i gave up on sr20 redtop plz help (paranormal behavior)

[ke70 sr20det]

hello to all. Recently my sr20 redtop was swapped in the ke70, and the car was being driven daily with no problems, it was totally stock with s15 t28 ,fmic + pipes, and 3inch catback and was running 9 to 11 psi.

Suddenly the car has started missing under 4000rpm, then on WOT it goes alive. The day it happened, I drove home by constantly staying at 5-6k rpm. Took it to mechanics to check all wiring sensors and stuff. I first detected the MAF but that checks out. Its something else.

So far the engine has been checked through some parts listed below

1.maf - ok
2.cas - ok
3.knock sensor - ok
4.tps - ok
5.iavc - ok
6.compression test 1-150,2-150,3-148,4-148 perfect
7.fueling 40 to 48 psi with 255 pump fuel is ok
8.plugs pig rich
9.coils ok
10.injectors ok

it has been two months now car starts with big bangs from the catback. Also, while checking all the stuff, car came to life twice, 1 tyme for 2 hours and other time max 5 mins and then went into drama. Please guys help me i really love my sr20, dont want this engine to be taken out of the car. Plus no special tuners in my country to inspect nissan, mostly ppl run honda or toyota ..video is posted to check what kind of thing this car is doing

Sr20det problem - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6V51pmymJM)

feedback is appreciated

[godsmack]

possibly bad coolant sensor. there's 2 of them. the one to the computer might be bad. if it's bad then you'll be running rich on the lower rpm's. are all plugs soaked or just 1 or 2?

[ke70 sr20det]

possibly bad coolant sensor. there's 2 of them. the one to the computer might be bad. if it's bad then you'll be running rich on the lower rpm's. are all plugs soaked or just 1 or 2?

all of them i have a spare engine with all sensors and stuff except maf and ecu

i have ordered aem ems 2 it will be here in two weeks it was ordered in dec but its coming through shipping will it throw ecu codes like g35 and 350z ecus

[ultimateirving]

How do you know knock sensor isgood? try bypassing it, there are a lot of write ups, and whats interesting is the knock sensor retards timing anything 4000 rpm and below. but is useless above that

[cotbu]

Who tuning it? Cause this shit right here.... is some whack diagnostic shit!
Y6V51pmymJM

[ke70 sr20det]

this was the wiring guy checking up we dont have proper garages here and no one put nissans because they are very hectic for them..... plz seriously give good info otherwise this car will go to junk

i really love this car i dont want this thing to be ruined like this we tried changing knock sensor from other sr20 redtop same issues ecu showed code 55

[cotbu]

charity starts at home! There's a lot of broke ass 240's in the USA! So I'll give you this. Tell the wiring guy to leave the car alone!

Set the tps to .45v, set timing to 15*, set fpr to 43.5psi w/o vacuum, set idle to 850rpm
I heard a vacuum leak, but it got masked by the current rpm. get a multimeter monitor voltage from the ecu coolant temp sensor, if it starts fluctuating at operating temp (80*c) then there's a problem with it, Same multimeter monitor the signal from the mafs, should be above .700v at idle definitely (if not replace it) but it is consider good mafs with 1.00v at idle. Again Boost leak test.

[ke70 sr20det]

charity starts at home! There's a lot of broke ass 240's in the USA! So I'll give you this. Tell the wiring guy to leave the car alone!

Set the tps to .45v, set timing to 15*, set fpr to 43.5psi w/o vacuum, set idle to 850rpm
I heard a vacuum leak, but it got masked by the current rpm. get a multimeter monitor voltage from the ecu coolant temp sensor, if it starts fluctuating at operating temp (80*c) then there's a problem with it, Same multimeter monitor the signal from the mafs, should be above .700v at idle definitely (if not replace it) but it is consider good mafs with 1.00v at idle. Again Boost leak test.

Okay, will check all of these asap and get back to you. Thanks a lot! :)

[steve shadows]

First of all 40-48 psi at idle? That is all screwy if that's the case.

Next. Those nismo FPRs in my experience always break they are crap.

Next. Get new plugs immediately if they are pig rich. Also I would get a few extra sets of plugs heat range 6 ngk so you don't blow too much money as well as some new or extra sets of o-rings for the fuel injectors. I would swap and inspect just to be safe on those too.

You can't diagnose the car if you're still running the rich or toasted plugs. They need to be swapped out immediately and re gaped to .030 or .028 standard.

It sounds like the crazy fuel pressure because of a shotty and inconsistent fuel pressure regulator went haywire and has been dumping fuel in fouling spark plugs. I would start there first. You're better off with a stock oem fuel pressure regulator - replacement just to be sure then go from there...

[codyace]

I'm with the above advice in regard to a new set of plugs in that thing...variable fuel pressure sounds like an issue to me for sure, verify solid vacuum to it as well. With your mechanic/or you cranking that FPR around it's hard to say what it's really at, but it can't be right.



...and I dunno Steve...Nismo FPR as a common failure? You're on a small boat with that one...especially with that being (easily) the most common cross platform DET item out there.

[idahotuner]

Oring on injectors leaking due to fuel pressure being to high should be set at 35-37. And when you get air flow it gets enough air and doesn't add more fuel be Cause its leaking enough to make up for it. Pressure check all intercooler piping and set every sensor to stock settings.

[idahotuner]

Or just wore out o rings and fuel presure can't be mantaned solid when its leaking.

[steve shadows]

I'm with the above advice in regard to a new set of plugs in that thing...variable fuel pressure sounds like an issue to me for sure, verify solid vacuum to it as well. With your mechanic/or you cranking that FPR around it's hard to say what it's really at, but it can't be right.



...and I dunno Steve...Nismo FPR as a common failure? You're on a small boat with that one...especially with that being (easily) the most common cross platform DET item out there.

They break easily because people always overtorque...not really a factory design flaw per say but I always find cars coming into shop or in the past or even on the street with the top diaphragm just spinning around and around...

So if you have one on your car make sure you bought it from NISMO or a distributor new and that you adjusted it yourself making sure to keep the top from breaking by not securing it on both nuts...make sense Cody?

Yeah I would go with Aeromotive if I had to pick honestly...

Stock Nissan one in good shape are great all the way up to 450whp all day...

If it's oem and it aint broke and it works don't fix it imo:naughtyd: