Chasebays vs Wilwood brakes

[s13 loverr]

Ok I am looking to eliminate my old bmc for a much cleaner look and I wanted advice/opinions on selection. I have searched around to come up with basic knowledge, but I want to make sure I buy the "better" product as both are a fair amount of money.

CHASEBAYS:

PROS:

-seems well thought out
-full kit for simplicity
-mounted in stock location
-dealt with before and they are very professional and have great customer service
-includes lines and proportioning valve


CONS:

-not widely used, so not much feedback
-long wait times
-hit and miss company (sometimes broken or pieces are missing)


WILWOOD:


PROS:

-has pivot bar to multiply pressure
-different sized master cylinders (although CB claims best size is for s-chassis is theirs)
-more people have used and have had better feedback
-track tested

CONS:

-expensive, on their site you must call for pricing ($$$)
-will end up needing other things (lines prop valve, and other misc. items)
-must custom mount unlike CB
-less room in interior and moves pedals closer to driver

websites for reference


chasebays (http://www.chasebays.com/product/universal-chase-bays/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator)

wilwood (http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalList.aspx)


Note: Don't make this a thread of "why do you want these in the first place?" or "its a waste of money" I would like to see actual conversation for the topic.

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Save your money and not even eliminate the booster.. Your going to end up using alot more force to stop and doubling your chances of hitting someone in front of you. Never understood why being unsafe is cool

[DJ-of-E]

If you want to clean up your engine bay, brake booster is the least of your worries. Bad setup can suck for daily and last thing you want is a worn out leg just to do hard braking (though easier for modulation).

[GripTerror]

tilton and ap racing is where its... im looking at the tilton 600 series (900 series is for ballers only).

Wilwood pedals flex... and no goody... better than stock sure but thats because stock sucks hairy balls. Tiltons are a good investment. Ap racing have some ultra baller ones too but are also insanely costly like the tilton 900 series and more

[Om1kron]

tilton and ap racing is where its... im looking at the tilton 600 series (900 series is for ballers only).

Wilwood pedals flex... and no goody... better than stock sure but thats because stock sucks hairy balls. Tiltons are a good investment. Ap racing have some ultra baller ones too but are also insanely costly like the tilton 900 series and more

Marshmallow aka Luke Pakula has a wilwood pedal box setup in his SRAE86, hit him up on facebook for the answers to your questions, mind you that's a track only car. The shit is not practical for street driving. So keep that in mind.

people will come in here and tell you yada, yada manual brakes were on old cars blah blah and there is a reason why our cars have boosters and shit.

You think the willwood setup is going to be an easier solution than chasebays you're wrong and vise versa. And as far as I am concerned I wouldn't put a chasebays product on my car unless you knew the fucking insides and outs of perfecting the defective shit that his company pumps out.

[AFSil80]

Honestly, I think the real question is what is the purpose of your car?

A Wilwood setup with adjustable pressure may be a bit overkill on a car that is primarily street driven, where you will want your booster. If you've ever done threshold braking from 100+ mph without a booster, believe me, you better have nerves of steel and a strong leg, or have a safe runoff.

A lot goes into braking that a bunch of people neglect to think about...stiff front suspension can affect proper braking, and the best brakes in the world do no good without proper tires to maintain the grip.

So think about the car's main purpose and go from there.

[P-Funk alot]

i thought chase bays master was a willwood setup.... im right it is or that stamp on it and the description on the page is lying.

[CamryOnBronze]

i thought chase bays master was a willwood setup.... im right it is or that stamp on it and the description on the page is lying.

You are correct- the Chase Bays kit uses a Wilwood reservoir. Mine leaked like a sieve, and I sold it. This was not the fault of Chase Bays, but the design of the Wilwood reservoir.

As someone who purchased and installed the complete CB kit, I would just leave your brake booster alone. All of the hassle and headache for something that is usually so simple is completely not worth it. If you do up the bay nicely, it won't matter that the booster is there.

[DJ-of-E]

If you do up the bay nicely, it won't matter that the booster is there.

Or mad painted hoses and shiney booster donut yo :snoop:

[GripTerror]

I lift weights and have mammoth legs :D Every pedal feels soft for me lol.

[s13 loverr]

Save your money and not even eliminate the booster.. Your going to end up using alot more force to stop and doubling your chances of hitting someone in front of you. Never understood why being unsafe is cool

I think it would be fine....as long as it is put together properly.

tilton and ap racing is where its... im looking at the tilton 600 series (900 series is for ballers only).

Wilwood pedals flex... and no goody... better than stock sure but thats because stock sucks hairy balls. Tiltons are a good investment. Ap racing have some ultra baller ones too but are also insanely costly like the tilton 900 series and more

Ok thanks for the info! I will definitely look into them as I don't like the idea of my brakes not being secure.

Honestly, I think the real question is what is the purpose of your car?

A Wilwood setup with adjustable pressure may be a bit overkill on a car that is primarily street driven, where you will want your booster. If you've ever done threshold braking from 100+ mph without a booster, believe me, you better have nerves of steel and a strong leg, or have a safe runoff.

A lot goes into braking that a bunch of people neglect to think about...stiff front suspension can affect proper braking, and the best brakes in the world do no good without proper tires to maintain the grip.

So think about the car's main purpose and go from there.

My car is fairly built for track. It has powered by max suspension, almost everything is spherical, a large t3 turbo, and soon to be a full cage. I take it on the streets for fun, but it is a weekend fun car/track car.

I have seen multiple track cars use floor mounted pedal setups, so I think while 100mph braking takes balls it is possible. I am okay with having to use leg strength to brake.

You are correct- the Chase Bays kit uses a Wilwood reservoir. Mine leaked like a sieve, and I sold it. This was not the fault of Chase Bays, but the design of the Wilwood reservoir.

As someone who purchased and installed the complete CB kit, I would just leave your brake booster alone. All of the hassle and headache for something that is usually so simple is completely not worth it. If you do up the bay nicely, it won't matter that the booster is there.

Actually the whole reason for me not going straight to CB was hearing yours leaked. I saw your thread and after hearing their brake booster eliminator didn't work I decided that I was not going to deal with a hit and miss company. I have dealt with them before and they are great, but I don't want to trust my brakes with a possibly faulty product.

I have bought their powersteering kit along with their coolant overflow bottle and they forgot to send the overflow bottle. I contacted them and they were quick to send a new one, but the cap does not fit well and seems to not seal.

I do not want to retain the stock bmc, it drives me insane. I am a complete perfectionist and the stock bmc is just plain ugly. So, I would rather not; even if it is a hassle at first. I will just have to work around it and have a nice clean engine bay.

[AFSil80]

I second the notion for Tilton, BTW. And AP also makes a very solid product, I've been more than pleased with my front brake kit from AP.

[JFoxx]

there is one fatal flaw with this thread..... you say its a track car, but your worried about how your brake booster affects the looks of your engine bay....

performance>looks

[Chase Bays]

The Brake Booster Eliminator seems to receive a lot of common misconceptions. The biggest one being that you will have the braking feel of an old Ford truck with manual brakes, and that simply isn't the case. We've sold hundreds of these, and actually have them on a few of our personal vehicles (which two of them are S13s). The pedal feel is slightly stiffer than a stock pedal, but it isn't something that is going to break your leg. And with our setup, this eliminates you having to custom fab a plate to mount it with, or even source hardware. Not to mention we offer brake line kits to further accent your engine bay. The 7/8" Master Cylinder will be plenty for your chassis, regardless of your brake setup. Some of the issues that people have with saying the pedal is too stiff or complaints about the BBE in general sometimes come from not using a proportioning valve, I've seen that one quite a few times also. If you have any questions or concerns about the kit, I would be more than happy to answer them for you.

[s13 loverr]

there is one fatal flaw with this thread..... you say its a track car, but your worried about how your brake booster affects the looks of your engine bay....

performance>looks

See this is why racing has the reputation that it does. Just because a car is a race car does NOT mean it can't be nice. I am getting sick of seeing these shit cars with cracked bumpers, mismatched paint, shitty engine bays, and whatever else just because its a "race car doood"

The Brake Booster Eliminator seems to receive a lot of common misconceptions. The biggest one being that you will have the braking feel of an old Ford truck with manual brakes, and that simply isn't the case. We've sold hundreds of these, and actually have them on a few of our personal vehicles (which two of them are S13s). The pedal feel is slightly stiffer than a stock pedal, but it isn't something that is going to break your leg. And with our setup, this eliminates you having to custom fab a plate to mount it with, or even source hardware. Not to mention we offer brake line kits to further accent your engine bay. The 7/8" Master Cylinder will be plenty for your chassis, regardless of your brake setup. Some of the issues that people have with saying the pedal is too stiff or complaints about the BBE in general sometimes come from not using a proportioning valve, I've seen that one quite a few times also. If you have any questions or concerns about the kit, I would be more than happy to answer them for you.

Great! I want to start off by saying that I like the idea of your kit and your general products. However, I feel like after I bought the kit I would be waiting ridiculous amounts of time before receiving it with possibly missing/broken parts. I love your company and the things it puts out, but I have also had/seen bad experiences. For example when I bought a few parts from your company they forgot to send my overflow bottle. You guys were quick to send a new one, but on this one the cap bounces up and down as if it is too small for the bottle. This is even with the huge rubber ring. I haven't tried it with a running car yet, but it doesn't seem like it will keep anything air tight.

Will the 7/8 cylinder be okay for my z33 brakes up front? I am going to be running z33s up front and z32s in back with separate calipers for my hydro ebrake.

Camryonbronze had issues with his master cylinder; was that a fault of your company, wilwood, or installation?

What is the wait time on the BBE? I know your company was facing issues with suppliers and a big thing for me was that I don't want to wait months for the BBE. Thanks!

On a side note I love your s13 with your brake booster eliminator and vh (vq? I don't remember) in any event it looks amazing and I want all your products to make my car look as clean as that.

EDIT: If I do buy your BBE I will write a full review on it as well.

[AFSil80]

See this is why racing has the reputation that it does. Just because a car is a race car does NOT mean it can't be nice. I am getting sick of seeing these shit cars with cracked bumpers, mismatched paint, shitty engine bays, and whatever else just because its a "race car doood

I think what he was implying was to ensure that it's a quality performance part, not just something that cleans up the engine bay.

[JFoxx]

^^^
thank you very much for clarifying....

[BOROSUN]

dont you need to install a brake pressure gauge for adjusting proportioning valve?
seems alot more work and parts to buy.

[CamryOnBronze]

Second question: Camryonbronze had issues with his master cylinder; was that a fault of your company, wilwood, or installation?

I would not doubt if the leaks I has from the -AN fittings were due to installation error on my part, but the reservoir and clamp leaking for sure seemed to be a design flaw with the Wilwood reservoir. I ensured that the included hose clamp was installed tightly and that the rubber o-ring was in place, but it still continued to leak each time the brakes were applied. I haven't heard of others having issues though, so who knows... not sure what I could have goofed in that department since the reservoir came pre-installed.

The other lines leaking could have been my error for sure though. I was just so bummed about not being able to finish the car that weekend and brake fluid pouring all over my freshly painted bay that I decided to move on. Chase and Logan have been super cool to me and helped me out a lot with their products, so I never want to be one to bash their stuff. All of the other CB products on my car have worked out without any issues- I just decided to move back to the stock booster in the brake department.

[Matej]

Most professional S-chassis race and drift cars still use the OEM booster setup. I researched getting rid of the booster, only to arrive at the conclusion that it is best to keep it, unless you are building a show car, or have the resources to fabricate some full-blown race car pedal setup.

If you want it to look cleaner, just flip the booster upside down and run the hose behind the firewall.

You can also get a brake master cylinder from any 90's Nissan truck or SUV, which is the same as the S-chassis one, but has the ports on the other side, thus being convenient for tucking the lines. Plus they come in 7/8", 15/16", and 1", so you can pick one to suit your braking needs. (Same BMC's as JDM Z32/R32)

[240dream]

My friend ran one for a little and leaked. Switched back to stock. Ill try to find his thread for more info

[240dream]

Facebook (http://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/photo.php?fbid=762148222137&id=44601749&set=a.503296083897.2016992.44601749&__user=100000017381536)

[s13 loverr]

I think what he was implying was to ensure that it's a quality performance part, not just something that cleans up the engine bay.

^^^
thank you very much for clarifying....

Sorry; I misinterpreted. That is part of what I am trying for here, to see if either can be a quality performance piece, while cleaning up my engine bay.

I would not doubt if the leaks I has from the -AN fittings were due to installation error on my part, but the reservoir and clamp leaking for sure seemed to be a design flaw with the Wilwood reservoir. I ensured that the included hose clamp was installed tightly and that the rubber o-ring was in place, but it still continued to leak each time the brakes were applied. I haven't heard of others having issues though, so who knows... not sure what I could have goofed in that department since the reservoir came pre-installed.

The other lines leaking could have been my error for sure though. I was just so bummed about not being able to finish the car that weekend and brake fluid pouring all over my freshly painted bay that I decided to move on. Chase and Logan have been super cool to me and helped me out a lot with their products, so I never want to be one to bash their stuff. All of the other CB products on my car have worked out without any issues- I just decided to move back to the stock booster in the brake department.

Thanks for the post! The whole reason I started this thread was because I saw yours leaked so much.

Most professional S-chassis race and drift cars still use the OEM booster setup. I researched getting rid of the booster, only to arrive at the conclusion that it is best to keep it, unless you are building a show car, or have the resources to fabricate some full-blown race car pedal setup.

If you want it to look cleaner, just flip the booster upside down and run the hose behind the firewall.

You can also get a brake master cylinder from any 90's Nissan truck or SUV, which is the same as the S-chassis one, but has the ports on the other side, thus being convenient for tucking the lines. Plus they come in 7/8", 15/16", and 1", so you can pick one to suit your braking needs. (Same BMC's as JDM Z32/R32)

I will look into this as the biggest thing for me are the lines hanging everywhere.

Facebook (http://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/photo.php?fbid=762148222137&id=44601749&set=a.503296083897.2016992.44601749&__user=100000017381536)

I can't get the facebook link to work.