nothix
10-06-2012, 06:36 PM
I have a s13 blacktop SR20DET.
Engine mods:
-GT2871r .64
-550cc Deatschwerk
-Megan Exhaust Manifold
-Freddy Intake Manifold
-FMIC
-HKS SSQV BOV (recirculated)
-Enthalpy ECU Flash
-NGK BKR7E-11 Spark Plugs (gapped to .028)
My Problem:
The car has a slight pop/stutter when idling.
When revving the car the popping and stuttering increase.
More pops and stutters the higher the RPM.
So far I've tried:
-Replacing spark plugs: no change
-Regapping spark plugs from .03 to .028: no change
-Adding grounds to coilpack ground on the back of the head: no change
-Checked for vacuum leaks, found and fixed large leak on IACV: slight improvement
After fixing the IACV vacuum leak (stripped holes) my car would die on deceleration every single time, so I bumped up the idle to ~1100 rpm and it doesn't die as much. I disconnected the TPS and adjusted the IACV screw to set the idle.
Hear is a video of what the car currently sounds like:
SR20DET Stuttering Problem - YouTube (http://youtu.be/8nvQoo_d33o)
Today I purchased and infrared temperature sensor and checked the following:
Ice cold runner compared to others = no fuel / and or spark.
Really HOT runner compared = lean fuel faulty injector.
Cold coil pack, no spark = bad coil pack wiring
Hot coil pack, spark break up = bad coil pack.mentioned here: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/266301-sr20det-misfire.html#post2907070
I found no significant difference between the temperature of any of the coilpack tops or exhaust manifold tubes.
I also used the extension on the injector trick to see if i could hear any hiccups, and could not. All four sounded very consistent.
I checked the resistance between the coilpack leads and found most to be at .8 or .9 ohms (on 20ohm setting???).
I read that these should be 1000 ohms, so could mine be bad? All four?
Anything else I should check?
Thanks in advance
Engine mods:
-GT2871r .64
-550cc Deatschwerk
-Megan Exhaust Manifold
-Freddy Intake Manifold
-FMIC
-HKS SSQV BOV (recirculated)
-Enthalpy ECU Flash
-NGK BKR7E-11 Spark Plugs (gapped to .028)
My Problem:
The car has a slight pop/stutter when idling.
When revving the car the popping and stuttering increase.
More pops and stutters the higher the RPM.
So far I've tried:
-Replacing spark plugs: no change
-Regapping spark plugs from .03 to .028: no change
-Adding grounds to coilpack ground on the back of the head: no change
-Checked for vacuum leaks, found and fixed large leak on IACV: slight improvement
After fixing the IACV vacuum leak (stripped holes) my car would die on deceleration every single time, so I bumped up the idle to ~1100 rpm and it doesn't die as much. I disconnected the TPS and adjusted the IACV screw to set the idle.
Hear is a video of what the car currently sounds like:
SR20DET Stuttering Problem - YouTube (http://youtu.be/8nvQoo_d33o)
Today I purchased and infrared temperature sensor and checked the following:
Ice cold runner compared to others = no fuel / and or spark.
Really HOT runner compared = lean fuel faulty injector.
Cold coil pack, no spark = bad coil pack wiring
Hot coil pack, spark break up = bad coil pack.mentioned here: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/266301-sr20det-misfire.html#post2907070
I found no significant difference between the temperature of any of the coilpack tops or exhaust manifold tubes.
I also used the extension on the injector trick to see if i could hear any hiccups, and could not. All four sounded very consistent.
I checked the resistance between the coilpack leads and found most to be at .8 or .9 ohms (on 20ohm setting???).
I read that these should be 1000 ohms, so could mine be bad? All four?
Anything else I should check?
Thanks in advance