who flashed your ecu. Who was it?

[ClaytonTNelson]

I am the one who flashed the ecu. I bought the package from uprev and had them send me a Rom file nats disabled.

I knew it wasn't "their problem" I was just hoping I could get a little more support out of them in trying to figure things out with the ecu and eliminating anti theft.

[ClaytonTNelson]

Well im trying to have uprev send me a new rom with nats disabled. hopefully i can get this figured out. Its been holding me back for a couple weeks now.

[ClaytonTNelson]

UpRev has sent me the Rom with NATS removed and the car still wont fire. Still shows the same codes. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Clayton

[Guilty1s]

I'm assuming you have the tuner version. Everything I have been told is that tuner won't allow you to disable NATS that a authorized tuner/distributor can do that. That is why I had to go to z1 instead of having the full version at y disposal.

[Guilty1s]

Are you getting injectors to fire? My first thought when you said not getting spark was getting the correct power to the junction boxes.

Make sure you have 12v constant at white/blue wires.

[Danial]

sweet thread. lots of good solid DIY too

[ClaytonTNelson]

I have the tuner version and Uprev sent me the a stock rom with nats removed. I was able to get my car to fire last night after playing with some settings. but now i cant get the car to consistently to run, its seems to be all in the details. Turn off certain things to not trigger certain fault codes. And im not sure which things are turned off and what stays on. Its something associated with the BCM.

I called around and no one wants to share that information with me, which is understandable. They could potentially lose business if that information were to get out.

What would really help is if someone with the tuner version could send me a rom so that i can see what the way its configured.

That would be really appreciated.
Thanks,
Clayton

[ClaytonTNelson]

I cant seem to make the "P1212,ABS/TCS Communication Line"
fault go away.

I believe thats my issue.

Edit.
My current list of DTC codes

Found: 5 codes!
**********
P1212,ABS/TCS Communication Line
**********
P0118,Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
**********
P0183,Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
**********
P0462,Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
**********
P0447,Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open

[Guilty1s]

Figure anything out yet?

[ClaytonTNelson]

Ive figured out that i need to pay someone to remove the BCM functions... kinda sucks but as long this car will run after then im happy. Im actually in the middle of calling around to have that done.

[Guilty1s]

I would highly suggest to see what Z1 motorsport could do for you. Probably the best Osiris dealers/tuners out there.

It may be in your best interest to sell the tuner version and just buy the flash. Unless you are going to do the tuning yourself, letting a Osiris dealer do all of it is cheaper.

[ClaytonTNelson]

The Idea behind purchasing the tuner version was so that i could "learn" to tune. Plus i have a good friend of mine that tunes and he was going to show that side of things. I figured what better car to learn on than my own car.

Ill pay a little extra to have it set up correctly and then go from there.

[dil han]

Can't you just give ecu pin 3,119,120 12v power from a single
relay? I'm doing switch panel and already have 8 relays.

[PoorMans180SX]

So, IDK about you guys, but I've been needing some inspiration for completing my VQ swap when I'm surrounded by turbocharged engines all day. So here it is, lead car is a stock VQ35DE :)

r4nRlwLMPTA

[ka-titties]

hell yeah!

[ClaytonTNelson]

Well guys i have finally have my car consistently starting and running. I put in a call to the boys at Z1motorsports. Great bunch of guys there, very knowledgeable. They knew what my problem was and were quick to help. Cant thank them guys enough, especially John.

For you guys who are going through this swap and/or will be in the future i suggest you give those guys a call for any services you need.

I Hope to be posting pictures of my 97 240sx running and driving in the following months.

[ka-titties]

Well guys i have finally have my car consistently starting and running. I put in a call to the boys at Z1motorsports. Great bunch of guys there, very knowledgeable. They knew what my problem was and were quick to help. Cant thank them guys enough, especially John.

For you guys who are going through this swap and/or will be in the future i suggest you give those guys a call for any services you need.

I Hope to be posting pictures of my 97 240sx running and driving in the following months.

all that and you don't post up what the problem was?

[ClaytonTNelson]

It was a ecu tuning that needed to be done. Unfortunately the general public doesn't have access to certain functions such as the removal of the Nissan anti theft system (NATS). This is where a pro tuner is needed. John at Z1 knew exactly what to do and the turn around time was great.

[dkim1985]

so im getting a vq from someone and they have engine only (no tranny, no ecu, no pedal).
i'm planning to rebuild to factory specs so my question is, can i use an ecu from a different vq engine to work with the one i'm purchasing(03, 04)?

[Danial]

there are many issues with swapping ecus.

my friend had an issue unlocking the ecu he was trying to swap in. it isnt cheap if i remember correctly

also pretty positive you cannot use the vq35hr ecu with the de engine. They are very different engines. single intake vs twins. an extra 1000 rpms in the tuning. etc etc pretty much a completely different engine.

[dkim1985]

well apparently this engine (vq35de) is either from 03 or 04 model.
and this guy says i can take an ecu from another vq thats either 03 or 04 and it'll work..
thoughts?

[Danial]

You will still need to go to a tuner I believe. See above posts above theft system

[dkim1985]

so removing the NATS on any VQ ECU will make it work with this engine(03-04 VQ)?

sorry if this seems like stupid questions. still trying to find stuff out.

[Nismo1182]

Yup NATS has to be removed.

[dkim1985]

Yup NATS has to be removed.

i get that NATS has to be removed...but does that mean any VQ35DE ECU will work with a different VQ35DE engine pulled from a different vehicle?

[Nismo1182]

i get that NATS has to be removed...but does that mean any VQ35DE ECU will work with a different VQ35DE engine pulled from a different vehicle?

If its unlocked correctly, then yes. ECU has to correspond to the correct type of VQ. Like a regular DE wont work on a rev up or HR.

[DEMo]

Here is some VALUABLE info (non-HR):

ECU's

Automatic:
03-04 "DE" [4 pin o2][AVOID 03 G35 sedan ECU *COUPE ECU ARE OK*]
04.5-05 "DE" [5 pin o2]
2006+ "Revup" [5 pin o2]

Manual:
03-04 "DE" [4 pin o2]
04.5 "DE" [5 pin o2]
2005+ "Revup" [5 pin o2]

Harness'

Automatic:
03-04 "DE" [4 pin o2][AVOID 03 G35 sedan harness *COUPE ECU ARE OK*]
04.5-05 "DE" [5 pin o2]
2006+ "Revup" [5 pin o2]

Manual:
03-04 "DE" [4 pin o2]
04.5 "DE" [5 pin o2]
2005+ "Revup" [5 pin o2]

With this being said you can use Any combo of ECU's and Harness as long as o2 sensors match and they belong to the same group "DE" or "Revup".

Examples:
"DE" ECU Harness/O2 on "DE" Block
"DE" ECU/Harness/O2 on "Revup" Block *4 sensors will remain unplugged, but will work fine*
"Revup" ECU/Harness/O2 will only work on "DE" block if the DTC's are disabled

*03 g35 sedan ECU/Harness are that of a Maxima*

Wiring in to S13/S14 chassis

Most wiring guides out there are misleading. There are many easy ways to get this done. If you need help or have questions, shoot me an email at [email protected]

ECU Codes

Most of these will not be needed as the VQ OE components are not needed.

A brief list of what can be disabled on the ECU and allow the motor to operate normally:

Secondary o2 Sensors
Fuel Tank Temp Sensors
EVAP controls
Speed Sensor
Power Steering Pressure
Traction Control
Fuel Level
Catalytic Converter Check

AND MUCH MUCH MORE!!!


If you need info on ANYTHING regarding this swap in to s13/s14 shoot me an email at [email protected]

[Options13]

i have a VQ35de with 40k miles for sale if anyone in here is interested, lol

[irax]

This thread has made me so proud

[dkim1985]

ECU Codes

Most of these will not be needed as the VQ OE components are not needed.

A brief list of what can be disabled on the ECU and allow the motor to operate normally:

Secondary o2 Sensors
Fuel Tank Temp Sensors
EVAP controls
Speed Sensor
Power Steering Pressure
Traction Control
Fuel Level
Catalytic Converter Check

AND MUCH MUCH MORE!!!

isn't some of this required to make it carb legal in CA?

[Guilty1s]

Let me set this straight

Ecu wise you can concider 4 different types.

A-03/early 04s use narrowband o2 sensors
B-Late 04s and 05s use widebands
C-all 06 and the track 05s are rev ups and use an ecu that controls it
D- 07-08 are all HR motors and uses that ecu

Each of the 4 types of ecu has a harness that must match (modification can allow changing them)

Ok. But there is only 3 motors
1- vq35de non-revup (can use a or b but the harness needs to match the ecu)
2- vq35de revup (uses c)
3- vq35hr (uses D)

So I can use an 03 motor with my 05 ecu and harness. Or even visa versa.


To keep things carb legal you would have to incorporate the evap system which gets pretty elaborate with the fuel tank and canister setup but is very doable. There is a thread on here with someone who pretty much put the entire 350z in an s14



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[KansaiDrifter]

Hey guys, I'm in need of help, I need to figure out where the 6 wires on the throttle body need to end up at the ecu,what pin numbers? I've been through it but I've got to be missing something. Having issues with only a couple codes, mainly the low voltage correlation.

I've gone through the Accel Pedal wiring and the 6 wires end up at the correct pins in the ecu, but I'm unsure of the throttle body itself. I really need to figure out what pins they're supposed to end up at and what position on the TB plug, like how it's shown in the thread for the Accel pedal.


Also, I've found this on the interwebs, but there's no clear pin numbers
http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/G15%20-%20Nissan%20VQ35%20Electronic%20Throttle%20Wiring. pdf

I really appreciate any help you guys can throw at this, I'm stuck and only waiting on this to get it running! Here's a pic for inspiration!

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h153/rh4motorsports/20130716_182518_zps1ff431fb.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/user/rh4motorsports/media/20130716_182518_zps1ff431fb.jpg.html)

[Guilty1s]

All the info you need should be on the first page


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[ClaytonTNelson]

So i haven't really had a lot of time to work on my car. The last thing i did was some wiring when i was able to get it to run. well as of this past weekend i cant seem to get my car to start. Throttle body doesn't function at all, as well as no spark of fuel from the injectors. No new codes on the ecu. This whole thing is killing me... I cant seem to get ahead.

The only thing that i did differently was install a new battery. Also my ecu was unplugged since i last worked on it.

[gosai_240sx]

Has anyone had any power steering issues on their vq swaps?
My steering was stiff and shaky when turning fast which could mean power steering pump.
Yesterday the steering rack blew a seal leaking everywhere.
Is it time to rebuild both?
P.s. Im using the Chase Bays setup

[dkim1985]

To keep things carb legal you would have to incorporate the evap system which gets pretty elaborate with the fuel tank and canister setup but is very doable. There is a thread on here with someone who pretty much put the entire 350z in an s14

THIS. I need to find this.
My goal is to setup the VQ in my s13 and make it street legal. Anything else is secondary as this will be my daily driver...and i don't trust my luck with :cops:.

What options are there for hood clearance?
Also, what options are there for exhaust headers? I hear stock hits steering rack so thats a no-go?

Thanks for the ECU info, i'll keep that in mind!

I now have a VQ from 03-04 350z (engine only) sitting in my garage~

[Guilty1s]

THIS. I need to find this.
My goal is to setup the VQ in my s13 and make it street legal. Anything else is secondary as this will be my daily driver...and i don't trust my luck with :cops:.

What options are there for hood clearance?
Also, what options are there for exhaust headers? I hear stock hits steering rack so thats a no-go?

Thanks for the ECU info, i'll keep that in mind!

I now have a VQ from 03-04 350z (engine only) sitting in my garage~

Here is that thread. This guys fab skills are sweet.
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/384013-plusoneten-build.html

For hood clearance I just used spacers. I could get less of a gap if I cut out some of the bracing. Zenki seems easier to fit too.



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[Nismo1182]

Also, what options are there for exhaust headers? I hear stock hits steering rack so thats a no-go?
HR and DE headers hit the rack. What we do is cut the flange off and a good mount back off the oem header and weld a new exhaust downpipe and flange to clear everything.

[Guilty1s]

I'm using stock manifolds... Just needed a BFH to dent in the secondary layer. No harm at all.


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[Guilty1s]

In case anybody wanted to see my build thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/490171-s14-vq35de-drifting-budget.html


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[dkim1985]

I'm using stock manifolds... Just needed a BFH to dent in the secondary layer. No harm at all.


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Can somebody post some pictures of how their exhaust header setup looks like?

[ClaytonTNelson]

so after doing some poking around i found that i dont have any power at pin 3 on the ecu.

[ka-titties]

what are you guys doing with the alternator diode circuit?

[Guilty1s]

what are you guys doing with the alternator diode circuit?

You obviously need your large gauge wire to carry the 12v charge from the alternator to the battery.
The ground is provided through the chassis/motor

You also need to provide 12v to the LightGreen/Black wire which is the signal wire for the voltage regulator. Without 12v to it, the alternator wont put out a charge.
You can easily tap into it into the plug next to the plug that you used for the 3wires for the 12v junctions. In fact, I used the same 12v source.

Edit: Info to add about the alternator
So my alternator wasn't charging after I did what I said before. For shits and giggles, I put a 12v light bulb between the other pin on the alternator and a 12 positive. On a 350z, it outputs a ground to the dash to light up the battery light while the positive end on the light is supplied through ignition hot +. Pretty much I was simulating that dash light. Boom! 14v on the mulitmeter.
In the end, I ended up taking that signal ground from the alternator and there is a plug under the hood that runs to the dash and works just like it should. Light on when the motor is not running, light off when the alternator is charging correctly, light on when it is not.


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[KansaiDrifter]

^That's interesting, I'm also chasing the charging right now, have 12v to the b terminal and pin 4 on the 2 wire plug, no charge, no light hooked up either though. I did hook up a nice ground this time to the case, I'll have to see if that works, if not I'll try a light.

[Guilty1s]

^That's interesting, I'm also chasing the charging right now, have 12v to the b terminal and pin 4 on the 2 wire plug, no charge, no light hooked up either though. I did hook up a nice ground this time to the case, I'll have to see if that works, if not I'll try a light.

Yeah. Must have that light or some sort of ground hooked up to get that charge.


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[ka-titties]

You obviously need your large gauge wire to carry the 12v charge from the alternator to the battery.
The ground is provided through the chassis/motor

You also need to provide 12v to the LightGreen/Black wire which is the signal wire for the voltage regulator. Without 12v to it, the alternator wont put out a charge.
You can easily tap into it into the plug next to the plug that you used for the 3wires for the 12v junctions. In fact, I used the same 12v source.

Edit: Info to add about the alternator
So my alternator wasn't charging after I did what I said before. For shits and giggles, I put a 12v light bulb between the other pin on the alternator and a 12 positive. On a 350z, it outputs a ground to the dash to light up the battery light while the positive end on the light is supplied through ignition hot +. Pretty much I was simulating that dash light. Boom! 14v on the mulitmeter.
In the end, I ended up taking that signal ground from the alternator and there is a plug under the hood that runs to the dash and works just like it should. Light on when the motor is not running, light off when the alternator is charging correctly, light on when it is not.


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this is mainly what i was referring to. the 12v signal is taken care of with my jumper harness. OEM FTW.

but yeah, look here, page 22: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004.5/sc.pdf

edit:

you've got to put either a light or a diode in there.

[Guilty1s]

this is mainly what i was referring to. the 12v signal is taken care of with my jumper harness. OEM FTW.

but yeah, look here, page 22: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004.5/sc.pdf

edit:

you've got to put either a light or a diode in there.

I just hooked it up to the 240sx alternator dash light. The wire is really easy to tap into.


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[ka-titties]

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/dimitri24/media/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg.html)

[Guilty1s]

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/dimitri24/media/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg.html)

An led set to run on 12v (single resistor) or a 12v light did the job for me when I was trouble shooting how fix the issue. You could even use it as a idiot light.

Just wire it just like the fsm says.
12v ignition switched (on)/fused on the positive side ... Negative side goes to pin 3 on the alternator.

Iirc, if the circuit isn't already there at start up, just putting it after didn't make it work.


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[Guilty1s]

Has anybody else that has completed this swap had an issue where the car will not start till the ecu has been on for about 20-30 seconds. I'm not sure if it is something I missed in wiring or if it takes a sec to realize that there is no BMC, nats, ac amp, or whatever it may be.

I could crank it for 20 seconds and then it will start or I could let it sit for 20-30 seconds then it will start right up. I forgot if giving it a little crank initially to get the crank sensor to register something made a difference but that is what I got into the habit of doing anyways. You could turn it off then immediately back on as long as you don't turn the ignition power fully off. I do have my ECM reminder 12v hooked up correctly.


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[ClaytonTNelson]

Im having a little trouble with the the throttle control relay and the ecm relay.
I see people are doing it in diiferent ways to wire them
Can someone give me some information on how to properly wire them in.
Thanks,
Clayton.

[Guilty1s]

My way... Lol

How are they wired now. Can you hear them click on?


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[ClaytonTNelson]

They are wired the way you showed in the write up. But I hear the throttle body power on when the ignition is off.

[ClaytonTNelson]

My way... Lol

How are they wired now. Can you hear them click on?


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Double checked my wiring again today. everything seems correct. but the the throttle body doesn't become powered till the ignition is closed, and then its only for about five seconds..

Im stumped... i even bought a spare ecu and flahed it to see if that was the issue. but same symptoms.

[ClaytonTNelson]

Do we have other shops that are capable of making a standalone wiring harness other than zfever? I'm trying to get this car done but this wiring keeps holding me back..
I just want to send a harness to someone and be done with it.

Any suggestions or referrals to someone that could handle this for me would be greatly appreciated.

[DEMo]

i dont have a 240 cluster anymore.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/dimitri24/media/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/0b24f2ca.jpg.html)

I'm using a Nexus 7 tablet with bluetooth OBD2 port.

Edit: Click for VQ S-chassis FB group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/252353284918213/members/)

[dkim1985]

is there a difference in the DE and HR tranny? will an 09 tranny fit an 04 engine?

[ka-titties]

you have to use the bell housing from the cd001 trans

[Guilty1s]

Yes^ but that job isn't a simple bolt on affair

http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=535906&styleid=69

350z HR trans are pretty much the same as 370z trans.


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[unwtdhero]

Tried to join the vq schassis group on facebook, cant find it.
Look me up and add me Logan Hartley

[dkim1985]

you have to use the bell housing from the cd001 trans

Yes^ but that job isn't a simple bolt on affair

370Z to 350Z Transmission Conversion - MY350Z.COM Forums (http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=535906&styleid=69)

350z HR trans are pretty much the same as 370z trans.


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what if its an 2009 DE trans?

[Guilty1s]

I think you mean cd009 which is the on for the transmission in 04-06 Zs. The cd001 was found in 03s but had temperamental 3rd gear syncros. Many where warrentied and replaced with the revised cd009


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[Guilty1s]

Wait... I read that wrong... There is no 09 de trans.. Atleast from a Z... Maybe from a G.. Idk


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[DEMo]

S-Chassis VQ Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/252353284918213/

[ClaytonTNelson]

I think i read somewhere that 350z test pipes will fit a VQ'ed s chassis. Can anyone confirm this?

[ClaytonTNelson]

I think i read somewhere that 350z test pipes will fit a VQ'ed s chassis. Can anyone confirm this?

350Z test pipe DON'T FIT. just in case anyone else was wondering.

They hang to low and if the were shortened to the correct height the flange that faces the rear of the car would hit the frame rails.

[ka-titties]

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/IMG_20131204_203214.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/dimitri24/media/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/IMG_20131204_203214.jpg.html)


Getting ready to build some headers. 2" primaries

[ka-titties]

Anyone figure out a way to run the fans off of the CAN system? The stock fan signal comes from the IPDM and gets the signal to turn on/off through CAN lines from the ECU. That'd be pretty slick if there was a way.

[Jissan]

I wired Mishimoto Fans through the stock wiring with this writeup.

Installed a Mishimoto fan shroud today... - MY350Z.COM Forums (http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/562544-installed-a-mishimoto-fan-shroud-today.html)

EDIT: Admittedly, I'm running stock VQ35HR 07 Z wiring. DOH!

[ka-titties]

I wired Mishimoto Fans through the stock wiring with this writeup.

Installed a Mishimoto fan shroud today... - MY350Z.COM Forums (http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/562544-installed-a-mishimoto-fan-shroud-today.html)

EDIT: Admittedly, I'm running stock VQ35HR 07 Z wiring. DOH!

yeah, you've got the IPDM installed i think. from reading your thread you have the whole wiring system installed in your s13 right?

[Jissan]

yeah, you've got the IPDM installed i think. from reading your thread you have the whole wiring system installed in your s13 right?

Yeah, my original wiring was so hacked up there was no making any sense of it. I decided to just gut the car and go with the complete untouched wiring for the Z. The IPDM is a pain though. It consolidates a lot of relays and such that should be accessible for maintenance, thus making it necessary to replace the whole unit should an enclosed circuit fail. This is often the case and there are recalls related to Nissan IPDMs. The techs don't like diagnosing them and will tell you that there is no way to check one, even though the FSM states that connecting the unit to a Consult III will give you a status report of individual issues...

[PoorMans180SX]

Do any of you guys have a jig for shortening the shifter bracket? My trans came with the linkage already shortened, so I have no idea how much to shorten the bracket. I know DEMo said he could do it, but I can't get a hold of him, and I'm not looking to spend $250 on a billet piece that no one will ever see.

[dil han]

Can anyone help me with the Dakota tach adapter? Please tell me how you have it wired and switches adjusted. I have 95 s14 with 2003 vq35 and no matter how I wire it the tach at most just bounces around a little between 0-200 rpms. Light is flashing on adapter which means its getting signal "in".

Any help is much appreciated!!!!!!!

[irax]

Where are you getting the source signal from ?

[dil han]

Where are you getting the source signal from ?

I've tried three sources and the tach still doesn't work but the light on the adapter will flash green meaning its getting signal. #1 coil white/blue power, #1 coil signal and #1 injector yellow/red I think. If my colors are off here that's because I don't remember as I gave up about a week ago. I know while I was under the dash I had all correct info when trying to wire it up.

Can anyone who has wired it up give me pins, colors and info?

Thanks guys

[dil han]

Btw this is the second VQ35 swap I've done and both times I converted the harness' myself and made them plug and play. The first was in my race car and I made a custom gauge cluster with autometer gauges and autometer tach adapter. It works off of the white/blue coil power wire. Well it did work for about 20 running hours and the last event I went to it took a shit. From what I read the autometer tachs take a shit and break. Looks like i'll be going Haltech and getting a racepac plug and play cluster....

[ka-titties]

PnP is definitely the way to go with the harness conversion. that's what i did too and it worked great.

[gosai_240sx]

Can anyone help me with the Dakota tach adapter? Please tell me how you have it wired and switches adjusted. I have 95 s14 with 2003 vq35 and no matter how I wire it the tach at most just bounces around a little between 0-200 rpms. Light is flashing on adapter which means its getting signal "in".


Im in the exact same page. My VQ has been running but still no Tach. I have the Dakota Digital ski-8, but that alone doesn't make the stock tach work. The needle bounces around 0-200rpm (The coil signal is to weak 0.1-0.4v)

An MSD adapter is needed to amplify that low volt in 12 volt signal but which box???
I recently picked up an MSD 8913 DIS TACH DRIVER for distributor less ignition systems.

Any thoughts or advise

[ka-titties]

Get a tach that works on CAN. done

[gosai_240sx]

Get a tach that works on CAN. done
Although you are right…what we are trying to do is get our stock tach to work.
I might have actually found what I am looking for!!!
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=825/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd825.htm
Plugs into the OBD2 port. Reads RPM signal from the ECU. Converts it to useable 4cyl gauge signal for the stock cluster.

Now to order it and actually verify it actually works.

[dkim1985]

Although you are right…what we are trying to do is get our stock tach to work.
I might have actually found what I am looking for!!!
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=825/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd825.htm
Plugs into the OBD2 port. Reads RPM signal from the ECU. Converts it to useable 4cyl gauge signal for the stock cluster.

Now to order it and actually verify it actually works.

$100? not bad. all you need to do is hardwire it directly to your cluster harness, right?

[gosai_240sx]

$100? not bad. all you need to do is hardwire it directly to your cluster harness, right?

Yea! Which is only one wire at the F3 plug or right behind the cluster itself. It says it works with CAN obd2 systems so I'm pretty convinced. Ordering this week.

[dkim1985]

Im looking to make my VQ build CA legal(BAR, smog, etc..). Apparently, you need to use OEM exhaust headers? not 100% on this but I know someone that BAR'd his LS and they said he had to use OEM headers to pass.

Wondering what issues and solutions are there to use OEM headers(DE or HR) in an S13.

[ka-titties]

the oem header will have interference with the steering column.

[Vetal]

Can Renault Vel Satis VQ35 be used for the swap? Is it any different from 350Z engine?

[dkim1985]

i've been hearing some people having problems with mckinney mounts..and some even saying ebay mounts worked out better for them. anyone else have experience/opinions?

[ka-titties]

I've got a buddy that got the ebay mounts and he says quality is shit.

[DEMo]

www.schassisvq.com or the s chassis vq facebook page. That is where you want to go for more info. It's an active community.

[sr23det]

looks like they stop making the stock vq ecu/tb wiring into s13s now. I forgot wither it was cb or ws that made them.

[5280VertDET]

looks like they stop making the stock vq ecu/tb wiring into s13s now. I forgot wither it was cb or ws that made them.

Found this crusiing the reddits:

My VQ swap harness allows you use an unmodified VQ engine harness. The engine harness doesn’t even need to be shipped to me.
Splicing into s-chassis wiring doesn’t provide enough current to safely and reliably power a VQ engine. This eliminates that problem by supplying its own main power source and functions 100% as it does in a Z/G chassis.
Each circuit is individually relayed and/or fused the same as a Z/G chassis. This means you can track down and replace a blown fuse and be able to see which circuit was blown instead of them being bundled all on 1 fuse.
This swap harness conversation uses the bare minimum butt connectors/soldering. Almost ever wire is instead fitted with brand new crimped connections using Genuine Delphi branded terminals and seals using quality brand name crumpets. For added plugs, genuine Deutsch connectors are used. Deutsch connectors are the standard in the motorsports world cause of they are known for their quality.
100% functional OBD2 port that allows for GST readers, tuning, and any diagnostic tools applicable. -completely customizable to a users specification. Extra circuits and relays can be used for whatever you need. We work with you to get exactly what you need and expect.
Uses ATM fuses and Micro Relays. Both are common and cheap parts that can be found in any GM vehicle in the past 30 years.
NATS removal still necessary though an Osiris Uprev tune. I have connections for that too.
Racecar version - Harness is completely isolated from any factory wiring. It’s pretty universal and can work in any chassis. - A main power switch/cutoff is required to toggle a 6ga wire (not included) that acts as your ignition switch. It essentially would work the same as Key on/key off. I can provide assistance with helping you set this up and provided power wires at cost. - Starter is required to be activated via toggle switch. We provide the spade terminal connections for hookup to activate the ground or hot signaled relay. - Fuel pump can be wired separately, though switch/relay in fuse box (output/signal leads provided, you finish wiring), or you can allow the VQ ECU to control. (Signal wire lead provided for your own relay/power to fuel pump) - Added circuits are also available including fans power or switched, fused, or relayed circuits

PNP version - Allows you to plug your VQ engine harness without splicing or modifying any of your factory wiring. - Function completely like factory. You turn ignition key on, it powers the engine. You turn the key to start, it starts the engine. - Everything plugs into existing plugs in the engine bay and under dash. No splicing or modifications required as long as provided the appropriate connectors - Requires donor original engine harness for pigtails to make plug and play. - Requires a fused and relayed 70+amp main power wire to fuse box If you purchase a PNP box, you must also purchase this power wire in which I provide for $90. - Added circuits are also available depending on chassis including fans power or switched, fused, or relayed circuits - Swap does not allow for any gauges in a factory cluster to be functional without added aftermarket modules for speedo/tach. Fuel gauge remains functional. - Options for G35 clusters available.

Each swap requires you supply the F1, F2, F3, F102, that plugs into the engine harness, but is found on the chassis side of the donor car. They are specific to chassis AND engine. (Z and G don’t cross. DE, HR, VHR don’t cross). Cores possible for purchase depending on availability. G35/DE are more accessible than others. OBD2 plugs are also required but available for $10 replacements

Prices start at - Racecar swap box -$360 - PNP swap box - $420 - PNP power supply (required if PNP swap box is used) - $90 - Racecar power supply (6ga cable with ring terminals) - $30 - Battery relocation kit - $110 - Core for Required 4 pigtails g35 vq35de harness $30 - Core for Required 4 pigtails z33, HR, or VHR harness $75. (Availability limited) - OBD2 plug - $10 - Shipping flatrate - $20 (buyer is responsible for shipping pigtails to me if necessary)

Due to every harness being custom specific to each person, these are built to order with generally a 1 week build time depending on on-hand inventory.

I’m working on getting a product website launched for this. Most of the units I’ve sold so far were on a VQ-S-chassis specific group on Facebook.

You can find me on Instagram @Guilty_garage Facebook page isn’t as active but give it a follow anyways @guilty garage.

Join the Facebook group “vq swap #schassisvq” for support and there are many people there that can vouch for my support and service.

[Guilty1s]

Found this crusiing the reddits:

That actually is me.

https://imgur.com/a/68W1RFt

https://i.imgur.com/XWJBKHQ.jpg

[TheRealSy90]

Wondering what issues and solutions are there to use OEM headers(DE or HR) in an S13.

the oem header will have interference with the steering column.

My VQ35HR swapped S13 has the factory HR headers..

[s14_zenki_seatown]

Hoping someone can help me out. I have a VQ swapped s13 and I'm having cooling issues. The coolant is not flowing into the radiator and the thermostat is not opening. Car has brand new koyo rad, brand new mishi low temp thermostat and brand new water pump. Is there something wrong with my hose routing? Could it be related to having no heater core? Instead of going in and out of the heater core I have one hose connecting those areas. Everything else is oem hose routing.

[derass]

Maybe the thermostat just isn't opening. Take it out, boil it in a pot of water, and see if it opens.

[s14_zenki_seatown]

Thermostat is brand new and tested to be working. Does it make sense that water wouldnt make it to the back of the t stat with no heater core?

[ka-titties]

is the engine overheating due to this? or is it not getting to temp?

if the hoses that are on the back side of the t-stat housing are not hooked up, the t-stat will take a long time to open.

[s14_zenki_seatown]

The engine is overheating but radiator stays cold the entire time

[ka-titties]

The engine is overheating but radiator stays cold the entire time

do you have the hose that goes to this location, coming from the big pipe on the passenger side?

https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/310572d1300145331-cooling-w-removed-heater-core-img_2700_small.jpg

[s14_zenki_seatown]

Yea that is hooked up like oem, goes to the oil cooler down to the filter then from the top of the filter to the pipe on the passenger side

[gills]

What you are describing is air in the system. Almost all VQ overheating issues are due to this. They are notoriously difficult to bleed.

The VQ in a Z/G (I believe) has a bleeder valve T'd in the hose before entering the heater core. Most people do away with that when they swap which makes them harder to bleed.

What I did on mine is T in a bleeder valve in that smaller hose that runs from the T-stat to the larger upper return hose on the passenger side. I put it all the way up top, i.e.-where air wants to escape from. You don't necessarily need that, but it helps relieve air sooner.

What you really should get if you don't have it is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01A2CQSU6&pd_rd_r=a249d1be-0304-11e9-9168-57fd22f7428f&pd_rd_w=hXIJk&pd_rd_wg=4JRR2&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=6YJH0RBE2GQEJFZNFMFR&psc=1&refRID=6YJH0RBE2GQEJFZNFMFR


And get the front of the car nicely elevated. And, be patient. You may have to cycle the engine a couple of times before the t-stat sees the temperature required to open.

[TheRealSy90]

My VQ35HR swap has a bleeder valve/petcock plumbed in that rear coolant line, its the highest point in the coolant system and sits right behind the intake manifold, mounted to it. Definitely needs one.

[s14_zenki_seatown]

I have a bleeder valve mounted already and have been trying to bleed with a no spill funnel with the front elevated. Wouldnt the coolant in the rad be getting warm without the therm opening? The coolant running thru the motor is hot but usually in the rad it's not even Luke warm... would removing the therm help? This is a track only car hence not having a heater core. Thanks for the input

[ka-titties]

I have a bleeder valve mounted already and have been trying to bleed with a no spill funnel with the front elevated. Wouldnt the coolant in the rad be getting warm without the therm opening? The coolant running thru the motor is hot but usually in the rad it's not even Luke warm... would removing the therm help? This is a track only car hence not having a heater core. Thanks for the input

Oh, its not a street car? Take the thermostat out and:
https://media.giphy.com/media/CiTLZWskt7Fu/200.gif